[buckoW]

https://www.cyclingnews.com/features/how-are-bicycles-made-from-mine-to-market/?utm_campaign=socialflow&utm_medium=social&utm_content=cyclingnews&utm_source=facebook.com&fbclid=IwAR2qTGPl0_S_dxHNjBh1l0la8XIvio7jMql_IZSiNf5n2PXsSszFqnlp7UI

Are we really making a difference by claiming our latest « wallet vote?« Or is it a guilty box check?

 

[rideit]

In the sage words of Perry Farrell,
”And it’s MINE, all MINE, and I don’t hafta pay for i-it”

 

[Westy]

I will just wait for @Changleen to defend his eco-friendly lifestyle.

 

[Changleen]

I will just wait for @Changleen to defend his eco-friendly lifestyle.

Seems I don’t even need to anymore. You’re doing it in your head for me.

 

[buckoW]

Seems I don’t even need to anymore. You’re doing it in your head for me.

I didn’t know that all high end steel tubing is recycled. That is kinda cool.

So, my recycled steel front triangle offsets my carbon rear end?

 

[englertracing]

I didn’t know that all high end steel tubing is recycled. That is kinda cool.

So, my recycled steel front triangle offsets my carbon rear end?

View attachment 173617

How are you liking your creation?

 

[buckoW]

How are you liking your creation?

Somehow it’s working out way better than expected. I made 3 for me and one for my wife as well and she is linking her’s a lot too.

This is the short travel one.

 

[norbar]

I didn’t know that all high end steel tubing is recycled. That is kinda cool.

So, my recycled steel front triangle offsets my carbon rear end?

View attachment 173617

I have to say it's the best looking bike I've seen in a long time.

 

[konastab01]

I didn’t know that all high end steel tubing is recycled. That is kinda cool.

So, my recycled steel front triangle offsets my carbon rear end?

View attachment 173617

Whats the back end and rockers from?

 

[buckoW]

Whats the back end and rockers from?

A carbon Scott Gambler.

@norbar Thanks!

 

[norbar]

A carbon Scott Gambler.

@norbar Thanks!

How different is the front to the gambler geometry wise. Also is the short travel version still a gambler rear end? Hell if inflation/local currency crash wasn't eating my pay rises it's exactly the type of bike I'd want (sorry for the stupid comment in my "bikes are expensive" rant btw).

 

[konastab01]

Thats very cool

 

[buckoW]

How different is the front to the gambler geometry wise. Also is the short travel version still a gambler rear end? Hell if inflation/local currency crash wasn't eating my pay rises it's exactly the type of bike I'd want (sorry for the stupid comment in my "bikes are expensive" rant btw).

No worries! I didn’t take it personally. Shit is expensive and cool shit even more. I completely understand but since I know you I thought I would speak up.

I made 5 front triangles so far and did geo and kinematic tweaks on all of them. One is sketchy because of shitty welds so I retired it. I like my DH bike but wanted a freeride bike with a 210mm dropper post and an Aenomaly Switchgrade as well as some other drivers.

I have experience designing bikes and working with engineers (17 years) so I wanted to do something 100% for me and my uses. I don’t have to balance or discuss compromises and I can optimize for my world and uses. It is interesting ignoring all else and making it just for you. No need to sell it or even talk about it.

Compared to a Gambler the seat angle is steeper, bb is higher, head angle is slacker, head tube is taller, kinematics more progressive, more seat tube insertion, and a flexy/compliant chassis up front with a light and precise rear end. These are replacing my little bikes like Ransom and Raaw Madonna. I had the rooty steeps of Bex in mind and casually pedaling through the vineyards back to the train.

You and Kacper come to Morgins this summer and I’ll lend both of you a diy bike!


@konastab01 Thanks!

 

[norbar]

No worries! I didn’t take it personally. Shit is expensive and cool shit even more. I completely understand but since I know you I thought I would speak up.

I made 5 front triangles so far and did geo and kinematic tweaks on all of them. One is sketchy because of shitty welds so I retired it. I like my DH bike but wanted a freeride bike with a 210mm dropper post and an Aenomaly Switchgrade as well as some other drivers.

I have experience designing bikes and working with engineers (17 years) so I wanted to do something 100% for me and my uses. I don’t have to balance or discuss compromises and I can optimize for my world and uses. It is interesting ignoring all else and making it just for you. No need to sell it or even talk about it.

Compared to a Gambler the seat angle is steeper, bb is higher, head angle is slacker, head tube is taller, kinematics more progressive, more seat tube insertion, and a flexy/compliant chassis up front with a light and precise rear end. These are replacing my little bikes like Ransom and Raaw Madonna. I had the rooty steeps of Bex in mind and casually pedaling through the vineyards back to the train.

