Isn't there a way to remove that POS? I removed the c-clip, but the bolt didn't come out. Isn't it direct mount or something?
Zee derailleur hanger on the hanger?
- Thread starter Electric_City
- Start date
Hmmm. I guess I'll order a frame to go with the derailleur. Thank you very much for your time and input!
have you tried the BFH?
I'm going to have to. 75-87 in/lb my ass! It must have been assembled with an impact wrench.
Why are you removing it? Have a direct-mount hanger on the frame?
wolf link bro
I was going to try it without that floppy thing on, but I don't think it will work. What's the point of the clutch if the derailleur can still slap around on that thing?
The point is in the high probability of you not being able to remove your rear wheel without that free moving joint/pivot (sorry, don't know the correct word).
B-Link or B-knuckle it is. And you are right, without that said piece the mech wouldn't make it to the higher gears, and the wheel wouldn't come out easily.
To the OP: you'll need to see if the manufacturer of your frame makes a Direct Mount derailleur hanger in order to bolt the mech to it and skip the B-Link, or use the provided B-Link and the standard derailleur hanger.
Ok, I mounted it with the b-link on. The derailleur is a 10spd Zee DH. The shifter is a 10spd Zee also. The cassette is a 10spd 105 11-28.
The shifter shifts for "9 clicks" so it's a 10spd shifter for sure. It goes from 10 to 2 no issues, but it won't go to first. I'm really pushing on the thumb HARD to get that last click, but the derailleur won't move anymore. Chain on or off. The limit screw still has room. It's a 2007 DT Swiss 340 hub and the cassette went on fine. What gives? Fwiw, the cable stretch has nothing to do with it and I'm not "off" clicks cause there is that last one, but it's like the derailleur (with or without the chain) just won't move over anymore.
Edit- All the photos keep saying too large. I'll post some other time if I remember.
The shifter shifts for "9 clicks" so it's a 10spd shifter for sure. It goes from 10 to 2 no issues, but it won't go to first. I'm really pushing on the thumb HARD to get that last click, but the derailleur won't move anymore. Chain on or off. The limit screw still has room. It's a 2007 DT Swiss 340 hub and the cassette went on fine. What gives? Fwiw, the cable stretch has nothing to do with it and I'm not "off" clicks cause there is that last one, but it's like the derailleur (with or without the chain) just won't move over anymore.
Edit- All the photos keep saying too large. I'll post some other time if I remember.
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Just based on the fact that you wanted to install it without the b-link, I'd say you should probably take it to a shop.
The reason I asked about removing the link is because shimano shows you how to remove it in the manual and makes the extra link seem unnecessary. After looking into the direct mount itself, which the manual doesn't explain,it seems like it's absolutely useless as it's just another derailleur hanger.
Yup, and it also makes it easier to damage either the derailleur or the frame, since a direct mount is way more sturdy than the hanger itself. A friend has a Yeti SB95 and he busted his XT derailleur when he catched a branch, while the DM thingy remained almost perfect. I think the RD might have had a chance with a regular hanger. They are far easier to break.
Have you tried to shift into 1st gear without your wheel installed or without a chain? Just to make sure the problem is not related to the shifter and/or cable tension?
Cause what you are describing sounds like your cable tension is either too low and you start with one gear too high from the bottom or their is a problem with shifter.
Cause what you are describing sounds like your cable tension is either too low and you start with one gear too high from the bottom or their is a problem with shifter.
Yeah. I think there's something going on with the derailleur. With the wheel and cassette removed, the shifter does the same thing (10-2 no problem) but it won't go to first. There is the last click, but you have to force it and the derailleur doesn't move. Yet there's 3mm of space between the limit screw and the "stop" that the limit screw hits. Even by hand, without the shifter being used, it won't go any further. The limit screw isn't hitting and it's at least 3/4 of the way in. In other words, if I backed the screw out all the way, the derailleur should go that far. But it won't even get to the limit screw that's in most of the way.
I really wish I could post the pic but rm says the file is too big. Dammit!
I really wish I could post the pic but rm says the file is too big. Dammit!
The quality is schitty, but you can see the space between the limit screw and the stop.
Attachments
How slack is your cable? Leave it like with no tension at all to begin with. If it still happens, maybe the der hanger is bent or somehow the parallelogram got twisted somehow...
Yeah, like I mentioned before, even pushing on it with my hands it won't go in any further.
Well, that kinda confirms the bent der hanger argument. Try to look at it from behind and check its allignmnent.
if you've got clearance on your limit screw then your b-tension screw might be too far in.
Brand new bike and the hanger is straight. The b-limit screw is fine too. There's a lot of clearance. Even in my hands it won't move like it should.
I'm sending it back to Shimano to let them warranty it or do whatever needs to be done to it.
Thanks, EC
I'm sending it back to Shimano to let them warranty it or do whatever needs to be done to it.
Thanks, EC
I'm still not convinced that the derailleur is the problem. It still sounds like you start at 9th gear trigger wise and 10th gear at the derailleur and end at 1st gear trigger wise trying to shift into 0 whil being at 2nd at the derailleur.
