Well said.
And yeah, if you can't see behind the jackassery, then you're the jackass. I may have just crossed the line there. But this is RM.
Bike content: I'm teaching the local kids how to corner. It's called mountain bike mondays
This is what's wrong with The Industry™
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And yeah, if you can't see behind the jackassery, then you're the jackass. I may have just crossed the line there. But this is RM.
Bike content: I'm teaching the local kids how to corner. It's called mountain bike mondays
#outofmemes
No doubt there were many books. But AFAIK the film I refer to wasn't taken from one. The novel was written from the screenplay. Ie. After the movie.
Its hit and miss in my experience, two different bikes and same setup and one just never worked out while the other was and still is stellar. Has to be some sort of distance/position from the dropout difference IMO bike to bike.
What cassettes did you use, and what derailleurs? I did X1 RD with both Shimano XT 11-46 and Sunrace 11-46 cassettes and they performed pretty well. The Shimano was maybe a tad more prone to drop a chain when backpedaling in the biggest cogs.
Yeah, a bike's chain growth and chain length affects set up massively. If you look at the arc a SRAM guide pulley moves in as the cage rotates forwards it kinda starts to make more sense as to what chain length will work best and why. IMO you should also completely ignore those plastic SRAM set up tools when setting B tension and instead set it to the optimum distance for each bike.
GX mech Shimano HG cassette
You think? I've always seen this as more of a chainline/angle and latteral chain stiffness issue than down to which particular brand the cassette it is. Chain angle being fairly extreme when in the largest sprocket on ALL wide ratio cassettes even with *perfect chainline. And it's the chainring that's the cause.
* Shimano and SRAM don't even agree with each other on recommended chainline distances
In my experience, the Shimano 11sp XT 11-46 has stupid jumps between the largest cogs (that "rhythm" BS from Shimano). I think what you mentioned about optimum distance between the pulley and the cassette has something to do with backpedaling issues. If you set the B-tension to shift optimally from half the cassette down, the chain can't properly track the largest cogs.
Sunrace cassettes might not have tye smooth shifts of Shimano ones, but they are infinitely better spaced between cogs.
But anyway, 11sp GX and up mechs work pretty well with 46t cog cassettes as you mentioned.
That jump from 37t to 46t on that XT cassette you mention actually makes a lot of sense on an Ebike but IMO way less so on a normaI bike. ie. Ratio wise it's pretty much the same as a 10spd Deore 11-36 but with a 46t bail out gear. Deore 11-36 is my choice for my Emtb as it keeps sprocket sizes closer together at 2t jumps from the 11t right up until the 21t so makes it a little better for keeping an even cadence when pedalling at higher speeds. Plus it also reduces drivetrain wear by reducing shifting stress on the teeth as well as giving a gearing spread you'll be more likely to use evenly rather than overusing and wearing the same certain few sprockets.
If you watch any cassette drop a chain down from the largest sprocket to the smaller sprockets from backpedalling you'll see the chain always derail from the top not the bottom. Much in the way it sometimes would on the underside of a triple chainset when back pedalled while cross chained. So long as your derailleur's guide pulley remains in line with the largest sprocket. Your mech shouldn't really be much of a contributing factor in the chain derailment other than the amount tension it's producing on the chain.Although having said that a sticky clutch and any amount of play in the knuckle at the mounting bolt can be quite detrimental to shifting performance as well as retention while being pedalled backwards. SRAM mechs also pull over to take up the play when that connection is worn but pedalling in reverse can cause them to lose that tension. Spent tons of workshop time over the years (since the introduction of 12spd) figuring out various reasons for punters back pedalling issues. A lot of the time the eventual conclusion is "you're just going to have to stop pedalling backwards in your lowest gear mate"
I should probably have said earlier. All my experience with all 11-46 and larger cassettes is from fitting them to other peoples bikes and test riding them. The largest cassette sprocket I've personally ever run is a 42t. as I prefer pretty much everything about closer ratio cassettes and don't mind having to stand up while climbing or when it gets down to walking pace and lower speeds I've no issue admitting defeat and pushing. I do enjoy the challenge of a difficult/technical climb but once I've cleaned it I'll happily push up it forever more. I have zero interest in ever going 12speed as I've always seen it as a massive downgrade in prefomance with a ridiculous leap in running costs. The back pedalling ghost shift phenomenon of 12 speed simply isn't an issue on smaller range 10 or 11 speed cassettes even when drivetrains are worn to fuck. Not all progress means better performance. Far from it.
It's absolute lunacy that any Emtb comes fitted with an expensive massive range 12speed cassette. Even the 10grand Emtb crowd flinch when you tell them the replacement cost of their fancy cassette after next to fuck all Mileage.
