2010 Marzocchi 888 Evo tuning thread
- Thread starter Kanye West
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those green stanchions aint so bad on a all green bike
Thanks for the info, Guys. Just pulled the trigger on the Ti version @ $1200. US
more 2011 and 2012 goodness.
new black TiNi stanchions for this winter for me!
http://www.vitalmtb.com/videos/features/2011-Marzocchi-888-Fork-Lineup,4048/sspomer,2
new black TiNi stanchions for this winter for me!
http://www.vitalmtb.com/videos/features/2011-Marzocchi-888-Fork-Lineup,4048/sspomer,2
so where's the news here?
I have a 10' EVO and the lower compression knob on the bottom of the left leg seems to be leaking oil, it's not a huge amount but it's damp after each ride. How do I fix this or what is the issue?? I tried to tighten the nut underneath the knob but it just seems to spin when a decent amount of force is applied.
That is realy sick and i hear Ronnie mentioned it will not be an everyones fork any more but your'e own personal fork
.Great that they will building the fork specific for each rider so they are not going to be the same.
theyve always done a "works" tune on forks. they just seem to be pushing it more nowThat is realy sick and i hear Ronnie mentioned it will not be an everyones fork any more but your'e own personal fork
Have someone push down really hard on the handlebar when you tighten the nut. This will help the rod get some purchase on the lowers. The Marz guys use an air tool on that nut so try that if one's available.
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is the ano smoother than the nickle plating...I ve heard it mentioned a few times here?
I've jumped on about 10 or so Nickel coated and anno Al stanchions from 2008 to 2010 888's. With rare exception the anno's are smoother. Mine is a nickel plated and the next one I get will probably be an anno one.
thanks gemini.....ive been leaning toward the ano if the nickel is a little sticky
anyone have a first production run Marzo 2010 RC3 EVO that had it's cartridge RMAd? Marzo (ITA) says it had some sorta problem with the original cartridge that needs to be replaced.
Mine's on its way, but curious to know if there are any performance differences?
Mine's on its way, but curious to know if there are any performance differences?
What's new with the 2011s over the 2010s?
Sorry if this has been covered.
Also, what's the difference with the RCVs and the EVOs for 2011? I'm gutting them and slappin my Avy cart in em, so any other difference apart from damping?
Sorry if this has been covered.
Also, what's the difference with the RCVs and the EVOs for 2011? I'm gutting them and slappin my Avy cart in em, so any other difference apart from damping?
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No changes between '10 and '11.
I was gonna say the EVO and RCV only differ in their left leg internals, but I'm wondering what that gold knob is at the bottom of the RCV's right leg. Maybe a compression adjuster. Does the RCV use a damper in the right leg also? Looks like you might want to stick with the EVO.
it's the compression adjuster
http://www.marzocchi.com/Template/Popup/popupDetailForksFeatures.asp?LN=UK&idC=1551&IdFolder=140&IdOggetto=58139
im assuming theres a damper in the right leg since it takes 380ml of oil in it and has the compression knob over there too
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I love my zoke 888 2010 and my rocco rear shock. Both zokes work in harmony. My biggest gripe is during long sustained rocky decents. The suspension works great initially but seems to pack up or build up pressure after a while. This results in what seems to be compression spikes. I'm not sure if the suspension over heats but I'd like know how to combat this problem. I really wish there was some sort of pressure release valve or something? Would switching to a 5wt oil help?
Are you saying there was a recall on the first production run world cups?
Where I run into problems is on the 6 to 10 mile non stop rocky downhills. Regular downhills with the occasional rock garden etc. don't phase the fork at all.
I guess pressure build up is a problem with all types of suspension. Even many moto forks have some sort of pressure release valve. I remember the Marzocchi shiver had a screw on top of each leg to allow pressure release. From what I hear, Marzocchi is bringing back the shiver for 2012. I just hope they include the pressure release screws again.
I guess pressure build up is a problem with all types of suspension. Even many moto forks have some sort of pressure release valve. I remember the Marzocchi shiver had a screw on top of each leg to allow pressure release. From what I hear, Marzocchi is bringing back the shiver for 2012. I just hope they include the pressure release screws again.
Is it possible, that the air in the airchamber is heating up at some point and makes the fork more progressiv?!
Another question: I ride a 2010 evo and am pretty happy with it, but the fork is so progressiv, that I barely can use the last 2cm of travel. Since i'm not an expert in fork technology, is there only too much oil in the leg, or is there something else wrong with my 888?
Oh, and the air chamber is fully open and the sag is right.
Other than that this fork is pure butter
Another question: I ride a 2010 evo and am pretty happy with it, but the fork is so progressiv, that I barely can use the last 2cm of travel. Since i'm not an expert in fork technology, is there only too much oil in the leg, or is there something else wrong with my 888?
Oh, and the air chamber is fully open and the sag is right.
Other than that this fork is pure butter
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To make the fork more linear you need to increase the air volume, and there's 3 ways to do this:
1. Back off RC3 adjuster (you already did this).
2. Run the minimum amount of oil in both legs. I can't remember these so ask Marz.
3. The RC3 knob moves a piston (which forms the ceiling of the damper chamber) up and down. If you remove the o-ring from this piston you increase the air volume by the volume above the piston. This may make the fork too easy to bottom and may require going back up in oil volume.
