Getting ready to build a wheelset with CK hubs. Should I get Aluminum or the Stainless Steel driveshell?
Aaaaannd, why?
Thanks
Aaaaannd, why?
Thanks
Aluminum or SS hub driveshell?
- Thread starter FirstAscent
- Start date
Or you could go Hadley, and rock a Ti freehub like all the cool kids.
Hadley hubs FTW
Not much of an issue anymore.
Shimano always made either steel or titanium. Course lots of hub makers were able to make lighter hubs by using softer alu, especially way back when mountain biking was relatively young, but seems shimano knew what they were doing all along and this wasn't as well thought-out by the other hub companies. This only became a real big problem when you used an low-level cassette or the first SRAM cassettes, even the high end ones, did not have an aluminum carrier. Now even low end SRAM cassettes have a carrier and the top 3 gears on it, as well as the alloys in the mainstream hubs seem to be better. I used my DT hubs for years and was always able to get the cassette (XT) off by hand, even though it did score some and wouldn't just "fall off" the carrier either.
I'd only be worried in two situations: Some no-name mass-produced hub with an aluminum freehub mechanism or some low end non-carrier cassette on any modern aluminum freehub, fairly unlikely situations.
If money was no option, I'd get a Ti, but I don't think it's necessary.
Otherwise, I think the problem has taken care of itself pretty well over the years.
Plus, CK has what a 10 year warrenty? Make them pay for it if it gets screwed up, you were only using it as intended.
Shimano always made either steel or titanium. Course lots of hub makers were able to make lighter hubs by using softer alu, especially way back when mountain biking was relatively young, but seems shimano knew what they were doing all along and this wasn't as well thought-out by the other hub companies. This only became a real big problem when you used an low-level cassette or the first SRAM cassettes, even the high end ones, did not have an aluminum carrier. Now even low end SRAM cassettes have a carrier and the top 3 gears on it, as well as the alloys in the mainstream hubs seem to be better. I used my DT hubs for years and was always able to get the cassette (XT) off by hand, even though it did score some and wouldn't just "fall off" the carrier either.
I'd only be worried in two situations: Some no-name mass-produced hub with an aluminum freehub mechanism or some low end non-carrier cassette on any modern aluminum freehub, fairly unlikely situations.
If money was no option, I'd get a Ti, but I don't think it's necessary.
Otherwise, I think the problem has taken care of itself pretty well over the years.
Plus, CK has what a 10 year warrenty? Make them pay for it if it gets screwed up, you were only using it as intended.
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currently I plan on using a shimano 6700 cassette so that will be good quality. thanks for your opinions. is SS needed if you have a good cassette with carriers?
hadley isn't out of the question, and I like the idea of a ti freehub. My big thing is I don't want to use spacers so the rear hub needs to be a 157x12, but hadley makes them too so they are an option.
hadley isn't out of the question, and I like the idea of a ti freehub. My big thing is I don't want to use spacers so the rear hub needs to be a 157x12, but hadley makes them too so they are an option.
No IME. I used an Ultegra on my 29er and right now a 105 on my snowbike, but any of those cassettes, even the 105, use a carrier for the bigger gears. Remember that lower end shimano cassettes and all SRAM cassettes were ENTIRELY single loose gears a few years ago. THAT was a big difference back then. Today, I wouldn't think twice about running such a cassette on an aluminum hub. Yes, expect slight scoring, but I wouldn't expect (nor did I experience) the kind of jammed-on cassettes that we saw from back in the early 2000s.
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awesome, thanks for your help Jm, good to hear from people with first hand experience too.
I second Jm's thoughts. I have a CK hub with an aluminum driveshell. I have used XT and XTR cassettes with carriers on it and have not had a problem. There is a bit of scoring so the cogs do not just fall off if I remove the lockring, but a little fiddling with the cassette or a few taps on the back of it and it comes off. And this is after a lot of use- the hubs are on an XC bike that I bought used maybe 6+ years ago. I have put a few thousand miles on it and wore through the brake track on the rims, but the hubs are fine.
thanks Rogers, I'd be perfectly content if my hubs lasted that long. and up here in AK we have a short riding season anyway compared to others.
I don't know about ck setups but the Al you mini yum thing on my dt swiss hub looks like ass from my awesome drive power. Nothing but an XT and an Ultegra cassette have ever been on there. It's whatever that most expensive 150mm dh hub they sell is. It's a pain to get cassettes on and off with all that gouging (from my awesome drive power). I don't doubt ck stuff is better but the broad generalization may not be all that applicable.
DT Swiss freehub bodies ALWAYS score like that. They must use the softest aluminum available. I've had two DT hubs and both of them showed groves in the body. CK, Hadley, even Shimano: zero damage or barely a mark at worst.
OP: I wouldn't pop for the SS shell from King. I would pop for the heavy duty bolt-on axle though.
OP: I wouldn't pop for the SS shell from King. I would pop for the heavy duty bolt-on axle though.
With all that awesome drive power, comes great responsibility.
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I have a pair of those lying around. Don't need them since going to 142x12. I'll ship em to you for free if you need em. hit me up with a pm.
PM sent. Thanks!
Yeah I used an aluminum shell DT for years and never had much of a problem, this while never using the granny gear either, but this entire issue just isn't anywhere near as bad as it used to be when there were single separate loose rings with cassettes. Another thing to think of is the lockring. If it's not tight and "squeezing" the cassette together, it won't be acting as one-unit and spreading out the force, tending to put way more force on the actual gear you are in and into the shell.
Wait, you have to tighten those things? I usually just throw away the lock ring and use the frame to hold the cassette on.
I'm going with ass aluminum and awesome power.
On that note, can a fella get a better (steel?) one to replace it? Mine's getting to the point of being damn annoying.
I'm going with ass aluminum and awesome power.
On that note, can a fella get a better (steel?) one to replace it? Mine's getting to the point of being damn annoying.
I'm 90% sure they make a steel version for the FR440 hubs.
sounds awesome, are these ck axles? and they are 157x12? why are you going to a 142? just curious.
I've heard good things about DT hubs but I have no experience with them.
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so this is awkward... I had two people take me up on my offer. Am I supposed to send it to the OP, or to the person that responded first?
Well id be biased to answer that question so... Pick a name out of a hat? Haha
You said you have a pair, one for each?
"One day into the racing clinic and Kidwoo knew this was going to be the best week ever."Send it to the one who can come up with the best caption for this picture
That's me in the VO2max camo getup in the front.
What belgians can do with their ass cheeks while maintaining a steady heart rate is amazing
What belgians can do with their ass cheeks while maintaining a steady heart rate is amazing
OK, so from the PM's there seems to be some misunderstanding about what I have up for grabs. Here's a pic:
It's 135mm spacing. I had it on my 2005 Enduro, but my new frame (Mojo HD) is 142x12, so I needed a new axle. Let me know if you're still interested.
It's 135mm spacing. I had it on my 2005 Enduro, but my new frame (Mojo HD) is 142x12, so I needed a new axle. Let me know if you're still interested.
yes, that's what i thought it was.
(if available, that is)
(if available, that is)
Thanks for the update, I'd need a 157mm so count me out.
Thanks though!
Thanks though!
There for sure was a ss cassette body for the Hugi FR hubs, I have one right here. Don't think they have been made in a few years tho.
well that settles it then, perfect.
Nick, do you need the axle too, or just the bolts? I'll drop it in the mail today.
I would need the whole assembly, axle and bolts.
My address is in your PM box. Reply with your paypal and let me buy you a 6-pack or something.
Thanks again!
My address is in your PM box. Reply with your paypal and let me buy you a 6-pack or something.
Thanks again!