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Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by no skid marks, Sep 11, 2012.
that banshee is vey nice.
its not done yet but i thought id show you guys whats going on so far... with my build and some estimating, it looks like its gonna be around 32-33 pounds with a coil shock... already the frame is pretty much exactly the same size as my large m9 which is perfect but its almost 6 pounds lighter...
large full carbon antidote lifeline
bb around 13.7
shes gonna rip!!
This Antidote should be pimped set!
Needz new pedalz.
you dont even know what you like... is this the 3rd bike this month?
so this new frame weighs 3lbs?
my large candy apple green m9 weighed a little over 12 pounds frame with a ccdb on it - this is around 7.3 pounds - and is definitely stiffer in the rear end
wow does paint really add that much? my raw M9 was 11.5lbs with a steel 450# coil on a DB. the DB air dropped it down to 10.3lbs.
dropping that much weight with your new frame is huge
I've seen/read some instances where people chose a raw finish for the weight savings. Not sure how much, i don't imagine its a significant amount.
That is a load of weight savings though from the m9 to the lifeline. Pretty sweet
You'd probably find the difference was to do with the spring more than the paint. Weighing frames with springs is a bit pointless as there is so much variation between brands, even if the rates are the same.
Paint is usually no more than ~100g / 0.2lbs. On the last frame I stripped it was ~80g.
Usually a Raw finish is clear coated so the difference is nil, anodizing is what the weight weenies go for.
Can't wait for the how do I strip the paint from my carbon frame threads.
Frame in question was a M9. Intense "raw" is just that... Raw.
My raw M9 with CCDB and steel 450lb spring was 11lbs 13oz.
I'd say it's anodized without any die.
I'm guessing it's raw steel you're thinking of hardtail hack, Steel is usually clear coated for the "Raw" look.
Nah, pretty sure UC is correct - they're actually raw, not anodized at all.
Same with Turner.
Oh wow OK that would look crap after a little while if you didn't look after it, I knew Ti frames were left raw.
I have a raw alloy frame that was clear coated at the factory
I have a raw DHR with no clear coat or anything of any kind. It's not too bad to keep looking good. I got a warrantied 2012 front triangle that was factory fresh, took some Mother's aluminum mag wheel polish and barely any effort made it look damn good. Just like any other bike, clean it to look good, polish again as needed for the raw aluminum. Once every 2 months worst case scenario. Here is a pic shortly after I polished it for the first time.
Here is a bad picture of it how it will be rolling for 2013. Hasn't been polished or much care taken to it in 4 months. Not too shabby.
Bike Check: here
I was just guessing as I thought they do coloured anno frames and don't recall ever seeing old dull raw Intense frames. Anno makes the surface a touch tougher, but apparently can aid in cracking. Not sure if it's a negligible amount. If it's raw you can't see scratches easy anyway. I'm lazy and rarely clean my bikes but.
Raw bikes look so cool. Do you get blasted in the eye by the suns reflection ever when it's polished up? I noticed I did on a red anno shinny stem I had years ago. It had a big flat surface but, and the red reflection was obvious.
Anno does indeed make the surface tougher. Not sure about affecting structural rigidity, never considered that before. Wonder what FEA for anno'd compared to just a raw aluminum frame would look like? I wish I had the black anno finish on my frame, I think those look the bees knees
I have never noticed anything like that haha it does get alot of attention though which can be a good and a bad thing. I don't give it much love. If someone were dedicated and put some time in with a buffing wheel, it could look like a mirror. I do happen to have a bench mount buffing wheel, but to do it right would require breaking it down like it were getting painted. Not totally out of the question. Maybe next winter.
If you like the stem (& need it) you've the link below to order it !