I have the pre-EVO RC3 damper and I run the recommended amount of oil in both legs with no o-ring on the RC3 (I also run a modified ATA spring). I get the amount of sag I want and full travel only on the hardest hits. I frequently get 185mm travel.
Useful info, thanks
So what is the actual meaning of that o-ring if it is possible to ride whitout it?
The o-ring forms a seal around the piston. This lets the piston height determine the air volume above the oil and therefor the progressiveness of the fork. Removing the o-ring allows air to pass by the piston. This makes the RC3 adjuster do nothing and increases the air volume by quite a bit (the amount of air above the piston. Removing the RC3 knob and piston would do the same thing. Since I like this setting I may try to do this to "clean up" the fork and drop a little weight. Of course this is harder, may be permanent, and requires sealing the hole in the top cap.
Removing the o-ring and re-installing it takes only a minute and is an easy way to experiment with air volume if the RC3 adjustment range seems too small.
I wouldn't go removing that o-ring, if the fork is set up right there should be heaps of air volume in there. It also means there is only one small o-ring at the top sealing the fork and could be prone to leaking eventually.
FIRST I would make sure the spring is right and you are getting 1/3 sag and then if you still can't get full travel with the adjusters backed all the way off, then you need to get someone to tweak the compression shim stack as the stock valving is quite firm and has a lot of high-speed compression damping. Taking the smallest (16mm OD) shim out and replacing it with a 11x.2mm spacer would be an easy place to start and reduce the HSC quite a bit.
There are heaps of possibilities as far as tuning goes with your fork, you can always send it in to Marzocchi telling them what you want and they will have a fewd ifferent valving set-ups which will make a big difference
FIRST I would make sure the spring is right and you are getting 1/3 sag and then if you still can't get full travel with the adjusters backed all the way off, then you need to get someone to tweak the compression shim stack as the stock valving is quite firm and has a lot of high-speed compression damping. Taking the smallest (16mm OD) shim out and replacing it with a 11x.2mm spacer would be an easy place to start and reduce the HSC quite a bit.
There are heaps of possibilities as far as tuning goes with your fork, you can always send it in to Marzocchi telling them what you want and they will have a fewd ifferent valving set-ups which will make a big difference
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Let's talk about the VA control on the 2010 888 EVO. When I talk to the tech at zoke, he claims the VA is for dive control, however, the label and website claim it's for progression. When I apply a few clicks of VA, I seem to lose small chatter sensitivity and a general stiffining of the entire stroke. I was wishing this would affect only the last part of the travel like a PAR chamber or an end stroke compression clicker but it seems to affect the entire stroke. Does anyone use the VA? If so, how much do you weigh and how many clicks do you use?
Thanks all, i will control the amount of oil in the fork, because the fork is still progressiv,when the coil is out of the fork. I need alot of weight to compress the fork totally. I also tried to tweak the amount of air in the air chamber (rebuilt it with the fork compressed), but this hasn't had the effect i was wishing for.
When i change the oil on the damperside, do i have to think on something special.
Thanks everyone for posting!
When i change the oil on the damperside, do i have to think on something special.
Thanks everyone for posting!
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no idea about world cups, can only speak for 1st prod run EVO RC3s as that's what Marzo ITA told me. Funny thing actually:i contacted them about a small leak around the compression nut (turned out to be some o-rings that were a bit squashed, probably due to overtightening during assembly), and the support guy said straight off the bat when he saw my fork was a 1st production run fork, that i needed a new cartridge.
I didnt even know there was a problem with the cartridges, with nothing on the marzo website stating product recalls, or anything to even remotely suggested I needed a new cartridge.
I'm still awaiting clarification from Marzo (ITA) on exactly what the problem is a new cartridge will address.
that's pretty interesting, as I've been wondering how to control the dive on my 888 EVO. I'm currently sitting on 2 clicks off max compression, but considering just how few adjustment clicks there are, it's surprising how each click does not produce a tangible effect.
I'm on the verge of mucking around with the shim stack (after I fit and test run the new cartridge) to get more compression adjustment sensitivity, unless someone says the shim stack is not the way to go.
Preload would only really stop dive in the initial stroke. A heavier spring would hold the fork up more, but may be too heavy for full travel. Preload is overcome, and surpassed once the spring is into some travel(more than the preload had taken up)making preload virtually negligible for holding the fork up in ride height.
Pre load affects the "static" ride height, and thats it. Once you hit the brakes or push the front end in to a berm its the spring rate and low speed compression damping that controls how much dive you get. I would dial up the compression until the fork isn't diving then if it becomes too harsh from there, you can tweak the shim stack to remove some high speed compression without compromising the low speed too much.
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You can also replace the 7.5wt oil with 10 wt, or a mix of 7.5 and 10wt. That's how we tuned 888s back in '05. Of course this will slow the high speed compression and rebound as well.
I can't recall, but isn't Ms 7.5wt the same as 10wt?