The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
Send your 5th to Avalanche and have the internals replaced. Good luck finding a lower link assy until the bankruptcy thing is sorted out. Word around the campfire is that a clearinghouse bought up all the pivot kit inventory on hand.
Check out this link.
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/rearsuspension/vivid/VIVID_PocketGuide.pdf
I started with this and then fine tuned.
Please help me guys, I'm looking for Sunday swing arm, IH is not responding to my e-mails as well as distributors besides UK one. I need it beadly! I've crashed last seson and now it is bent just a little bit in vertical axle
Anybody know who can have one - color doesn't metter
Anybody know who can have one - color doesn't metter
Has anyone tried running an RC4 yet? Just curious if they will fit with the 08 linkage.
you wish! you can only run it after some frame modification is what I heard when t asked fox
I have an RC4 on a sunday and i had to dremmel out the lower link a bit...it looks like the link for the BOS shock shock basically. That lower link might even work with it as well.
whole set: bearings, pins, bolts, pivots, lower link and rockers cost around 250$, lower link about 50$. Pivots supposed to cost the same as the lower link or slightly more. but something around 50$
So no idea about swing arm?where to get one, maby you know some shops that have spare parts for Sunday, front ends or swing arms etc.
let me know please, somebody....
So no idea about swing arm?where to get one, maby you know some shops that have spare parts for Sunday, front ends or swing arms etc.
let me know please, somebody....
I wouldn't do it honestly. I know the 7point gets pretty bad pedal kickback, the Sunday should too, and it will behave as if it's in the 24 even when in the 38 with regards to suspension.
IMO the Hammerschmidt is only effective on bikes with pretty much no discernible chain growth or on hardtails...
IMO the Hammerschmidt is only effective on bikes with pretty much no discernible chain growth or on hardtails...
Took the Sunday out today and one of the expansion bolts (one of the bolts that is part of the lower shock linkage) unscrewed itself and is not gone. Anyone know the size of these bolts and possibly have extras they would be willing to sell. I will pay just about anything at this point.
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3209372&postcount=1949
download and save the sunday exploded view jpg off the first page before it is gone. It has all the specs (measurements and part numbers) for all hardware and bearings.
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Ok so heres one I cant seem to track down. Looked on the old IH website and still no help. I have a DTswiss 440 hub on my Sunday, worldcup fork. I believe thats is the 150mm, I could be wrong. Does anyone know the hub size, and more importantly the bearing sizes. I have play in my hub and Im pretty sure the bearings are the culprit. I tried to find a bearing kit for the front hub but no luck so I am trying to order then correct sizes from enduro.
The rear hub is 150x12. The exploded parts spec is on page 13 of this document: http://www.dtswiss.com/getdoc/e3cea236-eeca-4d01-a75d-322eec291bce/Datasheet.aspx
Edit: it looks like you are looking for front hub info. It's a 110x20 and the specs are on that same document.
rear shock tune...
hi
I found out yesterday that when I have my dhx5 rebound faster, the bike feel a lot better. it really eat everything on its way!!! but I feel it a little strange on turns.
how do you tune yours?
I'm 70 k
on titanium 300 spring
with 75 psi in the air chamber.
thanks.
hi
I found out yesterday that when I have my dhx5 rebound faster, the bike feel a lot better. it really eat everything on its way!!! but I feel it a little strange on turns.
how do you tune yours?
I'm 70 k
on titanium 300 spring
with 75 psi in the air chamber.
thanks.
Hey guys, need some advice.
Thinking of picking up a secondhand Sunday to race for a season or until death, as I'll pick up one of the new '10 frames next year (superco, zerode, etc.) but I've sold my Racelink and I need a new bike. I've always admired the sunday, the angles look perfect, and the sizing is excellent.
My question is: is it safe or reasonably realistic to pick up a used Sunday now, supposing the links and tubes are in good condition? I figure bearings can be replaced, same thing with hangers, but with IH gone and replacement parts AWOL, I don't want to be strung up with 0 resale and no bike to ride.
I have my eye on a pair, one is a 2006 and looks a little beat, but the price can't be matched, and the other is a well maintained Factory frame from 07 with fresh bearings. I can maintain my own ride, but I don't want to have to tear it down EVERY weekend, either.
Thinking of picking up a secondhand Sunday to race for a season or until death, as I'll pick up one of the new '10 frames next year (superco, zerode, etc.) but I've sold my Racelink and I need a new bike. I've always admired the sunday, the angles look perfect, and the sizing is excellent.