If you watch any cassette drop a chain down from the largest sprocket to the smaller sprockets from backpedalling you'll see the chain always derail from the top not the bottom. Much in the way it sometimes would on the underside of a triple chainset when back pedalled while cross chained. So long as your derailleur's guide pulley remains in line with the largest sprocket. Your mech shouldn't really be much of a contributing factor in the chain derailment other than the amount tension it's producing on the chain.Although having said that a sticky clutch and any amount of play in the knuckle at the mounting bolt can be quite detrimental to shifting performance as well as retention while being pedalled backwards. SRAM mechs also pull over to take up the play when that connection is worn but pedalling in reverse can cause them to lose that tension. Spent tons of workshop time over the years (since the introduction of 12spd) figuring out various reasons for punters back pedalling issues. A lot of the time the eventual conclusion is "you're just going to have to stop pedalling backwards in your lowest gear mate"
I should probably have said earlier. All my experience with all 11-46 and larger cassettes is from fitting them to other peoples bikes and test riding them. The largest cassette sprocket I've personally ever run is a 42t. as I prefer pretty much everything about closer ratio cassettes and don't mind having to stand up while climbing or when it gets down to walking pace and lower speeds I've no issue admitting defeat and pushing. I do enjoy the challenge of a difficult/technical climb but once I've cleaned it I'll happily push up it forever more. I have zero interest in ever going 12speed as I've always seen it as a massive downgrade in prefomance with a ridiculous leap in running costs. The back pedalling ghost shift phenomenon of 12 speed simply isn't an issue on smaller range 10 or 11 speed cassettes even when drivetrains are worn to fuck. Not all progress means better performance. Far from it.
It's absolute lunacy that any Emtb comes fitted with an expensive massive range 12speed cassette. Even the 10grand Emtb crowd flinch when you tell them the replacement cost of their fancy cassette after next to fuck all Mileage.
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Personal preference but any cassette with that 3 tooth jump between 15 and 18t is right where I don't want the bigger jump. With a 36t chainring its right where I'll be when pedalling back to speed out of a lot if the tighter slower corners we have on many local descents. 15, 17, 19 just gives me the perfect choice
My experience is that their shifting performance right around the 15 to 18 to 21 also suffers. Especially noticeable on Sunrace. Coincidence?
Sunrace's HG sprockets also don't seem anywhere near as durable as Shimano's. Shimano >SRAM>Sunrace on that front IMO
Never been a fan of HG cassettes with annoying directional position specific plastic cassette spacers. But that's not something many other folk would ever gripe at.
My experience is that their shifting performance right around the 15 to 18 to 21 also suffers. Especially noticeable on Sunrace. Coincidence?
Sunrace's HG sprockets also don't seem anywhere near as durable as Shimano's. Shimano >SRAM>Sunrace on that front IMO Never been a fan of HG cassettes with annoying directional position specific plastic cassette spacers. But that's not something many other folk would ever gripe at.
In my experience, SRAM has the most durable cassettes, with a rather crude chain passage between cogs. Then Shimano, and last but not least, Sunrace.
Yeah. I'd agree with you in their XD 11 and 12spd variants. Definitely not in 10spd and lower HG. Difficult to comment on the 11 and 12spd NX/SX HG patern cassettes
I was watching a Hambini video because it had the Qvist hub in it, I read in the comments that he sells a 300GBP bottom bracket.
What the shit?! It's a BB with NTN bearings, how can it cost that much?
www.hambini.com
What the shit?! It's a BB with NTN bearings, how can it cost that much?
Hambini Racing BSA Bottom Bracket 30mm Long Axle - Hambini Engineering
This bottom bracket is designed to interface a 30mm Long Axle (90.5mm DBCA) with a bike frame that uses a BSA Bottom Bracket
www.hambini.com
He designs, makes, and sells them himself. If you had his qualifications, how much would you want to earn/hr? How much time is spent on one BB? Comparing prices between mass manufactured parts from Asia and bespoke parts from an area with a much higher cost of living is pointless. As soon as frame makers get their tolerances right and BB makers stop cutting corners people won't be willing to spend that for his BBs and I bet he'll happily stop making them.I was watching a Hambini video because it had the Qvist hub in it, I read in the comments that he sells a 300GBP bottom bracket.
What the shit?! It's a BB with NTN bearings, how can it cost that much?
Hambini Racing BSA Bottom Bracket 30mm Long Axle - Hambini Engineering
This bottom bracket is designed to interface a 30mm Long Axle (90.5mm DBCA) with a bike frame that uses a BSA Bottom Bracket
Half of Hambini's content used to be him sorting out frames with poorly aligned/machined bb shells so they could even take one of his ultra precise BBs. The irony is most of them belonged to Jerrys who'd have been absolutely fine just replacing cheap BBs themselves once a year and and any gainz from the smoother running BB will be meaningless.
It's no different to super expensive suspension components in mtb really
It's no different to super expensive suspension components in mtb really
Yeah, in the video he says that the QVIST hub is really expensive at 420 Euro and later goes on to say that he has 300 Pound BB's.
It's 60 Pounds more for a hub made in Germany over one of his BB's, how much would a Hambini hub cost if he made one?
300 Pounds for a BB is insane when you can buy a 20 Pound version that can still have off the shelf NTN bearings slapped in to it if you so choose, yeah the bearings will be smaller but you can buy a set of Saint cranks with the change.
I haven't looked because I can't handle all the rambling, does he have any results to show that there is a reduction in friction under load?
As a luddite it seems odd to make something so perfect and still have a Delrin sleeve between the spindle and inner race.
My last cranks ran the spindle straight on to the inner race and my armchair engineer brain decided that that was a good way to do it, the BB outlasted the cranks.
EDIT- Should say that they were a 25mm spindle, not one of the big boi spindles that run in the same fashion.
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