[Huck Banzai]

I am working on a project to strip and clear coat my 888 lowers. I understand that they are, for the most part, magnesium - and I am told that despite the clear coat, I may need to treat them with anti-corrosive before sealing/painting or I may see some unexpected results.

Can anyone comment? I have stripped the lowers and cleaned them, and used a scotch bright pad to get them to the right texture (I am looking for a brushed look to match my V10c rear triangle, NOT a polish/shine)

I have since sprayed a test patch with Rustoleum painters touch (ultra cover 2x Clear Gloss, anti-yellowing, UV resistant, blaaaa) a few hours ago, and it currently looks amazing.



I KNOW someone knows (and there could be a few opinions too............................)

 

[Sghost]

You need it. If you don't they will corrode and be less safe, but more importantly will turn your nice finish job to ****.

 

[Lelandjt]

A clear coat should do the trick. If air can't get to the mag then no corrosion.

 

[46chief]

Thought I would google this for the fun of it, found a thread on Pinkbike that contained so much false information the thread should be nuked.

If you want to strip them and paint them you need to apply a non etching epoxy primer paint asap.

We dip all our mag parts in a muriatic acid and ??? chemical bath that we call anodize, it's a conversion coating and it comes out a gold/brown color. but it is different than the electro chemical process done to make ai bike parts pretty.

Google around and possibly call marz tech they will give you good info.

 

[jonKranked]

toss them in a bonfire

 

[mtg]

Thought I would google this for the fun of it, found a thread on Pinkbike that contained so much false information the thread should be nuked.

If you want to strip them and paint them you need to apply a non etching epoxy primer paint asap.

We dip all our mag parts in a muriatic acid and ??? chemical bath that we call anodize, it's a conversion coating and it comes out a gold/brown color. but it is different than the electro chemical process done to make ai bike parts pretty.

Google around and possibly call marz tech they will give you good info.

It sounds like you are referring to a process called alodine, or chromate conversion coating. Ive seen it used often on aluminum airplane parts.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromate_conversion_coating

 

[xy9ine]

You need it. If you don't they will corrode and be less safe, but more importantly will turn your nice finish job to ****.

uncoated mag just develops a dull grey oxide layer, but aren't structurally compromised. i stripped & polished some boxxers a couple years ago. they look pretty when fresh, but take some work to maintain a bright finish. these days of laziness i just occasionally wet buff them with fine steel wool to maintain a nice burnished finish. clear finishes on raw metal always seem to have crap durability.

 

[ocelot]

You will need to heat treat the surface first. The simplest way would be a with a blowtorch.

 

[dilzy]

Muriatic Acid is another name for Hydrochloric or HCL acid.

 

[Westy]

toss them in a bonfire

I did that with my old manipoo mach 5. The highly alloyed magnesium wasn't as cool as I hoped it would be.

 

[IH8Rice]

I did that with my old manipoo mach 5. The highly alloyed magnesium wasn't as cool as I hoped it would be.

did you pee on it? that helps

 

[Westy]

did you pee on it? that helps

Poured some PBR on it, close enough.

 

[descente]

vw engine blocks and 4x4 transfer cases work much better...

 

[Huck Banzai]

Here we are 96.348% completed with the stripping and brushing. A couple of nooks need cleaning, and some of the shaping needs to be detailed by brushing to blend in better. (In case it wasnt clear, I am not trying to make it mirror/polished' , but brushed to match my V10c swingarm.) It looks GREAT in person, and I did a test coat/seal early yesterday and it stuck and looked awesome!!

 

[HardtailHack]

vw engine blocks and 4x4 transfer cases work much better...

Was going to say that, I tried to set my old Manitou Blacks lowers on fire with an oxy but they refused to light, couple of small sparkles but that was it. I even filed a nice dust and tried lighting that but nothing, guess there is too much aluminium in the lowers to let them light up.

 

[Huck Banzai]

Stick em in a decent fire and wait!! Also, like 'Rice said, pee on it from time to time; its very satisfying (just dont get too close).

 

[Sonic Reducer]

I use a product called penetrol on bare steel stuff sometimes, that might soak in a little better than the clear and be easier to refinish. I think it is also known as shark coat. also crystal clear paste wax might keep corrosion down for a little while. personally I would rather have a finish that required some maintenance with scotchbrite and more coating product than to have to strip clearcoat again to reapply. also keep in mind anything out of a spray can is not going to have any hardeners in it and will begin to look like **** fairly quickly.