Quantcast

The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section

BmxConvert

Monkey
Aug 6, 2007
715
0
Longview, Washington
Some days I don't feel like riding my full-on DH bike. There are a couple of race courses where I would prefer a shorter travel, lighter more nimble bike aka: the mini-DH steed. Sure I could fuss about swapping tires and wheels and angle-set cups but I had my 6point which uses an 83mm bb and 150mm rear end along with the same DW link suspension. I short shocked it with a 8.5x2.5 vs. the 8.75x2.5 stock shock(changed the HA to 66.5deg), swapped in a Mission Control DH damper and I had my mini-dh bike. I am still waiting on a coil shock to arrive and I need to install longer lines on my XT brakes and then it's done.

Sunday with 2 opposing angleset cups and forks raised all the way up in the crown measures out to 61.5deg. Slack. I'm tempted to bump it back to 63*.
Full dh:




Mini-dh:



 

BmxConvert

Monkey
Aug 6, 2007
715
0
Longview, Washington
22" ETT w/ a setback post. Granted I'm 5'5", but it fits me fine even with a 50mm stem. That's right in the ballpark with most other small frames.
I love my 6point. It's a fantastic ride. I would however hate to have to ride with a setback seatpost. I much prefer the steeper(or in this case normal) seat tube angle. The effective top tube is only valid when seated. The "reach" measurement is still a full inch shorter than the effective top tube measurement when using a setback post.
The seat angle/short tt is where IH missed the mark on the 6point frames. Luckily I prefer shorter 23" top tubes but have a 35" inseam so the large with a straight post is ideal for me at 5'11" with my weird body.
 

frgeoff

Chimp
Feb 3, 2009
60
6
agreed, 6point is an epic bike. I got addicted to DW-link first with a 19" 6 point, then I bought a 17" 6point to try the geo but top tube was too small for me. Then I went to a 17" 7point (this bike is under rated for trail riding, negligible weight increase over the 6pt) and ride that / the 19" 6point for longer up days. Fwiw compared to the sunday I also have a 17" and 19" sunday, i prefer the 17" but riding both currently. The 19" sunday is wayyy bigger than the 19" 6point obviously, but i want to try a 19" 7point next
 
Last edited:

ritche

Monkey
Dec 3, 2011
311
19
just wondering, is it ok to short shocked a sunday?

or is it better use an air shox, to use it as a trail/ mini dh bike?
 
Last edited:

BmxConvert

Monkey
Aug 6, 2007
715
0
Longview, Washington
agreed, 6point is an epic bike. I got addicted to DW-link first with a 19" 6 point, then I bought a 17" 6point to try the geo but top tube was too small for me. Then I went to a 17" 7point (this bike is under rated for trail riding, negligible weight increase over the 6pt) and ride that / the 19" 6point for longer up days. Fwiw compared to the sunday I also have a 17" and 19" sunday, i prefer the 17" but riding both currently. The 19" sunday is wayyy bigger than the 19" 6point obviously, but i want to try a 19" 7point next
Curious that you mention that. I've been thinking of trying to track down a 19" Sunday to test ride. I'm on a 17" right now and it feels good most of the time except when I need to pedal/out of the gate and such.
 

sundaydoug

Monkey
Jun 8, 2009
609
271
I love my 6point. It's a fantastic ride. I would however hate to have to ride with a setback seatpost. I much prefer the steeper(or in this case normal) seat tube angle. The effective top tube is only valid when seated. The "reach" measurement is still a full inch shorter than the effective top tube measurement when using a setback post.
Yea, I'm not really a fan of setback posts either. I thought that with a straight post on this frame it would feel a bit cramped, even for me. I use it as a trailbike, so I'm seated most of the time. When I'm out of the saddle and on the gas with this bike the short reach is more noticeable.

Sick bike for sure though. It's going to pain me to get rid of it.
 
