I'm in Frederick MD we have a group admin for the area. I'm going to ask them if they've allowed the trails to be posted. They're rated double black so it might be a good thing.
This is what's wrong with The Industry™
- Thread starter Electric_City
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I didn't say that I know everything about what's going on in the province, but I talk to a lot of riders from all over and am constantly reading or researching about different spots, clubs, maps, GIS data, etc etc etc. I don't know everything, but my knowledge of Ontario is well above the general riding population. It also helps that I've also ridden all over the province as well.
Your second point is why regions have admins - they should really be the ones filtering out what people are submitting. Like I mentioned, not everything gets approved and if I read a comment about something that was added being wrong or shouldn't be visible, then I'm all for correcting or removing it. I've hidden many trails or even deleted GPS from others. That said, there are A LOT of clubs and whoever else, that have admin status of regions, but they don't actively use their accounts - thats a probably because obviously things will slip through the cracks if no one is watching the approval queues.
And yeah nothing will beat a map and its nice that in some situations buying one contributes to the local club or whoever. I'm the type of person who generally plans out a ride in advance, so unless its a spaghetti network of trails or something, the phone stays in the pack.
tldr; even as an avid trailforks user, I don't think everything should be added or visible. Keep that private stuff private - loose lips sinks ships. Same thing goes for on the ground - if someone is adding something that's secret to trailforks, they probably shouldn't know about the area in the first place.
Hold on to your bikes and parts, it's gonna be difficult to buy something next year...
One of my riding buddy is the Swedish importer for Yeti and Ibis. 2 weeks ago he told me more or less the same as stated in the article above. He got 3 bikes in his latest delivery which is ridiculously little! And the fun part is that there are still people asking him for a bargain price
That's what is wrong with the people buying from The Industry, but that is clearly another topic!
One of my riding buddy is the Swedish importer for Yeti and Ibis. 2 weeks ago he told me more or less the same as stated in the article above. He got 3 bikes in his latest delivery which is ridiculously little! And the fun part is that there are still people asking him for a bargain price
That's what is wrong with the people buying from The Industry, but that is clearly another topic!
Yeah when we bought my wife's new bike this last weekend the shop said none of the brands are letting them put in orders from customers or even pick the stock they're getting. They said at least Santa Cruz told them what they were getting and more or less when, kind of take it or leave it style. Which is how my wife ended up with the carbon r build of the Juliana Joplin and not the aluminum r.
lol, putting in orders from customers. how about ordering in spring to get stuff next spring. we already put in pre-orders for 2023.
Presta Valves clogged with tubeless tire sealant is something I have considered wrong with the industry. When they clog, I have been pushing an allen wrench through the valve. It doesn't clear the clog well, but usually just enough to get the air in or out to the tire pressure I want. I typically would limp by like this, until I get annoyed enough to take off the tire, and clean out the valve from the inside.
I finally had the idea to use a small drill bit instead of the allen wrench. I just turn it gently by hand while pushing it in, then all at once, it will break through and I get a rush of air through the relief cut in the drill bit. Once this happens, I just pull it out, and it pulls the clog out with it. The drill bit does a great job grabbing onto the clog. Easy peasy, and only takes a couple of minutes.
I put a couple size drill bits in a small bag (for different valves in the family fleet) with my valve core remover so everything is easy to find in the tool box.
I finally had the idea to use a small drill bit instead of the allen wrench. I just turn it gently by hand while pushing it in, then all at once, it will break through and I get a rush of air through the relief cut in the drill bit. Once this happens, I just pull it out, and it pulls the clog out with it. The drill bit does a great job grabbing onto the clog. Easy peasy, and only takes a couple of minutes.
I put a couple size drill bits in a small bag (for different valves in the family fleet) with my valve core remover so everything is easy to find in the tool box.
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Paying attention to the position of the valve core when measuring or adjusting air pressure will in general make this issue disappear.
There, that's the problem. Holdovers from roadie times and now the constriction of presta with tubeless systems, whether it's filling them with air, or getting clogged with sealant, makes it much worse.
Of course! Leave it to SRAM to invent a new Standard Time cuz Mountain Standard Time (MST) wasn't creating enough revenue
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I've been saying this for a while. We need a new valve specifically designed for MTB tubeless. It should work with schrader pumps but flow more air and resist clogging.