You and Kacper come to Morgins this summer and I’ll lend both of you a diy bike!


@konastab01 Thanks!

Damn now I have an even bigger fomo I'm planning to go back to PDS and Morgins next year and not this one (though who knows, ).

Re bb height. Is it still 200mm of travel and that's why you want it higher? Since for bikes that only go down I realized i like my bb lower than most people and I just deal with pedal and bb strikes but for enduro I'm still completely unsure where I want my BB since the track variety is much bigger.

Also the weight and travel affect pedaling (or carrying the bike up) a lot? I think the longest travel pedally bikes I tried were 170mm and but I'm curious how capable are 180-200mm pedally bikes. I know it's probably a bad compromise but I'd dream to have a bike that can handle gnar and do a multi stage enduro event (those are tempting since the trails are in some fun areas). I am getting just a capable enduro bike for now once any company has anything on offer but I'm totally unsure what's the perfect bike for me here.

 

[buckoW]

Damn now I have an even bigger fomo I'm planning to go back to PDS and Morgins next year and not this one (though who knows, ).

Re bb height. Is it still 200mm of travel and that's why you want it higher? Since for bikes that only go down I realized i like my bb lower than most people and I just deal with pedal and bb strikes but for enduro I'm still completely unsure where I want my BB since the track variety is much bigger.

Also the weight and travel affect pedaling (or carrying the bike up) a lot? I think the longest travel pedally bikes I tried were 170mm and but I'm curious how capable are 180-200mm pedally bikes. I know it's probably a bad compromise but I'd dream to have a bike that can handle gnar and do a multi stage enduro event (those are tempting since the trails are in some fun areas). I am getting just a capable enduro bike for now once any company has anything on offer but I'm totally unsure what's the perfect bike for me here.

They are plenty light actually. With DH tires and DH build they are around 15.9-16.3kg. If I ran my lighter enduro parts and tires then I could save a bunch of weight. I run the rears at 170mm most of the time and with that much progression they feel similar to 180 or 200. Same starting leverage ratio so they feel the same when pedaling unless you use the last 3cm on a 200mm bike while pedaling.

The rear end can be adjusted form 150-180 or 170-200 depending on which one. At that point the DH tires slow you down more than the extra 3cm of travel. Firm shocks, higher AS and steeper seat angles make theses kind of bikes pedal pretty good. We are riding Bex a lot lately and that’s around an 800m descent with minimal climbing and traversing. I don’t ride bikes for the climbing though. I climb to ride bikes. It’s like when I go to work.

I want it higher, statically to compensate for the lower dynamic ride height due to a higher starting leverage ratio. I put the bb at 345mm with a very supple starting leverage ratio. Low bb with a high starting leverage ratio creates a balance issue for me and in big hits the bike has a rearward bias thus unweighting the front tire and she pushed wide when shit gets rough. Low bb is fine and I like it too but not when you start making your starting leverage ratio above 3.4:1. My latest bike has around 40% progression paired with a pretty firm but creamy shock tune. Interesting but might heat up a lot on long runs. Feels sweet for what I am doing right now. I made slight variations on 3 frames and I’m riding them all and enjoying the chin scratching. The roots are getting gobbled and that was the goal.

 

[toodles]

**stuff**

Lol first attempt and builds a better bike than half the companies doing it for years.

 

[norbar]

They are plenty light actually. With DH tires and DH build they are around 15.9-16.3kg. If I ran my lighter enduro parts and tires then I could save a bunch of weight. I run the rears at 170mm most of the time and with that much progression they feel similar to 180 or 200. Same starting leverage ratio so they feel the same when pedaling unless you use the last 3cm on a 200mm bike while pedaling.

The rear end can be adjusted form 150-180 or 170-200 depending on which one. At that point the DH tires slow you down more than the extra 3cm of travel. Firm shocks, higher AS and steeper seat angles make theses kind of bikes pedal pretty good. We are riding Bex a lot lately and that’s around an 800m descent with minimal climbing and traversing. I don’t ride bikes for the climbing though. I climb to ride bikes. It’s like when I go to work.

I want it higher, statically to compensate for the lower dynamic ride height due to a higher starting leverage ratio. I put the bb at 345mm with a very supple starting leverage ratio. Low bb with a high starting leverage ratio creates a balance issue for me and in big hits the bike has a rearward bias thus unweighting the front tire and she pushed wide when shit gets rough. Low bb is fine and I like it too but not when you start making your starting leverage ratio above 3.4:1. My latest bike has around 40% progression paired with a pretty firm but creamy shock tune. Interesting but might heat up a lot on long runs. Feels sweet for what I am doing right now. I made slight variations on 3 frames and I’m riding them all and enjoying the chin scratching. The roots are getting gobbled and that was the goal.

