ya they are light i held one several weeks back they claimed 6lbs and from the scale they are damn close . is that a taper steer or straight ?
Damn that is light. I know hacktastic and I have been yelling at the engineers and sales guys for YEARS about the springs issue. They know damn well it's a serious problem, but continue to do nothing about it.
There's a few production reasons for not having a harder spring, will be interesting to hear feedback on spring rates in the new fork though. It might still happenDamn that is light. I know hacktastic and I have been yelling at the engineers and sales guys for YEARS about the springs issue. They know damn well it's a serious problem, but continue to do nothing about it.
i was quoted close to $300 for a ti spring for my 66 by Alex at Marz is North Van he told me the weight savings is not worth the cost
some people claim the opposite...the stock compression stack is too firm
In what context? I have ridden these forks and set up countless riders from weekend warriors to world cup racers, the overwhelming feedback is the stock fork is too harsh on braking bumps (ie HSC, or the shim stack). If you back the compression adjuster out it dives too much, so a lighter stack means running the LSC mostly closed without getting the harshness.some people claim the opposite...
is your experience with the new 380 or with the old 888?In what context? I have ridden these forks and set up countless riders from weekend warriors to world cup racers, the overwhelming feedback is the stock fork is too harsh on braking bumps (ie HSC, or the shim stack). If you back the compression adjuster out it dives too much, so a lighter stack means running the LSC mostly closed without getting the harshness.
If you are running too soft a spring of course it is going to feel like you don't get enough damping even with the adjuster closed, but the problem is fixed with more spring rate, not damping.
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, have you by chance tried the additional oil in the spring side method? In my experience anyway, its a great performing fork with fairly light comp and VAR damping. I fully understand the innate desire to have the perfect spring rate, but I honestly cannot find much to fault with my current set up (5.5 spring, 200 ml oil in spring side, 180 rider).In what context? I have ridden these forks and set up countless riders from weekend warriors to world cup racers, the overwhelming feedback is the stock fork is too harsh on braking bumps (ie HSC, or the shim stack). If you back the compression adjuster out it dives too much, so a lighter stack means running the LSC mostly closed without getting the harshness.
If you are running too soft a spring of course it is going to feel like you don't get enough damping even with the adjuster closed, but the problem is fixed with more spring rate, not damping.
Sorry but the MOAR SHIMZ mindset isn't quite right, you want the minimum amount of damping to control unnecessary weight shifting but too much and you lose traction or soak up energy. The spring is what does the bulk of the work in a suspension unit so if it isn't right then you are just going to waste energy and the bike will get bogged down when the trail gets proper rough
40 pounds is light for a bombproof build for a 225lb guybut if I took that attitude on all my parts, my V10 would weigh 40lbs.
Thank you thank youI think Gemini's solution is the most practical I've heard,
Nah, they know damn well what the weight distribution of their riders is. They know how many forks they've sold, and how many of each spring they've sold. They'd just have to factor in a reasonable estimate for how many heavy guys have been running stock springs that were too stupid/cheap to move up a rate or 2. Which is probably significant. They've been selling 888's for years. If they haven't generated and saved that kind of sales/market data, they suck at life.except for balancing the pre-packaged fork/spring rates with actual demand #s.
40 pounds is light for a bombproof build for a 225lb guy
Thank you thank you
Nah, they know damn well what the weight distribution of their riders is. They know how many forks they've sold, and how many of each spring they've sold. They'd just have to factor in a reasonable estimate for how many heavy guys have been running stock springs that were too stupid/cheap to move up a rate or 2. Which is probably significant. They've been selling 888's for years. If they haven't generated and saved that kind of sales/market data, they suck at life.
I use at least 150cc in the spring side but I don't think it would make much difference until it was up past 350cc, and even then only at the very end of stroke, which the damper leg already gives more than enough progression.At the risk of sounding like a broken record, have you by chance tried the additional oil in the spring side method? In my experience anyway, its a great performing fork with fairly light comp and VAR damping. I fully understand the innate desire to have the perfect spring rate, but I honestly cannot find much to fault with my current set up (5.5 spring, 200 ml oil in spring side, 180 rider).
In my experience all the steel and Ti 2008+ 888 springs are interchangeable, tapered, straight stanchions, all the same. I bet the 380's fall into that category too.The 380 comes with 60cc per leg. The spring is interchangeable with '12-'13 888 Ti forks. Anyone know if there are any other forks that can use this spring? I'd like to sell my 5.5, but chances of that seem pretty dismal.
read: http://translate.google.de/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&u=http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/showthread.php?t=561881In what context? I have ridden these forks and set up countless riders from weekend warriors to world cup racers, the overwhelming feedback is the stock fork is too harsh on braking bumps (ie HSC, or the shim stack). If you back the compression adjuster out it dives too much, so a lighter stack means running the LSC mostly closed without getting the harshness.
