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Brand new Deemax rear cassette play

Bullit21

Monkey
May 14, 2003
198
0
Socal
Guys,

I just bought a brand new rear Deemax wheel from my LBS (135mm spacing) and a new SRAM 9 speed cassette. I am having a little bit of play (the cassette is able to wobble back and forth a bit if you pull on the inner cog) as the casssette is not able to slide in all the way flush against the hub (there is still a bit of the outer freehub body groove still showing in between the cassette and the hub). Is this normal or am I missing a spacer? My LBS says that this is normal. I am going to Whistler this week and I don't want to ovalize the grooves on the outside of the freehub body. Thanks.
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
86,086
24,615
media blackout
yeah, like the ratchet body thing, I don't know what it's called.

Maybe I explained that poorly/don't know what I'm talking about.
the pawls and engagement?

check to make sure the cassette cogs are tight on the carrier too. Which cassette is it? is the cassette lockring tight enough?
 

ridefast

Monkey
Jan 25, 2006
432
0
Not where I'd like
Probably wouldnt hurt to make sure the freehub body is tight. Even though it is a new wheelset, it is still good to check everything out first. Also, have your LBS double check the tension on the spokes. No sense in trashing a new wheelset.
 

nmr8

Monkey
Apr 6, 2007
108
0
Guys,

I just bought a brand new rear Deemax wheel from my LBS (135mm spacing) and a new SRAM 9 speed cassette. I am having a little bit of play (the cassette is able to wobble back and forth a bit if you pull on the inner cog) as the casssette is not able to slide in all the way flush against the hub (there is still a bit of the outer freehub body groove still showing in between the cassette and the hub). Is this normal or am I missing a spacer? My LBS says that this is normal. I am going to Whistler this week and I don't want to ovalize the grooves on the outside of the freehub body. Thanks.
i saw someone with the exact same problem on a crossland rear wheel. they used a cassette spacer to take up the play. i heard from a few other onlookers that that was "normal" for the mavic wheel. it's pretty weird though if you ask me. why would they do that?
 

cannondalejunky

ease dropper
Jun 19, 2005
2,924
2
Arkansas
unfortunately thats one of the drawbacks to those wheels...i have a set of the silver deemax's and i have the same problem...mavic hubs only have two pawls (the clicking mechanism) which can lead towards a little bit of play. there's really nothing you can do about it, except get a chris king hub, and then you'll have zero play
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
86,086
24,615
media blackout
unfortunately thats one of the drawbacks to those wheels...i have a set of the silver deemax's and i have the same problem...mavic hubs only have two pawls (the clicking mechanism) which can lead towards a little bit of play. there's really nothing you can do about it, except get a chris king hub, and then you'll have zero play
and an empty wallet. there are better options than king these days. I9 for example. but you'd still have an empy wallet.
 

Bullit21

Monkey
May 14, 2003
198
0
Socal
Thanks guys. I will see if my LBS has the tool to tighten the non freehub side cup and maybe that will get rid of the play. The lockring is tight at this point, this is a pretty good shop and a good mechanic in my experience.
 

mandown

Poopdeck Repost
Jun 1, 2004
20,287
7,829
Transylvania 90210
unfortunately thats one of the drawbacks to those wheels...i have a set of the silver deemax's and i have the same problem...mavic hubs only have two pawls (the clicking mechanism) which can lead towards a little bit of play. there's really nothing you can do about it, except get a chris king hub, and then you'll have zero play
i was on the trail with him when he noticed this. i think you are seeing a different problem than the one he has. the prawls will impact front-to-back play. this problem is side-to-side play. the freehub body spins fine. however the cassette moves a bit, as if it is sliding on the freehub body from left to right. at first it appeared that the cassette body might have been worn (it was older) and moving around on the freehub body.
 

nmr8

Monkey
Apr 6, 2007
108
0
unfortunately thats one of the drawbacks to those wheels...i have a set of the silver deemax's and i have the same problem...mavic hubs only have two pawls (the clicking mechanism) which can lead towards a little bit of play. there's really nothing you can do about it, except get a chris king hub, and then you'll have zero play
unless i misunderstand the play is not between the freehub and the hub shell but between the cassette and the freehub, right? so the pawls and right side bearing shouldn't have anything to do with it right?
 

Spunger

Git yer dumb questions here
Feb 19, 2003
2,257
0
805
I am pretty sure they make shims for cassettes. I use Shimano so I dunno what the deal is with SRAM, but give it a search.
 

acarus

Chimp
Oct 29, 2010
1
0
Hi, I had this problem on my 08 Deemax 12x150. The spline body the cassette mounts onto was sliding side to side, and the cassette with it. Pulled it apart and found there was circlip around the shaft that should not have been there. Hard to describe but instead of the outer end cap pushing up against spline body bearing and holding it in tight it was up against the circlip, thus leaving a gap for the thing to float about.
Have a look at the diagram below, that outer groove on the shaft is where the circlip was.
http://www.mavic.com/sites/default/files/download/FreeWheelBody12x150.pdf

Just yank the end cap out with a set of pliers, pull the circlip out, file any burrs off the shaft left by the circlip and bobs your uncle.
The end cap will clip into place now on that groove and when bolted back into the bike frame any remaining play will disappear.
Enjoy
 

tuumbaq

Monkey
Jul 5, 2006
725
0
Squamish BC
Hi, I had this problem on my 08 Deemax 12x150. The spline body the cassette mounts onto was sliding side to side, and the cassette with it. Pulled it apart and found there was circlip around the shaft that should not have been there. Hard to describe but instead of the outer end cap pushing up against spline body bearing and holding it in tight it was up against the circlip, thus leaving a gap for the thing to float about.
Have a look at the diagram below, that outer groove on the shaft is where the circlip was.
http://www.mavic.com/sites/default/files/download/FreeWheelBody12x150.pdf

Just yank the end cap out with a set of pliers, pull the circlip out, file any burrs off the shaft left by the circlip and bobs your uncle.
The end cap will clip into place now on that groove and when bolted back into the bike frame any remaining play will disappear.
Enjoy
Soooo. . . you do realize this thread is 3 years old and hopefully,the OP has solved his problem by now right ? ;-)
 
Last edited:

scottishmark

Turbo Monkey
May 20, 2002
2,121
22
Somewhere dark, cold & wet....
i saw someone with the exact same problem on a crossland rear wheel. they used a cassette spacer to take up the play. i heard from a few other onlookers that that was "normal" for the mavic wheel. it's pretty weird though if you ask me. why would they do that?
seen cassette spacers used many, many times. Some hubds just seem to need them :confused: very cheap and effective fix though