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The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section

szacsi72

Chimp
Jan 14, 2015
69
5
Hungary
That's a good point it's too clean, hopefully it won't be after this Sunday.

I am a graphic designer and couldn't get a vector logo for iron horse or dwlink so I had to redraw them in illustrator.

There UV printed on 650 mic PVC and then CAD cut out.There are three other older Sunday's in my mtb club and I need to see if they fit, so I am going to do a few generic versions as well as the WC. Then I might put up a few for sale as set on eBay.

The iron horse head tube badge will be in place of the WC logo.

Thanks for asking
Notify me if you make it. For sure I will buy one!
 

saruti

Turbo Monkey
Oct 29, 2006
1,167
73
Israel
hi guys
has anyone here found a place to buy a 3 degree offset headset?
I emails Works, and they didnt abswer.

thanks
 

hitar_potar

Monkey
Sep 23, 2011
173
6
Ruse, Bulgaria
Hi,
Had mine custom-built for me by a company here in Bulgaria, by my specs. It's compatable with almost every frame with 1.5 headtube, but it's best suited on a Sunday because of the headtube's length of 127mm (this is important for an angleset). The price was around 35-40 euros. I had several sets done for me and friends. I am pretty sure there is 1 set that's left and noone is using. But as i said, i'm from Bulgaria. :)
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,031
5,921
borcester rhymes
just an fyi, but i successfully ran an angleset with two -1.5* cups (forward on bottom, back on top) for a year on a few bikes. I didn't measure the final angle, but it was pretty slack.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,031
5,921
borcester rhymes
Upper was -1.5, lower was -1.5 (reversed, so it was +1.5). I ran it in a large IH Yakuza for about a year before I found five cracks in it. I assembled the thing out of my own parts, so you might have to finagle it, but you could also run a -2.0 on top and a -1.5* on the bottom from the same kit to get -3.5.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,031
5,921
borcester rhymes
I had a CC angleset, sold it as part of a frame. Bought new gimbals and another -1.5* cup, threw the thing together. I think you can buy spare parts online, and it's easy to cannibalize a regular CC headset.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,031
5,921
borcester rhymes
what? that's a tapered headtube with a zero on top and an angled cup on the bottom.

I'm talking about an angled cup on the top and the bottom. My Yakuza ran somewhere near 63*, which is 2* less than the 65 it should have measured with the short shock I had on it. I never measured it without the angled headset nor with the 9x2.75 shock it should have been run with.
 

saruti

Turbo Monkey
Oct 29, 2006
1,167
73
Israel
Sandwich, you say that CC headsets are one side 0 and one side angled?
not like Works? that have both sides angled?

thanks
 

szacsi72

Chimp
Jan 14, 2015
69
5
Hungary
Now I REALLY don't understand what he is talking about...
CC headset is not a like a works?
Works are angled on each side.
But just to know: if you have a -x" on one side, the other must be -x" too.
Basic geometry. The pic I linked is angled on top too!
 

bengxe

Monkey
Dec 19, 2011
211
30
upstate NY
Look at your picture a little closer. The gold parts and purple parts are separate pieces. Sandwich is right, the offset is only on the bottom.
 

szacsi72

Chimp
Jan 14, 2015
69
5
Hungary
Look at your picture a little closer. The gold parts and purple parts are separate pieces. Sandwich is right, the offset is only on the bottom.
I've said it is angled on the top. And this is true. I hasn't said that the top has offset too. I'm saying you MUST have angled all two cups!
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,031
5,921
borcester rhymes
yes the upper cup has offset but the lowered one is zeroed, on a normal CC angleset. You get four cups, zero for the bottom, then 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5 for the top.

On the one I ran, I had an upper offset cup and a bottom offset cup to get more offset on each side. Yes, the top and bottom are both angled, but they are not both offset.
 

saruti

Turbo Monkey
Oct 29, 2006
1,167
73
Israel
sorry
I asked the wrong Q
if I buy CC headset of 1.5, is it offset on both up and down?
or is it centered in one and offset on the other?
so I can buy 2 X 1.5 headsets and combine the 2 1.5 offsets parts to one headset and get 3 degree?

thanks
 

saruti

Turbo Monkey
Oct 29, 2006
1,167
73
Israel
well, now I'm confused.
just spoke with the CC distributor (a friend of my)
he said the maximum you can get with CC headset is 1.5 degree....
 

