Maxxis Minion 2.5 single ply
- Thread starter Kntr
- Start date
Oh Kanter, go schwalbe and be done with it. For your terrain muddy marys!
http://www.mmasports.com/maxxis/maxxisindex.htm
thats the best I can find, nothing useful though. maxxis.co.uk doesn't have any bike tires on their site.
thats the best I can find, nothing useful though. maxxis.co.uk doesn't have any bike tires on their site.
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I ran out to the shop and weighed one just for you.
961g
961g
Here you go:
http://www.justridingalong.com/news/category/bike-kit/product-weights/
"Minion Wire 2.5 fr - 860-870g (3 weighed) average of 867g"
Does vary from the 961 quoted below though...
http://www.justridingalong.com/news/category/bike-kit/product-weights/
"Minion Wire 2.5 fr - 860-870g (3 weighed) average of 867g"
Does vary from the 961 quoted below though...
Sweet. I ordered a set from ChainReaction. They are having a sale right now and shipping was only $20 so I still saved a bunch.
I saw those too but the 60 durometer spoiled it for me.
I got a set that came OEM on a Kona Stab. Not much good for real DH but they work great as light DH tires on my wife's bike.
after years of running 3c and supertacky on the rear I switched to 60 a last summer.
Spook me out a little the first day but now that I got used to it I like it even better.On the wet there's a good difference and I would probably put a 42a for racing but for riding the bike park on the weekend they're great.Fast rolling and last a LOT longer.
Spook me out a little the first day but now that I got used to it I like it even better.On the wet there's a good difference and I would probably put a 42a for racing but for riding the bike park on the weekend they're great.Fast rolling and last a LOT longer.
I just picked up a set myself. How are they on hardpack compared to like the supertacky?
The one thing I like a lot about the 60a is how "easy" and predictable they are for drifting.
With the 3c you get a LOT of grip and its harder to get the back end drifting but then if you push too far all of a sudden you loose it.There's a very fine line between where the grip is and where its gone and on a fast hardpack surface where you are moving fast, its sketchy to push the tire to its limit unless if your name is Greg Minaar or something.
With the Maxxpro you obviously dont get the same grip, they are not as sticky.Its easier (for me anyway) to move the back of my bike and put it where I want it to be.
I wouldnt recommend them up front thought, tried it, and it plain sucked for me.I spend 80% of my summer in Whistler( 60+ days ) and they are great for pretty much everything when its dry, otherwise I throw a set of Wetscreams on the bike when the weather turns ugly.
Now, I didnt know Maxxis made a single ply 2.5 , I'd interested to try them out but I would imagine they would ride differently if you are aggressive.I bet the tire will fold on itself more than a dual ply and Im not sure it would work for me.
With the 3c you get a LOT of grip and its harder to get the back end drifting but then if you push too far all of a sudden you loose it.There's a very fine line between where the grip is and where its gone and on a fast hardpack surface where you are moving fast, its sketchy to push the tire to its limit unless if your name is Greg Minaar or something.
With the Maxxpro you obviously dont get the same grip, they are not as sticky.Its easier (for me anyway) to move the back of my bike and put it where I want it to be.
I wouldnt recommend them up front thought, tried it, and it plain sucked for me.I spend 80% of my summer in Whistler( 60+ days ) and they are great for pretty much everything when its dry, otherwise I throw a set of Wetscreams on the bike when the weather turns ugly.
Now, I didnt know Maxxis made a single ply 2.5 , I'd interested to try them out but I would imagine they would ride differently if you are aggressive.I bet the tire will fold on itself more than a dual ply and Im not sure it would work for me.
Thanks for an awesome review! About what pressure did you maintain?
I wouldn't worry about it.....the sidewall on singleply Maxxis wears out in like 3 rides. You might start to even seen threads on the second ride if it's serious ride....
I was talking about 2plys. The 1ply 2.5 Minon only comes in 60d.
These are on my trail wheels. They will last longer than that. My buddy ran the stock single ply Minions 2.5s on his Stinky last year and they lasted an entire season. They had a few slices and missing knobs but they held up and he is over 200 lbs. He had to run 40-45 psi though.
I have a set of DH wheels with 2ply. Im not worried.
Harder rear softer front. Theres literally nothing left of my rear 3c and my front is 75%.
Id go 60 rear and 3c front that way you get better peddaling effeciency and the front sticks to stuff vs washing out. + the rear will wear longer and the front might be closer.
Im going triple nano front and rear for most stuff (harder center lugs softer outers: Like 3cs) then guey gluey (Sticky) front when its nasty or rocky/rooty wet icy etc basically a 3c rear and a 40d front.
Kanter if you have a bunch of dusty rocks, loose schale granite, roots, ladders and stunts, wet or dusty timber etc... Id say run 3c front and 60d rear.
