yeah but they're still just enduro stories
This is what's right with The Industry®
- Thread starter Jm_
- Start date
I mean kinda
there's definitely an error being made in continuing to put shimano brakes on a mountainbike
Try swapping the levers for RS or RSC. Code R calipers aren't much different but lever feel without the swing link (S) is what makes the R feel like you need to over queeze the lever for enough power.
Fade is caused by overheating. And not something i've experienced on any of my own Codes (or even old Guide RS). If braking less. especially if you're dragging 'em. is not an option. Larger diameter rotors would be an obvious solution.
Or helpful tips like "yeah, that's challenging" and "we recommend you remove your pads when you aren't riding your bike".
8'' Rotors and that happened on fairly mellow trails I know well so not really dragging. Will do a full service and maybe it helps but I was surprised to see this as I never had that problem with the saints.
Will think about R's but probably will just change for something where I like the lever feel more. I never got along with any Sram/avid breaks (well with the exception of avid 2.0 v-brakes 20+ years ago on my xc bike). I will wait for my January bonus and see if the early year discounts still hold for new brakes. I've seen Hope v4s quite cheap
@toodles I once had to rethread my 2004 DH frame before a race because I managed to rip of my derail 2 times during training before the race (the good old days of grip shift causing you to shift on hard landings and ripping off your derail...)
I rode gripshift for longer than most because the derailuers didn't rattle as much. I've cased and over shot shit hard enough to break my ankles and I never once that happen
I used the shorty ones
Wait what? gripshift stabilized derails? It was a long time ago so I might have forgotten.I rode gripshift for longer than most because the derailuers didn't rattle as much. I've cased and over shot shit hard enough to break my ankles and I never once that happen
As for that happening - at that time I was 55kg at 179cm so I probably was a bit less stable than you on landings given I had the muscular definition of an ozempic addict.
had nothing to do with the gripshift part, scram just made detraileurs that didn't rotate as easily around the hanger mount so rattled less
to use them, you had to use gripshift
Ah yes now I remember. It was just codded in my brain as "Shimano derails rattled like shit during those times" and not "sram derails rattled less". I remember the sound of shimano equipped bikes then. Could not listen to them as it sounded like they were falling appart (well some kinda were). Didn't some people use road mechs from shimano because some of them had harder springs causing them to be a bit quieter? Or was it just about the weight?
shorter cage road derailuers
'what's that sound in the woods? Ah yes, an M1 with a shimano derailuer. We should be able to see it in two minutes'
Add to that pedals that were loose on the axles for extra noise. And of course every bearing was lose plus some crazy people were using square axle shit like truvativ ruktion cranks. The good old days where your bike actively disassembled itself during riding.
I used them. but for neither of those reasons. They were just far far cheaper for the same quality/teir. Like HALF the cost. They did shift slightly better on close ratio cassettes as that's what cassette range they were designed to shift on. (and why Zee/Saint still shifts better than fancy pants T-type or Microspline)
The internal paralleogram return spring was stiffer on many road mechs than the springs used in mtb mechs designed to be used with Shimano light action mtb shifters but that did nothing at all to reduce noise on an mtb, just made for crisper shifts from larger to smaller sprockets. Quietening them down was a fairly simple task. ie. wrap the knuckle in a slither of rubber using an appropriately placed ziptie which would also stop it being able to rotate round far enough to hit the chainstay. (Some folk just overwrapped their chainstay where it hit) Obviously none of these hacks did anything to stop excessive chain slap. And ANY noise was amplified massively through the monocoque alu M1 frames. As alluded to above they must have been the noisiest mtb frames ever made. We used to refer to them as cowbells.
I made a makeshift Hall Lock with a plastic shock spacer for my X0 11 speed derailleur. Best hack ever.
by the time 11sp came around they'd all kind of fixed themselves with clutches for most people and didn't have the super loose hangar mounts any more IMO
Not saying you didn't improve anything because you wouldn't be mentioning it otherwise....
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Nope. This fixes the position of the derailleur with respect to the hanger/frame. Just like the old 8-9 speed original SRAM ones. It brutally improves the shifting performance and reduces chain slap to a minimum.
Stolen from Vital:
www.vitalmtb.com
Homemade "Hall lock" for Sram & Shimano
A brilliant solution on a homemade "Hall Lock" for Sram and Shiamno derailleurs from my buddy Collin Timmermans! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IChC4h8WDkA
I looked it up again and edited my post right when you were typing that
does look like a good way to fix chainslap without adding friction to suspension like clutches do
Do you also have fairly small hands? or were you running longer grips next to the shifters? I found with the short gripshift grips installed I'd also sometimes twist a gripshifter unintentionally in the air or while bunnyhopping (but never when landing) so didn't really like them for the same reason as Norbar. Plus those things were somewhere between utterly fuckin useless and pretty atrocious to use in the wetI've cased and over shot shit hard enough to break my ankles and I never once that happen
I used the shorty ones
pervert
no, Im just really good
I do ride with my hands out at the ends of the bars though, ouside of palm kind of hanging off a little.
