Still no weight of the 2.5 single ply. Thanks though.http://www.mmasports.com/maxxis/maxxisindex.htm
thats the best I can find. maxxis.co.uk doesn't have any bike tires on their site.
What? Where did you get yours?I ran out to the shop and weighed one just for you.
961g
Sweet. I ordered a set from ChainReaction. They are having a sale right now and shipping was only $20 so I still saved a bunch.Here you go:
http://www.justridingalong.com/news/category/bike-kit/product-weights/
"Minion Wire 2.5 fr - 860-870g (3 weighed) average of 867g"
Does vary from the 961 quoted below though...
Sweet. I ordered a set from ChainReaction. They are having a sale right now and shipping was only $20 so I still saved a bunch.
I just picked up a set myself. How are they on hardpack compared to like the supertacky?after years of running 3c and supertacky on the rear I switched to 60 a last summer.
Spook me out a little the first day but now that I got used to it I like it even better.On the wet there's a good difference and I would probably put a 42a for racing but for riding the bike park on the weekend they're great.Fast rolling and last a LOT longer.
I wouldn't worry about it.....the sidewall on singleply Maxxis wears out in like 3 rides. You might start to even seen threads on the second ride if it's serious ride....Does anyone run a combo where the front and rear wear out at the same time? I was thinking a ST front and a 3C rear or 60d rear. Id like to just replace both tires at the same time.
I was talking about 2plys. The 1ply 2.5 Minon only comes in 60d.I wouldn't worry about it.....the sidewall on singleply Maxxis wears out in like 3 rides. You might start to even seen threads on the second ride if it's serious ride....
huh?I wouldn't worry about it.....the sidewall on singleply Maxxis wears out in like 3 rides. You might start to even seen threads on the second ride if it's serious ride....
Yeah it's not bs. Have a 7 foot stack of Maxxis tires in the basement...love the 2 ply DH tires. Singleply....the sidewall is like paper. That's not bs just look at them.huh?
I used the 2.35 on my am bike all last year, tubeless with Stans strips and they're still in good shape. I'm 215lbs and run them around 30psi.
I call bs on that one.
Where do you ride? What bike were these single plys on?Yeah it's not bs. Have a 7 foot stack of Maxxis tires in the basement...love the 2 ply DH tires. Singleply....the sidewall is like paper. That's not bs just look at them.
If you run run tubeless and super high xc tire pressure then i suppose they might last......don't really see the point in running rock hard tires though.
Either way this is the internet and you never saw my shredded sinlgeply tires....
The trails here a pretty rocky but the soil is usually kind of soft. I usually run my PSI as low as possible while still having decent pinch flat protection. So that was prob in mid-low 30's with the Maxxis singeply. Bought a few sets of the singleply because i loved the daulply so much and then could have the trail bike (Heckler) set up on the same type tires as the DH bike.Where do you ride? What bike were these single plys on?
I just want to give the single plys a shot for AM. Ill keep the DH tires for resorts and shuttles.
Im not calling BS. Ive seen single plys last 1 ride to a full season. It depends on the rider and the terrain. I completely believe you but there are a lot of factors involved. Fill me/us in.
Yeah... maybe there is a regional difference. Here in WA, I have had nothing that would amount to a "problem" with single ply on my trail bike. Once last summer I cut a sidewall on the first ride - trying out an Ardent. But other than that...huh?
I used the 2.35 on my am bike all last year, tubeless with Stans strips and they're still in good shape. I'm 215lbs and run them around 30psi.
I call bs on that one.
I doubt this really works the way you are thinking, as it really just doesn't make any sense.I can understand the reason why some run soft up front and hard in the rear for racing, but I have my own idea that has works really well for me. You may find it interesting, you may not, but it's just an idea for you.
Now keep in mind, I don't race. I'm just a weekend warrior in the woods. Okay?
1st, the reasons I buy a tire:
I want a tire to last me. But I also want it to dig in, bend over to the side nobs and bite on soft stuff. Yet I want good stiff uphill bite on hills. Soft pliable rubber bites better, but hard rubber lasts longer. So rather than buy two different rubber compounds, wanting a tire to last me is my only solution that gives me two options. Buying soft compounds does not. Well, that's at least my thinking. See if you agree.
