[fred.r]

What would cause my brakes to feel mushy unless I pressurize the lines over night? If I'm gonna ride the next day and don't do this... I have NO brakes the next day. And by pressurize the line, I'm referring to zip tying the levers to my bars. I've bled these brakes close to 15 times to try and get the issue to go away. Sram even bled them 2 times at different races...
I was talking to the Sram tech at the last race, and explained that the fluid comes out close to black every bleed, and there seems to be small, soft black chunks in it.... all he said was "It's just the magnesium that causes that." Okay... I don't buy it. What's going on with my brakes?

 

[Vena]

My code 5 did the same...bleeded them many times...

switched to formula, no more issues

 

[fred.r]

My code 5 did the same...bleeded them many times...

switched to formula, no more issues

Not an option, sticking with Sram. I may ditch the Code levers for some Ultimates... but that isn't really a solution to my current issue.

 

[socal stinky]

Not an option, sticking with Sram. I may ditch the Code levers for some Ultimates... but that isn't really a solution to my current issue.

That is strange, I have the older ones (not Mg) and have not had any problems so far. Maybe you could try some goodridge lines?

 

[fred.r]

That is strange, I have the older ones (not Mg) and have not had any problems so far. Maybe you could try some goodridge lines?

I don't want to have to buy an after market product to get my brakes to work as they're supposed to.

 

[gemini2k]

just get juicy's codes are overkill anyways. They are super easy to work on, all my pairs (4 bikes?) have been problem free.

 

[toodles]

I had a similar issue with mine until i stripped the lever down, cleaned the piston and glide mechanism and put it all back together. Dunno why but it hasn't reoccured since.

 

[FOXROX]

"pressureizing the lines" does nothing. when you squeeze the lever it closes off the system. so if there is air in the lines it will stay there.

 

[FOXROX]

and this also happened to me. you turned the reach adjuster to far

 

[atrokz]

What would cause my brakes to feel mushy unless I pressurize the lines over night? If I'm gonna ride the next day and don't do this... I have NO brakes the next day. And by pressurize the line, I'm referring to zip tying the levers to my bars. I've bled these brakes close to 15 times to try and get the issue to go away. Sram even bled them 2 times at different races...
I was talking to the Sram tech at the last race, and explained that the fluid comes out close to black every bleed, and there seems to be small, soft black chunks in it.... all he said was "It's just the magnesium that causes that." Okay... I don't buy it. What's going on with my brakes?

It sounds like you have brakes spec'd with the wrong rubber seals. It happens from time to time if quality control isn't paid attention to and the accountants shop for materials and parts (are sram parts made in a factory with an outside quality standards system in place? even ISO?). Send them back and have sram deal with them, because the seals issue has happened with them before. The second possibility is a crap ano layer of mag but you mentioned 'soft' and didn't mention gritty, so I'm sticking with rubber seals.

 

[fred.r]

"pressureizing the lines" does nothing. when you squeeze the lever it closes off the system. so if there is air in the lines it will stay there.

Well what ever I'm doing, it does something. One day, no brakes, after "closing off the system," solid performance. So something does happen, though it's only a temporary fix.

and this also happened to me. you turned the reach adjuster to far

Hmmmm... I was thinking that might have something to do with it. So if this is what causes them to eventually allow lever throw to fall all the way to the bar and still not engage, what is the issue... what causes that? I sometimes run the adjuster all the way out if the course is long enough. But I've never tried forcing the dial any further than aloud.

 

[FOXROX]

there is a little plastic piece that breaks.. you can bring it to your shop it was only like 10 bucks i believe.. and yeah it brings the lever right to the bar! pissed me off for a while lol

 

[TankerX]

another issue 2 of my boys have the squealing noise that does not go away. They tried changing pads, sanding down pads, and of course aligned brakes correctly.

 

[fred.r]

It sounds like you have brakes spec'd with the wrong rubber seals. It happens from time to time if quality control isn't paid attention to and the accountants shop for materials and parts (are sram parts made in a factory with an outside quality standards system in place? even ISO?). Send them back and have sram deal with them, because the seals issue has happened with them before. The second possibility is a crap ano layer of mag but you mentioned 'soft' and didn't mention gritty, so I'm sticking with rubber seals.

Never though about that. I'll get on the horn with Sram tomorrow and see what's up with the seals.

