Yeah I meant the seals on the piston after that. Hayes told me a dab of grease on the end of the ball joint. I used DOT grease because it was close but I'm sure something else would work too, like Slick Honey.
When 1 of my levers was getting sticky, it was also a bit noisy. I replaced the bearings first, then greased the ball end, and finally cleaned and greased the piston seals. The last one did the trick - there was a tiny bit of grit stuck on one of the seals.
Has anyone tested Cura 4s with the new-ish FCS lever? They claim it increases leverage and some reviews indicate it provides more power along with being slightly longer, but I can't seem to find much info aside from the NSMB review. Anyone know how much it changes the leverage and if it's a big improvement?
Also, if anyone wants to add Intend Trinity to the spreadsheet: they claim 17mm pistons, 9.5mm master, and mechanical leverage of 7.3 with overall of 46.78:1. I haven't verified on mine, though.
Yes, I had this problem on one set. I don't think I ever solved it, instead I put them on my wife's bike and it helps me keep track of her in the woods
Joking aside, I seem to recall Hayes telling me you could remove the lever and lightly grease the pivot. I never tested that, though. I definitely remember how irritating it was, so you aren't alone. Maybe call Hayes and see what they suggest.
Has anyone tested Cura 4s with the new-ish FCS lever? They claim it increases leverage and some reviews indicate it provides more power along with being slightly longer, but I can't seem to find much info aside from the NSMB review. Anyone know how much it changes the leverage and if it's a big improvement?
Also, if anyone wants to add Intend Trinity to the spreadsheet: they claim 17mm pistons, 9.5mm master, and mechanical leverage of 7.3 with overall of 46.78:1. I haven't verified on mine, though.
Yes, I had this problem on one set. I don't think I ever solved it, instead I put them on my wife's bike and it helps me keep track of her in the woods
Joking aside, I seem to recall Hayes telling me you could remove the lever and lightly grease the pivot. I never tested that, though. I definitely remember how irritating it was, so you aren't alone. Maybe call Hayes and see what they suggest.
Mt5 have decent pad retraction, definitely more than Formula on the Cura 2 (I don't know if the 4 differ from the 2 in that matter? Probably not)
Mt7 have less pad retraction than Mt5.
Magura can have lazy piston too. I have had it and manage to mitigate it. There is no spare parts available from magura. Formula on the other hand usually has plenty of spare parts listed. Did you try to get new seals and maybe even new pistons for your Cura caliper?
I'd tag the lack of response to insufficient oil movement rather than lazy pistons. The MC's oil pushing capacity is OK for two-piston calipers, but it's simply not enough for the 4-pot ones. This gets worse as the pads wear out. I've seen Cura 4s with 50% pad wear getting spongy AF and no bleed would get them back to the original tight lever feel.
I'd tag the lack of response to insufficient oil movement rather than lazy pistons. The MC's oil pushing capacity is OK for two-piston calipers, but it's simply not enough for the 4-pot ones. This gets worse as the pads wear out. I've seen Cura 4s with 50% pad wear getting spongy AF and no bleed would get them back to the original tight lever feel.
Is it the rear that's bad?
Like happymtb suggested, it's worth actually replacing the caliper seals - they deform and change in durometer over time which affects retraction and lever feel/response. The pistons should be replaced with the seals if the pistons are non-metal. I'd try it before ditching, often makes a noticeable difference. It is an art to get the new ones in though (if you think the old ones are tight...), take your time.
Not to dismiss the issue slimshady mentioned but if you're happy with one of the brakes (and have new pads) there's likely a problem with the other.
As for the magura caliper, going from 4x18mm -> 4x17mm...
Is it the rear that's bad?
Like happymtb suggested, it's worth actually replacing the caliper seals - they deform and change in durometer over time which affects retraction and lever feel/response. The pistons should be replaced with the seals if the pistons are non-metal. I'd try it before ditching, often makes a noticeable difference. It is an art to get the new ones in though (if you think the old ones are tight...), take your time.
Not to dismiss the issue slimshady mentioned but if you're happy with one of the brakes (and have new pads) there's likely a problem with the other.
As for the magura caliper, going from 4x18mm -> 4x17mm...
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