any mechanics in the house, got a ? for ya
- Thread starter nauc
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It will be fine for some time. Just keep some greases in there. The most that will happen is you steering will get a little creaky. Not a terribly expensive replacement though.
That'd be a tie rod end boot, pretty easy to replace especially on 90's Hondas. You do need a special tool but you can usually rent them from Pep Boys for free. Looks like this
yep, very easy replacement. there is another tool that works in a similar fashion but looks like a tuning fork. it can be used with a air chisel or using a hammer to separate the tie rod.That'd be a tie rod end boot, pretty easy to replace especially on 90's Hondas. You do need a special tool but you can usually rent them from Pep Boys for free. Looks like this
it is one of the easier repairs you can do yourself....if you know how to turn a wrench that is
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That is called a pickle fork. One small tip...when replacing something like this always count the threads( turns) as you back the old one off. Install the new one the same amount of turns and you will be right in the ballpark as far as alignment.
thats it. i never remember the name
After looking at the picture a little closer I see that that is not a replaceable end and that it is an integral part of the rack and pinion. Disregard all of my thread counting B.S....But get some new dust boots on there asap...you don't want to have to replace the whole rack because of a bad boot.
Man, I cant remember the last time I used a pickle fork for a tie rod. A slight tap with a ball peen on the side there on the part the "special tool" is mounted to.....
As far as the boot itself, they are cheap. Good to replace them when they are cracked.
As far as the boot itself, they are cheap. Good to replace them when they are cracked.
If only I could find a mechanic to help get the driver side door roller pin out for me, I'd be happy. I got all the parts to replace it and the bushings in my door, but no clue how to remove that little bugger.
Please don't take this as a personal attack, but why should a mechanic "help" you do that? (Of course, this assumes that by "help" you meant "do it for me as a favor...") If it is an important task and you do not have the know-how to perform it, why should someone else do it for you for free? The person with the know-how invested his time and/or money to acquire the know-how and should not be expected to give it away...
Again, not a personal attack, but I wanted to comment on something that I see everyday in the US.
As in me saying "Hi, what's the trick to getting this out? As in "What tool do I use to pop this out?". Or as in "How much do you charge to pop this out?"
Never said I wanted a free fluff. I'd pay. Just want to know how to go about it myself and if it's something I can't do, then charge me.
What kind of car?
Perhaps a roll-pin is a bad example, but your situation is exactly my point. The mechanic has a piece of knowledge that you do not. In this case that knowledge is how to remove a roll pin. If the knowledge was trivial and easily obtained, then you would already have it and not need to ask for it. Thus, the knowledge itself -not just the task- has intrinsic value. By requesting this knowledge without payment, you are asking for someone to give you something of value for free.As in me saying "Hi, what's the trick to getting this out? As in "What tool do I use to pop this out?". Or as in "How much do you charge to pop this out?"
Never said I wanted a free fluff. I'd pay. Just want to know how to go about it myself and if it's something I can't do, then charge me.
Again, this example (roll pin on a door) is probably not the best. I am (extremely?) sensitive to this situation, because we charge $150/hr to help customers with technical measurement issues (essentially answering technical questions). Occasionally, a customer will ask why we are billing them when all we did was answer a simple question. Unfortunately, I cannot answer, "Well, if it was such a simple question, why don't you answer it yourself?" As much as I wish I could answer that way, it wouldn't be great for business.
Anyway, not sure where I am going with this... just pointing out how the guy on the other side of the counter might see it.
In answer to your question, it might be worth while to invest in the factory service manual. Especially if there is the possibility of doing any work on the car in the future.
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Counting turns..... great advice
Which part are you listing as integral to the rack? The iner bellows, the inner tie rod, outer tie rod, and outer tie rod boot are all replacable by themselves...
I will guess GM, as that is what I see with wornout door pins and bushings the most.
Youll need, a door spring compressor<cheap> a door pin bushing tool<cheap>, a small jack, a small 2x4, a friend, small hammer<ball peen> and about a half hour if you take your time.....
Really easy, support the door with your jack and 2x4, have a friend keep it in line, , tap out the pin, comes out pretty easy actually, add a small chisel to the list sometimes the bushings dont like to come out. Install the new bushings, install new pin....... Life is good.
Installers tip.... remove one at a time, if you remove both lower and upper together life will suck
Not to derail but I understand where you're coming from.
