I'd heard that was going around...
>>> Freud, hey! <<<
- Thread starter johnbryanpeters
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What’s all this, then?
Made the error of buying a pre-marinated tri-tip for dinner last night, took one bite, couldn't choke it down, alas, I have no leftovers for lunch today. Tacos? Torta? Tacos and a torta? Tacos, a torta and a couple flautas? So many decisions to make.
Got a napkin sketch of the joint in question?
what was wrong with it? aside from the fact you bought it in the first place
One of the toughest bites of beef I've ever had, and it had an overwhelmingly chemical/rotten garlic flavor to it. Should have known things had gone off the rails when I could barely get my temp probe into it.what was wrong with it? aside from the fact you bought it in the first place
Snowed again, might as well walk up the hill again. Wednesday’s snow frozen into a punchable crust, now with last nights 6” on top. Some turns were great, others challenging.
Not the greatest form because A.) I’m not a great skier and B.) aforementioned buried frozen punchable crust
These turns were magical.
Not the greatest form because A.) I’m not a great skier and B.) aforementioned buried frozen punchable crust
These turns were magical.
Page has a semi- fun 7 mile intermediate loop around the town, if you really scan the terrain, you can find social trail offshoots towards the lake that take you on some awesome slickrock.
Simplest way would be to cut one end of each board off at 60 degrees, butt them up against the side of another board and zip some screws in from each side.
The upper joints are the ones in question. Many of the plans or images I can find show notches in the upper board and a steeper angle on the edge of the side of the triangle. I don't know that I have the tools nor skill to do that correctly.
I've found a few plans (as above) that show doing what @Westy suggested with a screw or two to fix the lower board to the top. I've seen a few that add a steel bracket for lateral support, so I will probably do both as that seems most logical.
@jonKranked I am building this:
a two tree treehouse with sliding supports on one tree. Not sure what I'll do for the actual house, but building a safe and solid platform that will last is step one.
The upper joints are the ones in question. Many of the plans or images I can find show notches in the upper board and a steeper angle on the edge of the side of the triangle. I don't know that I have the tools nor skill to do that correctly.
I've found a few plans (as above) that show doing what @Westy suggested with a screw or two to fix the lower board to the top. I've seen a few that add a steel bracket for lateral support, so I will probably do both as that seems most logical.
@jonKranked I am building this:
a two tree treehouse with sliding supports on one tree. Not sure what I'll do for the actual house, but building a safe and solid platform that will last is step one.
this is sort of what I am thinking for the final plan.
I was thinking a horizontal triangle not vertical.
The upper joints are the ones in question. Many of the plans or images I can find show notches in the upper board and a steeper angle on the edge of the side of the triangle. I don't know that I have the tools nor skill to do that correctly.
I've found a few plans (as above) that show doing what @Westy suggested with a screw or two to fix the lower board to the top. I've seen a few that add a steel bracket for lateral support, so I will probably do both as that seems most logical.
@jonKranked I am building this:
a two tree treehouse with sliding supports on one tree. Not sure what I'll do for the actual house, but building a safe and solid platform that will last is step one.
A notch will remove the shear loads on the fastener, not bad idea. You could cut that fairly easily with a circular saw, you just cut the outside limits then use the saw to hog out the material inbetween. Alternatively if you aren't up for that a plywood strap like in the images above would work. although I don't like plywood exposed to the elements. I'd suggest some kind of Simpson Strong Tie as a reinforcement.
Speaking of Lowes. The Home Depot near me has always had a line of dudes in the parking lot looking for day work. Now the Lowes near me has a line of ladies looking for hourly work.
All I can see is a treehouse full of hornet nests. 
hire them both and see what happens?
And spiders, always a lot of spiders.All I can see is a treehouse full of hornet nests.
Notching into the cross beam would be best, but not really necessary. You could do either a simpson 45° bracket on the outside and some structural screws (red) or just a lap joint with some structural screws or through bolts (green).
Awesome, thanks! I wasn't sure a lap joint would be secure enough, but I suppose multiple strong through bolts would do the trick. I had originally envisioned using an un-cut piece of lumber that would leave the corner slightly above and exposed above the upper beam. This extra portion could be used to keep the beams from the other side from sliding off.
