[schwaaa31]

Looking for some input on this fork. I did a search here and it came up with squat, so sorry if its been covered before. The good? The bad? I know Marz seems to be back on track, and I've been running Boxxers for years, but mine is getting beat beyond help. The 888 RC3 Evo V2 can be had on the cheap, and if its not a complete turd, I may jump on it.

 

[Udi]

I believe the valving was updated slightly along with some small weight reductions but for the most part it's the same fork as the RC3 from 2010 onwards. It's a good, reliable fork with long service intervals and the only significant issue is that the stock spring is too soft for most riders (>60kg) and a lot of people waste time compensating with adjustments instead of buying the right spring.

As long as you get the correct spring with it though, I don't think you can go wrong with one. It was rumored that they updated them to shimmed rebound, but when pulled apart it turned out they didn't. Not a huge deal though.

 

[schwaaa31]

You had me at long service intervals. It's getting ridiculous with the Boxxer. After every 3 weekends of DHing is crazy. Maybe it's normal for a Boxxer, but I'm over it.

 

[ChrisRobin]

Replace oil once per season and maybe seals if you're OCD.

 

[schwaaa31]

Replace oil once per season and maybe seals if you're OCD.

Boxxer or 888? My Boxxer is on its 2nd set of seals this season, and just started leaking again on the spring side. No damage to the stanchion. The oils been changed twice this year too. Maybe that's normal, but like I said, I don't feel like working on my fork all season.

 

[ChrisRobin]

On the 888

 

[schwaaa31]

Gotcha

 

[Sandwich]

My 2012 888 cr was worlds better than the 2011 boxxer r2c2 that Jason wrangled for me, if you remember that fork. I say do it, and make sure you can source an x firm spring.

 

[schwaaa31]

I do remember that fork. Any idea where I can find an x firm spring? I'm not having any luck with Google.

 

[Sandwich]

http://www.ebikestop.com/marzocchi_8501565r_888_spring_x_heavy_gray_2008_and_newer_sold_singly-FK9989.php?PARTNER=GOOGPS&gclid=CjwKEAjwtIShBRD08fKD1OWSik4SJAAuKLov0wz_6j1gL5OWhl97_df2U58gefoREeF-HD_FTY6BjhoCG6fw_wcB

http://www.modernbike.com/product-2126206658?gclid=CjwKEAjwtIShBRD08fKD1OWSik4SJAAuKLovPbvO_gGziX0NEivddLBF21DMUBGnhyxMxvSMVeyxGRoCKv_w_wcB

http://www.bikewagon.com/marzocchi-888-spring-x-heavy?CAWELAID=1889651438&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=400006350000349277&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKEAjwtIShBRD08fKD1OWSik4SJAAuKLov-30fWDQa3QCDL3ggye4RTHQ1gBeJDI2-SBHUF1PXWxoC0Ezw_wcB

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1G80EZ1770&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Cycle+Parts-_-9SIA1G80EZ1770

googLOL not sure if any of these places actually have them in stock or just say they do, might be worth a call.

 

[schwaaa31]

I saw those. They say 2003-2013, no?

 

[Sandwich]

hmmm good point. i think it's the same...did you try marz? when I had to call them they were super responsive and it rang straight to human.

 

[schwaaa31]

Oh cool. Will do.

 

[lonelyplanetrider]

I hope my question can get some responses. I've got a Marz 888 RC3 Evo V2 2012. When I took the fork off the bike, removing it from the crowns, the rebound/ compression leg sags lower by about 2 inches than the preload/spring leg. Do you think this might just be a lack of oil or air? Hope someone can answer. Thanks.

 

[Udi]

I hope my question can get some responses. I've got a Marz 888 RC3 Evo V2 2012. When I took the fork off the bike, removing it from the crowns, the rebound/ compression leg sags lower by about 2 inches than the preload/spring leg. Do you think this might just be a lack of oil or air? Hope someone can answer. Thanks.

There is no mechanism actively pushing the damper leg towards topout (unlike the spring leg) so its default position is just a function of the internal pressure. I don't think sagging 2 inches is an indication of any problem, it just means there is a small vacuum at topout - you could reset it if you really cared by undoing the footbolt on that side with the fork extended to topout (and upside down to avoid oil spillage) just enough to draw in air and reset to atmospheric pressure @ topout.

Bottom line - no real problem, and no dire need to do anything either unless you're super pedantic.

 

[lonelyplanetrider]

There is no mechanism actively pushing the damper leg towards topout (unlike the spring leg) so its default position is just a function of the internal pressure. I don't think sagging 2 inches is an indication of any problem, it just means there is a small vacuum at topout - you could reset it if you really cared by undoing the footbolt on that side with the fork extended to topout (and upside down to avoid oil spillage) just enough to draw in air and reset to atmospheric pressure @ topout.

Bottom line - no real problem, and no dire need to do anything either unless you're super pedantic.

Thanks for the info. Good to hear that there likely isn't any issue with the legs not level. You're the second person to give the advice that it's just air. I might try that step to reset the levels, but if it's not needed, then I might not. One thing though, the damper side was only filled with 250 cc's of oil, but I read in a couple of other sites that the recommended volume should be 300-345. Don't really know though if that'll affect the levels too much or whatnot.

 

[Udi]

One thing though, the damper side was only filled with 250 cc's of oil, but I read in a couple of other sites that the recommended volume should be 300-345

Certainly do make sure you're running the correct values in both legs if you aren't already. Keep in mind the damper stores oil inside itself, so you would have to cycle the fork / damper for a little while to drain all the oil, and if you just tipped it out (alone) it may not be indicative of total oil content.

Oil levels are 320ml in damper side and 80ml in spring side from here:
http://www.marzocchi.com/Template/contenuto.asp?mode=&LN=UK&IDFolder=777&IDModelYear=15637&Tipo=LO&x=7&y=4

 

[mykel]

In addition to @Udi advice.

I will reiterate - you must pump the damper assembly to get all the fluid out.


You can add fluid to the spring side to increase bottom out resistance if needed.
I run 250ml in my '13 Evo2.


FYI - my setup @ 210 nekid.

Firm 6.6 Ti spring.
Removed volume adjust.
325 damper side
250 spring side
Custom shim stack (- thank-you Alex at Zoke Canada - gives more mid-stroke support without compromising small bump)
4 clicks compression
14 clicks rebound.

Edit: Forgot to add. - I have also removed the foam rings, and packed the space with Slickoleum (Slick Honey) grease.
(My local hill is heavy clay over shale and a bit of limestone - so the dust is like talcum powder. With the oil soaked foam ring and a good helping of Blue's dust the result was something akin to honing paste, and it only takes a weekend to make!)

If you keep the foam rings in, keep an eye on them, they can dry out, get tackey, and/or hold some grit - none of which is good for your stanchions, or small bump - they will feel "notchy / sticky" not smooth/supple.

Good luck.

 

[Sandwich]

Oh, I was going to add to Udi's comment that the trick with the shitty old boxxers, to make them less shitty, was to compress them slightly when you were buttoning everything up. Helped to add some negative spring function to them...or it was just placebo to make you feel better about owning one.