I'm thinking that I need to lube the seals, is this an easy process? Any special lubes that work better than others or should I just use fork oil or grease?
My 888's are getting sticky, what's the best fix?
- Thread starter crashing_sux
- Start date
just add a few drops of fork oil at the seals, cycle then wipe off the excess...that should help!crashing_sux said:
I use this stuff made by finish line that is awesome.
It comes in this little round case with a tiny bottle and 2 felt cloths.
You just wipe it on and go. And it keeps your seals and fork legs
moving super smooth. I use it on all my forks.
It comes in this little round case with a tiny bottle and 2 felt cloths.
You just wipe it on and go. And it keeps your seals and fork legs
moving super smooth. I use it on all my forks.
you mean Stanchion Lube?Jeremy R said:
Yep, Somebody gave me a pack at a race one time, and now I am about out of it. I like it better than something like slick honey which always attracts a boatload of dirt.Acadian said:you mean Stanchion Lube?
There are some air purge screws in the side (hex flat) of the top caps. Perhaps it needs burping.
Mike
Mike
......or just place your bike upside down, wait for a couple of minutes, unscrew the two gold anno nuts at the bottom, and pull the lowers off. Then clean and lube the seals/wipers. You might need to remove your brake too. Anyway, this is simple.
e
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Acadian said:
Uh...huh...huh...huh...he said Stanchion Lube...huh...huh...huh..
Doesn't Marzocchi recommend removing (popping out) the seals before sliding the lowers off?Espen said:
These screws holds the spring/ball for the comp/rebound clickers. They will not burp your fork, there are o-rings on the brass clicker shaft.
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Dartman said:
They do but, it's not nessesary. Just be careful when you put the lowers back on.
Acadian said:
You can buy silicon spray lube at a hardware store, too. It's what zocchi recommends. I use the Gunk brand and it's fine. Just a quick spritz on each stanchion, let it drip into the seal, and cycle the fork after every ride and/or cleaning. If that doesn't work, do what Espen says.
do they really? I have this stuff at home but never though of using it on seals?MikeD said:
Silicon spray eh??? hmmm...I'll try that. I didn't find that finishline stuff to do anything when I tried it.
Pull the top caps off and burp the damn thing already. Every 888 that I have been working on seems to get air in the legs after only a one ride. I tell my customers to burp every ride. BTW when is the last oil change you made???? All these lubes and fixes will help, but may not be the root of your problem. Change the oil (180mm from the top, springs out, fork fully compressed) and burp the fork evry time you ride.
I though it was between 190 and 185mm?dhtahoe said:
It is.Acadian said:
I put between 200 and 210 ml in both my legs based on John's (the guy you met in downieville) reccomendations. He's been messing with oil levels on his more than anyone else I know here and says this is where it feels the best in terms of not hitting bottom and still getting close to 200mm travel. I think that was around what go-ride scott suggested as well. I like just having a volume to dump in rather than measuring from the top.
Hey town, who are your "customers?" You fluffing for mountain bikers at the bunny ranch again?
Addition: You're probably right about the trapped air and need for an oil change though. I don't know about 1 day's worth of riding but mine had a small burp after a full 5 days at whistler. The oil I took out was just plain dangerous looking. If you guys haven't changed out the stock oil yet, this is a must.
as long as sticky stantions/seals, follow the advice of MIKED just spray some silicon on the stantions and seals. as with any spray, take special care with the front rotor and wipe any excess from the fork legs.
also helps if you lift with a LOT of care the dust seals and put a good amount of teflon grease in there (careful not to demage the paint of the lowers, you can strip the paint just by looking at it; or pinch the stantions).
the silicon will lubricate and wont collect dust. i usually used to spray the silicon the night before.
i also found that as long as the bike rested over a flat surface the 888 was smooth, but if the bike wasn't parallel to the ground or the front wheel was hanging for a couple of days or longer the 888 kind of locked up
and was stiff a the begining of its travel for a couple of minutes.
diego
also helps if you lift with a LOT of care the dust seals and put a good amount of teflon grease in there (careful not to demage the paint of the lowers, you can strip the paint just by looking at it; or pinch the stantions).
the silicon will lubricate and wont collect dust. i usually used to spray the silicon the night before.
i also found that as long as the bike rested over a flat surface the 888 was smooth, but if the bike wasn't parallel to the ground or the front wheel was hanging for a couple of days or longer the 888 kind of locked up
and was stiff a the begining of its travel for a couple of minutes.diego
So Brian says 185, Dan/Dave? (the professional one) at the zoke tent said 190 max, let's just settle on 187.5 then.Acadian said:
For those who changed the oil in their 888s,
Did you take the lowers off to do it?
I just took my springs out and dumped it upside down,
cycled the legs a few times and all that.
It seemed to work fine this way.
It took me so long to get those red nuts loose, I did not have the energy to remove the lowers. That trick Go-ride recommeded when putting them back on really works though. I can get mine loose without the axle block now.
Also, be VERY careful with those c-clips because you can screw them up on the threads at the top of the rod.
Ha, one more thing. I did not have anything strong enough to grip the axle block with that would break the nuts loose, so I unbolted my big vise, and held it with one arm while I tried to position the vise onto the tiny axle block.
Once the stars lined up and I finally locked it down, I then, reached with one hand for the other two wrenches I needed to break the red nuts away from the top caps. This is a really fun experience to do on your own and I hope everybody gets to experience this one day. :devil:
The 888 is fairly easy to work on though once you get those nuts loose for the first time.
And yeah, it feels even better after an oil change.
Did you take the lowers off to do it?
I just took my springs out and dumped it upside down,
cycled the legs a few times and all that.
It seemed to work fine this way.
It took me so long to get those red nuts loose, I did not have the energy to remove the lowers. That trick Go-ride recommeded when putting them back on really works though. I can get mine loose without the axle block now.
Also, be VERY careful with those c-clips because you can screw them up on the threads at the top of the rod.
Ha, one more thing. I did not have anything strong enough to grip the axle block with that would break the nuts loose, so I unbolted my big vise, and held it with one arm while I tried to position the vise onto the tiny axle block.
Once the stars lined up and I finally locked it down, I then, reached with one hand for the other two wrenches I needed to break the red nuts away from the top caps. This is a really fun experience to do on your own and I hope everybody gets to experience this one day. :devil:
The 888 is fairly easy to work on though once you get those nuts loose for the first time.
And yeah, it feels even better after an oil change.
I took out the compression damper cartridge just because I wanted to look at the finely engineered system that does nothing. I left the rebound damper in the lowers. Stantions stayed in the lowers the whole time.Jeremy R said:
I am a "take everything apart" kind of guy, and this was no exeption. One thing reg. the jamnut is to remove oil with solvent before clamping the shaft. Like mention here, the oil looked like dark siver metallic paint, so new oil is strongly recomended after some hours of riding.
I think the fork is a dream to work on. The full overhaul took me max 20 min. I installed the red compression bushing too, and I am really curious about how things feels now. I think the stock 888 is a litle too linear in the first 2/3 of the travel, and this might do something about it. cheap too..........nice!
e
I think the fork is a dream to work on. The full overhaul took me max 20 min. I installed the red compression bushing too, and I am really curious about how things feels now. I think the stock 888 is a litle too linear in the first 2/3 of the travel, and this might do something about it. cheap too..........nice!
e