Mavic EX721 or D521 rims for those who go back a little further. Every pair I ever owned was/still is faultless even after a season in the alps and pretty much all mountain weight, outperformed much heavier downhill rims all day.
The best bad component you've ever purchased
- Thread starter maxyedor
- Start date
HT nano flat pedals. thin, well designed. nicely concaved with good edges, size and pin placement, comfortable cheap. light. strong. durable. not too many other products I could say this about.
Madison Flux saddles. cheap comfortable, light(ish), strong and durable.
Madison Flux saddles. cheap comfortable, light(ish), strong and durable.
It's certainly pretty shitty compared to the options that exist now, but my old Joplin moved up and down when commanded without exploding for a couple years. Hard to complain, really.
I've got a pre-Kashima, fat shaft, boost valve RC4 on my DHR, and it works great.
I've got a pre-Kashima, fat shaft, boost valve RC4 on my DHR, and it works great.
vintage parts still using!, Easton Cully pedals (dh bike) and Shimano Xt brakes 4 pots, braided hose (trail bike)
Easton Cully pedals is the shit-> supper grippy, concave shape, real estate, = Legacy product, the reference of modern pedals today, it died on me last week after 8 years, these are obsolete now, the small cartridge bearings at the end of the spindle disintegrated on the right pedal, also when i opened it, the needle bearing is shot. The worst part now is where to source out these bearings.
Xt 4 pots - no complains, problem is the brake pads, the metallic ones is now rare.
Easton Cully pedals is the shit-> supper grippy, concave shape, real estate, = Legacy product, the reference of modern pedals today, it died on me last week after 8 years, these are obsolete now, the small cartridge bearings at the end of the spindle disintegrated on the right pedal, also when i opened it, the needle bearing is shot. The worst part now is where to source out these bearings.
Xt 4 pots - no complains, problem is the brake pads, the metallic ones is now rare.
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Local bearing supplier should be able to sort you out unless eastern were using some bizzare custom bearings which I doubt.
Yep!
Udi, I am about to buy some R0's to replace my T1's on the DH bike(T1 getting relegated to trail bike duty). I noticed the 2014 and 2015 master cylinders appear to be different(not the racing lever). Are they the same internally with just different outward appearances? The 2015 master cylinder looks just like my T1 mc, but the 2014 looks a little different.
2014 -
2015 -
i'll play.
-crank bros anything i've used. acid pedals (on my second pair because the first pair were the low end model with non-serviceable spindle bearings. didn't break the bearings, just wore them out). current pair is fine. mallets on the DH bike (OG mallets). $30 on clearance. spindles were installed backwards (left to right and vice versa). easy fix. still going strong 3 or 4 years now. joplin dropper. got it used (just to see what the dropper craze was about) from another RM member who claimed to have issues with saddle rails slipping. cleaned it. proper torque. no saddle issues. no issues with the dropper action either. have had to add air a few times, and the blocks finally need replaced (hey @HAB when are you sending me yours!?) and the cable is probably due to be replaced.
-sunline handlebars. supposedly made of old celery that would bend/break. 5 bars, no issues.
-saint m800 brakes because they've come up here. still flawless, are mated to XT levers of the same generation. still on my DH bike.
-crank bros anything i've used. acid pedals (on my second pair because the first pair were the low end model with non-serviceable spindle bearings. didn't break the bearings, just wore them out). current pair is fine. mallets on the DH bike (OG mallets). $30 on clearance. spindles were installed backwards (left to right and vice versa). easy fix. still going strong 3 or 4 years now. joplin dropper. got it used (just to see what the dropper craze was about) from another RM member who claimed to have issues with saddle rails slipping. cleaned it. proper torque. no saddle issues. no issues with the dropper action either. have had to add air a few times, and the blocks finally need replaced (hey @HAB when are you sending me yours!?) and the cable is probably due to be replaced.
-sunline handlebars. supposedly made of old celery that would bend/break. 5 bars, no issues.
-saint m800 brakes because they've come up here. still flawless, are mated to XT levers of the same generation. still on my DH bike.
XT Rapid Rise derailleurs from Bargain bin.
Run them on my Bronson 1x9.
Flawless quick shifting.
Is almost like automatic shifting.
Pre-shifts without pedaling then smoothly into gear.
I'm faster because of the quicker less strained shifting.
