What about thoes stupid conix things? Adjust them once, ride 3ft, stop, re-adjust it, repeat.
The worst good component you've purchased
- Thread starter trib
- Start date
Never heard the dubious honour of trying one of them @slimshady
You saved yourself of some serious headaches. I bought a FSA headset in a hurry, when I got a new frame/fork combo. Instead of a regular star nut, it had this stupid contraption. I could never get the headset to have the proper preload. Ended up throwing it away after a weekend.
Crankbrothers anything. I had a set of 50/50 pedals that were the biggest piles of shit. Kenda tires. When I started riding, I would always get sucked in because they were cheap. I didn't think a $50+ plus tire could be that much better than $10 sale Kendas. I was wrong.
Did I mention WTB Weirwolf tires? Eesh. And same for Ardents. Had to lean far over to get them to grab anything.
marzzochi drop off 4 fork
no small bump sensitivity
no small bump sensitivity
Shimano SLX brakes...I have now had 2 sets, one on my old Chromag hardtail and one on my Banshee Spitfire, and both have been absolutely terrifying. Feel great after a bleed for about 2 rides, and then one of the brakes will develop an inconsistent bite point and lose all real power. It's almost like the pads and discs are contaminated...but after swapping pads and rotors on both bikes to remedy the issue, I can confirm it did not solve the problem. My buddy is continually having the same problem with his brakes now as well. I suppose I can give credit to how easy the bleed process was, though...
This thread is about supposedly GOOD parts. That's a low end POS.
E13 42 tooth cog - great idea but unfortunately made out of cheese.
First gen RS Psylo - more stiction then a dried up c*#@
First gen RS Psylo - more stiction then a dried up c*#@
Maxxis HRII. Any casing, bead and compound. All of 'em tooted it up on the trails and slopes.
Interesting. HR II 3C EXO MaxxTerra is in the top three front tires I have had so far here in Mass. Horses for courses I guess.
UST DH Minions. Super expensive and punctured really easily (1-2 runs down the mountain). I bought three and tried two without stans and one with Stans for the same results. It upset me enough that I sent them back to Maxxis (who then performed a product analysis and concluded [in better words] they were damaged by trail obstructions).
You can argue that I am a hack, but I've been running regular dh minions tubeless for years now without getting a flat.
You can argue that I am a hack, but I've been running regular dh minions tubeless for years now without getting a flat.
E13 cranks coming loose all the time for me too. My Xo is in the mail.
MY 2012 and 2013 RS Lyrik forks:
Introducing the new proprietary 108x20mm Axle standard. I measured 15 forks
from friends and online retailers and all were 108mm +-0,3mm wide. To fix the problem RS invented a X9 Hub for the 110x20mm standard, being 108mm wide (search online its true!). Trying to warranty the faulty castings failed as Sram Schweinfurt (Germany) sent a tech drawing of the fork with a listed tolerance of +-2mm for the 110mm spacing of the fork.
Mission control Dampers:
A damper so miserably executed that a simple and mediocre executed charger damper is a real upgrade when working instead of leaking thru the shaft seal.
MY 2011 Turner 5 Spot:
The bushing tolerances on both of our frames were this bad, you needed no comp damping in the shock as the bushings were binding this much (is this why these were specced with low fox tunes from DW?). Even after mounting replacement bushings from Turner we had to hone the bushings to get the rear end move halfway decent. After about 2 Month the rear ends were binding again. After a long conversation with the maker of the bushings it was clear that the bushings were swelling from water and therefore binding again! Not to mention riding in the winter required the next "calibration" of the bushings. For decent funktion over 2000km in on year the bushings had to get honed 4 times!
Oh I forgot: On both 5-Spots the 10.9 shock bolts snapped while standing in living room
DT 240, 440 and Hügi FR rear hubs:
Four cracked shells within 3 years. One shell even cracked while stored in a cold garage unridden.
RS Reverb:
Getting about 10-15mm of squishy suspension within 300km of winter usage (3 times warrantied and afterwards refunded)
Thomson dropper Post:
The above fail out of the box (two times warantied with faulty units). Note to me:
Thomson products are nearly undestructible and prefect manufactured but need to be without moving parts!
Cane Creek DB air (low vol aircan):
Outer aircan cracked on two different length shocks nearly destroiing frame and rider (replaced under warranty with high volume can. Maybee higher wall thickness there?).
Five Ten Impact:
The paper card inside a shoe made for outdoor activities (also available on about 10 further Five Ten models).
Continental Kaiser Projekt 2.40:
Half the grip of a Maxxis Minion F or DHR II at half the wear lifespan.
Continental Rubber Queen 2.40BC:
Casings getting deformed within 50km of usage on a 1050g folding tire (warrantied 5 times)
POC DH shorts:
Lasted 10 minutes of DH riding without crash before opening a large venting hole to shrinkle my nuts.
Shimano Brakes:
810, 875, 988 all work perfect for about 6 to 9 month. Afterwards leaking, sucking air from the master zylinder,
inconsitant bitepoint. All fails that never happened to shimano brakes before second generation Saint and XT.
After listing so much premium components:
No, I dont have a subscription on faulty equipment. Its only one of about 20 products bought thats really awful but this one is often able to suck so bad I forget about the 19 stellar working components. In general CS in Europe is this bad, you have to kill or bin the parts before they kill you.
Introducing the new proprietary 108x20mm Axle standard. I measured 15 forks
from friends and online retailers and all were 108mm +-0,3mm wide. To fix the problem RS invented a X9 Hub for the 110x20mm standard, being 108mm wide (search online its true!). Trying to warranty the faulty castings failed as Sram Schweinfurt (Germany) sent a tech drawing of the fork with a listed tolerance of +-2mm for the 110mm spacing of the fork.
