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help with jump line into berm

meattray

Chimp
Dec 27, 2009
35
0
looking for some ideas of how to finish jump line in to a berm.

Im going to use CMC's 10ft lip to lander with 20 ft between lander and take off formula i have seen him diagram before.I have about 120ft before I need to make a 90 degree berm or a 180 if you think I could maintain speed to make another line back ,but 90 seems faster to me.

here is a photo of the area straight down this line


it's 10 ft bewteen every fence post to give you and idea and i'm pushing the roll in back about 10 to 15 ft

I wanted to try to fit 3sets in(lips and landers being a set).
my question is how far from the begin of the berm or the apex should the lander be so its not sketchy? should I make the lander be an angle into the berm?

any help would be great.

I'm try to ask question so I don't make to many mistakes I know tweaking and trail and error is part of it but I did alot of that on the pum track and want to build this a little faster.

thanks for any help and ideas
 

Flat tyres

Monkey
May 30, 2007
177
0
Im guessing your turning part of an existing pump track into dj's to satisfy your need to advance your riding, right? If thats the deal here I can only offer up the mistakes I have made. Those normally involve jamming too much stuff into the line. Then the sets can only get taller and not actually bigger. Tall - steep stuff is fun, but limits the possibilities for better stuff.

With that being said, always leave room to stack, its the natural progression of the sport. Dig, ride, stack - repeate over and over until Z-dank or someone like that tells you to stop because your sh1ts too big (which never happens to me BTW). I would not squeze the sets, it become a problem in the end. Good luck.
 

cmc

Turbo Monkey
Nov 17, 2006
2,052
6
austin
hah hah, here goes another of my overkill posts....

there are really a lot of options when you get to the end of the line and you need to turn.

1. landing --> space --> an "up" berm (where you go from low to high). extreme version of this could be a wallride.
2. landing blending directly into berm. (this will tend to make you go low around the bottom of the berm and potentially exit high).
3. pure 90 degree hip where launch is straight (not tilted over, banked, or bermed) and landing is also straight, just off-set at 90 degrees.
4. the tilted/banked launch AND tilted/banked landing. these are pretty cool. because it's dirt and not plywood you can make a pretty cool catchers mit type shape to land sideways into.
5. if you want to turn 180, either 180 berm OR a quarter pipe/vert wall.

pics borrowed from other threads, mainly What Is Trails?


landing down "into" berm . . . riding line is low...


landing, then some space, then berm. you can go high in the apex.


another low --> high --> low.


different style of low --> high --> low.


cool ribbon/wave style....


classic curve wallride berm.


good example of entering high, going low around the apex, then exiting high




chiller version of this


tilted launch to tilted landing



no separate landing at all. jumping directly to berm wall.


short & steep


steep wall 180


massive speed



bermed launch to straight landing


another launch-berm to straight landing


the opposite: straight launch to berm landing



rad combo of the landing blending into a wave-ish berm with blended waterfall out....


g-force!!


tight 180


not sure what other people call this style.... wave/ribbon?


launch up to 180 wallride


90 degree curve wallride


tilted (not vertical) wallride



another way to do 180 degrees. dirt berm with slanted curve wall


if you need to turn around 180, a quarter pipe to vert wall (or just a way over-vert quarter) will generate a lot more speed than a 180 berm will. because you air up... you can leave a vert wall going faster than when you came into it.

 
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cmc

Turbo Monkey
Nov 17, 2006
2,052
6
austin
. . .
Im going to use CMC's 10ft lip to lander with 20 ft between lander and take off formula i have seen him diagram before.I have about 120ft . . .

. . . I would not squeze the sets, it become a problem in the end. Good luck.
Flat is right. You may want to space the line in a way that will allow you to make the gaps longer later. So maybe do 25' or 26' to the next lip.

Or just go ahead and make them 13' footers now, instead of 10'. A 10' gap is fine for taller/steeper sets, but if you like more of fast/racerish style of jumping with medium steepness lips, then 10' is a little short. You may need to build your roll-in up to 12' tall though!!



Never overkill dude you always have tons of awesome info
cool, thanks!
 

buckoW

Turbo Monkey
Mar 1, 2007
3,786
4,727
Champery, Switzerland
How about making your last jump a step up hip with a berm at the exit of the landing to fine tune the exit direction?

At a spot like yours I made lines in both directions so you always have enough speed for the sets and you never have to hike back up to the start. There are many variations in between but the 2 start ramps were in opposite directions.
 

cmc

Turbo Monkey
Nov 17, 2006
2,052
6
austin
MagyarBarbár;3623255 said:
. . . .Do you guys think I can make these work for a beginner/intermediate rider like myself?

Sorry about the crappy pics my photography skills are not so good.
Looks like there is a lot of good work going on there.

But one thing I noticed that is a potential problem is the 6 foot gap doubles that are 4-5' tall. You would be a lot better off with those being 8-12 foot gaps. Cone shapes are not good!

A short gap will set a slow speed for everything else.
 
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cmc

Turbo Monkey
Nov 17, 2006
2,052
6
austin
MagyarBarbár;3623706 said:
. . . .Sad part is that I've put in a couple thousand hours on this spot and it is just getting to where I might have some decent stuff soon but I am moving to Texas in about a month.:( Unfortunately, I am going to Houston and not Austin where all the sick trails seem to be.
there are some sick trails in Houston too. and there are a ton of riders there who will come out of the woodwork if you start some new trails too.