I do a bunch of drifting and throw the rear around and swap lines wich tends to eat the rear tire up pretty good and rip lugs.
Id go 60 rear and 3c front that way you get better peddaling effeciency and the front sticks to stuff vs washing out. + the rear will wear longer and the front might be closer.
Im going triple nano front and rear for most stuff (harder center lugs softer outers: Like 3cs) then guey gluey (Sticky) front when its nasty or rocky/rooty wet icy etc basically a 3c rear and a 40d front.
Kanter if you have a bunch of dusty rocks, loose schale granite, roots, ladders and stunts, wet or dusty timber etc... Id say run 3c front and 60d rear.
I do a bunch of drifting and throw the rear around and swap lines wich tends to eat the rear tire up pretty good and rip lugs.
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huh?
I used the 2.35 on my am bike all last year, tubeless with Stans strips and they're still in good shape. I'm 215lbs and run them around 30psi.
I call bs on that one.
I think I would rather run a 42a than a 3c on the rear.They both wear out just as fast.On the 3c the middle thread will last you longer but the side knobs ( slow rezay I believe) start cracking, drying out and breaking quicker than on a 42a.For my needs I would rather have good cornering abilities with less rolling resistance than the opposite.
They both last me about 2 weeks ( 8-10 days )before I start to see some wear and tear.As for the 60a it pretty much doubles.I could go for 1 solid month before I noticing any sign of age on them.
They both last me about 2 weeks ( 8-10 days )before I start to see some wear and tear.As for the 60a it pretty much doubles.I could go for 1 solid month before I noticing any sign of age on them.
Yeah it's not bs. Have a 7 foot stack of Maxxis tires in the basement...love the 2 ply DH tires. Singleply....the sidewall is like paper. That's not bs just look at them.
If you run run tubeless and super high xc tire pressure then i suppose they might last......don't really see the point in running rock hard tires though.
Either way this is the internet and you never saw my shredded sinlgeply tires....
Where do you ride? What bike were these single plys on?
I just want to give the single plys a shot for AM. Ill keep the DH tires for resorts and shuttles.
Im not calling BS. Ive seen single plys last 1 ride to a full season. It depends on the rider and the terrain. I completely believe you but there are a lot of factors involved. Fill me/us in.
Kanter if they are anything like kendas sidewalls on singleply which is what im led to believe avoid them like the plague. I dont run Kendas anymore and the single plys i wouldnt run on a XC bike. Had really great luck with them then I started blowing them up ripping out sidewalls and literally destroying them in 1-2 rides tops... If they have a UST version Id opt for that being as itll be lighter than DH casings and have a little thicker sidewalls! Just a thought!!!
Let me go into more detail. Everyone knows I run my Socom for my do all bike. It currently weighs 37-38 with 2ply (1200g) Intense tires, thin tubes, and I9s. Id like to get it down for my XC rides. The weight doesnt bother me. Id just like to try to get it a little lighter. I still have my Outlaws with 2ply Minion 2.5/2.7s, standard tubes and the bike weighs 40-41. Most of our uphill around here is granny spinning for a long time then hit the trail and down for a long time. Our trails have everything from roots to jagged big rocks.
I can understand the reason why some run soft up front and hard in the rear for racing, but I have my own idea that has works really well for me. You may find it interesting, you may not, but it's just an idea for you.
Now keep in mind, I don't race. I'm just a weekend warrior in the woods. Okay?
1st, the reasons I buy a tire:
I want a tire to last me. But I also want it to dig in, bend over to the side nobs and bite on soft stuff. Yet I want good stiff uphill bite on hills. Soft pliable rubber bites better, but hard rubber lasts longer. So rather than buy two different rubber compounds, wanting a tire to last me is my only solution that gives me two options. Buying soft compounds does not. Well, that's at least my thinking. See if you agree.
My solution: I buy the stiffest 60d compound. This gives me options the soft tire wont. I run a 60d Maxxis Minion 2.5 only I run different air pressures in the front and rear.
The 60d give me a wire bead, more thread count in the sidewalls and a harder, thicker side wall for less pinch flats and I get more side wall support than a soft compound. This is part of my thinking. Under normal load straight up riding, the sidewalls hold up well, but under the extra pressure of a turn, it bends over a little thus applying the side nobs to the terrain and the nobs are hard rubber compound therefore they dig in and wont bend like the soft rubber compound thus giving me a better bite. The harder 60d compound gives me the hard stiffness, yet the low air pressure I use forces my tire to flex over on the sides and apply the nobs earlier, like a soft rubber compound tire yet the nobs are not soft allowing flex, they are hard, thus grabbing the soft stuff providing better bite, yet the side walls are flexible enough to allow the nobs to flex with the harder stuff in a turn. On the rear I run more air pressure but I still let my rear tire sag a bit to allow me good bite uphill in the hard, soft, wet or muddy stuff, via the hard nobs and via the stiffness of the sidewalls providing support to the hard nobs yet flexible to bend under the air pressure I run.
