[blindboxx2334]

I have a 2011 fox F120 FIT. (lowered to 100mm).. not sure if its the RL or the RLC, but i dont think that would matter any ways.

I just have some very basic questions, although they have already been answered i would like another opinion b/c the guy on the phone over at Fox changed both of his answers more than once before i got off the phone with him, and my LBS says otherwise. so im at a crossroad..

before disassembling my fork, what settings should the rebound knob be at? (all the way fast(+) or slow(-)?)
fox guy told me slow, and lbs told me fast to get the oil to cycle through everything better.

before disassembling my fork, the lockout should be all the way OPEN (fit lever), and not on lockout, correct?
guy @ fox said to lock it out then changed his answer to all the way open. LBS said leave all the way open.. im assuming this is a common sense thing, although just wanted to be 100% sure.

guy at LBS said that i can use the red fox oil instead of the green oil. although i cannot use the green oil in place of the red oil.. correct?
i did this when i first got my fork and rebuilt it, seemed to work fine.. again, just want to be 100% sure.


ive read a lot about the euduro seals, lotta good and bad.. i was planning on getting them for my fox fork and my buddies x fusion velvet.. whats the verdict?

im also planning on servicing and re-bleeding the FIT cartridge, i found the info on fox's site to be very helpful.. if you have any additional tips for servicing this, please let me know. im also getting the service kit.

thanks for the help in advance
B

 

[samnation]

If it is an RLC it will have a blue dial under the lockout lever

Slow rebound allows more flow. So my recommendation would be slow all the way

Open the lockout you will need to

The red oil absorbs air more slowly and has a higher boiling point so technically you can use either anywhere but my suggestion if this is your first rebuild is do it by the book until you know what these things do. Red is not required in all forks have a look at the fox service section to be sure.

Enduro seals keep more dirt out but make everything a bit more sticky. My suggestion use the Fox low friction SKS seals and just keep them clean (I have rebuilt forks with enduro SKS and non-SKS seals)

As for Bleeding the cartridge my advice is cycle it a lot as you fill it if you don't you won't get the amount of oil they call for in it

For reference here is fox's service section

 

[blindboxx2334]

its just an RL then. i just have a lockout lever on the right side that has their FIT logo on it..

this will be the second time opening up my forks. i believe these are OE 'take off' forks and i bought them brand new with 120mm travel. i needed them to be 100mm for my DJ, so i put the travel spacer in there and sealed it up with new oil (kept original seals and all that jazz). i got rid of (what should be) new oil in the fork and put red in on both sides, no problems/complaints on my end.. i also have a half full quart of red oil, so im just going to go that route so i dont have to buy green oil..

i actually pulled the trigger and bought enduro seals a couple of hours after i started this thread, if i dont like them i will switch them out for SKS seals. not that much of a problem. i care for my fork and clean it after every ride, so you bet your arse i will be monitoring these seals...

as for the fit cartridge, fox did seem to somewhat stress cycling the shaft to make sure you get all the bubbles out. i took note of this and will make sure to take my time and not to seal it up until i see no more air bubbles. im in absolutely no rush when i do this stuff anyways, im scared that if i rush something i will mess it up, so slow and steady for me.

thanks for the help buddy, really appreciate it. im going to school to be a mechanical engineer, and while i have a good understanding of mechanical things, suspension has always been something ive lacked knowledge in. so i cant wait to take em apart and start learning more and more!