Yo, I'm trying to gather some general setup info for rebound settings.
Looking for:
What shock you're running?
Rebound clicks from full closed?
Spring rate?
Stroke?
Just curious to see what everyone is running compared to each other.
and leverage ratios and the shock tune they are running and spring rate and rider weight and riding style etc etc. im too lazy to check right now but i will tomorrow and post for the helluvit
Why? It gives you nothing? Setting up the same shock with a highly variable ratio like an evil vs something rather linear like the 2010 gt fury is very different. You also have different rider weight, preferences, riding style, tracks they ride and different setups for different tracks. Then you take different shocks and different damping tunes they use, hell they even have a different amount of clicks so 7 clicks on one shock may be 20% of it's range while on the other it may mean 50%. You could as well ask us what sun lotion do we use and that would probably give you more data than "clicks".
Double Barrel (all settings are from full open)
High Speed Rebound 2.25 Turns
Low Speed Rebound 11 Clicks
High Speed Compression 1.5 Turns
Low Speed Compression 5 Clicks
300lb x 2.5 Spring
Why? It gives you nothing? Setting up the same shock with a highly variable ratio like an evil vs something rather linear like the 2010 gt fury is very different. You also have different rider weight, preferences, riding style, tracks they ride and different setups for different tracks. Then you take different shocks and different damping tunes they use, hell they even have a different amount of clicks so 7 clicks on one shock may be 20% of it's range while on the other it may mean 50%. You could as well ask us what sun lotion do we use and that would probably give you more data than "clicks".
Rock Shox Vivid AirR2C -- but it's at the RS Center being serviced with my Totem Solo Air...
Compression - dunno, could be all taken apart with snap-rings and rubber rings all over the place.
Low Speed Rebound - I may change this
High Speed Rebound - Love it where it's at - love it!
Hey,
Id like to know how many strokes of air you guys pump into your tires.
Here's the problem, some forks have actual high speed and low speed rebound circuits, where you can externally adjust the low-speed, but the high speed is internally set via the shim stack. Some forks do not have this and you are making an all-around adjustment, which causes significant compromises. If you have an actual high speed circuit, then usually you close down the low-speed fairly slow, which keeps the fork well controlled, but it won't pack up on the fast stuff due to the high speed. If you lack this, you tend to run it pretty fast, otherwise it starts feeling pretty bad through the rough choppy terrain, but it also tends to be a little more "wild" and uncontrolled at other speeds or on other terrain.
Another issue is that on forks or shocks that DO have a high-speed rebound circuit, it's usually set very conservatively at the factory, so a 250lb beefcake guy won't blow the shock up by riding in in rough terrain. This can cause people to open up the low-speed circuit again and run it somewhat "fast", trying to make up for the heavier high-speed circuit.
Some forks and shocks that have actual adjustable high speed rebound circuits may be the best of everything, but often these "adjustments" aren't exactly what you'd think and they don't make as much of an adjustment as changing the piston flow or shims, as they are simply preloading the shims via spring tension (what's being adjusted). So some of these are better, but they are not always solving the issue of having the fork/shock valved exactly to your weight and riding style.
It depends on how picky you are, how far off the shock/fork is set up (valved) for your weight, how complex the circuits and adjustments are, and so forth, A fork or shock set up perfectly with the correct circuits doesn't really need any adjusters (compression, rebound, etc), on the other hand, many companies sell these "adjustments" and people think they are getting something that will work well, simply because it has the adjustments.
Here's the problem, some forks have actual high speed and low speed rebound circuits, where you can externally adjust the low-speed, but the high speed is internally set via the shim stack. Some forks do not have this and you are making an all-around adjustment, which causes significant compromises. If you have an actual high speed circuit, then usually you close down the low-speed fairly slow, which keeps the fork well controlled, but it won't pack up on the fast stuff due to the high speed. If you lack this, you tend to run it pretty fast, otherwise it starts feeling pretty bad through the rough choppy terrain, but it also tends to be a little more "wild" and uncontrolled at other speeds or on other terrain.
Another issue is that on forks or shocks that DO have a high-speed rebound circuit, it's usually set very conservatively at the factory, so a 250lb beefcake guy won't blow the shock up by riding in in rough terrain. This can cause people to open up the low-speed circuit again and run it somewhat "fast", trying to make up for the heavier high-speed circuit.
Some forks and shocks that have actual adjustable high speed rebound circuits may be the best of everything, but often these "adjustments" aren't exactly what you'd think and they don't make as much of an adjustment as changing the piston flow or shims, as they are simply preloading the shims via spring tension (what's being adjusted). So some of these are better, but they are not always solving the issue of having the fork/shock valved exactly to your weight and riding style.
It depends on how picky you are, how far off the shock/fork is set up (valved) for your weight, how complex the circuits and adjustments are, and so forth, A fork or shock set up perfectly with the correct circuits doesn't really need any adjusters (compression, rebound, etc), on the other hand, many companies sell these "adjustments" and people think they are getting something that will work well, simply because it has the adjustments.
Ive varied it track to track, running 8 clicks from closed on a 40 fit rc2 but that could easily change tomorow. so many variables on a DH tracks there's no golden ticket to which works. could well be Aclick either way.
for the record im 210lbs on a fox 40 rc2 FIT on a yellow spring,
I just ride my bike if something feel off I make adjustments I don't count clicks or turns
I make sure my spring and sag is set properly and the rest depends on where I'm riding if I ride mountain creek on Saturday then go to Plattekill on Sunday I need to make adjustments the first couple runs to get bike handling properly
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