My feeling is you can't harden up a soft rubber compound into being stiff, but you can soften up a hard rubber compound into acting like a soft tire by lowering the pressure. No matter how much air you put in, a soft rubber tire and nob is going to flex too much where as a hard rubber compound you can soften with less air and get the best of both worlds.
It's the military Hummer principle. Hardest tire, but in sand, simply drop the air pressure and keep on trudging forward.
I run mine at slight sag with me sitting on it, front side wall about 25% sag, and when I bounce up and down riding on it at about 40% sag. Rear tire I run it about 15% and it sinks about 30% when I jump up and down on it. Low air give me flexibility to the terrain, 60d sidewalls gives me more support under lower pressure, and 60d give me harder nobs providing more bite.
Works for me, might work for you.
Now keep in mind, I don't race. I'm just a weekend warrior in the woods. Okay?
1st, the reasons I buy a tire:
I want a tire to last me. But I also want it to dig in, bend over to the side nobs and bite on soft stuff. Yet I want good stiff uphill bite on hills. Soft pliable rubber bites better, but hard rubber lasts longer. So rather than buy two different rubber compounds, wanting a tire to last me is my only solution that gives me two options. Buying soft compounds does not. Well, that's at least my thinking. See if you agree.
My solution: I buy the stiffest 60d compound. This gives me options the soft tire wont. I run a 60d Maxxis Minion 2.5 only I run different air pressures in the front and rear.
The 60d give me a wire bead, more thread count in the sidewalls and a harder, thicker side wall for less pinch flats and I get more side wall support than a soft compound. This is part of my thinking. Under normal load straight up riding, the sidewalls hold up well, but under the extra pressure of a turn, it bends over a little thus applying the side nobs to the terrain and the nobs are hard rubber compound therefore they dig in and wont bend like the soft rubber compound thus giving me a better bite. The harder 60d compound gives me the hard stiffness, yet the low air pressure I use forces my tire to flex over on the sides and apply the nobs earlier, like a soft rubber compound tire yet the nobs are not soft allowing flex, they are hard, thus grabbing the soft stuff providing better bite, yet the side walls are flexible enough to allow the nobs to flex with the harder stuff in a turn. On the rear I run more air pressure but I still let my rear tire sag a bit to allow me good bite uphill in the hard, soft, wet or muddy stuff, via the hard nobs and via the stiffness of the sidewalls providing support to the hard nobs yet flexible to bend under the air pressure I run.
My feeling is you can't harden up a soft rubber compound into being stiff, but you can soften up a hard rubber compound into acting like a soft tire by lowering the pressure. No matter how much air you put in, a soft rubber tire and nob is going to flex too much where as a hard rubber compound you can soften with less air and get the best of both worlds.
It's the military Hummer principle. Hardest tire, but in sand, simply drop the air pressure and keep on trudging forward.
I run mine at slight sag with me sitting on it, front side wall about 25% sag, and when I bounce up and down riding on it at about 40% sag. Rear tire I run it about 15% and it sinks about 30% when I jump up and down on it. Low air give me flexibility to the terrain, 60d sidewalls gives me more support under lower pressure, and 60d give me harder nobs providing more bite.
Works for me, might work for you.
The trails here a pretty rocky but the soil is usually kind of soft. I usually run my PSI as low as possible while still having decent pinch flat protection. So that was prob in mid-low 30's with the Maxxis singeply. Bought a few sets of the singleply because i loved the daulply so much and then could have the trail bike (Heckler) set up on the same type tires as the DH bike.
In the end they didn't last for squat....so i ended up going to back the tried-and-true Tioga Factory DH. Have been running the 2.1 since foverver, they are kind of like a mini spike tire. Good sidewall and good rubber for trial riding. The 2.1s weigh 850 and the 2.3 950....would probably be a great tire to run Tubeless. The have a nice protective sidewall......they make a great all-around tires even though they kinda of suck for "real DH". Another bonus is they are cheap and last a good while....the thread wears down at the same rate as the sidewall. The singleply maxxis would have threads showing on the side and tread had tons of life left it in...
Yeah... maybe there is a regional difference. Here in WA, I have had nothing that would amount to a "problem" with single ply on my trail bike. Once last summer I cut a sidewall on the first ride - trying out an Ardent. But other than that...