My solution: I buy the stiffest 60d compound. This gives me options the soft tire wont. I run a 60d Maxxis Minion 2.5 only I run different air pressures in the front and rear.
The 60d give me a wire bead, more thread count in the sidewalls and a harder, thicker side wall for less pinch flats and I get more side wall support than a soft compound. This is part of my thinking. Under normal load straight up riding, the sidewalls hold up well, but under the extra pressure of a turn, it bends over a little thus applying the side nobs to the terrain and the nobs are hard rubber compound therefore they dig in and wont bend like the soft rubber compound thus giving me a better bite. The harder 60d compound gives me the hard stiffness, yet the low air pressure I use forces my tire to flex over on the sides and apply the nobs earlier, like a soft rubber compound tire yet the nobs are not soft allowing flex, they are hard, thus grabbing the soft stuff providing better bite, yet the side walls are flexible enough to allow the nobs to flex with the harder stuff in a turn. On the rear I run more air pressure but I still let my rear tire sag a bit to allow me good bite uphill in the hard, soft, wet or muddy stuff, via the hard nobs and via the stiffness of the sidewalls providing support to the hard nobs yet flexible to bend under the air pressure I run.
My feeling is you can't harden up a soft rubber compound into being stiff, but you can soften up a hard rubber compound into acting like a soft tire by lowering the pressure. No matter how much air you put in, a soft rubber tire and nob is going to flex too much where as a hard rubber compound you can soften with less air and get the best of both worlds.
It's the military Hummer principle. Hardest tire, but in sand, simply drop the air pressure and keep on trudging forward.
I run mine at slight sag with me sitting on it, front side wall about 25% sag, and when I bounce up and down riding on it at about 40% sag. Rear tire I run it about 15% and it sinks about 30% when I jump up and down on it. Low air give me flexibility to the terrain, 60d sidewalls gives me more support under lower pressure, and 60d give me harder nobs providing more bite.
Works for me, might work for you.
You haven't learned to use your delete button have you? Ya know, you don't have to put a whole quote into your post. Well, no point there considering you generalize like you are right. It doesn't make sense because you don't get the concept. But you're entitled to doubt anything you like. It's the USA. First off, companies offering soft compounds wasn't the point or the question. Second off, the comment was directed to the person that started this thread. Not you.I doubt this really works the way you are thinking, as it really just doesn't make any sense. As for the Hummer tire principle yada yada... but look at any competion off-road tire like BFG Krawlers yada yada and they are all offered in sticky, low durometer compounds.
You can not.You can soften a harder rubber compound tire to act like a soft compound through air pressure.
Once again, my original comment was to the thread poster. It's obvious you're just here to argue. Stop being a jackass. Go away. Call Maxxis and get edjucated. Talk to a rep and ask the benefits of running lower air pressure in a higher thread count sidewall/high Durometer tire. Try to learn somethingYou can not.
Call Maxxis and get edjucated.
Why do you continue to tie high thread count sidewalls and high durometer rubber together?Talk to a rep and ask the benefits of running lower air pressure in a higher thread count sidewall/high Durometer tire. Try to learn something
A 60 durometer Maxxis Minion as example has a higher thread count gives more sidewall support and a stronger sidewall which allows me to run less air. It works. My front end never washes out, and while my friends cuss, lose traction, and have to put their foot down, I get incredible climbing stick on my back tire. Look, if you don't want to try it, don't. I really don't care.Why do you continue to tie high thread count sidewalls and high durometer rubber together?
And if gravity racers aren't convincing enough, look at ANY motorsport with a pneumatic rubber tire. All of the sponsored pros and serious competitors are running low durometer tires for better traction.Where do you get this from? I was going to abstian from this as it is kind of funny, but it is just too much...
After riding and racing bikes for more than 25 years, I can tell you your idea of less pressure = softer durometer is total B.S. Just take a look around at any gravity racer anywhere in any conditions...the ALL run soft compound tires. Do you really think that every single rider from beginner to Pro, sponsored or paying full price, brand name or blacked out tires, would forego your claimed benefits???