Id roll my hand inboard a little to shift, most of my grip is always pinky to middle finger so pretty much never am I death gripping the inside. If I saw trouble coming my index finger would be over a brake lever, not the shifter
Id also cut full sized lockon grips because the shorty grips were too short
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I've used grip shift on my trail bikes forever due to destroying my thumb in a Whizzler crash. Never with the included grips, always with a cut down lockon Oury.d also cut full sized lockon grips because the shorty grips were too short
DH bike I still have a trigger because I'm not shifting as often and my thumb can cope.
yeah. me too.
Yeah my index finger was pretty much always covering the brake lever aswell so it was the inner edge of my thumb and palm that'd cause the occasional unintentional shift. and only really when throttling the bars to lift or level out the bike. TBF this was also back in the days of narrower bars so that and the short gripshift grips probably didn't leave a lot of room for error. I'm sure I'd have tuned into rarely ever doing it but the (complete) DH bike I had with them was stolen just a few months after I'd gotten it and I saw no reason to persevere with 'em so swapped back to trigger shifters for every bike from then on anyway.
Ah I remember the rubber and zipties tricks. Also for some weird reason many peoples didn't use any chainstay protection then for extra noise.
There were a number of years during with I ran a gripshifter on the left, so there was some ability to trim my front derailleur, with triggers on the right. Don't recall ever shifting unintentionally but yeah, I also ride at the end of the bars. A lot of long-timers do that, but I see it less with the kids these days. I think it's because our bars were too narrow BITD and that's what we got used to.
Yeah I was also suprised that happened but it was the only possible explanation for 1 season when I was basically keeping Sram afloat just with my personal orders.
gained 5mm total length in the 210mm version. weight reduction especially in the wider versions is quite substantial though
I'm skeptical about not needing to put air into the cartridge. What a great idea, why is that not done on basically every other post that exists?
The post itself looks pretty much the same at first glance. The top seat post clamp has been hollowed for some grams, obviously.
For the 210mm post in 30.9, the weight savings is only 55 grams. That puts it at over $1 per gram saved.
It'd be a no brainer if they kept it the same cost as the v2 post.
The post itself looks pretty much the same at first glance. The top seat post clamp has been hollowed for some grams, obviously.
For the 210mm post in 30.9, the weight savings is only 55 grams. That puts it at over $1 per gram saved.
It'd be a no brainer if they kept it the same cost as the v2 post.
It's always been an option on Trans X factory posts.
I don't really see anything "fancy" about this ever so slightly different V whatever one up post.
Fuck electrics or shaving 10g here and there and make a post with a two position anomaly style clamp. At a reasonable price.
Better bushing & seal combined with slight weight reduction is reason enough for me to be excited. It helps that I'll be in the market for a new 240mm post when the new Ransom drops in a month.
I just asked Hayes/Manitou if the standard Mastodon could be converted to the extended version and if parts were needed to do so. They literally replied to me within 3 minutes with the answer and the link to the exact page in the tech manual to do so (attached to the email). I wasn't sure if I would be getting one, but this kind of customer service is what could motivate me to.
they've got a new v2 rebuild kit that uses the (purportedly improved) skf v3 seals. may have to give that a go; current seal is indeed shit.
I kind of want a shorter dropper, as mine is currently inserted as far as it can go. It'd be nice to be able to squeak it a tiny bit lower, for those days on super steep stuff. Its not really a big deal while riding, but if you stop on a steep section or bail, it can be a little goofy getting back on the bike with a high seat.
One of the downsides of these Banshee's is their short seat insertion depth.
This is my bike with a 210mm OneUp, shimmed down to 190mm. My only concern is if I drop to a 180mm post, the seat post collar will be even higher than it already is. Or am I an idiot and wrong? I don't know if I have long legs or what, but my seat has always been giraffe neck like.
One of the downsides of these Banshee's is their short seat insertion depth.
This is my bike with a 210mm OneUp, shimmed down to 190mm. My only concern is if I drop to a 180mm post, the seat post collar will be even higher than it already is. Or am I an idiot and wrong? I don't know if I have long legs or what, but my seat has always been giraffe neck like.
i see yours and raise you mine, 210mm not shimmed down, because long 92cm inseam @ 184cm height with 25mm of spacers and 35mm riser bar. would just fit in right at the lowest possible positionOne of the downsides of these Banshee's is their short seat insertion depth.
This is my bike with a 210mm OneUp, shimmed down to 190mm. My only concern is if I drop to a 180mm post, the seat post collar will be even higher than it already is. Or am I an idiot and wrong? I don't know if I have long legs or what, but my seat has always been giraffe neck like.