[TrumbullHucker]

Last year i swapped my manitou 6 way (finally) for a 5.0... bought the same dimensions as my 6way ( 8.75" i2i,,, 2.75" stroke) but with a 500 lb spring

2 weeks ago i bought a lighter 400 lb spring ( which, according to the mtn spring calculators is correct ) and feels so much better

but now i am experiences a sh*t load of tire rub, even on the littlest drops

i had the shock shuttle in the middle, which is what i prefer, geo felt great

but i did move the shock shuttle towards the rear tire ( more FR geo ) and really did not like how it felt, but it did solve the shock rub problem..


my dhx is tuned for DH as- 150 Psi in air chamber, 2 clicks of propedal, barely any spring preload ( maybe one or two turns ), and bottom out pretty much cranked

what is there to do? smaller 26" tire is the only thing i can think kep:
i want to keep the shock shuttle in the middle postion

freeride shock position rub

freeride shock shuttle position

downhill shock position rub

downhill shock shuttle position

 

[bobsten]

I had this problem as well. Turn your shock shuttle around and you should be fine.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

wouldnt that make my GEO hella steep?

 

[scottishmark]

A quick google says you've got the shuttle on back to front. It may also be the case that the geo simply doesn't setup the way you want it too.......... (yes it could be the case that you can't actually use all of the mount positions)

 

[TrumbullHucker]

i have my shuttle on backwards??

dumb fuk

back to the garage to see what hole works

might have to switch the mounting position of my 5.0? ( reseviour might hit the top tube? )

 

[4130biker]

You could always put spacers below your bottom out bumper to reduce travel, if geometry is more important than travel to you. I've done it to my demo 8 and enduro coil in the past with good results. 1/8" nylon washers with 1/2" dia holes work well, just cut a slit in them to fit them around the damper shaft.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

geo is more important than travel for me.. when riding in the more FR geo i really felt a negative difference

1/8" enough to stop the tire rub?
edit: im assuming you play around with how many washers you use

 

[mtg]

You could always put spacers below your bottom out bumper to reduce travel, if geometry is more important than travel to you. I've done it to my demo 8 and enduro coil in the past with good results. 1/8" nylon washers with 1/2" dia holes work well, just cut a slit in them to fit them around the damper shaft.

+1

And, yeah, a small spacer could make the difference. Remember leverage ratio; 1/8" reduction of travel at the shock makes around 3/8" travel reduction at the wheel, give or take.

 

[bobsten]

geo is more important than travel for me.. when riding in the more FR geo i really felt a negative difference

1/8" enough to stop the tire rub?
edit: im assuming you play around with how many washers you use

Do what you want to do but before I figured out silly a mistake that was, I was constantly getting tire-bite and eating **** whenever I would G-out.

Why can't you just run the bike in the slacker mode, with the shuttle correctly installed?

 

[TrumbullHucker]

im going to try this first for sure

after dinner though lol

 

[al-irl]

I had a similar problem when I had mine, although I ran it in the second from most slack setting it wasnt as bad as you seem to be experiencing. Id try a smaller back tire. I was running a 2.5 maxxis and only got a slight rubbing on harsh bottom outs. I got a small amount of buzz just at the weld around the seat tube. I found it to be fairly acceptable and didnt cause the bike to be slowed down at all when riding.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

I had a similar problem when I had mine, although I ran it in the second from most slack setting it wasnt as bad as you seem to be experiencing. Id try a smaller back tire. I was running a 2.5 maxxis and only got a slight rubbing on harsh bottom outs. I got a small amount of buzz just at the weld around the seat tube. I found it to be fairly acceptable and didnt cause the bike to be slowed down at all when riding.

and you had it in the correct shuttle rotation?
mine is reversed lol

 

[4130biker]

You could always put spacers below your bottom out bumper to reduce travel, if geometry is more important than travel to you. I've done it to my demo 8 and enduro coil in the past with good results. 1/8" nylon washers with 1/2" dia holes work well, just cut a slit in them to fit them around the damper shaft.

edit, one cut on the washer at maybe a 30 deg. angle- and flex the thing over the shaft. That way it's closed once it's on.
Finally, be prepared to up your spring rate a bit if you add more than one spacer so you're not slamming the new bottom out position too often.

I agree with trying it stock and with a 2.5 minion, but if I were you, I'd be psyched about the ability to run it slacker than stock with a bit less travel- but that's just me

 

[baca262]

here's a crazy idea - how about running it with a bit more sag? the travel remains the same so the bike can track better and the dynamic geometry is how you want it. the only problem here is it would be easier to bottom out but if you don't have any bottoming problems it might be worth a shot.

 

[bdamschen]

back to the garage to see what hole works

thatswhathesaid.



That's all I came to this thread to do.

 

[al-irl]

and you had it in the correct shuttle rotation?
mine is reversed lol

Yeah i did. It only rubbed a tiny bit there was a small rub mark right were the weld goes around the seat tube about 20mm long. My shova st used to rub aswell on bottom out and that wasn't adjustable. The cable stop for the front mech was nicely polished by the time I sold it on. Im guessing its a little thing about morewoods from that vintage that they sacrificed a little but of bottom out rub to have everything else work the way they wanted. It was no big deal with my izumi or shova. However you seem to have pretty excessive tire rub.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

edit, one cut on the washer at maybe a 30 deg. angle- and flex the thing over the shaft. That way it's closed once it's on.
Finally, be prepared to up your spring rate a bit if you add more than one spacer so you're not slamming the new bottom out position too often.

I agree with trying it stock and with a 2.5 minion, but if I were you, I'd be psyched about the ability to run it slacker than stock with a bit less travel- but that's just me

i rotated the shuttle 180 degrees and moved it up towards the fork one or two positions and had the spring off and bottomed.. seat and tire were about .5" away.. prob will get a tiny rub...

if i dont dig the new shock setup i will def do the washer thing, i loved how it felt in that setup( and just used to it )

thatswhathesaid.



That's all I came to this thread to do.

Yeah i did. It only rubbed a tiny bit there was a small rub mark right were the weld goes around the seat tube about 20mm long. My shova st used to rub aswell on bottom out and that wasn't adjustable. The cable stop for the front mech was nicely polished by the time I sold it on. Im guessing its a little thing about morewoods from that vintage that they sacrificed a little but of bottom out rub to have everything else work the way they wanted. It was no big deal with my izumi or shova. However you seem to have pretty excessive tire rub.

yeah i switched the shuttle and moved it up alittle towards the fork.. ill prob now have alittle bit of rub

 

[TrumbullHucker]

p.s thankyou everyone who helped me out! proud of my ridemonkey stickers on the top of my downtube