Last edited:

bengxe

Monkey
Dec 19, 2011
211
30
upstate NY
just wondering, is it ok to short shocked a sunday?

or is it better use an air shox, to use it as a trail/ mini dh bike?
No, short shocking is not a good idea. The fender mount bridge on the rear triangle almost hits the front triangle at bottom out of a 9.5x3, so you cant go any lower than that. If you went to a 8.75" shock youd have to limit the stroke to 2.25.
I like my vector air, I think the sunday leverage curve works well with an air shock.
 

rocko_n82

Chimp
Nov 13, 2012
3
0
Hi, followed the thread for a few years but never posted. Just bought my second Sunday frame after having one a few years ago and loving it. Managed to find a brand new one! image.jpg

Hoping to get some set up tips for my vivid.

Thanks
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
Nah, I believe that's the '08 Factory in black anodize.

It's the only anodized-from-factory Sunday frame you could buy, and in my opinion the nicest one of all the models released. Enjoy.
 

sundaydoug

Monkey
Jun 8, 2009
609
271
Nah, I believe that's the '08 Factory in black anodize.

It's the only anodized-from-factory Sunday frame you could buy, and in my opinion the nicest one of all the models released. Enjoy.
My bike needs this paint. Very nice indeed.
 

rocko_n82

Chimp
Nov 13, 2012
3
0
Nah, I believe that's the '08 Factory in black anodize.

It's the only anodized-from-factory Sunday frame you could buy, and in my opinion the nicest one of all the models released. Enjoy.
Yeah 2008 factory, anodized. Just finished building her up tonight. Still not sure on vivid setup though... Any pointers.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
Maybe someone can chime in with exact settings, but my general suggestions would be to make sure you have the sag right first with the correct spring rate (30-33%), and below for damper settings.

Compression: Start with it all the way out, or with fairly little say 1-2 clicks, and add more if you feel like the rear is wallowing too much in g-outs or bottoming out excessively even though you have correct sag. Back it off if the ride is getting too harsh.

End-Stroke Rebound: Depends on spring rate. As a general rule on the Vivid and CCDB I've found that running more HS / ending stroke rebound and less LS / beginning stroke yields a fairly high traction and fast responding setup that still doesn't kick or buck excessively on jumps. I think 1/2 - 2/3 of the available range would be a good starting point, and if the bike is feeling kicky from deep compressions, add more.

Beginning-Stroke Rebound: To taste. As a general rule the rebound speed on the rear should always be slightly slower than the front (fork).
 

BmxConvert

Monkey
Aug 6, 2007
715
0
Longview, Washington
Hoping to get some set up tips for my vivid.

Thanks
I'm not sure of the differences between the tune that comes with a Sunday Vivid and a Medium or B tune Vivid but...
I'm on a B tune with the both the beginning and ending stroke rebound cranked as slow as possible. Compression is off completely.
I'm 160lbs on a 400lb spring.
I need to switch to a 350lb when I do a week at Whistler now that my hands have such terrible tendonitis but the 400 is good for my local trails and the Port Angeles/Hood races.
 

rocko_n82

Chimp
Nov 13, 2012
3
0
Maybe someone can chime in with exact settings, but my general suggestions would be to make sure you have the sag right first with the correct spring rate (30-33%), and below for damper settings.

Compression: Start with it all the way out, or with fairly little say 1-2 clicks, and add more if you feel like the rear is wallowing too much in g-outs or bottoming out excessively even though you have correct sag. Back it off if the ride is getting too harsh.

End-Stroke Rebound: Depends on spring rate. As a general rule on the Vivid and CCDB I've found that running more HS / ending stroke rebound and less LS / beginning stroke yields a fairly high traction and fast responding setup that still doesn't kick or buck excessively on jumps. I think 1/2 - 2/3 of the available range would be a good starting point, and if the bike is feeling kicky from deep compressions, add more.

Beginning-Stroke Rebound: To taste. As a general rule the rebound speed on the rear should always be slightly slower than the front (fork).
Thanks Udi. I'm 73kg with gear on and have a 300lbs spring in it at the moment, it felt pretty good yesterday but I've only ridden it once. It's such a change from the M9 I had before.
image.jpg
 

Huck Banzai

Turbo Monkey
May 8, 2005
2,523
23
Transitory
Although I don't have a Sunday, I love this thread.

Every year I see people swapping for new bikes, all new kit, gear etc -- I wont characterize.

Im going into year 3 of my v10c and it's still one of the most sought after frames; aside from scuffs, it is, and can be absolutely perfect mechanically for years to come -- I expect at least 5 of use - and it will still be excellent after the fact.