Yeah I'm curious about uphill mostly because I want a bike that will be useful if I decide to go to weird remote places. Madeira is basically my test bed for such trips but I want to go to less popular spots too and they often include quite long uphills/push trails. Otherwise I'd probably just replace my Legend with a 29er Legend. I'm building my cardio back up and I have some friends who know africa quite well and I am hoping to use their tips/connections to maybe ride the bike in weird places.

Re. BB Height - I think Legend started the Leverage ratio at 3.45:1 and had 348bb height @ 200mm of travel and with around 30-35% of sag and it felt great cornering wise but I felt what you mention on other bikes since the legend was uber short so it's weight balance issues were a bit different to modern bikes. Also can't the balance issue be handled by other geometry figures? Longer CS for example? The long CS thing is starting to grow on me (no pun intended) as long as it doesn't go towards crazy numbers (some old pre 2010 c-dales were weird as they had short TT's and long back ends and they handled like driving a really short semi truck)

 

[Andeh]

A bike that you can convert from trail bike to DH with about an hour of work actually would make a ton of sense for a lot of people who only can get to a bike park a few times per year.

I didn't find much desire to swap between mid travel and long travel setups on my GG, but if they make a DH kit that would be interesting to me. I realize you end up swapping almost everything except the frame and maybe brakes, bars, grips, and cranks, but that's still a pretty large savings compared to having a complete second bike that literally would only get ridden a few times per year, and save wear & tear on the "good" (trail bike) components.

 

[buckoW]

A bike that you can convert from trail bike to DH with about an hour of work actually would make a ton of sense for a lot of people who only can get to a bike park a few times per year.

I didn't find much desire to swap between mid travel and long travel setups on my GG, but if they make a DH kit that would be interesting to me. I realize you end up swapping almost everything except the frame and maybe brakes, bars, grips, and cranks, but that's still a pretty large savings compared to having a complete second bike that literally would only get ridden a few times per year, and save wear & tear on the "good" (trail bike) components.

The stroke reducing spacers I clip into my coil shocks are very fast to put on and take off. If you have enough progression in the leverage ratio then it is possible to lop off the last part of the curve and have a short travel setup. I make them more progressive if I want to run less travel.

Lol first attempt and builds a better bike than half the companies doing it for years.

Thanks!

I’m loving my new level of bike dorking.

It’s to offset my Polish e-commuter reputation…haha

 

[mykel]

A bike that you can convert from trail bike to DH with about an hour of work actually would make a ton of sense for a lot of people who only can get to a bike park a few times per year.

I didn't find much desire to swap between mid travel and long travel setups on my GG, but if they make a DH kit that would be interesting to me. I realize you end up swapping almost everything except the frame and maybe brakes, bars, grips, and cranks, but that's still a pretty large savings compared to having a complete second bike that literally would only get ridden a few times per year, and save wear & tear on the "good" (trail bike) components.

I did the one bike for both trail and DH for a few years.
Two forks and two wheelsets, everything else was the same.
Did not take long to swap between modes. Change the position of the shock stuttle to change head angle, adjust rear dropouts if I had them on that frame, swap fork and wheels. You could swap between the modes in under 15 minutes.

 

[buckoW]

I did the one bike for both trail and DH for a few years.
Two forks and two wheelsets, everything else was the same.
Did not take long to swap between modes. Change the position of the shock stuttle to change head angle, adjust rear dropouts if I had them on that frame, swap fork and wheels. You could swap between the modes in under 15 minutes.

I do this to all my bikes and find cool combos I like.

 

[shirk007]

I sorta did this years ago on a frame.

DH / Shuttle mode was a Totem with DHX coil, and pedal bike mode was the first gen Fox 36 Talas 150mm with a DHX Air. Rear travel didn't change but the 180mm vs 150mm fork sure made a change to the bike. Only had one set of wheels, usually the same tires unless it was planned to be longer big pedal mission then I'd swap in something lighter and more efficient.

 

[kidwoo]

Somehow it’s working out way better than expected. I made 3 for me and one for my wife as well and she is linking her’s a lot too.

This is the short travel one.
View attachment 173638

Oh nice, I hadn't seen the penny farthing one!

 

[buckoW]

Oh nice, I hadn't seen the penny farthing one!

That is the VTT version. Vélo Tout Terrain! She´s loose and real fun to ride.