hitar_potar

Monkey
Sep 23, 2011
173
6
Ruse, Bulgaria
can you lease check if its really 3 degree change?
maybe you can send it to me, and Ill pay.

thanks
Well, if you check the previous 1-2 pages of this thread, you can read about my angleset in details. It really is -3, that was the whole idea of having it custom made for me and my friends - the -2 wasn't enough anymore for me. :)
As i changed addresses recently, i gotta check at the old house to find the extra set. :)
 
Aug 4, 2014
12
0
Sofia, Bulgaria
Yesterday I was changing a tire and i saw there was a bit play in the rear hub even after i retightened the axle. I took the wheel out and it wasn't the bearings. Then i noticed that the axle had a little play in the hub. I mean it didn't fit tight and you could feel a little play. Is my axle worn out or that's normal. Sorry for the stupid question but I have no idea what else could be causing the play.
 

csermonet

Monkey
Mar 5, 2010
942
127
what kind of hub is it? if my end caps on my hadley weren't fully tightened, that might manifest in some hub play after the axle is tightened.
 
Jun 4, 2015
7
0
Hello riders,

I am putting back together my sunday. I would like to know the torque spec for the 22mm bolt that links the lower linkage to the front triangle.
Thank you very much.

Pics will come very soon...
 
Jun 4, 2015
7
0
The CCDB does well with a harder spring than what you would run on another shock, worth checking sag to see if you're getting 33-35% and preferably no more. I would suspect at your weight you might need a 375-400 spring to achieve that on the CC, but your sag will tell you for sure.

In terms of settings, I found the shock worked best if you kept both low speed adjusters backed off (start them at zero clicks in), and then used the HS adjusters alone. I would suggest 2 - 2 1/4 turns in of both HSC and HSR as a starting point for your weight, and then fine tune to taste, you can use the LS adjusters to help as well.

Reasoning here is that the lighter LS translates to better sensitivity and more pop for obstacles, while the heaver HS settings give stronger mid-speed damping for support. I found the theory worked pretty well in practice.
What is your starting point? all the way close clockwise or counter clockwise?
Thanks
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
What is your starting point? all the way close clockwise or counter clockwise?
Thanks
Those numbers are given from full open. I believe you quoted an old post, my current recommendation would be to have a maximum of 30% sag on the CCDB on the Sunday.
 
Jun 4, 2015
7
0
Those numbers are given from full open. I believe you quoted an old post, my current recommendation would be to have a maximum of 30% sag on the CCDB on the Sunday.
Yes it was an old post. I updated my spring to a 450 knowing that I weight around 200lbs.
So you are having a super fast low speed rebound...

I am debating rather or not I should change my shock. Is the DB the best shock for the bike or should I get a vivid or a RC4?

Thanks
 

Attachments

TrumbullHucker

trumbullruxer
Aug 29, 2005
2,284
719
shimzbury, ct
Yes it was an old post. I updated my spring to a 450 knowing that I weight around 200lbs.
So you are having a super fast low speed rebound...

I am debating rather or not I should change my shock. Is the DB the best shock for the bike or should I get a vivid or a RC4?

Thanks

saw this pop up on NE classifieds!
such a killer rebuild :cheers:
might give Dan my DHR to pretty up ( oxidizing aluminum is dirty looking )
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
So you are having a super fast low speed rebound...

I am debating rather or not I should change my shock. Is the DB the best shock for the bike or should I get a vivid or a RC4?

Thanks
I don't think I gave a specific recommendation for LSR (it varies with spring rate anyway). If you are running the CCDB though my general recommendation is to run more on the HS adjusters and less on the LS - still set the LS to your tastes of course, they don't need to be fully open or anything crazy, but limiting them to a maximum of half of their total range is a good idea from a sensitivity standpoint.

The reason for this is if you run the HS damping too light, the poppet valves open too easily and doesn't give enough support in compression or enough resistance to bucking in rebound, particularly with high spring rates - which leads most people to run excess LS and thus end up with a very "dead" feeling setup that is hard to get off the ground and not very sensitive in absorbing smaller bumps. Starting with generous HS and limiting LS to some extent helps avoid this pitfall.

I would try the DB first if you already have it and see how it goes, but my recommendation is usually an RC4 if you have the choice. The lower link must be cut in this case however, and this is detailed in previous pages of this thread also.