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Somebody explain the 142mm rear spacing to me

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
I just got a set of crossmax sx wheels for my trail bike and don't want to run a QR if I can help it.


The bike is a 135mm rear end.

Mavic offers a 142 x 12 adapter but not a 135 bolt on setup.

I can poach a 135 bolt from some hadley stuff I have.

My question is what's the spacing offset from a 135 to a 142? Is it just wider on the drive side or is the non drive spaced out a bit too? I just want to know how much to grind off each side of the mavic spacer kit.


tanks
 

dropmachine

Turbo Monkey
Sep 7, 2001
2,922
10
Your face.
142 was invented because apparently there are a great many riders who are so abysmally stupid, they couldn't get the axle back in on 135x12. 142 adds a little guide for the wheels on each side, so that each muppet can feel mechanically competent, despite having to wear their helmets even when off the bike.


Far as I know its just 3.5mm on each side, so it can be taken off and it should work.
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
Looks like you're right.

12 x 142 mm Axle Details

The goal of a 12 x 142 mm axle standard is to make thru-axles as quick and easy to use as a quick release system

Stiffness of a 12 mm thru-axle, but with a quick release's wheel self centering feature

12 mm is the axle diameter, 142 mm refers to overall shoulder to shoulder width of hub (end cap to end cap)

Cassette and disc rotor are in the exact same relation to the hub's centerline as a standard 135 mm QR hub

Wheel dish remains the same as a 135 mm quick release wheel

Frame dropout's have 3.5 mm of inset per side that hub endcaps fit into - just as with a 10 x 135 mm QR wheel

There is not enough room on the driveside of a 12 x 135 mm thru-axle hub to build in the same hub locating ability, the extra 7 mm of overall width was required for the system to work

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/12x142-explained.html


It's not written by RC, so I actually read it.
 

OBB

Monkey
Sep 25, 2008
157
3
As far as I know, Mavic wheels come available with everything to work with all 3 common hub spacing: QR, 135x12, and 142x12.

The 135x12 option simply requires pulling out the QR inserts in the axle. They're held in with o-rings so you can do it without any tools usually.

And the 142x12 feature is the best one yet. Everyone complains about been "forced" to upgrade or being inundated with useless features, but 142x12 is simply bringing in the best of everything: the self aligning feature of QR hubs, the stiffness of a larger diameter axle, and the security on a thread in axle.

If you're not into spending money or getting more from your bike (technically speaking) 135qr wheelsets are still readily available.

I can't really see what the downside is here.
 

OBB

Monkey
Sep 25, 2008
157
3
Also, be prepared for the 157x12 feature to become widely used amongst manufacturers of DH bikes. The success of 142x12 was good enough that it warranted updating the 15 year old 150x12 standard.
 

mtg

Green with Envy
Sep 21, 2009
1,862
1,604
Denver, CO
I have those same wheels and also didn't want to run a QR skewer. So, I had to....use newer technology.

Anyway, Mavic offers a 12mm axle for the wheels equipped with the ITS-4 hub with 10mm flats milled on the end that I use. Don't buy that thing if you have 10mm dropouts, even though Mavic says it works. It changes the geometry of where the axle sits.
I would recommend a 12mm to 10mm stepped axle- Azonic makes a steel version, and I just saw pics of some other company that's making an aluminum version recently (maybe from Sea Otter?). Atomlab may also make one.

As far as the 142 spacing, it's a 3.5mm spacer that you add to each side of the hub to ease alignment. 157 is the same idea, applied to the 150mm spacing.

Mavic 12mm to 10mm adapter axle that I have, and do not recommend:


Mavic end caps to make ITS4 equipped wheels fit the 142 standard:
 
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kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
That mavic axle actually looks pretty good. What are your issues exactly? I get that the axle will be dropped a bit because where 'true center' is will be spaced down. Anything else? It only moves the axle a millimeter. I think I can live with that.
 
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Beef Supreme

Turbo Monkey
Oct 29, 2010
1,434
73
Hiding from the stupid
142 was invented because apparently there are a great many riders who are so abysmally stupid, they couldn't get the axle back in on 135x12. 142 adds a little guide for the wheels on each side, so that each muppet can feel mechanically competent, despite having to wear their helmets even when off the bike.
People made essentially the same argument with index shifting and we know how that turned out. Everything will be 142/157 in a few years.
 

4xBoy

Turbo Monkey
Jun 20, 2006
7,042
2,884
Minneapolis
I don't know why having a wheel locate is a bad thing, it is also nice setting the lever where you want so it closes in the same spot every time.
 

cableguy

Monkey
Jun 23, 2007
463
1
Southern California
I actually prefer 135mm axle over 142mm system. Easier to swap out wheels in/out. With 142mm you have to have it just right to get it into the dropouts. It is supposed to be stiffer, but I can't tell the difference.

I used to run 135x10mm TA with a Hadley TA. Much stiffer than QR obviously. You should be able to get the 10mm adapter kit (just a pair of thin reducers with o-rings) for your SX wheels and just keep it at 135x10mm, instead of messing with 142mm.

 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
I actually prefer 135mm axle over 142mm system. Easier to swap out wheels in/out. With 142mm you have to have it just right to get it into the dropouts. It is supposed to be stiffer, but I can't tell the difference.

I used to run 135x10mm TA with a Hadley TA. Much stiffer than QR obviously. You should be able to get the 10mm adapter kit (just a pair of thin reducers with o-rings) for your SX wheels and just keep it at 135x10mm, instead of messing with 142mm.

Well it's not like I have the option of switching my frame to 142 dropouts. I only asked about them because I thought the 142 mavic kit was the only way to get a 10mm bolt in the rear wheel.

But yeah, I'm just going to drill the qr caps out so that they look something like what you just posted.

Thanks for the help guys!
 

mtg

Green with Envy
Sep 21, 2009
1,862
1,604
Denver, CO
That mavic axle actually looks pretty good. What are your issues exactly? I get that the axle will be dropped a bit because where 'true center' is will be spaced down. Anything else? It only moves the axle a millimeter. I think I can live with that.
That is the one problem, and it is a PITA. With an 11-34 cassette, I couldn't adjust the b-screw enough- the derailleur would hit the largest cog. Also, the rotor to caliper alignment was off. At the time, I didn't know about the 12mm to 10mm reducers posted above (the cylinder with the o-ring), or the other available 12mm to 10mm conversion axles, so I filed my dropouts to make the axle fit in the correct spot.
Also, it theoretically moves the axle 1mm, but in reality, it was 2mm due to corner radii issues. I'd have to draw a picture to explain it, but trust me, it moved the axle 2mm lower, which was enough to cause the above headaches. Once the dropouts were modified to put the axle into its correct spot, the problems were gone.

And, as far as removing the QR end caps, don't worry, it took me awhile to figure it out as well. Mavic doesn't give any instructions, and it isn't obvious if you don't know how the system works. But, yeah, just pull them axially out from the hub.

One more tip (since Mavic doesn't provide instructions): if you use the 12x135 setup, you need a little black end cap on the end of the hub axle on the brake side. It looks just like the gold cap above for running the 142mm setup, but it is black.
 
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