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My 08 Glory DH

Sir_Crackien

Turbo Monkey
Feb 7, 2004
2,051
0
alex. va. usa.
seat/seatpost, cranks(though saints are awesome). that would take a fair amount off.

but why care. you have already started with a heavyish frame. just go ride it and have fun.
 

dh_newbie

Monkey
Jun 7, 2006
191
0
Hong Kong
seat/seatpost, cranks(though saints are awesome). that would take a fair amount off.

but why care. you have already started with a heavyish frame. just go ride it and have fun.
Thankyou for your advice, your mentioned parts which can be off ~ 1 lbs...

I have weight the Glory (S) with Fox DHX 4.0 with steel spring is 12.5 lbs...I know it is heavy....anyway I haven't recovery due to I was fracture my humerus...I hope I can post the ride picture later...
 

JewBagel

Monkey
Apr 22, 2008
229
0
oregon
I beam post and Belair SL saddle, amazingly comfortable and around 400 grams with a cut post. Cranks, saints are sick but heavy, I don't know the BB spacing but a set of hone's with steel inserts would probably be durable enough and save quite a bit of weight, tubeless would save about a lb after the conversion. Or a Hadley/EX823 wheelset if you have the money, very sick and running tubless saves a good amount.
 

ronan

Monkey
Dec 7, 2007
786
0
Toulouse, France
I beam post and Belair SL saddle, amazingly comfortable and around 400 grams with a cut post. Cranks, saints are sick but heavy, I don't know the BB spacing but a set of hone's with steel inserts would probably be durable enough and save quite a bit of weight, tubeless would save about a lb after the conversion. Or a Hadley/EX823 wheelset if you have the money, very sick and running tubless saves a good amount.
does it actually save a good amount over lightweight tubes?

i've been thinking about building up some new wheels to get rid of my stock singletracks and cant decide to go tubeless(823's, no diy tubeless) or not
 

Nagaredama

Turbo Monkey
Nov 15, 2004
1,596
2
Manhattan Beach, CA USA
I beam post and Belair SL saddle, amazingly comfortable and around 400 grams with a cut post. Cranks, saints are sick but heavy, I don't know the BB spacing but a set of hone's with steel inserts would probably be durable enough and save quite a bit of weight, tubeless would save about a lb after the conversion. Or a Hadley/EX823 wheelset if you have the money, very sick and running tubeless saves a good amount.
Bottom bracket shell is 83mm. Good crank options include FSA Gravity Light, Middleburn RS7 ISIS, and now Race Face makes the Atlas in 83mm.

Hope/823's would be cheaper and lighter. Typically running tubeless doesn't save you that much weight since 823's are heavy and tubeless DH tires are generally heavier as well.

Probably cheaper and more effective to lose some weight off your body than the bike.
 

Dwdrums00

Monkey
Mar 31, 2007
224
0
Cranks (Gravity lite or the new race face atlas FR) Both will cut about .6 lbs. Pedals, wellgo mg-1 should cut about .3lbs or so. New Seatpost/saddle. 721 rims with alloy nipples and sapiem spokes. New cassette, Sram PG 950 or shimano dura-ace. That should cut another .3 lbs at the very least. My frame is only 1.4lbs lighter then yours and my Intense M6's weights 36.39lbs. With that being said you can cut a ton of weight.
 

Metal Dude

Turbo Monkey
Apr 7, 2006
1,139
0
Smackdonough, GA
Titanium spring - Azonic rear axle - another 3/4 of a lb once you change
some of the others suggested.
I have an 07 Glory - didn't think the frame was that heavy-
Some things you must realize givin up weight means sacrificing strength!
I run profile megatanium crank arms with titanium spindle-about exact weight of saints but, stronger!
I don't know about running some of the other cranks-or rims lighter than 823's? How dependable do you want the bike. My sh!t held up all last season with no probs. to worry with at races.
I was at 42.5 also but, now have it down to 40.5 with a seat- spring and axle change as well as going from dh tubes to fr tubes and from an xt cass. to a ultegra 12-25
 