I've been a bike mechanic for over 4 years and I pride myself on being a very good one. I have definitely learned more than a few tricks over the years most of which come with praise from satisfied customers. My claim to fame would be that I can change a flat (under optimal conditions) in 60-90 seconds. One would think this would make customers happy, wrong. I once changed a flat on a flat on a child's bike in about a minute, when I got to the register I charged the Mother 5 dollars for the tube and 5 dollars for labor. She was pissed that I charged her for labor. "I paid 5 dollars for a minute of your time?!?" I responded with "No, you paid 5 dollars for my expertise, I can take longer next time if you'd like." It was the first time I had encountered a customer that was actually pissed I did something quickly.
I was out on assignment 3 months ago to do a diagnostic on a transmitter. When I got there, I found and solved the problem in about 30 minutes. I contacted my supervisor and he told me to wait 30 more minutes before bringing it online. I wondered why he told me to wait the entire way back to the office.
Upon asking my supervisor he directed me to the owner, where it was explained to me that customers want to know they get their money's worth. Most of the time customers either need to physically see the damaged part or see you with your arms wrapped around a wire loom for a few hours in order to feel that they're not getting cheated and/or over charged.
Upon asking my supervisor he directed me to the owner, where it was explained to me that customers want to know they get their money's worth. Most of the time customers either need to physically see the damaged part or see you with your arms wrapped around a wire loom for a few hours in order to feel that they're not getting cheated and/or over charged.
Actually have read up on how to do the hinge pins and bushings, but I'm stuck on the "detent roller pin". 97 blazer.
Found all that info online and detailed instructions if I were a body shop.
But then I stumbled on an old Camaro forum that has the exact same setup and good pics earlier today:
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186475
He said he heated it to get it to pop out with just pliers. I'll try that next. I don't have a torch at the house though, so bringing the heat may be an issue.
factory service manual doesn't discuss this part unfortunately.
The only guy who has pics of how to do it "the hard way" are here:
http://www.bodyshopzone.com/archives/mechanical/door/hinge_roller/GM_hinge_roller_replace.html
But, as stated in the post above this, I'm gonna try a more basic approach first.
I used the kit from this guy to fix my brother in law's 90 Z28. Super easy and super fast especially with that stupid lagged upper hinge pin.
http://andyz28.com/catalog.htm
http://andyz28.com/catalog.htm
I totally understand why the owner does that, but the fact that he needs to do so is a big part of what is wrong with this country / the world / humans... nice derail guys.
Ah I gotcha......... Yeah heat works great for those, unless you end up like mine and have the end of it actually snapp off.... Then your just ****ed.Actually have read up on how to do the hinge pins and bushings, but I'm stuck on the "detent roller pin". 97 blazer.
Found all that info online and detailed instructions if I were a body shop.
But then I stumbled on an old Camaro forum that has the exact same setup and good pics earlier today:
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186475
He said he heated it to get it to pop out with just pliers. I'll try that next. I don't have a torch at the house though, so bringing the heat may be an issue.
I understand that WAY to well. You have my side were I fix a car being charged 2 grand, and I am done in a couple hours.... they want to know why. I have to go in and explain that my experience, my tools, and my drive to do a good job is all what is covered in the cost.
Anyone feels its wrong to still charge five hours on a job that listed out at five hours that ended up only taking three......... Well they can buy the special tools for me that make it go faster. I didnt buy the special tools to make the job faster for the customer, I bought them so I can make more money.
suggestion on a ghetto heat source other than the charcoal starter in the kitchen drawer?
Oh, and derailment is in the rules of the Lounge. Only the Random Picture Thread, GIF and YouTube threads are exempt.
Easy easy easy easy easy stuff!!
I still wish I actually took my ASE test years ago when I could have....
I still wish I actually took my ASE test years ago when I could have....
Propane torch........ Might try a crack torch, usually can be had for cheap at your lcoal gas station.suggestion on a ghetto heat source other than the charcoal starter in the kitchen drawer?
Oh, and derailment is in the rules of the Lounge. Only the Random Picture Thread, GIF and YouTube threads are exempt.
Its never too late...... I have to renew four this fall as it is.
Butch I thought I told you via email how to get that sucker out. I even read through those write ups that you sent me and responded. You haven't fixed that thing yet?
I seem to recall that all that was involved was cutting the top off the pin, removing it and slapping the new one in. Or are we talking about something different now?
I seem to recall that all that was involved was cutting the top off the pin, removing it and slapping the new one in. Or are we talking about something different now?
This is the detent roller. Gotta install it as I install the hinge pins. It controls the 2 notches the door pops into as you open or close it. This body shop reccomends this in depth procedure:
http://www.bodyshopzone.com/archives/mechanical/door/hinge_roller/GM_hinge_roller_replace.html
But all I really need to do is pop this little guy out:
But like I said, this guy http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186475 just heated it and pulled it out, so off to Home Depot I go. Butch + flame = Heyyyyyyyyy