[cheetaprowlerDH]

alright, so as many may know, i have an 07 888 sl and i have been having the typical problems with it mostly with the ATA.... but now i'm getting locked/bottomed out at about 6" into the travel! the fork sags about 4", which is exactly the way i set it, but even with close to no pressure in the PAR chamber, it does this ridiculous ramp-up between 5 and 6 inches...
i've searched everywhere and found that i should remove the PAR chamber, but i never found any directions.... how exactly whould i go about doing this?
i've blown up shocks before while trying to fix them, so im not touching this fix witha 20 foot pole until i have some solid directions...

if i overlooked some thread somewhere, please point me to it... im really, really tired of looking at the dust line on the fork just sitting at 6" through the travel even after the hardest nose first cases and overshoots...



thanks in advance(again):biggrin:

 

[davet]

did you say 4" of sag?

 

[kidwoo]

Remove the PAR and remove the damper side piston. You can run the fork with the par chamber completely empty and see how you like it. If it's good, then take it out.

Search for a thread that I created and there's some good info from other peeps on the PAR removal. The other piston on the damper side is pretty obvious once you pop the top caps and drop the stanchions.

 

[cheetaprowlerDH]

when i'm over the front or near it...
2" when i'm sitting on the seat...

just feels right to me... but i also cant run less sag/pressure because otherwise the fork is way too stiff and bottoms at 5"...

and thanks kidwoo, i'll check it out for sure...

 

[davet]

http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172002&highlight=removing+par

there's a few pages to go through, but it's explained in there.

 

[cheetaprowlerDH]

ok, that thread is just what i needed... thank you very much!

now i'm gonna just have to find the time, place, and guts to do all that to my fork... but i can tell that it will do wonders!

thank you guys once again!

 

[cheetaprowlerDH]

actually i have a question for Kidwoo...

i read in that thread that you compressed the fork while holding open the PAR vavle and you lost oil... the oil down there is what seems to be causing my problem. could this be a possible quick, relatively effective fix for the fork? was it just smoother or did it also noticeably affect the ramp up?

 

[kidwoo]

I don't remember the post specifically but once your PAR piston is out, you've basically got just one big air spring chamber just like every other air fork. There's a little oil in there stock just to lube things. I actually put more oil in mine because running it at 7" gave me the opposite problem. I kept bottoming it.

But once your PAR piston is out, you have two schrader valves that go to the same chamber. The one on the bottom will spit out whatever is sitting in the bottom of the air chamber because you know......gravity and stuff. Just turn your bike upside down if you want to play with that valve. Or just use the one on top.

 

[cheetaprowlerDH]

ok i see, you didnt have the par piston in there when you did it...

k, well i'll keep all that in mind and hopefully get this shiat solved soon!
its kinda interesting riding a 9" travel bike with a 6" travel fork:biggrin: and i'm getting tired of it

thanks again

 

[RideRMB]

Kidwoo Ive got a question. Not even closely related though. The Magik Sheen, tell me how to make it happen man. Im dying to know.

 

[kidwoo]

 

[JRogers]

I give a thumbs up to the PAR removal. I have a 66 SL ATA, but it's the same deal. I removed it at the start of the season and it simplifies tuning and feels better and smoother. I cut down the bottom out bumper a bit too and get more travel. The directions are easy once you get it apart.

 

[DirtyMike]

Dont know if this will help, but maybe it will. I run an 07 66, and rode it for awhile. thought it was great..... When it came time to rebuild it, I found that I wasnt getting full travel, I was only getting about 6 in instead of 7 its suppsed to have, ..... Why? It had too much oil in it from the factory. Fixed it, and I didnt realize it was a problem to begin with

 

[gonefirefightin]

get a 40 and quit messing around

 

[kidwoo]

get a 40 and quit messing around

So that I can then change my seals every five minutes when they leak after two rides, bottom the fork so much that I end up running a spring that's too stiff, realize that there's a very limited range of adjustments with spring selection and a crappy high speed compression circuit that doesn't do its job?


Sure! I'll get right on that!