Here comes the full specs
Frame - Banshee Legend - Large raw
Rear shock - BOS Void (air) ... http://www.bosmtb.com/
Front fork - BOS Rare (air)
Handlebars - Renthal Fatbar 780 x 20
Stem - Novyparts integrated (15mms reach) ... http://www.novyparts.com/
Headset - Reset
Grips - ODI Rogue
Saddle - Selle Italia SL
Seatpost - Thomson Elite
Seat collar - Thomson
Front brake - Shimano XT (203mms)
Rear brake - Shimano XT (185mms)
Cranks - X0 Carbon DH (165mms)
Pedals - Shimano XT M785 or DX MX30
Chainguide - E-13 LG1 +
Chain - Sram PC991 (9 speed)
Rear derailleur - Shimano Saint (10 speed)
Rear shifter - Sram X9 (9speed)
Cassette - Shimano Ultegra (11-23 9speed)
Ring - E-13 (34 or 36 or 37t)
Wheelset - Asterion : ZTR Flow EX rims - Aivee hubs - Sapim CX ray ... http://www.asterion-wheels.com/
Tyres - Maxxis Minion UST DHF 2.5
Total weight - 16.4 kgs
How are the BOS air springys?
Designed to feel like springs, in my opinion they do it successfully !
Still have to really (in the mountains) ride the Void, but my first test session was nice.
csermonet, cool garage and nice sets of wheels. Is that a horse saddle?
I've always been a huge fan of polished frames. Tempted to do the same with my own DHR.
Thanks. Yes it is a horse saddle, mom and sister ride. My brothers hobby is cars, hence the wheel boxes and his BMW. We just bought a 1963 Chevy C10 over the weekend that we plan to work on together. Plans of swapping in a 400hp LS1 and slamming/chopping the frame so low that it scrapes, keeping original rusty patina.
Little photo feature of my bro's current car can be found here. No specs or anything, build is extensive including engine swap etc
Very cool. My brother has that same car – love how it drives.
I have ridden in it a bit, and driven it briefly. My car is a 2003 Passat Wagon w/W8 motor. Its very fun to drive, faster than anything ive ever had before, makes 275hp. My brothers car is putting a little less than 200hp to the ground, but itll chirp in 3rd gear and snap your neck. Wicked little car. Write up on the engine swap here
Not sure if this is right thread anymore, but here goes:
Same as last year, and by all accounts it does not ride light, but I am trying to integrate Cock & Ball kinematics into the frame.
EDIT - I did switch back to the stock 888 spring and added 210 cc of oil in the spring side. Tried the firmer spring last season, and it was OK, but certainly not perfect.
And FWIW, I drive a 2006 Honda Element that has never given me any problems...Sorry.
Nice ride and all, but his interview responses are fagadelic.
I will preface this with saying i am definitely partial to classic bimmers, I own an e28.
I respect the build your brother has put together, however, his use of the english language is mind numbing, how the hell can he write responses like that, what is he on?
I believe his sarcastic humor fails him at times.
I think it's time to have a 100th or so trimester abortion for your brother. You wouldn't want people knowing you share those genes.
Sucks to roll hard
anybody got one of these?
3 years and it still looks like it did from the factory. granted, i wash it after every other ride but it hasnt oxidized at all
my Zerode G1 for 2013
My old lady got some new wheels and brakes and i messed up using a 34t 22t, gotta get replace them with a 36T and 24t, everything else is pretty much ready to rock!
2011 Medium Ibis Mojo HD
Fork: 2011 Talas 36 160mm
Wheels: Mavic crossmax sx 2013
Handlebar: ENVE DH 800mm
Brakes: Shimano XTR race
Stem: Easton Havoc 80mm
Grips: ODI TLD
Tyres: Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.1 SS, EVO, Pacestar
rear shifter: saint
front shifter: SRAM X0
Rear derailleur: Saint M810 medium cage
Front derailleur: SLX M667
Saddle: SDG Edge Flex
Crankset: XT 34T 22T
Bash guard: hope
Nice, fast stanchions?
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Udi again
super nice bike. are you sure the stem isn't too long? are you having trouble being totally rad and schralping really hard?
no srsly, nice bike.