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The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section

Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by S.K.C., Oct 17, 2006.

  1. NAUGHTY SHORTY New Member

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    thanks for that, gives me a better starting point.
  2. DrSouce169 New Member

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    Any chance you could sell me just the linkage? :) Good luck with the sale if I had the money I'd buy the whole frame from ya.
  3. Philbo194 New Member

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    Sorry just selling the frames as a whole.

    Phil
  4. DrSouce169 New Member

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    Figured as much, doesn't hurt to ask. Good luck with the sale.
  5. Electric_City Member

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    Does anyone know what the stack and reach is on an 07 Sunday elite is? I'm looking for a new frame and want to compare. Thanks, EC
    Ps, I searched this site and Google, but there's no direct answers.
  6. bengxe Member

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  7. Electric_City Member

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  8. bengxe Member

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    I dont remember the number right now, but I've answered that same question in this thread before. All medium sundays should have the same geometry.
  9. Gary Member

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    Just to confuse matters not all 17" Sundays are medium. Some small Sunday frames have eactly the same length seat tube as a medium
  10. kuzlich New Member

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    Some spy pic of my Sunday. Still wait for the seatpost and chain :(
  11. adstock New Member

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    Well, my 05 bottom link and end caps are all worn out and marred up. I have no problem sourcing an 07-09 link but does anyone know where I can get the 07-09 caps and shaft, stateside? I don't feel like spending $75 USD + shipping from the UK..






    edit: Carnage shots



    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  12. the_maxis_233 Member

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  13. kotajack New Member

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    So the rc4 seems to be the best for this bike. Can someone tell me if there are different tunes with the rc4 that I might buy mail order? If there are different tunes which one do I want for the sunday? Any idea which steel spring for a 170 lb rider

    I have read 200 pages of posts and dont have enough time to finish right now. Tons of info
  14. DMdh Member

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    there arent different tunes of the rc4.
  15. msaman New Member

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    As the guy above told you there are no different tunes for RC4.That's the best shock for the frame and the difference is night and day comparing to stock DHX 3 or 5.
    There is info on the 1st page about spring rates and weight but my advice is just experiment with it :)
    Try 350 and if it's a bit stiff for you go to 300 lbs .
    I am running 350 on RC4 and I weight 155 lbs geared up.It's all personal preference and depends how you like your bike If you like to pop over roots and roocks go for stiffer spring.
    As Udi wrote this many times I will repeat his words "always run bottom out closed (closed it first and after that put 150 psi in the chamber) !!! "
  16. tosam New Member

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    Hello guys,

    My sunday is in progress !
    I have just put a 888 rc3 evo Ti, pure pleasure !
    I wait my RC4 and my BOS linkage



  17. kuzlich New Member

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    With dual crown fork looks much better, GRATZ!
  18. kotajack New Member

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    thanks guys. I did not think there were different tunes for the rc4 but just wanted to make sure. I have been stuck in air shock land for quite a few years now
  19. ritche Member

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    Latest kashima RC4 i bought for my sunday has a sticker: "compression tune F", i have ridden it and it's OK for me.

    I think it was mentioned here the sunday requires a "low compression tune" shox.

    *Does it mean, I should have bought the "compression tune L"?.

    From what i have read 2012/2013 FOX shox both air and coil have 3 compression tune and 3 rebound tunes
    therefore there are total of 9 combinations of rebound and compression tune.

    F = firm
    M = medium
    L = low/light

    Rockshox also have their tune.

    Nowadays bike manufacturer specify the tune of the shox best suited for the frame.

    Basically, no more off the shelf/ 2nd hand shox shopping on e-bay!

    So, what is the tune of fox RC4 shock do we need for the sunday?
  20. Dodgysam New Member

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    Walked into my local bike shop today to pick up zerode and saw this just sitting there looking all lonely.




