[Udi]

Well I had the fork off my frame today for a routine checkup, and found the lower headset bearing had seized hard. Anyone had this happen before?

The bearing was greased well on assembly, and still had plenty inside when I checked. So it must have actually pitted itself or something, I managed to get it to turn it again with some difficulty but it felt quite notchy.

Well that's the first issue - the other is one I know has been discussed here at great length but after searching I couldn't find a good answer. How on earth are you supposed to get the bearings out of the E13 reducer cups? It's a horrid design, the only reason I want to find a solution here is because the E13 reducer + matching headset is the lightest solution for a 1.5" reducer headset by a long shot.

Some previous discussion is here, check vitox + davep's posts
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167768

Anyway, I knocked the old bearing out but like vitox I probably violated a few rules, and got very lucky. On tapping the inner race of the lower bearing from the top, it smashed out (so I thought oh no, now the outer race is stuck forever). Thankfully I had cracked the outer race in the process so the remains of the bearing came out smoothly, and I installed a fresh bearing with no dramas.

But like I said - I got lucky. So first, I'd like to know if there's a neater way to get bearings out of the cup (I sure can't see any options that don't damage the bearing or cup, and I really don't want to have to pull the cups out when I need to change a bearing).

And second, did I just get unlucky with the FSA IS2 bearing or have other people killed them? are there stronger/longer lasting bearings I should be looking at?

Cheers
Udi

 

[SpaZwEll]

Dremel two slots 180 degrees from each other where the bearings insert into the reducer cups. Then you can tap them easily out w/ a flat head screwdriver. My top fsa bearings were really tight. I think it was from when I was pressing them in though.

 

[Cave Dweller]

Before you put the bearing in you should have drilled a hole on two sides so that you could contact the outer race with a long 12inch screw driver, then you wouldn't need to take the headset cups out and minimal risk of the bearing race getting stuck.

It got talked about a while ago

http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110589&page=2&highlight=e13+reducer

Something like this pic by DßR

 

[Udi]

Yeah saw that. Had already sorted things out by the time I searched/posted though. Will do that next time though (or do some new cups). Must say though, nice work on the design E13.

Still open to thoughts on bearings though - was this a one-off freak thing or have people fried them before? These had only seen maybe 150 runs. Top one is still pretty good but I wouldn't call it silky smooth either.

 

[DerekJ]

Hey guys,

This will allow for easy removal of the IS bearing fromteh e.thirteen reducer.

Cheers,
derek

 

[DerekJ]

whoa!
that pic is huge...sorry.

 

[kidwoo]

I've used those and the cane creek bearings for years with no problems.

I think you and your bike are too light. You probably spin the inner race without rolling the balls in the bearing, allowing them to sit stationary and rust.

Sounds like a freak occurance.

You should invent the first teflon/delrin bushing headset.

Supa light!

 

[DerekJ]

I've used those and the cane creek bearings for years with no problems.

I think you and your bike are too light. You probably spin the inner race without rolling the balls in the bearng allowing them to sit stationary and rust.

Sounds like a freak occurance.

You should invent the first teflon/delrin bushing headset.

Supa light!

LOL!

 

[davep]

My newest set on the sunday got the hole/slot treatment before I put them in (is that a new version Derek?? or just a one off mod??). I have had three bikes with this set up and the bearings have all lasted (I do tend to pack them with a thicker waterproof grease when new as it makes more sense that the thinner stuff in there for the loads they see).

There are different quality levels of these bearings available (FSA or Cane creek makes no difference as they are all made by TH industries (fsa parent)). You might want to spring for stainless replacements if corrosion was visable. The lower bearing does seem quite exposed...seems like a thin rubber lip on the crown race might help keep things clean.

 

[DerekJ]

My newest set on the sunday got the hole/slot treatment before I put them in (is that a new version Derek?? or just a one off mod??)

This will be part of production and all the new product will have these.

Cheers,
derek

 

[Udi]

d-rod -
Cheers, new design looks sweet, nice to see they updated them. I'll probably just spring for a pair next time

davep -
Yeah I too packed mine with thick waterproof grease before riding the bike, and there was no sign of rust (and the bearing was still full of grease) when I opened them up.

So I guess I just killed the bearing.. ah well I'll see how the new one goes. Guessing the stainless ones would be weaker, so maybe I'll just stick with the stock TH's and grab a couple spares.

 

[davep]

Did not think you would have corrosion in the land of dry...(you are not up in the NE are you??)...but it could be an issue for some.

I find it takes a bit of attention to keep pressure off of the inner race when installing the bearing..that could certainly put some 'indexing' into the system...

Anyway, here (the US) the standard bearings are $8 full retail, so even if the life cycle is short, the total $$ output is acceptable.

quick thought....maybe a grease incompatibility???? did you flush the OEM grease before filling with the heavy duty stuff? I know some or the thickeners (lithium complex, calcium sulfonate, urea, PAO, etc) in grease are not campatible with others..

 

[Udi]

Interesting you say that - because I'd just left it for a week looking like sam hill's bike after champery. After some serious drought we've started getting some rain over here which is a nice change, not so much for the bikes though!

But yeah when I opened it up it still looked healthy, just very notchy. I doubt the grease being incompatible would have caused a bearing to get like that!... but for interests sake I left the new one just as it was.

Oh also, the bearing was pre-installed from factory (it was a complete sunday, I just got the frame) and felt smooth when I built the bike so I doubt it was the inner race thing either. I pressed the new one in pretty carefully with just the outer race though, so I'll see how it goes.

$8 is sweet though, guess I'll just buy a couple if I fry another one.

 

[top_dog]

I never had mine go wonky udi, but I don't think I ever rode it in the rain.

Little trick to get ~5-7mm lower stack height is to take the top dust cap of the headset off, so the fork crown sits directly on the wedge. I saw it on a pic of Sam's bike and ran it on my bike for 6 months with no dramas, my mate Jeremy with the white Sunday did it to his and it was still going sweetly when he got rid of it a few weeks back.

 

[Udi]

Haha topdog - you obviously don't know me well enough. The topcap (and 3 of the 5 microspacers) never saw the bike.