i am having huge problems geting my maxle out! i need to get my bike in my car but it wont fit with the front wheel on. help please!
ems! help! removing a maxle fom boxxer
- Thread starter anarchyUK
- Start date
owners manuel helps a ton with this. there's a pdf on their site if need be
but its unscrew with 6mm on one disc side. then you need to have the drive side pushed in to connect with the inner allen key-which unscrews the axle. use the 6mm for this aswell
but its unscrew with 6mm on one disc side. then you need to have the drive side pushed in to connect with the inner allen key-which unscrews the axle. use the 6mm for this aswell
thanks got it!
you should get a boxxer ride maxle it'll work w/ the race, team and w.c. thats what im doing
bikerpunk98199 said:
Actually, I don't think it will work, at least not according to the schematics I have looked at and the folks at Sram. If it does work, please let us know, as I am sick of stripping out the DH maxle in fits of pre-race panic....
I solve this problem with my axle.
I took everything out inside the axle, i.e. both 6mm allen heads, one from each side, 2 little coil spring, and the long 110mm tiny bolt shaft.
Then you are left with the emptied axle that you can thread with a 10mm allen wrench into the threaded fork leg.
I've been running this setup for a month and it never losen while riding DH at Mont-Ste-Anne.
I took everything out inside the axle, i.e. both 6mm allen heads, one from each side, 2 little coil spring, and the long 110mm tiny bolt shaft.
Then you are left with the emptied axle that you can thread with a 10mm allen wrench into the threaded fork leg.
I've been running this setup for a month and it never losen while riding DH at Mont-Ste-Anne.
What are you guys talking about? It's an incredibly efficient system!
I no longer need to use two different sized allen keys to get it out - now I use one allen key and a hammer.
I no longer need to use two different sized allen keys to get it out - now I use one allen key and a hammer.
Fury said:What are you guys talking about? It's an incredibly efficient system!
I no longer need to use two different sized allen keys to get it out - now I use one allen key and a hammer.
HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!
it will work my buddy has one he took of a ride and he loves it he can actully get it out faster than a regular QRSuspectDevice said:
Real smart. Ever wondered what the expanding wedges on the maxle are for? They are for compressing against the inside of the dropouts, in the same way that pinchbolts compress the dropouts against the axle on a conventional 20mm fork. Screwing the axle into the dropout only allows you to set hub preload, and does not actually press the axle against the dropout at all, so it is just sitting there loose (similar to if you ran a conventional 20mm fork with the pinchbolts all loose). By ditching the internals you've eliminated the compression mechanism.hellonasty said:
Nothing
No, it won't. Threads are a different size.
The QR maxle from the boxxer ride however will work in the boxxer race/team/wc.
Yeah, the dh maxle is a really bad improvement on the old boxxer 20mm axles. You still need allen keys to remove it, so who is going to have ONLY a 6mm allen on them, but not a 4mm too like the old ones? As pointed out, you also need a mallet half the time. It takes longer to use then the old system, but it is substantially heavier, a bigger pain in the ass to use, and break or strip with ease. I would probably buy one of those boxxer ride axles if I could find one.
Guess we gotta order a Boxxer Ride Maxle tomorrow.
ok so after you unscrew both 6mm heads then what? How the heck do you get the axle out? Oh btw im having a hard time unscrewing the drive side 6mm im afraid i'll strip it.
Once the 6mm heads are out, you stick an 8mm(I think, It's been a while) inside to remove the axle. I think you can only go in from the drive side? Can't quite remember(no flats in a while).
Jeez, it's pretty darn simple. Loosen 6mm on non-drive side then loosen 6mm on drive side. Remove axle.
PS-You don't remove anything except the axle from the fork.
PS-You don't remove anything except the axle from the fork.
It looks like people are saying a 10mm, but why is everyone having to use a hammer? if it screws out with an allen wrench where does the hammer come in?
oh yeah, 10 mm. I did it without a hammer, no problem.
No hammer, no 10mm. Just a 6mm and approximately 3 turns on each side.
Where in the heck is a 10mm on that axle. I have a 2006 Boxxer World Cup. Have they changed something?
Hmmmm.. I've got an 06 Race, according to this: http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/06Boxxer_English.pdf it looks like my model has a different axle than everyone else, so maybe don't lisiten to what I'm saying.
I have an 06 WC as well, maybe thats why im confused. Ok then 3 turns each side then push out towards the drive side right?
Correct. Or you can just grab the flange on the drive side and pull it out.