It does but since the hole for a schraeder valve is a fair bit bigger than a spoke hole to maintain the same strength additional material is required. For an aluminum rim this either means increasing the cross sectional area of the extrusion which would add a fair bit of weight where it is not needed, or expensive machining operations. Shouldn't be much of a problem with carbon rims as it would be easy to just add material where it was needed but then people would bitch about having two different standards. Most things are possible, everything has a trade-off.
Yep. Seems like once a year at least 2 valve core/stems gets clogged. I've invested in a bag of valve cores for such issues. The stem can be cleaned but the core seems to goop up enough to just replace it.People really have problems with clogged valve stems?
Edit: Just to be clear the core's movement is affected by gooping up. So it doesn't take air in as fast as it used to, or just leaks even though you've screwed it down as hard as you can. You can clean it, but blah.
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It's too hard to search this site, but I remember quite a few years back, one of the old heads was purporting to use aftermarket aluminum "race car" schraeder valves on their bikes partly due to the problem with getting old and/or non-Maxxis tires to seat tubeless on old rims.
I thought it was JM maybe but who knows.
And quite a few dudes used to run schraeder tubes back in the day, and that often required drilling out their presta Mavics and Suns.
I thought it was JM maybe but who knows.
And quite a few dudes used to run schraeder tubes back in the day, and that often required drilling out their presta Mavics and Suns.
tubeless schrader valves have been used in MTB for a long time, just not with a lot of popularity. i believe stans makes/made some and you can probably find every color visible to humans on aliexpress, etc.
drilling presta valves was also common - they still make grommets to insert into the larger hole so you could still run presta if wanted. i've still got a set of mavic rims with the grommets in place in the shop somewhere.
edit - links
Amazon.com : tubeless schrader valve
www.amazon.com
Amazon.com : presta grommet
www.amazon.com
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The cross section of any 30mm aluminum mtb rim can handle it fine. Presta valves were made for deep narrow road bike rims and just popularized out of convenience for manufacturing. Nevermind the fact they take 3 threads to do the job of 1...
this is relevant to my interests for an upcoming wheel build. thanks for sharing.
I've got a set of WTB tubeless Shrader valves sitting around. Really just waiting for a convenient time to have the wheel apart enough to drill it nicely and do new rim tape. Looking forward to just being able to jam an air chuck against the valve to fill up and go ride instead of dicking around with spindles and adapters.
Here's another industry piss off.
Frames whose top tubes and headtubes are designed so the front end doesn't have a prayer of spinning freely in a crash to allow normal shifter/dropper levers to clear the top tube when the front end turns 90 degrees. Result - damaged top tube.
The fuck is the point of running a single crown at that point?
Frames whose top tubes and headtubes are designed so the front end doesn't have a prayer of spinning freely in a crash to allow normal shifter/dropper levers to clear the top tube when the front end turns 90 degrees. Result - damaged top tube.
The fuck is the point of running a single crown at that point?
I have no idea if any of my bikes do this anymore. I just torque my shifter/brakes or whatever mounts to the bars so they will rotate easily in a crash. Will not just prevent damage to your top tube but your levers and any body parts that may encounter them in a crash.
Head tubes on most larger sizes are just too short.
But I'm also of the opinion that if a frame is seriously damaged by a brake lever, then the frame wasn't built to withstand the rigors of actual mountain biking.
But I'm also of the opinion that if a frame is seriously damaged by a brake lever, then the frame wasn't built to withstand the rigors of actual mountain biking.
Disagree. The fact that I can get a longer frame without a 12" headtube these days is one thing right with The Industry. You can add spacers or get a taller bar if too short, but it's pretty tough to cut down a headtube.
12" is quite aways off from a correct bar height at a given reach for someone 6'+.
Head tubes should be size-specific in my opinion, which would help getting the bar height correct without adding a ton of spacers (flex).
I have spacers and a 40mm bar and would rather have a stiffer front end and zero spacers.
Head tubes should be size-specific in my opinion, which would help getting the bar height correct without adding a ton of spacers (flex).
I have spacers and a 40mm bar and would rather have a stiffer front end and zero spacers.
the increasing length headtube with frame size was a carry over from when mountain bikes were road bikes and it was part of sizing/ergonomics
Turn the bars 90 degrees. If the bars don't turn past the top tube, then your bike does it.
On my 2020 Enduro with a 20mm rise bar and a couple spacers under the stem, there's a good inch or so of overlap if the levers were to clear as well. Pretty dumb.
Exacerbated by the super slack HA though I would think.
I just checked all six (size large, mostly enduro-y) bikes in arm's reach at the moment. Zero of them do that, and none have especially high bars.