FCLinder

Turbo Monkey
Mar 6, 2002
4,402
0
Greenville, South Carolina
Here is my old thread on how I took my stock Glory from 46lbs down to 40.5lbs. The thread is long but you will see what parts I used. Its a great bike and you will love it. I would say with the Boxxer WC you should be able to see as low as 39ish. I saved the most weight in the Wheels and running tubeless. The stock wheels which you look like you have are boats!!!!!

http://ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177961&highlight=Glory

Good luck and enjoy that bike,
Cecil
 

JDA

Chimp
Feb 6, 2008
60
0
Sydney, Australia
Nice bike mate! they are a very nice ride indeed.

Mine is 18.3kg but could be 18kg with a 721 on hope pro2 front wheel but I like my gold hub too much.

Swap your rear axle to an aluminium one, 224 axle in mine but others are cheaper, save you about 120g.



I'm running an old set of isis gravity light cranks, DHX Air and boxxers are WC spec, wellgo MG-1 pedals, Easton bar & stem, I-beam etc.
 

Tmeyer

Monkey
Mar 26, 2005
585
1
SLC
Heres mine at 41.2, FR model but I got it for the TT length. Easily could get it under 40 with a Boxxer WC....

 

dh_newbie

Monkey
Jun 7, 2006
191
0
Hong Kong
Cranks (Gravity lite or the new race face atlas FR) Both will cut about .6 lbs. Pedals, wellgo mg-1 should cut about .3lbs or so. New Seatpost/saddle. 721 rims with alloy nipples and sapiem spokes. New cassette, Sram PG 950 or shimano dura-ace. That should cut another .3 lbs at the very least. My frame is only 1.4lbs lighter then yours and my Intense M6's weights 36.39lbs. With that being said you can cut a ton of weight.
I am thinking for the crankset, seat post & saddles. Due to our trail condition, I am not captable to use the road cassette.

I am using the EN521 & EX721 rim now.

We are quit difficult to buy the gravity light at the LBS. My bike is using the Vivid 5.1 with 400 lbs ti-spring now...I hope it can be reach the below 41 lbs level.
 

JewBagel

Monkey
Apr 22, 2008
229
0
oregon
Tubeless will save a good bit of weight and you can carry a tube around just in case. I run light weight tubes depending on the conditions. I can get away with it at my local trails as long as I don't end up in the black berries. Then there's place like whistler where I seem to flat a DH tube or two per day even if I run 40+ psi. I think the hadley/823 wheelset is about 2450g and then the tire weight. I've got a WTB superduty and was going to build it up to a single track but even with a light tube and 1000g tire it would have saved around 4 ounces and lost a lot of durability.

I'd avoide the gravity light cranks. A friend put them on his sunday when he was building it as light as possible. He hit his pedal on a rock during a race and bent the arm, one ride.

All of the savings depend on your terrain. If longevity or cost isn't an issue you could drop it to under 40lb easily. I wouldn't worry about it too much unless you're racing.

As for pedal weights, get something durable, i.e. not mag, instead. I've found it's much better to ride a really comfortable pedal than to save a few ounces with a small bodied mag pedal. Pedals are the least noticible savings on the bike, beyond picking it up there really isn't a point to get SL pedals. I've swapped between those old DK iron cross pedals (around 900g/set) to some wellgo mg4's(420g/set) and noticed no difference in how my bike rode beyond the feel of the pedal against my foot.

I don't know the spacing but you can never go wrong with a set of Hone's with the steel insert as long as you have a 68/73mm BB shell.

Get a shimano XT cassette if your rear hub has an alloy cassette body. I just switched from a SRAM 950 11-26 to the XT because the 950 is all individual cogs and was chewing up my DT440 cassette body.