 

[gonefirefightin]

wow, must have hit a nerve,


see you at north star

 

[kidwoo]

wow, must have hit a nerve,


see you at north star

Not a nerve at all. It's just that you listed one of the forks that people have just as many problems with as if that would solve all 'working on your fork' problems. So I though it was kind of funny.

If fox would make an air, dc dh fork, I'd be all over it. Their air stuff is dialed.

Gotta work a bit to get the zoke air stuff dialed but it's pretty simple and you get a fork that's almost as light as an air boxxer but way stiffer.

 

[Kanye West]

If fox would make an air, dc dh fork, I'd be all over it. Their air stuff is dialed.

Gotta work a bit to get the zoke air stuff dialed but it's pretty simple and you get a fork that's almost as light as an air boxxer but way stiffer.

Both quoted for truth.

Oh you forgot the lack of an integrated stem option up until this year, wafer thin lowers, closed cartridge damper that blows up and is non-repairable by the consumer, ridiculous price, the bottom out resistance that they claim to have year after year, and the crazy weird spring noises/friction.

 

[gonefirefightin]

just choice i guess,

I am running the split springs from go ride and an 08 moto cartridge and have great performance

 

[cheetaprowlerDH]

if i were to blow 1800 on a fork, i would still buy a Zokie unless i could find a BOS for as much...

when i first got the fork i was extremely happy with it, it felt just amazing, but over time it crapped out... and either way, Sully sent it down to me used already and we were both aware that it needed a rebuild.

i like the air setup for sure, it is so light and adjustable and paired with the oil and spring in the other leg, the fork is everything i dreamed of and more! but unfortunatley the PAR chamber just has its problems, yet FORTUNATLEY they are reversible and modifiable...


and either way, buying a 40 would cost me more than what i paid for my whole bike!:biggrin:
i still cant beleive i'm actually riding a Rotec!

i'm gonna attempt to do the fix today if FactoryCostcoDH will bring me a shock pump...
hopefully i dont blow something up like i did to my vanillaRC so long ago!.... now that was a high speed piston!

 

[cheetaprowlerDH]

well i gave it two shots today and both times the nut on the foot of the leg would not budge... i tried everything, followed the directions exactly, but the SOB would not budge... it rotates and tightens, but wont come off... i've tapped the par valve, and then got pissed and f-in hammered it, but to no avail...

so basically i'm stuck with this oil-less fork, a hammered up PAR chamber valve and a bunch of small parts from the ATA area laying around that i'm too pissed to put back on... and cant remember why i took them off in the first place...

is there anything else i can do? i cant get the f*ckin cartridge out of the fork... i've tried every way that i could think of, and yes, i did follow every direction step by step...

 

[Biffff]

I would say the reason why this happenned in the 1st place is that you ran the fork with no pressure in the PAR. ALL The marz info clearly states to not let the PAR pressure fall below the SFA pressure or bad evil things will happen.
You'll be stoked once you get the PAR out. These forks are gold once the PAR is gone and they are set up right.

 

[cheetaprowlerDH]

i bet they are... i can tell that it wants to be
it would just help if i could get the SOB out...

 

[kidwoo]

I would say the reason why this happenned in the 1st place is that you ran the fork with no pressure in the PAR. ALL The marz info clearly states to not let the PAR pressure fall below the SFA pressure or bad evil things will happen.

Meh


Running it with no air is no different than bottoming the fork with 'proper' pressure in each chamber. I put proper in quotes because if you follow marzocchi's instructions, you end up with a useless piece of aluminum on the front of your bike. They made a good 'custom ready' fork with this one though

 

[cheetaprowlerDH]

so basicallyyyyyy, i'm screwed?

ah, what else is new with my luck...

time to quit biking for a month and buy myself a friggin camera already!
hopefully i wont have to do a CCD removal and tap shutter pivots:biggrin: hopefully my lens will get full extention too

 

[kidwoo]

so basicallyyyyyy, i'm screwed?

ah, what else is new with my luck...

time to quit biking for a month and buy myself a friggin camera already!
hopefully i wont have to do a CCD removal and tap shutter pivots:biggrin: hopefully my lens will get full extention too

You're in socal right?


Bribe hacktastic with some beer to setup your fork.