Most noticeable when going fast into a steep short climb.
Perfect for Enduropoo.
Run them on my Bronson 1x9.
Flawless quick shifting.
Is almost like automatic shifting.
Pre-shifts without pedaling then smoothly into gear.
I'm faster because of the quicker less strained shifting.
Most noticeable when going fast into a steep short climb.
Perfect for Enduropoo.
Rapid rise got off to a terrible start and gained a stigma.
The first gen were terrible with that rollamajig pulley, the gear cable always fell out of the track.
i'm sure somewhere out there is someone who likes dual control
///M Factor, or so I am told.
With the 1x setups and faster bikes.
Rapid rise is magnificent.
Really is.
That's my experience.
Much faster shifting, especially when ripping along and a climb hits you in the face.
dual control is different than RR
and don't take my comment out of context. i always that RR was an interesting concept, but probably most useful in areas with short descents followed by short climbs.
I just find the the RR transitions so smooth from clicking up the cassette when not pedaling. Then when turn the crank it engages the desired gear flawless. Sometimes you're going the entire way up the cassette. In the old days you could do the same thing clicking the front derailleur to drop down. RR also shifts smoother mid-way up a tough climb when you need another gear. Going downhill you can blast down the cassette with big throws off the shifter.
Dual what? Brake levers that double as shifters? No thanks.
What was the beef w/ rapid rise though? Took a couple rides to unprogram my brain, but after that it was flawless.
we are in the downhill forum.
Funny you say that... many moons ago my first dh bike came with this exact derailleur... fwiw it was a pretty much stock Schwinn homegrown factory straight 6 (i.e. a yeti straight six)... had an xtr rr.
Sold it in 2002 and it was the last RR I ever saw
Yes, for 2015 they switched to the T1 lever which is lighter, prior to this the RO had its own lever which was heavier.
I'd strongly recommend getting the 2016 version with the 'Racing' lever (over both of those) if it's within your budget, it should be available to the public quite soon if not already. You can buy them direct from Italy if you check on ebay, the price isn't too crazy and they post to US.
http://www.formula-italy.com/en/product/ro-racing/95
1st generation Saint had a rapid-rise derailleur.
shimano was taking the "shit sticks" approach. throw a bunch of shit out there, see what sticks.
- Fox DOSS - I've had great luck with this much maligned post. I actually like the lever when it's run under the bars.
- X7 shifters - lasted me 8 years until I sold that bike with no issues.
- X9 rear derailleur - another 8 year item. It's probably still going strong.
- WTB Mutanoraptor 2.24 tires (not the 2.4s). WTB tires get a bad rap, for mostly good reason - but in the early 2000s these things were awesome for local terrain (Marin). Big beefy side knobs and could run low pressure due to the inner peace inserts.
- Hayes HFX Mags - they never let me down.
Dude! Barring crash damage. 8 years is not a long life for a shifter or a rear mech.
I have many Shimano rear mechs and shifters (STX thru to XTs) still going strong from the mid 90s. and that's surviving UK winters (mud/rain/ice). not Marin dust and sun. for logevity older SRAM mid-range stuff was all pretty weak in comparison.
not sure what you are on about, 8 years is a damn long time for a shifter or mech in my book. I don't even ride that hard and the most i've gotten is 4 years. you have mid 90's shimano drivetrain products still in service? i know that UK mud/rain/ice will do a number on the wear parts, so where are you finding 7sp and 8sp chains and cassettes these days to go with those mid 90's mechs and shifters? if they are sitting on bikes that haven't been ridden in 10 years then that shit doesn't count. I have a derailleur from 1984 that's still going strong because I haven't used it in 27 years.
Both Maverick products, kinda: The first gen Crank Bros Joplin post with underseat lever. It was just a rebranded Maverick Speedball and it worked perfectly. I put it on my XC race/trail bike and it opened my eyes. It was light and had no messy cable. When it got a squish to it I'd hold the lever and cycle it a dozen times and it was back to rock solid. I think my friend is still using it.
The other is the Maverick DUC32 I got in 2002 for my Yeti 575 that I used for XC racing and trail riding. It required a lot of tuning of the damper and spring rate but once I got it right that thing felt awesome and never once leaked oil, air or had any kind of mechanical. When an Ibis Mojo SL replaced the Yeti frame the DUC32 stayed on and eventually got its travel limited to 140mm for a 27.5" wheel. It only left service this July when I replaced the Ibis with 5010 that has a tapered headtube so it got a 34 Talas. It's an improvement but a small one and this is comparing forks from 2001 and 2016.