    A prototype sunday without the DW link.
    We arent sure how the owner came upon it as we are in NZ, but it sure is a nice bike!
  21. Mo(n)arch Well-Known Member

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    Looks like a Trek.:D
  22. Owennn New Member

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    There was one on Ebay a few weeks ago.
  23. kuzlich New Member

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    Need new saddle, pedals and gips.
  24. richgardiner Member

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    sick but de-sticker those rims!
  25. Rocko Member

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    + change the ugly saddle.
  26. Dsunday New Member

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    Ive searched and can only find one person sayin the lower 22mm hex bolts are standard left to loosen threads.
    can anyone confim this?
    just i am after breaking on side of my drive side one. i had it soaking overnight too in wd40 :-/

    Anyway i am having real trouble with the lower link shock removal.
    the 4mm bolts are removed and i cant get the shock pink out or the 22mm hex bolts loosened.

    can someone confirm the shock bin removes away from the drive side.
    ie. i have a bolt screwed in the driveside as shown and i am hammering down on the drive side expecting the split pin to come out the non drive side.

    Im going to get a 6point 22mm socket and leverage bar and some heat on the 22mm's next.

    anyone else have these two problems?
    I really hate the hardware on the sundays even though i love the bike....

    any help much appreciated..

    Attached Files:

  27. Udi Active Member

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    Both 22mm Hex bolts are standard thread.
    There's nothing wrong with the Sunday hardware, but if those hexes are loctited in, they will be a nightmare to get out. Best to just lightly grease the threads on those on installation.

    The best suggestion I can give is to grind down the face of your 22mm socket if you haven't already, so there is maximum contact area on the hex and therefore less chance of rounding them out. If there's any chance loctite has been used, a blowtorch will weaken the bond.

    And yes, the shock pin removes away from the drive side - when you remove the scews you can see which side of the pin is bigger (the bigger side, which should be on non-drive, has a slit through it so the pin can expand when the bolt is screwed in). The only reason it would be the other way is if the previous owner installed the hexes incorrectly, however you can check that as I described.

    Once you're sure you have the orientation correct, screw a long screw into the pin, and give it a good whack with a hammer.
  28. Dsunday New Member

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    Cheers UDI, really appreciate that.
    when i mention the hardware i mean the bolts mainly. I have replaced a good few as the originals are made of cheese compared to most bikes.

    yes my split pin is on non drive side. i have let it soak and tried 'shock and unlock' spray and threaded in a long bolt to drive side and givin it about 15 heavy whacks of a rubber mallet and no joy.
    not even a mm of movement.

    this was why I was trying to loosen the 22mm hex's. thought it might free up the shock pin but now they're being a pain also.
    I'll try get heat on them with a 6point socket grinded down and a leverage bar.

    good to know they are normal thread though. must be the loctite keeping them there.
  29. Udi Active Member

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    You need to use a hammer for the pin like I said, not a rubber mallet. If you are using a long bolt threaded in a good way there's no risk of damaging any part of the frame anyway, and using a mallet will just absorb instead of transferring the force. A good hard hit with a hammer will dislodge the pin, goes without saying that it should be greased upon reinstall.

    If you can get a friend to hold the socket wrench tight against the hex as you lever it may help if it is really stubborn. Lots of leverage is great, but you have to be careful to not slip off it. Grinding the socket flat helps a lot though.

    Worst case scenario a blowtorch will usually free things up, and in some cases it can prevent damage to components that would otherwise strip or have their heads damaged. It's up to you though obviously.
  30. Dsunday New Member

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    ah yes makes sense i guess.. try a break the bod with a deadblow shock.
    ill give it a go this evening.
    ill grind down the socket too.

    cheers udi for your help.
  31. ritche Member

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    Is that Ben Reid's Sunday?
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
  32. Marius New Member

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  33. ogame New Member

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    I have the opportunity to mount a rc2, really worth paying another 100 € and mount rc4?

    hydraulically the two are equal?

    I do not understand the differences between the HSC and put air in the chamber bootsvalve.

    In my old dhx 5, each regulation was differentiated,but in a rc4 regulations of stroke end don't mix?
  34. Dsunday New Member

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    Legend UDI, what was i thinking with the mallet? straight out with the hammer no bother.