My question is: is it safe or reasonably realistic to pick up a used Sunday now, supposing the links and tubes are in good condition? I figure bearings can be replaced, same thing with hangers, but with IH gone and replacement parts AWOL, I don't want to be strung up with 0 resale and no bike to ride.
I have my eye on a pair, one is a 2006 and looks a little beat, but the price can't be matched, and the other is a well maintained Factory frame from 07 with fresh bearings. I can maintain my own ride, but I don't want to have to tear it down EVERY weekend, either.
I'd go for the 2007 since it will have the updated links (stronger shock pins, easier to service and adjust).
I agree with Jack, as long as you get a 2007 and up you should be good to go. I might buy an extra set of bearings and bushing just in case, but I think for the most part you would be fine. I got a 2006 and although I got all the stuff in time, it was really hard to come by. I can't imagine how difficult it must be to get a link now.
Thanks for the replies, guys. Can 2006 parts be swapped to a 2008 frame? As in, if I pick up a 2006 frame, and a 2008 frame, can I swap the rear end or main frame over if I break something? I've found a really good deal on a complete bike and a frame+fork, so I might just get them both.
Same diameter (1/2") as Fox, Marzocchi, and Rock Shox (Vivid). Any of those will work for you.
Oops, I need to explain a little better on the parts that I need for my 2005 Sunday team. I need the pin that goes through the shock mounting kit that have an Allen bolts on both end of the pin the part number I thinks is 28-8307-7 and 28-8307-6. You response are very much appreciated.
The short answer, Yes.
I did this for this year. I bought an 06 factory frame before IH stopped answering their phones. When I couldnt get parts from IH I picked up a used 08 expert complete. The 08 links are much better that the 06 stuff. I just finished building it up. I have fresh powder on the 06 factory frame with the 08 links, Enduro MaxE bearings and I had marzocchi send me a new roco WC(so efin plush!). So now I have one complete race bike and enough parts to build a second if I bust something.
Oh, I ditched the FSA/ e-13 reducer cups and used Cane Creek's new Double Xc flush mount II head set and it works awesome and its much lighter too.
Some tips for new Sunday owners:
Keep in mind that all 07+ frames have a front triangle that is 0.9lbs (408g) lighter than 05-06 frames. So if you have a choice of frames, the 07+ ones are the best because they are significantly lighter and obviously have the new F7 linkage kit also.
I'd also advise spending some time learning exactly how the linkage and shock hardware operates if you have an F7 frame, because provided you understand how everything works and assemble things accordingly, you should get many years of service life out of the frame and hardware.
The lower shock pin in particular is worth learning about, it enters from the non drive-side, and must be hammered in and out (screw in a long M6 bolt first so you have something to hit) from the appropriate side (drive side when removing, non-drive side when installing). The pin should be greased well, while keeping the threaded holes at each end free of grease so that the bolt threads can be loctited. The tightening order for these bolts is (after hammering the pin in from non-drive side until it bottoms out) drive side first, and non-drive side second. The drive side countersunk M6 screw clamps the shock in the frame (step 1) while the non-drive side screw expands the pin (wedge system) inside the 22mm-head alloy pivot so that it cannot move (step 2). When it comes to removing the shock pin, you want to unscrew things in the same order (drive-side screw first, non-drive side screw - wedge side - second).
All pivot hardware and shock pin hardware should be greased well, however you should do so in a way that keeps grease away from the threads (which should be cleaned with iso / spirits, and loctited). 242 loctite is good for most hardware on the frame, I'd recommend 262 for the two countersunk M6 screws that go into the lower shock pin, and also the upper shock pin screw - especially if you like to ride your bike for long periods without checking hardware for tightness.
Before assembling the bike (and prior to installing the shock) it is worth tightening up the 22mm-head alloy pivots that hold the lower link to the main frame. I have noticed them to err on the loose side from factory, and it's a pain to tighten them once you have a chainguide/crankset/shock mounted, so do it prior.
If you have an F7 linkaged frame and have any play in the lower link (rear triangle pivot), or the upper link (rear triangle pivots), read my post here. This is usually caused by stripping the frame (for painting or anodizing) however it's easily fixed.
That's everything I can think of. Oh, last one, fork bumpers - make sure you have them hitting the toptube, not the downtube / headtube gusset. The gusset can dent, the toptube won't.
Happy horsing!
Udi
Keep in mind that all 07+ frames have a front triangle that is 0.9lbs (408g) lighter than 05-06 frames. So if you have a choice of frames, the 07+ ones are the best because they are significantly lighter and obviously have the new F7 linkage kit also.