My 2007 VPFree is short shocked and still in service, running as well as new. As is my 2002 Chameleon.




And the same for cars.


bravo!

Too bad they didnt make real XL Sunday's or I might have to grab one and play this game.
 
Last edited:

Rocko

Chimp
Jan 11, 2009
56
2
Hi everyone!

Looks I have just bought a Sunday and I'm trying to rebulid it. I almost have to replace all of the bearings and I have a little problem with the lower link bearing (at the shock) which I don't understand completely. When I removed the retaining bolts bearings came out with them.
Is it normal?
When I thighten them back, looks they don't go deep enought into their places and streches the link. So the the sock has a lateral play, not to mention the bearings unsmooth run.
 

Marius

Chimp
Jul 4, 2011
51
0
Germany
It`s definitely not normal that the bearing comes out with the bolts!! Is the frame still originally painted or does it have a new painting? I have more space now due to removing the old paint, I had to glue the bearings to stay in place.
 

Rocko

Chimp
Jan 11, 2009
56
2
It's the original paint. There's no paint in the bearing's place.
I have a friend who can make me new bolts. So I can install new bearings and grease the new bolts prevent the above mentioneds.
 

Marius

Chimp
Jul 4, 2011
51
0
Germany
@sundaydoug: a bit of loctite on the outside of the bearing and then pressed in. It won`t fall out and runs perfect and smooth.
 

csermonet

Monkey
Mar 5, 2010
942
127
I have some misc Sunday linkage bits, the plates, both the upper and lower link, and some other stuff I believe. I'll post a pic sometime today. Shoot me a private message with an offer if interested, not looking to make a lot of $$, more interested in just being able to help a Sunday owner. I'm now riding a dw DHR but my Sunday served me well and would like to pass some of that on to you guys!
 

sundaydoug

Monkey
Jun 8, 2009
609
271
@sundaydoug: a bit of loctite on the outside of the bearing and then pressed in. It won`t fall out and runs perfect and smooth.
Bearing retainer compound is one thing, but I was picturing someone using actual glue to hold bearings in. Like Elmer's glue.
 
Last edited:

richgardiner

Monkey
Aug 19, 2008
224
26
After a year of trying to kid myself that I was comfortable on my 2010 demo, it looks like I'm going back to a sunday, and I cant bloody wait! Has anyone tried using a shock with a slightly shortened stroke on the frame? I know the cross brace in the rear end would hit the seat tube so that would have to be cut away slightly.

Also, to people who have cut out the uprights either side of the shock, how much did you cut out? Was it a dremel job?
Cheers!
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
Short shock is a bad idea because of the way dw-link works - the antisquat percentage starts off quite high and then starts falling away after the sag point, which is why you get a combination of excellent acceleration and no perceivable kickback from the pedals. Change the sag point and you change that relationship. For whatever it's worth, the cross-brace meets the seat tube pretty much square, so it would most likely have to be cut completely if at all.

I also think it's a bad idea because the BB on the Sunday doesn't need to be any lower, especially when slacker cups drop the BB a bit anyway. What I would do instead is throw in whatever cups you need to get the head angle you desire (-2* if needed). I think with a 40 fork and -2* you can get it slack enough for anything really.

As for the cutouts - just mark it out and then dremel it, I think most people followed my cutout pattern, and I just copied what was on Sam Hill's bike (and took away a small amount more).

 

BmxConvert

Monkey
Aug 6, 2007
715
0
Longview, Washington
After a year of trying to kid myself that I was comfortable on my 2010 demo, it looks like I'm going back to a sunday, and I cant bloody wait! Has anyone tried using a shock with a slightly shortened stroke on the frame? I know the cross brace in the rear end would hit the seat tube so that would have to be cut away slightly.

Also, to people who have cut out the uprights either side of the shock, how much did you cut out? Was it a dremel job?
Cheers!
Funny, I dumped my 2010 Demo to go back to my Sunday as well.

I just got an RC4 for my bike so it's time to do a winter tear down. New fork, new rear shock, new bearings, new paint and new wheels. Before I send the frame out for paint, I'm going to dremel out the up-rights. I'll take pictures along the way.