[dexter]

Got my new bike with 180mm code rcs's a few months back and upgraded to 200mm rotors about a month ago. Problem is, every ride the brakes start dragging like crazy and I have to spend 20 minutes when i get home fine tuning them perfectly back into alignment so the pads dont rub. I am running the proper adapters and the longer bolts with the conical washers. Do i need to face everything? Ditch the conical washers? throw everything away and buy hopes?

 

[HAB]

Those spherical washers suck. Adapters that use 4 bolts make alignment way easier.

 

[Westy]

Are you unable to center them or are they losing center as in some times the left pad will not retract and sometimes the right?


Have had new SRAM brakes that had too much fluid in them and any heat would cause the fluid to expand and drag a lot.

 

[djjohnr]

Good bleed? Pistons lubed?

 

[Jm_]

One problem can be that the brake migrates to it's "indexed" position, the ole "squeeze the lever" thing with the bolts loose doesn't really work when the metal has an imprint and will seek out it's previous position. New Hayes products have something similar to this picture standard, but someone drilled and tapped their own set-screws here. This should come on all brakes.

 

[Dogboy]

SRAM has a complicated piston reset procedure. In my experience it actually works pretty well, but it takes time and patience. I would reach out to their customer service for the rundown of how to do it.

 

[vinny4130]

Like stated if the bleed is good it’s likely pistons on one side move more than the other. Without the wheel or pads in, (have a plastic tire lever with in reach and bleed block) watch the pistons slowly squeeze the lever, then release, again more than the last time and again till you see how they are moving. Watch out they can come out more than you think but don’t pop one out. The tire lever can push the furthest one back in the caliper. A sideways bleed block only in between two of the four can allow you to manipulate the two others with tire lever. One will come out better, push it back and hold it back (now three pistons held back) now only one is left to move with brake lever squeezing. Cycling all the slow pistons will make them move better after a few tries test your caliper by pushing all pistons back and even squeeze lever with caliper empty still and see if they move together better. If they are working together (and not one brand of 4 piston I have seen move together exactly the same) put the pads in and get them square in the caliper. The purple Hayes dummy rotor tool is great for this. The dummy rotor can help set the pads and rotors square to the rotor and yes the crosshairs are a great addition to calipers. Try not to push the pistons back crooked it may damage the seal. I hope that makes sense

 

[Da Peach]

Pro-tip: Do not let the pistons pop out.

Don’t ask why I know...

 

[dexter]

all of this sounds like tons of fun... Bleed is good, pads are newish (rears have 60 or so miles). Sounds like a 4-10 beer process. Thanks everyone.

 

[djjohnr]

 

[englertracing]

That's pretty much what I do, but soft pipe cleaners instead of q tips. Alcohol or brake cleaner first. Then on mineral oil systems I apply slickoleum on q tip before running them home, then thoroughly wipe excess off, with dot system I use Castrol red rubber grease instead of slickoleum.

 

[Westy]

Never had a problem that a blast of brake cleaner in a small un-ventilated room didn't fix, or at least i never remembered having a problem.

 

[HardtailHack]

One problem can be that the brake migrates to it's "indexed" position, the ole "squeeze the lever" thing with the bolts loose doesn't really work when the metal has an imprint and will seek out it's previous position. New Hayes products have something similar to this picture standard, but someone drilled and tapped their own set-screws here. This should come on all brakes.

Painted calipers wouldn't help with that either, same with a CSU, who thought it was a good idea to put a bearing seat on top of a thick layer of paint?

Face all of the things or anodize instead of painting.

 

[SylentK]

Birzman makes a great tool to speed up alignment. Good enough for Gwins mechanic, good enough for me.

Birzman Clam Disc Brake Gap Tool

Birzman Clam Disc Brake Gap Tool :: From $8.40 :: Birzman Disc Brake Tools

www.universalcycles.com

Won't help with sticky pistons, etc, obviously. Highly recommend.

 

[StiHacka]

Birzman makes a great tool to speed up alignment. Good enough for Gwins mechanic, good enough for me.

Birzman Clam Disc Brake Gap Tool

Birzman Clam Disc Brake Gap Tool :: From $8.40 :: Birzman Disc Brake Tools

www.universalcycles.com

Won't help with sticky pistons, etc, obviously. Highly recommend.

There's also this, which I found indispensable when setting up rear caliper on my out-of-spec Ibis frame. I sold it with the frame.

Hayes Caliper Alignment Tool

Hands On Bike is a blog that focuses on sharing tips about bicycle upgrading, especially for folding bikes.

handsonbike.blogspot.com

 

[HAB]

That Hayes one is nice because it also has a lever for resetting pistons, which works pretty well.

Also it's purple.

 

[Carraig042]

I use silicone oil on my Hope brakes after seeing that it was recommended by them.

 

[toodles]

Anyone using silicon lube to coat pistons? I wouldn’t have thought the outer 1/3 of a piston would normally come into contact with hydraulic oil.

Yeah even just silicone spray works well.

 

[amishmatt]

Birzman makes a great tool to speed up alignment. Good enough for Gwins mechanic, good enough for me.

Birzman Clam Disc Brake Gap Tool

Birzman Clam Disc Brake Gap Tool :: From $8.40 :: Birzman Disc Brake Tools

www.universalcycles.com

Won't help with sticky pistons, etc, obviously. Highly recommend.

Hey, thanks for posting this. I picked up a set and it worked perfectly to get rid of that last little bit of rub.

 

[jeremy_2640]

Hey, thanks for posting this. I picked up a set and it worked perfectly to get rid of that last little bit of rub.

Super easy to make if you happen to have some shim sheet lying around.... A permanent fixture in my travelling tool bag now.