Did you unscrew the shifting cable, triggered down into last (10th) gear, pulled slightly on the cable to get it tight and then tightened the cable screw at the derailleur aligned to last (10th) gear again?
No. No, I never tried that. I bet that's the problem.
Re-read post 14 and 19. This one isn't working and is going back to Shimano when my new one gets here (hopefully Friday).
Re-read post 14 and 19. This one isn't working and is going back to Shimano when my new one gets here (hopefully Friday).
Here's the rundown on it again.
Zee 10spd shifter, Zee 10spd derailleur, 105 cassette, DT 340 hub, kmc 10spd chain
The hanger is straight. Brand new, plus I checked it with an alignment gage.
With the shifter in 10 and the derailleur in 10, it shifts flawlessly to second and vice versa.
The shifter has to have excessive force to get the last "click". I only did it once, but the derailleur didn't budge. I immediately let off the pressure on the shifter.
There's still a gap between the limit screw when in second AND when I shifted into first.
The b-limit screw is fine. The jockey pulley isn't obstructing or rubbing the cogs.
The cable is routed correctly thru the derailleur and bolted on the correct side of the bolt.
With the wheel off and the derailleur cable detached, the derailleur still doesn't move past where it did with the wheel in place. I.e. The derailleur limit screw still doesn't touch the stop.
Thinking outside the box, I stepped back to get a look at the big picture. The shifter is, again, in the correct gear and there are 9 "clicks" verifying it's a 10spd shifter.
The cable housing runs smoothly from shifter to derailleur with no kinks. It doesn't tighten up as I run thru the gears either, so there's enough slack.
I took the derailleur off to make sure that a piece of packaging wasn't stuck in there somewhere.
Clutch on or off doesn't make a difference.
The cassette spacing is correct.
The chain line is good too.
The chain isn't too tight. I still have plenty of slack in second gear.
With the wheel in place AND removed, I stepped back and looked from every angle to make sure the derailleur wasn't hitting something (chainstay or something else).
The fact that while on the bike or off, cables or not, wheel or not... That the derailleur won't go as far as the limit screw, points to me that the rear derailleur is the issue.
Last night I put an old ultegra on and free handed it to first gear with no issues at all also points to the fact that the Zee derailleur can't go that far.
I have another one on the way. This one will go back to Shimano.
Ttyl, EC
Zee 10spd shifter, Zee 10spd derailleur, 105 cassette, DT 340 hub, kmc 10spd chain
The hanger is straight. Brand new, plus I checked it with an alignment gage.
With the shifter in 10 and the derailleur in 10, it shifts flawlessly to second and vice versa.
The shifter has to have excessive force to get the last "click". I only did it once, but the derailleur didn't budge. I immediately let off the pressure on the shifter.
There's still a gap between the limit screw when in second AND when I shifted into first.
The b-limit screw is fine. The jockey pulley isn't obstructing or rubbing the cogs.
The cable is routed correctly thru the derailleur and bolted on the correct side of the bolt.
With the wheel off and the derailleur cable detached, the derailleur still doesn't move past where it did with the wheel in place. I.e. The derailleur limit screw still doesn't touch the stop.
Thinking outside the box, I stepped back to get a look at the big picture. The shifter is, again, in the correct gear and there are 9 "clicks" verifying it's a 10spd shifter.
The cable housing runs smoothly from shifter to derailleur with no kinks. It doesn't tighten up as I run thru the gears either, so there's enough slack.
I took the derailleur off to make sure that a piece of packaging wasn't stuck in there somewhere.
Clutch on or off doesn't make a difference.
The cassette spacing is correct.
The chain line is good too.
The chain isn't too tight. I still have plenty of slack in second gear.
With the wheel in place AND removed, I stepped back and looked from every angle to make sure the derailleur wasn't hitting something (chainstay or something else).
The fact that while on the bike or off, cables or not, wheel or not... That the derailleur won't go as far as the limit screw, points to me that the rear derailleur is the issue.
Last night I put an old ultegra on and free handed it to first gear with no issues at all also points to the fact that the Zee derailleur can't go that far.
I have another one on the way. This one will go back to Shimano.
Ttyl, EC
A buddy of mine brought his wife's bike over the other day describing the exact same problem. shimano shifter and derailuer, xt I think.
It was user error and I had it working in 5 minutes.
back out all your limit screws, calibrate shifting, set b limit, set upper limit, set lower limit, go ride bike and enjoy.
It was user error and I had it working in 5 minutes.
back out all your limit screws, calibrate shifting, set b limit, set upper limit, set lower limit, go ride bike and enjoy.
We have at least two of these every week at the workshop.
Some people just can't read...
The replacement derailleur works perfect. Back to Shimano with the other one... Like I posted 2-3 other times but the illiterates couldn't read.
You probably bent/jammed it up trying to remove the B-link and then shifting it against he limit screw too many times 
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Here's the video of the derailleur sticking. you'll see that neither limit screw is touching, yet the cable is loose and the derailleur is holding itself in what's technically gear 2.
A thanks to Shimano for replacing the derailleur. I got the new one and opened the box to make sure it wasn't the same one that i had sent back with the wear mark on the pivot. It wasn't. It also moves freely without getting jammed up!