And with wheels. I've built a lot of them, don't get alloy nipples unless you're building a race wheel. Alloy nipples break and round off a lot easier, I can't say they are close to worth it for the approx. 20g/wheel they save. The sapim spokes are great, just a little spendy.
 

dh_newbie

Monkey
Jun 7, 2006
191
0
Hong Kong
Tubeless will save a good bit of weight and you can carry a tube around just in case. I run light weight tubes depending on the conditions. I can get away with it at my local trails as long as I don't end up in the black berries. Then there's place like whistler where I seem to flat a DH tube or two per day even if I run 40+ psi. I think the hadley/823 wheelset is about 2450g and then the tire weight. I've got a WTB superduty and was going to build it up to a single track but even with a light tube and 1000g tire it would have saved around 4 ounces and lost a lot of durability.

I'd avoide the gravity light cranks. A friend put them on his sunday when he was building it as light as possible. He hit his pedal on a rock during a race and bent the arm, one ride.

All of the savings depend on your terrain. If longevity or cost isn't an issue you could drop it to under 40lb easily. I wouldn't worry about it too much unless you're racing.

As for pedal weights, get something durable, i.e. not mag, instead. I've found it's much better to ride a really comfortable pedal than to save a few ounces with a small bodied mag pedal. Pedals are the least noticible savings on the bike, beyond picking it up there really isn't a point to get SL pedals. I've swapped between those old DK iron cross pedals (around 900g/set) to some wellgo mg4's(420g/set) and noticed no difference in how my bike rode beyond the feel of the pedal against my foot.

Get a shimano XT cassette if your rear hub has an alloy cassette body. I just switched from a SRAM 950 11-26 to the XT because the 950 is all individual cogs and was chewing up my DT440 cassette body.

And with wheels. I've built a lot of them, don't get alloy nipples unless you're building a race wheel. Alloy nipples break and round off a lot easier, I can't say they are close to worth it for the approx. 20g/wheel they save. The sapim spokes are great, just a little spendy.
Wheelset: I think I will keep the exsiting wheelset. I using the Hadley front hub laced with mavic EX721 & A2Z rear hub laced with EN521. The weight is not bad on this wheel, I will change the rim if they got dent until I can't use it. The change of the wheelset is I will use small front tube.

Crankset: I think I will change the crankset to the Truvative OCT. Since I has been weight the crankset what we can get from our LBS. (I can't find any gravity light at our local LBS) My measure & inform from sickline is the OCT 170mm plus the BB is around or below 950 gm which have around 200gm difference to the saint crank which I has been use.

Pedal: Straitline which is using, I feel it has a really good grid. So I will keep it and willn't change to the MG1.

Cassette: I am using the PG990, I don't feel really bad on it. If I use the bike for race. I think I will use the road cassette due to the terrain and trail which we are riding also have the uphill section. So I will not change the road cassette for the normal trail riding use.

Which components which I has been changed:-
I has been use back the EA70 handlebar, I feel it suit be very well. Although now most manufactuer make the handlebar longer and longer but I feel this bar suit most people very well. If you feel it is not enough longer, so you can add a extener.
Funn FULLON -> Easton EA70

I also change the saddle to the V1 saddle & thomson seat post to lower ~ 150 gm.
Gobi + RF diabolus -> Sunline V1 + Thomson
After I finish all changing, I will post the bike picture again.
 

yuroshek

Turbo Monkey
Jun 26, 2007
2,438
0
Arizona!
nice DH man, you will love it. id like to get mine down but i dont really care. its around 45 right now with DH tubes and everything. i love it how it sits so im gonna leave it alone. heres a pic of me on mine!







 

dh_newbie

Monkey
Jun 7, 2006
191
0
Hong Kong
nice DH man, you will love it. id like to get mine down but i dont really care. its around 45 right now with DH tubes and everything. i love it how it sits so im gonna leave it alone. heres a pic of me on mine!
I saw your pic at the mtbr before, thankyou for your advice.