    Actually the dhx5 is obviously a custom tune for reid hence the gold caps and its time for a service/tune.
    anyone know what might be done to it as i dnt want to loose and custom tune as it been running real well.
    have mailed reid but no joy, might try him again.

    yes ritche, its reids old bike. still going strong. 386377_10151341667251354_1067029373_n.jpg 530961_10151341667551354_1141146213_n.jpg
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
  35. Udi Active Member

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    Short answer is that the RC2 will work fine.
    The RC2 is missing the HSC adjuster (silver dial) and the chamber volume adjustment (large blue dial). The LSC/HSC adjusters are independent of the boostvalve pressure and volume adjustments for the most part. The former adjusters just control speed sensitive damping, while the BV pressure and volume dictate the position sensitive component (which is also speed sensitive, but might be simpler to ignore that for now). The effects of pressure and volume overlap, however decreasing the volume instead of increasing the pressure allows less beginning stroke compression damping, and more ending stroke compression damping; which is better for the Sunday than more of both.

    The HSC adjustment in the RC2 is set to the equivalent of about 6-8 clicks from open, which is a sufficiently good setting so there's no huge need to adjust it. The volume component however is useful on the Sunday and you'll miss out on that, however it's quite easy to control the volume in the boost chamber by either raising the IFP depth to reduce volume (if you are comfortable with rebuilding the DHX line of shocks), or simply adding a small amount of oil to the air chamber (I'd suggest no more than 5ml). But try it stock first, you might be happy with it as-is.

    Good to hear it worked. Nice ride.
  36. ogame New Member

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    thank you very much UDI
    Now I understand the differences.
    It could take the bootsvalve dial of a rc4 and install on the rc2?
  37. 300hp New Member

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    Yo, OG Sunday gurus:

    I have a 2005 Factory (USA frame). It's time to get er' spruced up with bearings. I've read the first page of the thread, but I wanted to double check if the commonly available (read, enduro) bearing kits, or lists of bearing sizes in this thread to make your own kits are still compatible with my frame? Since it was an early version, I don't know if some minor tweaks to the linkages were made when the frame really took off in 2006.

    my frame has a grey/gunmetal lower link (we modded it to fit an RC4 a few seasons ago, no issues with it)

    Thanks to all who have compiled info here, knowing I can keep working on this bike and keep it running well is awesome.

    Hunter.
  38. 300hp New Member

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    oh. Since I pulled this from another thread, if you're looking to run an RC4 on your Sunday, per Steve M's instructions, this is a good place to start with base settings (thanks, Steve!). I added a bit of my own info too.

    (all settings are clicks OUT from full IN)

    Reb: 5 clicks out (range is about 12 clicks)

    LSC: 8 clicks out (range is about 18 clicks)

    HSC: 8 clicks out (range is about 12 clicks)

    Bottom out: Full IN, then set pressure to 175-200psi

    in ref to running an RC2 vs RC4, you can see that the baseline setting for the RC4 is pretty damn close to your baseline on the RC4. If you can save a good bit of money, it's certainly not a bad way to go. Maybe, if Udi is feeling real nice like, he can tell you what he set the IFP depth to on his RC2 to emulate an RC4 with bottom out full in. If you figure that out, for sure get the cheaper one and save some cash (I'm guessing somewhere in the 32-34mm range from the top of the piggyback, but that's purely based on messing with my Roco's, and what the factory setting for DHX 5.0s is)

    Hope that helps someone.
    Hunter
  39. the_maxis_233 Member

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  40. csermonet Member

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    *SPAM* I have the red lower link from a 2006 Sunday, and the upper linkage plates as well. Also have one of the pivot axles, I'll have to check and see which pivot it is for exactly. Here is a picture of exactly the items I have. Are in usable condition, although the bearings in the linkage could stand to be replaced. Other than not looking pretty, all parts are able to be used. Make an offer if you are interested. Don't have any Sunday frames anymore so they just sit in my boneyard for parts. They deserve more than that! Buyer pays shipping, would prefer to not deal with international shipping but if buyer pays for it I am not opposed.

    picture - http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/8975263/
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013