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Fox 40 maintenance question

nowlan

Monkey
Jul 30, 2008
496
2
Im a long time Boxxer user, recently switched over to Fox. I knew every in and out on maintaining my boxxer and keeping it running smooth.
I picked up a new DH bike with a 40 on it that had been stored for a few months with no use. Right off the bat I knew it was underperforming and did an oil change on it. Didnt seem to change the feel much.
I sent it away for a service to OGC and I got a pretty hefty bill, needed new bushings and seals etc etc. Im pretty sure I could have tackled it on my own but whats done is done and I know have a good working 40.
My Question here is. What exactly can I do on this to keep it running smooth through the season and irradicate any further wear and tear issues that can be avoided.
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
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keep the "seals" aka dust wipers lubricated. this has to be done regularly ("regularly" depends on how oftern you ride. when i was downhilling every weekend, i was doing it twice a month). i use slick honey, as do a lot of other people. instructions can be found in the service section of fox's website. it's only about a 5 minute job.
 

nowlan

Monkey
Jul 30, 2008
496
2
keep the "seals" aka dust wipers lubricated. this has to be done regularly ("regularly" depends on how oftern you ride. when i was downhilling every weekend, i was doing it twice a month). i use slick honey, as do a lot of other people. instructions can be found in the service section of fox's website. it's only about a 5 minute job.
Does it require removing the stanchions? Or just applying a coat around the top of the seal and cycling the suspension?
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
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Does it require removing the stanchions? Or just applying a coat around the top of the seal and cycling the suspension?
no, you don't have to remove the stanchions. check out the walk through on the service site. there are small slots in the bottom edge of the seals, you can pry them up that way (be careful not to scratch the stanchions), pack them with slick honey, then slide them back into place.
 

yd35

Monkey
Oct 28, 2008
741
61
NY
no, you don't have to remove the stanchions. check out the walk through on the service site. there are small slots in the bottom edge of the seals, you can pry them up that way (be careful not to scratch the stanchions), pack them with slick honey, then slide them back into place.
I just make sure the foam ring is soaked in Fox Float fluid. Does it make a huge difference packing slick honey up in there too?

To the OP, here's a Pinkbike tutorial on how to clean and lube the seals. If you scroll to the comments someone posted the link to the Fox tutorial:

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Clean-and-Lubricate-Your-Fox-F32-Dust-Wiper-Seals.html
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
On the latest setup (SKF seals, Green oil) Fox recommend you don't use other products. Just soak the foam ring and the inside of the seal in the oil and you're good to go. I've used both float fluid and slick honey in the past but found this the best.

Keep in mind that new bushings can take a while to break in too.
 
no, you don't have to remove the stanchions. check out the walk through on the service site. there are small slots in the bottom edge of the seals, you can pry them up that way (be careful not to scratch the stanchions), pack them with slick honey, then slide them back into place.

Don't try to pry the new SKF seals out with the stancion still inside. They are tighter than the old NOK ones and you will really really struggle to get them out and back in again.
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
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Don't try to pry the new SKF seals out with the stancion still inside. They are tighter than the old NOK ones and you will really really struggle to get them out and back in again.
good to know. my 40 is older, but i'm also running enduro seals. I was assuming that the OP has a 40 with the older style "seals".

Do the SKF seals require less frequent maintenance?
 
I would pry those enduro seals out and chuck them in the bin. They are too hard and can wear the stanchions. Get a set of the new SKF ones.

I can't comment from direct experience, but it has been alleged that the SKF ones last longer. They certainly work better.
 

Jeremy R

<b>x</b>
Nov 15, 2001
9,698
1,053
behind you with a snap pop
good to know. my 40 is older, but i'm also running enduro seals. I was assuming that the OP has a 40 with the older style "seals".

Do the SKF seals require less frequent maintenance?
I ran my 2012 40 from May to late November last year without touching it. It took a little while to break in, but once it did it felt just as good at the end of the season. Its due now for some new oil in the lowers, but the fork still feels great.
 

englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,581
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La Verne
I rebuilt mine and the inner cart too. It's not too hard there's a full tutorial on the fox site. The seals are cake.... The dampner requires you make or buy special tools. But its not rocket sience.
I don't think its nesissary to pull up the seals and lube it. I do however think its good to keep the scantions clean and the seal tops clean. Store your bike upside down keeps the seals and bushes lubed up. Store it right side up makes for dry foam rings bushings seals and sad faces :(. A good idea is to wipe down the scantions with silicone spray. Dupont sells some nice silicone in an Orange can. It's compatible with your silicone fork oil and every other kind of oil. My mx suspension helper outer reccomends this to keep seals alive. Also its just funny someone's worried about skf seals and non fox products. Of course they say that they want you to buy fox oil which is just some rebranded fork oil.. they sell the skf for moto bikes too doesn't say anything about which oil. Silicone, oil oil, auto trans fluid (whats in my forks outer chamber and in all of my friends motorcrossers suspension front and rear. shh don't trell anyone they will talk smack about atf)