I'd also advise spending some time learning exactly how the linkage and shock hardware operates if you have an F7 frame, because provided you understand how everything works and assemble things accordingly, you should get many years of service life out of the frame and hardware.
The lower shock pin in particular is worth learning about, it enters from the non drive-side, and must be hammered in and out (screw in a long M6 bolt first so you have something to hit) from the appropriate side (drive side when removing, non-drive side when installing). The pin should be greased well, while keeping the threaded holes at each end free of grease so that the bolt threads can be loctited. The tightening order for these bolts is (after hammering the pin in from non-drive side until it bottoms out) drive side first, and non-drive side second. The drive side countersunk M6 screw clamps the shock in the frame (step 1) while the non-drive side screw expands the pin (wedge system) inside the 22mm-head alloy pivot so that it cannot move (step 2). When it comes to removing the shock pin, you want to unscrew things in the same order (drive-side screw first, non-drive side screw - wedge side - second).
All pivot hardware and shock pin hardware should be greased well, however you should do so in a way that keeps grease away from the threads (which should be cleaned with iso / spirits, and loctited). 242 loctite is good for most hardware on the frame, I'd recommend 262 for the two countersunk M6 screws that go into the lower shock pin, and also the upper shock pin screw - especially if you like to ride your bike for long periods without checking hardware for tightness.
Before assembling the bike (and prior to installing the shock) it is worth tightening up the 22mm-head alloy pivots that hold the lower link to the main frame. I have noticed them to err on the loose side from factory, and it's a pain to tighten them once you have a chainguide/crankset/shock mounted, so do it prior.
If you have an F7 linkaged frame and have any play in the lower link (rear triangle pivot), or the upper link (rear triangle pivots), read my post here. This is usually caused by stripping the frame (for painting or anodizing) however it's easily fixed.
That's everything I can think of. Oh, last one, fork bumpers - make sure you have them hitting the toptube, not the downtube / headtube gusset. The gusset can dent, the toptube won't.
Happy horsing!
Udi
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this post, Udi, should be in the first page!
great write up!
great write up!
alright, i know about the places that supposedly have linkage kits but no luck so far. iv'e read the past post so dont lecture me on that. ANY NEW INFORMATION ON LINKAGE KIT AVAILABILITY?
another question i had was if my linkage became looser (it is already loose), will that potentially lead my shock eyelet to become stripped? or will any part of my shock get messed up?
another question i had was if my linkage became looser (it is already loose), will that potentially lead my shock eyelet to become stripped? or will any part of my shock get messed up?
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Ok so maybe one of your guys has run into this before. Cased a landing a bit and managed to killed my bashguard but when I looked at the lower dw link I noticed on of the expanding m6 scews had backed inself out a little and the bigger hex bolt had backed out a lil too. I dont know when this happend but it did. There is now play in the link and Im pretty sure its coming from that area. I have managed to get everything back into place but there are my problems. 1. I think one of the m6 screws is stick in as I unscrew it the larger hex bolt also moved. 2. I have a race this weekend and I dont have any time to have this bike out of commision. Have any of you guys run into this?
What are the more likely reasons that there is play there now. Now huge play, but some. Also at some point I will need to take this apart but I dont want to do it now and take the bike out of commision.
What are the more likely reasons that there is play there now. Now huge play, but some. Also at some point I will need to take this apart but I dont want to do it now and take the bike out of commision.
Read my post.
I'll give you a hint though - the problem won't fix itself, it will involve you taking some tools and tightening what is loose, lubricating what is stuck, and loctiting what you don't want coming loose next time. How long you leave that is up to you, keep in mind that riding the bike with components not correctly torqued can cause wear or damage.
I'll give you a hint though - the problem won't fix itself, it will involve you taking some tools and tightening what is loose, lubricating what is stuck, and loctiting what you don't want coming loose next time. How long you leave that is up to you, keep in mind that riding the bike with components not correctly torqued can cause wear or damage.
No fear, this has happened to me before because my shock blew in the middle of a gnarly rock section, so it was like casing 20 jumps in 5 seconds. Just tighten everything back up and check the sir pressure in your shock. It might be a little low.
Hi everyone, I need help on the bearing kit, I am about to order the bearing kit from Enduroforkseals.com for my 2005 Sunday team. Is the kit from Enduroforkseals.com are one size fit all? I know that starting 2006 Iron Horse change the bottom linkage. Can someone help please?
Thanks davep, what you mention of the Shim/spacer on the bearing. I was thinking the bearing that I got from Enduroforkseal was looking somewhat odd. The inner race of the bearing had an extended lip on one side. So the shim/spacer facing the DW link or away form the DW link. Thanks again for the response.