I'm assuming you're not building a tree mansion, just a normal tree house/fort, lap joint will be fine. Your V is keeping it steady but the load is being shared by the connection of the horizontal beam attached to the tree, the more central the weight, the less the V matters. As much as I like to think I'd do some cool timer framing joints if I were building it, I'd just end up using a lap joint.
Just use a structurally rated fastener, most general screws are too hard/brittle. Will it be an issue? Probably not, but GRKs/Headloks are cheap, and they drive in like magic. In most areas that would be a code compliant connection for a deck, deck codes are always stupid overkill because they always get overloaded, fail and people die so there's some serious CYA engineering on them.
As someone with a second story deck from the late 80s/early 90s, I can see why they now choose to go overboard. The whole thing wiggled 6-8" laterally with a single person on it. It's a damned miracle it's still standing.
I drove a bunch of headlocks and ledger locks to secure things, then braced the posts. It's better now. Not great, but better. Collapse is no longer imminent.
That ship has sailed, apparently.Interesting. And yeah thats not something someone wants to be worrying about 16 years later...
A double light switch replacement that turned into yanking the whole god damned box out of the wall and a bunch of rewiring. The longer we're in that place the more I'm surprised it hasn't burned down.Did it involve plumbing? I bet it involved plumbing...
By a home they said .......
Shuttled Ribbon to Andys to finish the trip. Must have been ladies day cause we saw 25 ladies and 0 dudes. Good times. At the bottom I realized my rear rotor bolts were loose. Fuck that noise.
Mmmmm... Ribbon. That's good fun, right there. Don't think I've ever finished with Andy's.
My buddies had already ridden Gunny this trip so they opted for Andys. It was a good mix of hike a bike, ledgy descending, swoopy turns, punchy pedal climbs...
Same, girl... same.<snip> The longer we're in that place the more I'm surprised it hasn't burned down.
By a home they said .......
When we gutted our house down to the studs, every. single. outlet. In the house had black and brown fire and burn marks above them. And most of the light switches, and above the bathroom fan. Terrifying.
The lights in my kitchen recently started to flicker when I turned on the toaster oven. That circuit is knob and tube from 1910 or so. The circuit breaker was making sizzling sounds. I replaced it, I am sure everything else is fine.
*checks insurance is up to date*
Yep, everything else is fine.
When we were in the middle of the project, and it looked ridiculous to renovate vs. tearing it down (which we couldn’t afford) the electrician told us about the burn marks above the vent light/fan. I asked him “OK, OK…so how much do we have to pay you to not replace it? “
As much as I lament a lot of modern building codes because they're just dumb overkill to make up for shoddy construction, modern electrical codes are a godsend. Back in the day shit got wild with electrical.
One day I really want to build my own house, the ///Deck will be supported entirely with stainless steel structural members, all electrical will be massive overkill, every single room on it's own breaker, like 10 240v outlets in the garage, plywood backers in all rooms so I never need a drywall anchor all plumbing will be a home-run so I can isolate things without turning off the water, water heaters everywhere for zero lag hot water, and all pipes mapped out to never have to go on a pipe hunt ever again.
I'll go bankrupt and never finish it, but the guy who buys it from a bank auction will have one kick-ass start to their house.
One day I really want to build my own house, the ///Deck will be supported entirely with stainless steel structural members, all electrical will be massive overkill, every single room on it's own breaker, like 10 240v outlets in the garage, plywood backers in all rooms so I never need a drywall anchor all plumbing will be a home-run so I can isolate things without turning off the water, water heaters everywhere for zero lag hot water, and all pipes mapped out to never have to go on a pipe hunt ever again.
I'll go bankrupt and never finish it, but the guy who buys it from a bank auction will have one kick-ass start to their house.
I wanna buy that house.
Aluminum wire?
I heard they have to remove them via your butt. GLWT.
Curiously, no. Which was surprising as it was a Boise Cascade. But who the hell knows what happened over the years, many different owners and renters.