Other noteables are: ISIS BBs (never killed one), alloy nipples (only break the ones laced to too short spokes), Chinese carbon rims (the 2 I cracked deserved it), foam glue-on grips, Troy Lee D2 helmet (a light enduro full face before its time), and gen 3 TALAS (sure chassis oil gradually gets into the air chamber but you blow it out the valve every 2 weeks, never had other problems).
The other is the Maverick DUC32 I got in 2002 for my Yeti 575 that I used for XC racing and trail riding. It required a lot of tuning of the damper and spring rate but once I got it right that thing felt awesome and never once leaked oil, air or had any kind of mechanical. When an Ibis Mojo SL replaced the Yeti frame the DUC32 stayed on and eventually got its travel limited to 140mm for a 27.5" wheel. It only left service this July when I replaced the Ibis with 5010 that has a tapered headtube so it got a 34 Talas. It's an improvement but a small one and this is comparing forks from 2001 and 2016.
Other noteables are: ISIS BBs (never killed one), alloy nipples (only break the ones laced to too short spokes), Chinese carbon rims (the 2 I cracked deserved it), foam glue-on grips, Troy Lee D2 helmet (a light enduro full face before its time), and gen 3 TALAS (sure chassis oil gradually gets into the air chamber but you blow it out the valve every 2 weeks, never had other problems).
Are you for real?
7/8 speed chains and cassettes are still readily available at pretty much every online retailer and LBS.
Last night I rode an old '96 GT Hardtail for a couple of hours muddy XC nightride in the wet.
When the drivetrain wears out it costs a total of £30 ($45) to replace (That's chainring, cassette, chain & Jockey wheels). there's no advantage to riding anything any more modern for local (from my front door) XC rides. 8 spd drivetrains usually last me about 1500 all shity UK weather miles.
My main bikes all get used pretty much every week. that ol' GT's done about 50 very muddy XC miles in the last couple of days. my other 8 speed hardtail get's a little more use and has gone through 3 SRAM shifters so far in it's 8 year life. They just die! Shimano don't!
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Prior to that I was going through XT derailleurs annually at best , I raided our dead derailleur bin at work for XT b-tension springs many times keep mine going. XTR derailleur pivots wore out quickly and generally got sticky feeling. Shimano shifters just started to fall apart after heavy use.
Yes I was for real. I stand corrected, kudos to you sir. I still think you're crazy though. How many bikes do you own that get ridden regularly?
including high end stuff?
my short research found no high end options. like $8 chains
Depends what you call regularly.
I own 10 bikes. (hardtails, DJ HTs, Slopestyle, BMX, Roadbike, DHers, XC)
4 are ridden pretty much every week. (usually 5 but haven't been riding road due to a fucked up knee)
I ride most days. often more than one ride each day.
et toi?
I run 8 speed on my "Road" bike. Lot of good stuff out there. Isn't light though.
my old road bike that's permanently for stationary trainer use is 7spd
Here's the thing. There's no such thing as a high end chain or cassette that offers any actual performance gain (other than being a few g lighter)
I think you're confusing overly expensive and NEW SHINY with increased performance.
Ah I hope to expand mine to that size one day. I only have two at the moment. A DW DHR(doesn't get ridden as much as it should due to geographical lameness where I live) and a 6 Point. Hope to buy a new trail bike next fall, whilst not selling the 6 Point. I had a 24" BMX(Floval Flyer) that I would take to the BMX track to brush up on the basics, ended up selling it. I just ordered a new one though, a couple days ago actually, so will be adding that to the mix.
Sram 850 11-32 cassette
280g, $30 full msrp.
Shifts and rides just fine
280g, $30 full msrp.
Shifts and rides just fine
Bontrager King Earl rims. 530g, wide profile, and quite soft, for 6$ a piece on clearance. Went through 6 rims in a year, but 0 pinch flats - the rim would just bend and mush instead of causing a pinch. By far the best purchase I've ever made on a bicycle component
That sounds like absolute crap. I guess there is at least one person who would rather rebuild a wheel six times in a year than replace a tube six times.