If you are running too soft a spring of course it is going to feel like you don't get enough damping even with the adjuster closed, but the problem is fixed with more spring rate, not damping.
Sorry but the MOAR SHIMZ mindset isn't quite right, you want the minimum amount of damping to control unnecessary weight shifting but too much and you lose traction or soak up energy. The spring is what does the bulk of the work in a suspension unit so if it isn't right then you are just going to waste energy and the bike will get bogged down when the trail gets proper rough
FWIW, there are several monkeys who have used the oil in spring side trick to great effect from what I've read, and they're nowhere *near* 350 ml. I think Ih8rice used 250 ml and OGripper used 220 ml, and they're both bigger guys. With the OEM spring and oil height, the fork was super divey and I could bottom it pretty regularly, REGARDLESS of what I did with the VAR and comp adjustment (i.e. all the way in). With the added oil and about 6 clicks of comp and a click or 2 of VAR, it sags correctly, soaks up hand obliterating chatter, and rarely, rarely bottoms out (and never harshly). 6.5 sping, no comp, no VAR, no preload and it was laughably harsh and uncontrolled. With comp and VAR, it was essentially a heavy rigid fork. I'd love to use the 6.5 spring, but I'm not terribly inclined to take apart the shim stack in order to make it perform correctly. That said, if I drank enough sh!tty bourbon one evening and decided to give it a go, is there a video guide and what's the recommended shim stack diameters?I use at least 150cc in the spring side but I don't think it would make much difference until it was up past 350cc, and even then only at the very end of stroke, which the damper leg already gives more than enough progression.
If people are happy with what they currently have then that's greatbut I suggest at least trying some different shim settings, at least just to get a better feel for which changes effect what on the trail
I dumped a bunch in my spring leg, brought it up to about 300; too progressive and spikey spring, knocked i back down to about 150 total and its still plush, but a touch more progressive and less occasional clangs off deep hits.FWIW, there are several monkeys who have used the oil in spring side trick to great effect from what I've read, and they're nowhere *near* 350 ml. I think Ih8rice used 250 ml and OGripper used 220 ml, and they're both bigger guys. With the OEM spring and oil height, the fork was super divey and I could bottom it pretty regularly, REGARDLESS of what I did with the VAR and comp adjustment (i.e. all the way in). With the added oil and about 6 clicks of comp and a click or 2 of VAR, it sags correctly, soaks up hand obliterating chatter, and rarely, rarely bottoms out (and never harshly). 6.5 sping, no comp, no VAR, no preload and it was laughably harsh and uncontrolled. With comp and VAR, it was essentially a heavy rigid fork. I'd love to use the 6.5 spring, but I'm not terribly inclined to take apart the shim stack in order to make it perform correctly. That said, if I drank enough sh!tty bourbon one evening and decided to give it a go, is there a video guide and what's the recommended shim stack diameters?
Sounds to me like the VA piston was blown if you had no progression before. Also the spring leg has an alloy cup in the bottom of the leg that oil has to flow through if you fill it up over about 160ml. You basically turn it in to a ported damper.FWIW, there are several monkeys who have used the oil in spring side trick to great effect from what I've read, and they're nowhere *near* 350 ml. I think Ih8rice used 250 ml and OGripper used 220 ml, and they're both bigger guys. With the OEM spring and oil height, the fork was super divey and I could bottom it pretty regularly, REGARDLESS of what I did with the VAR and comp adjustment (i.e. all the way in). With the added oil and about 6 clicks of comp and a click or 2 of VAR, it sags correctly, soaks up hand obliterating chatter, and rarely, rarely bottoms out (and never harshly). 6.5 sping, no comp, no VAR, no preload and it was laughably harsh and uncontrolled. With comp and VAR, it was essentially a heavy rigid fork. I'd love to use the 6.5 spring, but I'm not terribly inclined to take apart the shim stack in order to make it perform correctly. That said, if I drank enough sh!tty bourbon one evening and decided to give it a go, is there a video guide and what's the recommended shim stack diameters?
Stay on topic, this is a 888 tuning thread, not a 380 threadThere isn't much I haven't explored in the 888, so I'm keen to see how the 380 compares