[peecee]

I bought a second hand intense m1 and its obviously old but the owner said he replaced the bearings a few times, this is fair comment as the swing arm moves as if it was brand new but im wanting to respray this bike and for the life of me i can not get the bolt undone on the main pivot where chain stay meets the main frame.

Ive snapped an allen key, I have left wd40 on if for ages I not sure what else to try ?

Ive used heat before many moons ago but have heard its bad for the metal since so i dont want anything to do with it


Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Beef Supreme]

There is probably a set screw on the bolt side that locks the bolt. Have you backed this off? If you have already done that then the bolt may be held with locktite. Heat is your best bet. A high voltage soldering iron would be better than a torch for obvious reasons.

 

[limitedslip]

Righty-Tighty, Lefty Loosy

 

[Inclag]

There is probably a set screw on the bolt side that locks the bolt. Have you backed this off? If you have already done that then the bolt may be held with locktite. Heat is your best bet. A high voltage soldering iron would be better than a torch for obvious reasons.

This.

 

[peecee]

Have managed to get the small locking screw out and the main bolt started to turn , only about half a turn but then went tight so i left it for a day to come back with fresh veiw of things.
Have the locking screw out and with the aid of WD have managed to get the bolt undone from the threaded bit but it doesn't seem to want to come through the centre, even though it turns freely by hand.

This is really really annoying as i need to get this frame to the soda blaster and the spray painter

HELP?

 

[Beef Supreme]

Tap it out from the threaded end. It will come out more easily if you don't have the weight of the rear wheel on there. Be careful not to damage the threads.

 

[peecee]

Tap it out from the threaded end. It will come out more easily if you don't have the weight of the rear wheel on there. Be careful not to damage the threads.

theres no weight on its its frame only

 

[Beef Supreme]

That's just a tip. Now follow the rest of the instructions, dummy.

 

[peecee]

That's just a tip. Now follow the rest of the instructions, dummy.

Nope cant get it feels as if i tap it any harder ill mess something up this is the most annoying problem i have had in 16 years of riding dh

 

[StabprimoMonkee]

Put it in a fridge for a couple of hours, then apply some heat to the outer elements (nut or what have you) - this should help.

 

[WBC]

Ive snapped an allen key, I have left wd40 on if for ages I not sure what else to try ?

Ive used heat before many moons ago but have heard its bad for the metal since so i dont want anything to do with it

Heat is dangerous because aluminum is a sensitive material and using heat in your garage is difficult to regulate. I only use it at last resort, but then again, aluminum also doesn't like to be beaten on with a hammer, either.

I wouldn't consider all penetrating oils equal, and I'm not even sure that WD40 is technically a penetrating oil. Right off the bat, I'd recommend something formulated just for this type of situation, like PB Blaster or Aerokroil. Second, be careful beating on that pivot axle, if memory serves me correctly, the pivot axle on the M1 is unique to the M1, and will be very expensive and difficult to find should you destroy the one you have. For this reason, I would recommend using a "punch" with as flat of a surface as possible. The backside of a small socket works well, but if possible, I would try to find a nylon dowel. If you have an impact hammer (like you would use for riveting or chipping concrete), you could use the impact hammer at the end of the nylon dowel and gently let the vibration do the work. I would think you're dealing with an obstruction from corrosion or burring of the material on the pivot axle's interface with the inner bearing race, so steady vibration may be the ticket to break the axle free without damaging the axle.

Wrenching in mountain bike shops for eight years in poor towns, I have done MANY bearing replacements on old frames, and speaking from experience, lots of force will just disfigure difficult to replace parts. Lots of penetrating oil, vibration, and making sure the frame is properly secured should go a long way. Also, an upclose visual inspection with a fresh set of eyes might reveal some easy to remove obstruction, like a second set screw!

 

[peecee]

Heat is dangerous because aluminum is a sensitive material and using heat in your garage is difficult to regulate. I only use it at last resort, but then again, aluminum also doesn't like to be beaten on with a hammer, either.

I wouldn't consider all penetrating oils equal, and I'm not even sure that WD40 is technically a penetrating oil. Right off the bat, I'd recommend something formulated just for this type of situation, like PB Blaster or Aerokroil. Second, be careful beating on that pivot axle, if memory serves me correctly, the pivot axle on the M1 is unique to the M1, and will be very expensive and difficult to find should you destroy the one you have. For this reason, I would recommend using a "punch" with as flat of a surface as possible. The backside of a small socket works well, but if possible, I would try to find a nylon dowel. If you have an impact hammer (like you would use for riveting or chipping concrete), you could use the impact hammer at the end of the nylon dowel and gently let the vibration do the work. I would think you're dealing with an obstruction from corrosion or burring of the material on the pivot axle's interface with the inner bearing race, so steady vibration may be the ticket to break the axle free without damaging the axle.

Wrenching in mountain bike shops for eight years in poor towns, I have done MANY bearing replacements on old frames, and speaking from experience, lots of force will just disfigure difficult to replace parts. Lots of penetrating oil, vibration, and making sure the frame is properly secured should go a long way. Also, an upclose visual inspection with a fresh set of eyes might reveal some easy to remove obstruction, like a second set screw!

Thanks so much for this reply much appreciated. Ill give it a whirl, yeah im not going to heavy handed and its monocoque and i know how paper thin they can be. Ill let you know how i go.

Cheers

 

[peecee]

Still a none mover cant see anything cant feel anything just does not want to budge and ive smacked the s#!t out of it. Oh well looks like ill have to drill it out and try and find a M1 pivot bolt even if that means buying an M1 to get one. I can't believe Intense don't make older parts still or anyone else they would be making a killing i bet

 

[VMARTINEZ]

I had the seat tower bolt snap off in the frame. I ended up taking it to Doc at SuperCo and he machined it out and installed a new insert because I was not able to get the bolt out.
I had to take the rear swing arm off so he could mount it into his mill. There are two washers one on each side of the bearings.
Make sure the swing arm is not binding bolt.
If not I still have the frame that I can sell. It's just hanging up.
Its an Old Haro DHR built by Intense. It's just an M1. Size medium
VM