OK HEAR IT IS.....finally got it apart, 6mm nut on the brake side completely screws out then you pull the tie rod out (be carefull you dont loose the springs that pop out) then you use the 10mm allen wrench. The reason is to un thread the axle from the drop out then you pull the axle straight out, if its well greased then you dont need a hammer. Good luck
btw i have a 06 WC and this makes me wonder if SRAM made two different axle/maxle setups for the Bxxr's. I bought my fork end of 06 so maybe they changed the hardwear end of that year. Can anyone clear this up for sure?
btw i have a 06 WC and this makes me wonder if SRAM made two different axle/maxle setups for the Bxxr's. I bought my fork end of 06 so maybe they changed the hardwear end of that year. Can anyone clear this up for sure?
i messed up the right side peace that connects to the right side nut thing. i used a rear quick release and it works fine it also makes it easyer to take it off.
Ok guys, I don't know why there is so much confusion with this axle. Removing it is the simplest thing in the world. I have seen these kind of posts since the maxle first came out and I've yet to read a thread that has clear directions for doing it right.
So here goes.....
You do not need a 10mm hex for removal!!!! Ignore it. A single 6mm is all you need. Loosen the disc side first, YOU DO NOT NEED TO COMPLETELY REMOVE IT. Just loosen it around 10 revolutions maybe more or less. Then move the 6mm wrench to the drive side and insert it, it will pass thru the 10mm hex and engage with another 6mm hex further in the axle. Now unscrew the axle. When it stops unscrewing and just spins, pull the axle out. That's it. Simple. Reverse procedure to install.
The team/WC axle is superior to the Ride maxle. It's just as easy to remove and install, you just doesn't have a QR. The QR is ok for trail riding, but my son used a RIDE most of this season and you have to me sure to check the QR after every crash, cause it actually gets knocked open pretty easy. One time we found his axle half unscrewed
Here is a vid I made for the truly mechanically impaired. Sorry, the quality is poor. Did it with my digital still camera in vid mode. Plus, I had to use my left hand to film while I was working. And I ain't left handed. As you can see in the vid, removal and installation is a piece of cake.
So here goes.....
You do not need a 10mm hex for removal!!!! Ignore it. A single 6mm is all you need. Loosen the disc side first, YOU DO NOT NEED TO COMPLETELY REMOVE IT. Just loosen it around 10 revolutions maybe more or less. Then move the 6mm wrench to the drive side and insert it, it will pass thru the 10mm hex and engage with another 6mm hex further in the axle. Now unscrew the axle. When it stops unscrewing and just spins, pull the axle out. That's it. Simple. Reverse procedure to install.
The team/WC axle is superior to the Ride maxle. It's just as easy to remove and install, you just doesn't have a QR. The QR is ok for trail riding, but my son used a RIDE most of this season and you have to me sure to check the QR after every crash, cause it actually gets knocked open pretty easy. One time we found his axle half unscrewed
Here is a vid I made for the truly mechanically impaired. Sorry, the quality is poor. Did it with my digital still camera in vid mode. Plus, I had to use my left hand to film while I was working. And I ain't left handed. As you can see in the vid, removal and installation is a piece of cake.
Good that Old_Sckool finally cleared things up. This thread was getting lost in weird info.
I have to say that, whilst my maxle is easy to use, it is constantly unscrewing itself during hard riding. I wish companies would stop trying to offer "tool free" axle systems. I really don't see the point. Any rider with an ounce of common sense carries a multi-tool with a few allen keys on it, and as already said, if you have the six required for the maxle, you probably have the four that would have been required for the pinch bolts.
Same goes for Fox and Marzocchi. The new Fox axles look SO ugly compared to the simple pinch bolts on my old 36. And my gf just picked up a Z1 RC2 (the orange anniversary one). It has traditional pinch bolts and even her first comments were along the lines of "wow, that's so much simpler!" (Than the the QR20 setup on her previous fork.)
Just give us pinch bolts.
I have to say that, whilst my maxle is easy to use, it is constantly unscrewing itself during hard riding. I wish companies would stop trying to offer "tool free" axle systems. I really don't see the point. Any rider with an ounce of common sense carries a multi-tool with a few allen keys on it, and as already said, if you have the six required for the maxle, you probably have the four that would have been required for the pinch bolts.
Same goes for Fox and Marzocchi. The new Fox axles look SO ugly compared to the simple pinch bolts on my old 36. And my gf just picked up a Z1 RC2 (the orange anniversary one). It has traditional pinch bolts and even her first comments were along the lines of "wow, that's so much simpler!" (Than the the QR20 setup on her previous fork.)
Just give us pinch bolts.