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What crank for frequent pedal changes ?

preppie

Monkey
Aug 30, 2002
379
0
Europe
Hey,

I have Hussefelt cranks and due the frequent pedal changes the thread inserts are toasted :angry: . I'm looking for a new DH crank that can handle those frequent pedal changes.
I think that the new Hussefelt DH with heat-treated cromoly pedal thread inserts is a good choice ? Or is this just a 'gadget' and not much better then my old cranks ?
Suggestions are very welcome.

thx.
 

SuspectDevice

Turbo Monkey
Aug 23, 2002
4,173
380
Roanoke, VA
This is kind of an odd question, no? I'm assuming you are constantly changing between flats and clipless? Why not just settle on one pedal type then? If you insist on your pedal-changing ways I'd suggest something that is nice hardened chro-mo, like an FSA pounder, profiles, etc... Inserts just fall out of crankarms in my experience...
 

preppie

Monkey
Aug 30, 2002
379
0
Europe
SuspectDevice said:
This is kind of an odd question, no? I'm assuming you are constantly changing between flats and clipless? Why not just settle on one pedal type then?
Ah, yes I'm switching between my Atomlab trailking flats and my CB Mallet C's.
I don't feel comfortable with the mallet C's in some situations so I like to use my flats for the sketchy stuff. (North Shore-hucking-street-DJ-etc.)

So you have bad experiences with inserts, anyone else has this ?
 

w00dy

In heaven there is no beer
Jun 18, 2004
3,417
51
that's why we drink it here
I've never had inserts, but I swear by steel cranks for their longevity and feel alone. I've also never seen the pedal threads strip out on a steel crank, even after breaking several pedal spindles on the same crank arm.
 

Rik

Turbo Monkey
Nov 6, 2001
1,085
1
Sydney, Australia
I'll support the tubular cromo crankarm suggestions... and if weight is a concern, compare the figures, the difference isn't as big as some people make it out to be.
Another option, and I just bought for my MTB, is a copy of the Primo Powerbite crank, called a TuffNeck Overbite. These cranks are tough cnc aluminium, overbuilt like all hell, they have a steel crank insert like the Primo, but the thing that makes the TN stuff better is this insert has a lockring on the back side of the crankarm, making it impossible to unwind. FANTASTIC idea in my books, I hope more companies pay attention to this sort of thing.
 

Zark

Hey little girl, do you want some candy?
Oct 18, 2001
6,254
7
Reno 911
I have the Hussevelts you're asking about. Bent em in a week. Butter crank, but the thread are in great shape with that steel insert!

Suspect, gimme a break. One bike might be good for many things but a pedal switch can better fit the type of riding. A do-all HT might do XC one day and DJ's the next and park the next. Just suffer with flats up the hill? suffer with clipless in the park? Fuk dat man.

This is another example of why we need a QR pedal body standard. Switch flats to clipless in seconds. I wish someone with some engineering background shared my vision...
 

Rik

Turbo Monkey
Nov 6, 2001
1,085
1
Sydney, Australia
I can't imagine something with a QR system being durable enough to hold a pedal on securely. Although I do realise there's some smart guys out there, and it's doable, but at what cost though?
 

Zark

Hey little girl, do you want some candy?
Oct 18, 2001
6,254
7
Reno 911
It would probably be heavier, but I don't know I'm not an engineer, more of an internet engineer consultant ;)
 

w00dy

In heaven there is no beer
Jun 18, 2004
3,417
51
that's why we drink it here
Zark's idea is totally doable, 1 spindle for both pedals, cardridge bearings in the pedals, so they slip on and off the spindle, a burly ratchet-style relase with a ball and a sprung pin could easily be built into the pedal bodies. Crank Bros, I'm looking at you.
 

Zark

Hey little girl, do you want some candy?
Oct 18, 2001
6,254
7
Reno 911
w00dy said:
Zark's idea is totally doable, 1 spindle for both pedals, cardridge bearings in the pedals, so they slip on and off the spindle, a burly ratchet-style relase with a ball and a sprung pin could easily be built into the pedal bodies. Crank Bros, I'm looking at you.
Can I get Amen brother WOOdy? Amen! :D :thumb:
 

preppie

Monkey
Aug 30, 2002
379
0
Europe
Well I like the idea of Zark, that's something I could use. :)

So a 3 piece chromo crank would be the perfect solution.
Well...damn, I just installed a new Giga pipe Team DH BB, so I would like
to keep the BB and find another ISIS drive crank.
My old Husselfelt is still straight, even after 2 years, so I wonder if the
new ones with the chromo inserts are 'different', they are both from forged 6061-T6 right?




pssst... Crank Bros.... Zark found a hole in the mtb-market (don't tell anyone o.k.)
 

Kornphlake

Turbo Monkey
Oct 8, 2002
2,632
1
Portland, OR
What about clip on platforms, Cambria has some on their website, I'm not sure how well they stay clipped in though.

The quick release pedal body thing would be really easy to do if you wanted sloppy pedals all the time. Cartridge bearings are ideally pressed into the pedal body as well as the spindle. There's only one way I could see to make the pedals truly quick release, as in you wouldn't need more than one tool, and for that you'd be looking at a cup and cone, caged bearing design with some type of a nut you'd have to tighten and lock down every time, while you're at it you'd probablly want to re-grease the bearings... essentially you'd be rebuilding your pedals every time you switched from clipless to platform and back.
 

mandown

Poopdeck Repost
Jun 1, 2004
20,290
7,832
Transylvania 90210
i run cromo cranks on my hardtail and swap pedals all the time, no problem. the truvativs that came on my ironhorse sgs (think they were husse) have the inserts and there have been no problems with the threads due to pedal swaps.

i say, find the cranks that have properties you like in cranks (strength/weight/etc) and then see if they have them with steel inserts (unless your decision leads you to cromo).
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,655
1,129
NORCAL is the hizzle
Strange, this is the second thread today about difficulties with pedals...I don't get it, it's just not that hard. Pedals don't need to be tightened so much that you should have problems stripping threads. I don't own one but if you're having troubles overtightening, sounds like you need a torque wrench. Or just use an allen wrench instead of a pedal wrench. Either way use a little grease and you should be fine. Have you ever had a pedal fall off from being too loose? They just don't need to be that tight. :confused:
 

Zark

Hey little girl, do you want some candy?
Oct 18, 2001
6,254
7
Reno 911
It is more of a problem with soft alu cranks (hussefelts, LX). I still see a market for people who swap pedals regularly and shops that run rental fleets (less time swapping pedals is more time ringing up people!) Steel inserts definitly help the wear and tear prob.

Clip-on platforms will make the pedal thicker, which isn't that great to do.

The play problem, no doubt, I can see that being a problem.
 

Rik

Turbo Monkey
Nov 6, 2001
1,085
1
Sydney, Australia
preppie said:
So a 3 piece chromo crank would be the perfect solution.
Well...damn, I just installed a new Giga pipe Team DH BB, so I would like
to keep the BB and find another ISIS drive crank.
You can also buy tubular cromoly crankarms that fit ISIS bottom brackets.

I find it hard to beleive you haven't killed your hussefelts :confused: but, if you haven't, then fair enough... you could try the newer ones, just make sure you put ample threadlock on the steel insert as soon as you buy them. The other option is to helicoil your crankarms, so you have the option of buying any crank. But then, the helicoil does have potential of being fragile too...