Mission control Dampers:
A damper so miserably executed that a simple and mediocre executed charger damper is a real upgrade when working instead of leaking thru the shaft seal.
MY 2011 Turner 5 Spot:
The bushing tolerances on both of our frames were this bad, you needed no comp damping in the shock as the bushings were binding this much (is this why these were specced with low fox tunes from DW?). Even after mounting replacement bushings from Turner we had to hone the bushings to get the rear end move halfway decent. After about 2 Month the rear ends were binding again. After a long conversation with the maker of the bushings it was clear that the bushings were swelling from water and therefore binding again! Not to mention riding in the winter required the next "calibration" of the bushings. For decent funktion over 2000km in on year the bushings had to get honed 4 times!
Oh I forgot: On both 5-Spots the 10.9 shock bolts snapped while standing in living room
DT 240, 440 and Hügi FR rear hubs:
Four cracked shells within 3 years. One shell even cracked while stored in a cold garage unridden.
RS Reverb:
Getting about 10-15mm of squishy suspension within 300km of winter usage (3 times warrantied and afterwards refunded)
Thomson dropper Post:
The above fail out of the box (two times warantied with faulty units). Note to me:
Thomson products are nearly undestructible and prefect manufactured but need to be without moving parts!
Cane Creek DB air (low vol aircan):
Outer aircan cracked on two different length shocks nearly destroiing frame and rider (replaced under warranty with high volume can. Maybee higher wall thickness there?).
Five Ten Impact:
The paper card inside a shoe made for outdoor activities (also available on about 10 further Five Ten models).
Continental Kaiser Projekt 2.40:
Half the grip of a Maxxis Minion F or DHR II at half the wear lifespan.
Continental Rubber Queen 2.40BC:
Casings getting deformed within 50km of usage on a 1050g folding tire (warrantied 5 times)
POC DH shorts:
Lasted 10 minutes of DH riding without crash before opening a large venting hole to shrinkle my nuts.
Shimano Brakes:
810, 875, 988 all work perfect for about 6 to 9 month. Afterwards leaking, sucking air from the master zylinder,
inconsitant bitepoint. All fails that never happened to shimano brakes before second generation Saint and XT.
After listing so much premium components:
No, I dont have a subscription on faulty equipment. Its only one of about 20 products bought thats really awful but this one is often able to suck so bad I forget about the 19 stellar working components. In general CS in Europe is this bad, you have to kill or bin the parts before they kill you.
You broke the shock bolt that due to the 3D linkages, is pretty much the shortest possible bolt you can have on a bike. That is impressive! I bent the long Foes and Azonic bolts all the time, in addition to a few others, and it was always because the bolt was designed way too long and under too much leverage. To break or bend such a small bolt is impressive, congrats!
Turner is also known for stupidly using M6 hardware instead of M8 hardware, and sizing the length such that one of the shear planes occurs right between the base of the threads and the shoulder/shank of the bolt.
no,
I did not brake these M6 bolts, the upper bolts of both Turner frames cracked with a loud "ping" while the frames were in the orginal packing from Turner. Frames were delivered from a cold UPS car into a warm living room and about 30 minutes later both bolts snapped. When opening the packing I was lucky to see it was only the bolts but there was a small disruption of the "future-Homer-Force" to see parts of the "mostindestructibletrailbikeeva" fail
just lying around.
Man was I wrong by stating it could not come worse frome there on!
this isn't enough of a thermal difference to cause the kind damage you're describing without some other underlying issue. unless you live in like, Antarctica
Well, the whole thing about the turner bushing system is that it requires high tolerances, something that the mass produced frame makers don't want to take the time to do, so dave himself has said that the process of specing the tolerances for their bushings makes the frames more expensive than others and I have no reason to doubt him. The whole reason they got a good reputation was for longevity of frames and the quality and attention to detail. I'm sure there was something seriously wrong with your frame, but I can't say that's indicative of Turner, but alas, I guess it fits with this thread. It sound more like your frame got run over by a truck while being shipped. I also know of Turner's customer service, experiencing it first hand, and I can't imagine that he wouldn't have taken care of you and that issue. Gave me a new larger size mainframe because I snapped the seat-tube due to running a ridiculous amount of exposed seatpost, which was totally my fault.
Not to mention the speed at which it occurs in free (non-forced) convection.
Your post is hilariously accurate on all fronts.
Current Shimano brakes are rubbish (50% failure rate in my experience) and I can't wait to get rid of the last set I own. Just in case you were wondering, your experiences also apply to 820, 8000, 9000 etc. They also develop leaks from the caliper seals, and you can't buy/replace the seals. Some users think they are contaminating pads and keep buying new pads. The last reliable brake products from Shimano were indeed the 800 and 765, along with the 755.
I also had my Hugi FR / 440 hub shells crack. Premium quality rubbish.
more like Mr DerpGreat thread!
This piece of shit has to be highlight for me! It failed in all aspects
Most, if not all, pre E13 chainguides were trainwrecks in those days. It was frustrating when the chainguides would jam so bad the only way to fix it was to take off the damn bashguard or guide, leading to the question of "why exactly am I running a chainguide?" I had the Mr Dirt. Pretty much most stuff in those days either barely worked or didn't really work.
Worst part I have every purchased by far, even beats the dhx air 5.0. They clipped in and unclipped at very random spots and actually required the "pins" to hold your leg because if your foot wasn't held from moving sideways the pedal didn't either and it unclipped. Ended up loosing 30s on a race run when I crashed 15m from the finish line and I couldn't stand up because couldn't unclip. A friend ordered them with me, hated them as much. They literally made me ride flats since then.