[Inclag]

So I'm doing a complete tear down of my Demo for the start of this season. All the pivots are in good enough shape and smooth enough for one more season of use (may pick the seals and add some grease to them). However the sets of bearings located at the seatstay/chainstay junction are smoked, especially the brake side bearings.

Does anyone know what the nominal depth is that the bearings should be recessed within the bored holes of the chainstay so I can get them centered properly? Also, was going to press the bearings in and out with the help of some C-Clamps unless there is a better setup I'm not aware of.

 

[wood booger]

There is a FRS bearing press/puller kit that most decent S shops should have, worlds better than c-clamps. But clamps and sockets can work if that is all you have, just greater chance of ruining a brand new bearing while installing it.

As for the depth, there is a spacer that goes between the inner races of the bearings and a shoulder in the bore itself. Just press one bearing in until it stops (or is flush w/ outer surface), put the spacer in, then press the other bearing in. Check before you press it all the way to make sure that the spacer is still centered, the FSR tool will help with this.

I'd pop all the seals I could w/o removing bearings and pack them as full as possible w/ good grease. They come pretty minimally filled from factory.

Shred the Gnar Brah!

 

[Carcinogen]

Just be careful when using a c-clamp because most have swivel heads and that makes it harder to get them in straight. A vice would be better than a clamp.

 

[Inclag]

There is a FRS bearing press/puller kit that most decent S shops should have, worlds better than c-clamps. But clamps and sockets can work if that is all you have, just greater chance of ruining a brand new bearing while installing it.

As for the depth, there is a spacer that goes between the inner races of the bearings and a shoulder in the bore itself. Just press one bearing in until it stops (or is flush w/ outer surface), put the spacer in, then press the other bearing in. Check before you press it all the way to make sure that the spacer is still centered, the FSR tool will help with this.

I'd pop all the seals I could w/o removing bearings and pack them as full as possible w/ good grease. They come pretty minimally filled from factory.

Shred the Gnar Brah!

Good to hear there's a bottoming shoulder. It was fairly late in the evening and upon first look there appeared to be no shoulder. That'll make things exponentially easier. I'll see what I can fab up to avoid the C-clamp, definitely don't want to screw up the axial alignment during install.

Anyone have suggestions for a decent higher viscosity EP grease? Given the wear characteristics of the these bearings vs. the rest in the system I'll want to try to purge out the grease in the new bearings with something a little more robust to get a longer service life out of them.

 

[wood booger]

Good to hear there's a bottoming shoulder. It was fairly late in the evening and upon first look there appeared to be no shoulder. That'll make things exponentially easier. I'll see what I can fab up to avoid the C-clamp, definitely don't want to screw up the axial alignment during install.

Anyone have suggestions for a decent higher viscosity EP grease? Given the wear characteristics of the these bearings vs. the rest in the system I'll want to try to purge out the grease in the new bearings with something a little more robust to get a longer service life out of them.

There may not be a shoulder, but most other S bikes have one. But there is definitely a spacer, so just press the 1st bearing in flush if there is no shoulder.

Go for the red colored Mobil 1 synthetic grease (lifelong tube for cheap @ auto parts store) and pack them full. I believe it is harvested from god fearing unicorns that reside in the Swiss Alps.

 

[baca262]

use something with molybdenum disulphide additive - it keeps lubricating even if washed out since the moly binds to metal under pressure.

i use it on my chain and all the bearings, the chain gets creaky after at least 2 weeks of everyday riding.