user error?SRAM stuff is cheap. I have a brand new x-9 derailleur with a bent limit screw. Really? How do you bend a limit screw?
Are you sure its not a fudged up plastic insert that the limit screws into? I've seen that before on one of my rear mechs.SRAM stuff is cheap. I have a brand new x-9 derailleur with a bent limit screw. Really? How do you bend a limit screw?
I'd consider that a feature. Stick or rock grabs derailleur and slams it into the limit screw. Would you prefer to have something not really cheap and easily replaced bend?SRAM stuff is cheap. I have a brand new x-9 derailleur with a bent limit screw. Really? How do you bend a limit screw?
did you go beyond the limit?SRAM stuff is cheap. I have a brand new x-9 derailleur with a bent limit screw. Really? How do you bend a limit screw?
Cuz removing a 26T ring from the low, central, suspended part of your bike and adding a 36T ring to the end of the swingarm will make it better? The reasoning behind these big cassettes is just stupid. Run 2 or 3 chainrings if you need a gear spread and keep your cassette as small and light as possible.I'm getting stoked to try 1x10 with a 36 cog.
Why? 2 rings, each used with half the cassette, results in a better chainline & wider gear spread. The E13 DRS holds the chain as well as single ring guides.1x9 is radder then 2x9.
Cuz removing a 26T ring from the low, central, suspended part of your bike and adding a 36T ring to the end of the swingarm will make it better? The reasoning behind these big cassettes is just stupid. Run 2 or 3 chainrings if you need a gear spread and keep your cassette as small and light as possible.
1x10 for the type trail riding I do will be perfect.Why? 2 rings, each used with half the cassette, results in a better chainline & wider gear spread. The E13 DRS holds the chain as well as single ring guides.
Also the above mentioned placement of weight.
You failed at reading comprehension.LOL
Keeping the added weight difference between a 36t and 26t cog off the end of my swingarm is a weaksauce argument against the bigger spread.
All I can say is... Stop hating it untill you put some miles on it. Its a pretty damn good AM setup actually.You failed at reading comprehension.
It's not the weight difference of a 36 & 26 since you're not removing anything from the cassette, it's the weight of the 36 that you're adding.
Also, you get LESS spread running an 11-36, 38 than an 11-32, 26/38.
The point is that adding big gears to the cassette so that you can remove small ones from the crank is dumb and counter productive. Why the hate for front derailleurs? The only argument I've heard for 10spd is reducing the number of chainrings but without explaining why you'd want to remove chainrings.
You know what else is dumb? Overlapping gear ratios and two completely seperate shifting mechanisms. I'm pretty sure the weight difference of a 26t vs a 36t is less than the weight of a front derailleur. Rear mechs shift faster, more reliably than fronts, and not having to make decisions about which mechanism to use or which equivalent ratio to ride is pretty damn nice.You failed at reading comprehension.
It's not the weight difference of a 36 & 26 since you're not removing anything from the cassette, it's the weight of the 36 that you're adding.
Also, you get LESS spread running an 11-36, 38 than an 11-32, 26/38.
The point is that adding big gears to the cassette so that you can remove small ones from the crank is dumb and counter productive.
Well, that's a great point. I'm sure my suspension will stop working from all of that unsprung weight. But I don't think that you are completely aware of why one would go 1x10. First, I like the idea of simplicity. Second, it's one less thing to go wrong on the bike (front der.) Third, I would be reducing my gear spread slightly, but i think it's worth it for the simplicity and reliability. Fourth, I like how chainguides are generally quieter on the trail. If my bike is clanky from a front derailleur, it makes my ride feel crappy (even if it's all mental). Fifth, I don't think anyone knows for sure (yet) the exact weight gains/losses by doing this setup, but I'm not too worried about that. As far as I know, the high end 10 speeds are at least competitive with high end 9 speeds.Cuz removing a 26T ring from the low, central, suspended part of your bike and adding a 36T ring to the end of the swingarm will make it better? The reasoning behind these big cassettes is just stupid. Run 2 or 3 chainrings if you need a gear spread and keep your cassette as small and light as possible.
Competitive is an understatement. XX is amazingly light compared to XO.As far as I know, the high end 10 speeds are at least competitive with high end 9 speeds.
And finally I want to do this just to make people like you mad
roadies have been using 10speed for years with no problems. granted, they are riding on the road, but they still see more usage than most mtb chainsIs there an issue with the chain strength? Are the 10-speed chains thinner (weaker)?
You're missing the point. No one cares about going fast anymore. It's about being able to climb with one chainring. That's what's rad!12-36 cassette has less range than 11-34 cassette.
Is there an issue with the chain strength? Are the 10-speed chains thinner (weaker)?
Nothing wrong with strength with ten speed, jus tlike there was nothing wrong with strength on nine speed, its the same deal as when we went from 8 to 9 speed... the links are the same, the rollers are a bit narrower, pins are a bit shorter, overall, its just narrower, strength will be the same.roadies have been using 10speed for years with no problems. granted, they are riding on the road, but they still see more usage than most mtb chains