[pbskis14]

Yeahh tried to adjust the compression via the external adjusted in the left leg. the bolt or nut thing you use to adjust it is totally seized... it wont move at all. Any ideas??

Thanks
Pete

 

[davetrump]

You are correct, boxxers are not progressive. If you are bottoming it out, you have two choices. One is to increase the compression damping (make it harsher), the other is to increase the spring rate (makes it stiffer and again, harsher). This is one area where a couple major manufacturers are falling way behind, even though they put out decent products otherwise. Progressiveness is important because if you have the right spring, you can still bottom out a linear fork off a drop, but with progressiveness you can have a fork that does not bottom and does not need to be "oversprung" to do so.

it is a well known fact that adding 10cc of oil to each leg of a boxxer will make it ramp up in the last inch of travel.

advice should not be given by a person who hates boxxers, nor should anyone take that persons advice seriously.

make sure you dust seals are lubed (they come dry), make sure you have the correct spring rate (stock is for 200 pound guys), and add about 10cc of oil to what rockshox lists on their website and you will have a fork that is soft enough to track bumps in a corner and still suck up the g-outs and drops without feeling harsh.

play with the low speed compression to fight brake dive, but to much of this and the fork will be harsh on the small stuff. i run mine softer prings and lighter rebound, with a small amount of lowspeed compression, and a little extra oil to ramp up at the end and it feels awsome. the boxxer is a great fork if you take the time to set it up.

your fork should bottom off the big stuff, it should just never feel like it is hitting the end of its travel. a well set up fork will use full travel without thr rider feeling the fork bottom out (unless we are talking 10 feet to flat)

oh yeah... and let it break in over a day of dh riding.

 

[dhtahoe]

Adding oil above the recommended level will blow your seals. This is not a Marzocchi. Are you trying to turn the 5mm bolt or the 2.5 mm inside the 5mm on the bottom of the leg???

 

[E.T.]

make sure you dust seals are lubed (they come dry), make sure you have the correct spring rate (stock is for 200 pound guys), and add about 10cc of oil to what rockshox lists on their website and you will have a fork that is soft enough to track bumps in a corner and still suck up the g-outs and drops without feeling harsh.

play with the low speed compression to fight brake dive, but to much of this and the fork will be harsh on the small stuff. i run mine softer prings and lighter rebound, with a small amount of lowspeed compression, and a little extra oil to ramp up at the end and it feels awsome. the boxxer is a great fork if you take the time to set it up.

...Save up the extra $$$ and buy a 40. The fork seals are already lubed(imagine that!), they come with the correct oil weights and heights, they are adjustable for travel, springrate (they come with 3 springrates, the boxer comes with one), rebound, preload, high speed compression, and low speed compression are all externally adjustable. It does not require any drilling, dremeling, draining, or changing of anything. You simply put in the right springs and twist the dials to your liking. It is the same weight as the world cup boxxer except it is a $hitload stiffer. The bushings also do-not require resizing, try and try and you WILL NOT spike this fork (that can't be said for the Boxxer). OH, and it's a FOX.

 

[davetrump]

Adding oil above the recommended level will blow your seals. This is not a Marzocchi. Are you trying to turn the 5mm bolt or the 2.5 mm inside the 5mm on the bottom of the leg???

wrong... rockshox have been doing it for years to all their pro riders forks. even the black box upgade site from a few years ago suggested it. as did shaums march on rockshox website a few years back.

when compressed the oil is almost all inside the upper tubes, so you are not putting any extra stress on the oil and dust seals of the lowers, there is almost no pressure at the oil seals on the lower legs. why do you think that when a seal is worn oil only weaps out, or flows out slowly? because there is no preasure on it... otherwise it would blow out everywhere. the seal under the most presure is the one at the top caps... and it is threaded down.

adding oil is similar to an air assist adjustment, except you are making the air volume that is compressed above the oil smaller, rather than at a higher pressure.

air is progressive by nature, and a smaller volume will become more progressive at the end of the stroke.

10cc is a very small amount, but makes a huge difference over the last 1/2 to 1" of travel.

 

[E.T.]

Adding oil above the recommended level will blow your seals. This is not a Marzocchi. Are you trying to turn the 5mm bolt or the 2.5 mm inside the 5mm on the bottom of the leg???

Towney, I think your just confusing them...By the way are you going to the US Open?

 

[E.T.]

Actually I just think you are confusing me...

 

[pbskis14]

I was trying to adjust the 2.5mm bolt, not the 5mm

 

[Jm_]

it is a well known fact that adding 10cc of oil to each leg of a boxxer will make it ramp up in the last inch of travel.

And it's also a well known fact that this will blow your seals. So obviously it's a well known fact that there is no inherent progressivness to a boxxer.

 

[Jm_]

as did shaums march on rockshox website a few years back.

Are you takling about that guy that rides the norco with the marzocchi 888?

 

[dhtahoe]

Actually I just think you are confusing me...

Only because you rip out the stock crap and build your own... sorry no USO so somebody else will have to be last in pro neaky: . Trying to get some things done for the Reno Air Races so Tova can have a honeymoon which will be Schwitzer, Snowmass, Crankworks, and then Master Worlds (my only chance at a rainbow jersey)

 

[dhtahoe]

I was trying to adjust the 2.5mm bolt, not the 5mm

Cool just checking. If that is not turning that would be a start. Sound like the adj got turned all the way in by somebody and now is jammed in place. I have seen this before. I have also seen a friend have it turned in and then bind when the 5mm was tightened. So check that out... that would be a good start.

 

[dhtahoe]

Are you takling about that guy that rides the norco with the marzocchi 888?

Or the guy who rode a Chumba Wumba and a Boxxer before the Norco.

 

[kidwoo]

(my only chance at a rainbow jersey)

You've still got that one that says "celebrate diversity" don't you? I remember you were beaming with PRIDE when you first got it.

 

[dhtahoe]

You've still got that one that says "celebrate diversity" don't you? I remember you were beaming with PRIDE when you first got it.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA...... I walked right into that one.

 

[pbskis14]

Ok took off the 5mm bolt and tried to losen up the screw with no luck.....Anyone have any more ideas??

Thanks
Pete

 

[dhtahoe]

No no I'm sorry this will require the fork to be disassembled. It's no fun to try and get loose either. It gauls up and that little 2.5 does nothing. Take it to a shop if you have never had a fork apart. This does sound like the root of your issue. The comp damping is all the way closed. If you want to tackle it yourself heres how. Drain the oil. Loosen the 5mm but leave it in about three or four turns. Tap the 5mm LIGHTLY until the damper rod pops out of its seat in the lower leg. Now pull out the sanction/damper rod and find out why that adj won't turn. Then just assemble it in reverse order. Fill the oil level according to RS AND NO MORE. And make sure you never tighten it down that far (no I'm not saying you did it).

 

[Lumpy_Gravy]

To lube the dust seals can I use teflon grease?

Do i just put it on the stanchion above the lowers and push up and down