On my Transition TransAM I am running a 60 2.35 High Roller on the back and a 42 2.35 Minion DHF on the front. Both are single ply, and they are dialed... I love that combo for general trail riding in these conditions. Maybe the super rocky terrain cuts the sidewalls easier... I don't know. I have always worn out the rubber before the sidewalls... dual ply or single ply, freak accident cuts excluded.
I doubt this really works the way you are thinking, as it really just doesn't make any sense.
As for the Hummer tire principle... they've got their reasons for running the tires they do, but look at any competion off-road tire like BFG Krawlers or Maxxis Creepy Crawlers and Trepadors and they are all offered in sticky, low durometer compounds.
You haven't learned to use your delete button have you? Ya know, you don't have to put a whole quote into your post. Well, no point there considering you generalize like you are right. It doesn't make sense because you don't get the concept. But you're entitled to doubt anything you like. It's the USA. First off, companies offering soft compounds wasn't the point or the question. Second off, the comment was directed to the person that started this thread. Not you.
As to the opinion, if you don't get it, call Maxxis and ask the benefit of running a thicker wall durometer tire with lower air pressure. Not all pro racers have the time to run back to the pits and change tires. Dropping the pressure changes the way a tire will perform. I'm not going to explain it here to you. I don't have the time for a slow learner. I wouldn't expect you to understand running different fuel mixes or when to use a carb over fuel injection based on the altitude of where you are racing that weekend.
The thread started doesn't have the money or the want for multiple tire sets. He wants one set that will be the best suited for his apps. My suggestion was to buy a thicker sidewall durometer thread count tire that will have more sidewall support and versatility, and through my experience being on them for ten 13 years or so, (with no pinch flat yet) a benefit running them at a lower pressure so the sturdier wall than the soft compounds would fold over on g force and allow the harder compound nobs to dig in the sides on a turn. The surface area of the tire flattens out like a soft compound tire. You can soften a harder rubber compound tire to act like a soft compound through air pressure. You can not stiffen up a soft compound tire by adding. The rubber will remain soft.
But you said what you need to say, now let the author make his own decision. I don't need your negative hate here.
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You can not.
Soak it amonia it'll soften up! 
Once again, my original comment was to the thread poster. It's obvious you're just here to argue.
Stop being a jackass. Go away. Call Maxxis and get edjucated. Talk to a rep and ask the benefits of running lower air pressure in a higher thread count sidewall/high Durometer tire. Try to learn something
Why do you continue to tie high thread count sidewalls and high durometer rubber together?
wow just wow.
A 60 durometer Maxxis Minion as example has a higher thread count gives more sidewall support and a stronger sidewall which allows me to run less air. It works. My front end never washes out, and while my friends cuss, lose traction, and have to put their foot down, I get incredible climbing stick on my back tire. Look, if you don't want to try it, don't. I really don't care.
Where do you get this from? I was going to abstian from this as it is kind of funny, but it is just too much...
After riding and racing bikes for more than 25 years, I can tell you your idea of less pressure = softer durometer is total B.S. Just take a look around at any gravity racer anywhere in any conditions...the ALL run soft compound tires. Do you really think that every single rider from beginner to Pro, sponsored or paying full price, brand name or blacked out tires, would forego your claimed benefits???
Your TPI claims are not true either on many fronts BTW. All non-XC Maxxix tubed tires (that is what we are talking about here) are 60 TPI whether they are 40, 42, 60 or 3C, single ply or double....period.
The ONLY exceptions are the LUST 2 ply tires that have fewer TPI (27) and the exception series tires (120 tpi) that are exclusively XC tires...and there is no correlation to specific durometer and exception.
One more thing, higher thread count is NOT for "more sidewall support and a stronger sidewall"..higher thread counts (and thinner threads) are used to provide a more supple casing...
After riding and racing bikes for more than 25 years, I can tell you your idea of less pressure = softer durometer is total B.S. Just take a look around at any gravity racer anywhere in any conditions...the ALL run soft compound tires. Do you really think that every single rider from beginner to Pro, sponsored or paying full price, brand name or blacked out tires, would forego your claimed benefits???
Your TPI claims are not true either on many fronts BTW. All non-XC Maxxix tubed tires (that is what we are talking about here) are 60 TPI whether they are 40, 42, 60 or 3C, single ply or double....period.
The ONLY exceptions are the LUST 2 ply tires that have fewer TPI (27) and the exception series tires (120 tpi) that are exclusively XC tires...and there is no correlation to specific durometer and exception.
One more thing, higher thread count is NOT for "more sidewall support and a stronger sidewall"..higher thread counts (and thinner threads) are used to provide a more supple casing...
And if gravity racers aren't convincing enough, look at ANY motorsport with a pneumatic rubber tire. All of the sponsored pros and serious competitors are running low durometer tires for better traction.
Stickiness is great, just great. Stiff sidewalls are also great. Put em together and you have one nice tire.