 

[fred.r]

there is a little plastic piece that breaks.. you can bring it to your shop it was only like 10 bucks i believe.. and yeah it brings the lever right to the bar! pissed me off for a while lol

I'm gonna look for an exploded view of the lever assembly. If anyone has one handy please post it.

 

[WestCoastHucker]

I'm gonna look for an exploded view of the lever assembly....

don't you have a picture of your last crash?

 

[Dogboy]

I'm gonna look for an exploded view of the lever assembly. If anyone has one handy please post it.

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/2008 AVID SPC_95-5315-001-000_Web_B.pdf
Page 16.

 

[fred.r]

don't you have a picture of your last crash?

Unforgivable....

 

[fred.r]

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/2008 AVID SPC_95-5315-001-000_Web_B.pdf
Page 16.

Thanks. I'm not seeing what plastic piece would break from over maxing out the pad adjust.

 

[DirtyMike]

Thanks. I'm not seeing what plastic piece would break from over maxing out the pad adjust.

Dont worry about not finding that, that isnt the problem, your looking at a lever rebuild, there is a problem with the seal inside the lever. Whats happening is the seal, when you sip tie it, is expanded into the bore by way or Hydraulic pressure, so your holding everything in place, but without the pressure it allows the seal to fall away from the bore. Put some new internals into the lever, bleed it out, and you will be good to go!!!!!!

 

[davep]

Dont worry about not finding that, that isnt the problem, your looking at a lever rebuild, there is a problem with the seal inside the lever. Whats happening is the seal, when you sip tie it, is expanded into the bore by way or Hydraulic pressure, so your holding everything in place, but without the pressure it allows the seal to fall away from the bore. Put some new internals into the lever, bleed it out, and you will be good to go!!!!!!

Definately my thought as well. Something odd with the master cylinder piston seal. The black soft 'stuff' points to degrading seals as well.

 

[fattirerider]

I'm pretty disapointed with my Codes too. i would like to get some of the new Elixers. Anyone know when they'll be available?

 

[fred.r]

Mother f#ck, f#ck, f#ck!
So I just got a Dura-Ace cassette to drop a few grams.... and blow more money and relatively useless upgrades. So I plan on taking apart my whole drive train to replace the chain, cassette, and front ring in one foul swoop. Well, walking it over to the stand I pull the brake levers just for the hell of it.... sure enough, absolutely ZERO rear brake. So I figure hell, I haven't had a chance to rebuild the lever like suggested, and I'm pulling apart a lot of my bike; I might as well bleed the rear brake while I'm at it. Some how... well I know how... I stripped out that tiny t-bleed bolt. Mother F'er. I am always super careful about bolts, just an awkward angle and it's screwed. So unless I can find a rear brake for the time being, my come back from three week hiatus due to injury will have to be postponed. Well, Deer Valley should be fun... a month off the bike and no training.
I think I'm over these Code levers, gonna put together some Ultimates with Straitline blades like Sicklines.com did... FTW.
(Sorry, had to vent)

 

[fred.r]

FWIW, SRAM will NOT provide warranty service (understandable...) nor any race support (BS if you ask me) if you run the Ultimate levers with the Code calipers. Seems weird since that's the set-up that their top racer runs...
Either way, SRAM is hookin it up with a new rear brake after I send mine in... now I just gotta find a replacement brake for the time being.

 

[DirtyMike]

Fred where you at??? I have a set of Juicy sevens you would be welcome to use

 

[zero knowledge]

... Sram tech ... said ... "It's just the magnesium that causes that."

This reminds me of a conversation I had last year with the head engineer at Formula. Discussing brakes of course, he was surprised at Sram's decision to use magnesium for Codes. He mentioned that they were having problems in the past with B4 SL mag brakes forming micro-bubbles because of the contact magnesium-DOT. So the Sram tech was probably right, the newer mag Codes are just a "breathing" brake.

 

[fred.r]

This reminds me of a conversation I had last year with the head engineer at Formula. Discussing brakes of course, he was surprised at Sram's decision to use magnesium for Codes. He mentioned that they were having problems in the past with B4 SL mag brakes forming micro-bubbles because of the contact magnesium-DOT. So the Sram tech was probably right, the newer mag Codes are just a "breathing" brake.

I'll find out soon enough. The guy I spoke with said it could very well be bad spec'd seals.