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help!! with a weridish problem.

dhkid

Turbo Monkey
Mar 10, 2005
3,358
0
Malaysia
its to do with my bike set up, and its not just me. my rear suspension works soo danm well, i keep washing out on the front.:dead: my bike is a commencal supreme dh, my friend has a sunday. both of us are using fox 40s. well, he is a much better rider and seemed to getten used to it.
so, the problem it self is that we are used to bikes that dont work soo well, and were the fork diving in corners didn't matter soo much. well it does now... so a few ways of solving it, run the front sus harder, or use more low speed compression. i have already experimented with the low speed compression, i helps abit but i dont feel like using more compression and loose small bump sensitivity. and i already have close to 30% sag in the rear and about 10% in the front. so if i make the front sus harder i worry it will make the bike unbalanced.
its all going to come down to experimenting but i am hoping that there is something we are overlooking. we even were thinking about running a tire with less traction in the rear. and were wondering whether faster rebound will help with cornering traction.
 

Bicyclist

Turbo Monkey
Apr 4, 2004
10,152
2
SB
Run slower rebound if it's really fast now or faster rebound if it's sludgy.

Remember to really weight the rear of the bike and push the back end with your hips on loose stuff for drifts, and your front will stay connected for the most part. Instead of only the front sliding, your back will.
 

bikenweed

Turbo Monkey
Oct 21, 2004
2,432
0
Los Osos
try lowering your crowns and reducing your travel. It's amazing how much better a 7" fork corners on some bikes rather than the 8" forks.


Oh, and btw, I run 4-6 clicks out from fully in for my high speed compression, and 2-3 clicks out for my low speed. That, along with 2-3 clicks out for rebound and 7" of travel, makes my bike feel the best.

Good luck, and try some different tires and stems, too. Or just keep on practicing leaning forward going into the corner then really far back coming out.
 

JohnnyBoyDH

Monkey
Aug 6, 2003
422
0
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
I have the same bike and fork. I run the low speed (and high speed for that matter) almost all the way in (about 2 or 3 clicks out from full in) and I find it works well for racing on most courses and don't loose that much small bump sensitivity. I run the rebound so that the fork returns to the sag height with no extra oscillations. Most of the guys on the team run very similar set ups. I never have the front end wash out. I keep the front and rear suspension well balanced together as well. Hope that helps!

Edit: I assumed you have the fork at 7" as well to match the rear better....
 

Kornphlake

Turbo Monkey
Oct 8, 2002
2,632
1
Portland, OR
Maybe try some narrower handlebars? I really doubt that you are unable to keep the front from washing out because the rear is working too well, if the rear suspension works better than what you are used to you'll be able to move less weight off the rear and put it on the front. I'm guessing you just need to get used to the new bike's geometry and where to put your weight.
 

PatBranch

Turbo Monkey
Sep 24, 2004
10,451
9
wine country
A wider tire in the front might help. I just got a 2.5 nevegal for the front and a 2.35 one for the back. Then, I can get more traction where I need it, and still be able to pedal.
 

dG video

I blew a mod to get this title
Feb 25, 2004
2,133
0
vermont
I had the same problem last year.

I was running a Boxxer WC. It was the perfect stiffness. But my rebound was way too fast. The way I got mine dialed was going by feel, for rebound, I would stand fee on the ground in the cockpit, push down and pull back up, the rebound shouldn't be any faster than you can push down. And then to figure out if the fork was the proper stiffness, ride around and compress the fork as much as possible, being about an inch from bottoming out seemed to be the right set up. It works for me....
 

nugget

Monkey
Jul 4, 2006
187
0
somewhere near a town
rockymt21 said:
I had the same problem last year.

I was running a Boxxer WC. It was the perfect stiffness. But my rebound was way too fast. The way I got mine dialed was going by feel, for rebound, I would stand fee on the ground in the cockpit, push down and pull back up, the rebound shouldn't be any faster than you can push down. And then to figure out if the fork was the proper stiffness, ride around and compress the fork as much as possible, being about an inch from bottoming out seemed to be the right set up. It works for me....

Wat settings do u run on the Dhx?

I've got mine at
Propedal - 1 from the lease
Bottom out - somewhere between the middle and full in line
Rbd - 4 from the faster
Air - 95-100 psi
abt 30% sag

It feels pretty stable, but does go through it travel rather quickly tho.. Is that normal?
 

dG video

I blew a mod to get this title
Feb 25, 2004
2,133
0
vermont
I haven't really touched it since I got the bike from Ironhorse. I run the shock on the slower side, and about 33% sag. If not a little more.
 

nugget

Monkey
Jul 4, 2006
187
0
somewhere near a town
LOOnatic said:
Your probaly now getting faster to where traditonal sag levels are too soft.
You ever felt a pro's bike?
No sadly i haven't, the nearest pro's bike are like thoundsand miles away but flight.
I have heard that Hill runs like 40-50% sag, is that true?

Anyways, your saying i should run more sag?
 

dhkid

Turbo Monkey
Mar 10, 2005
3,358
0
Malaysia
yea, my fork is at 7in already. my low speed compression is about 6clicks from fully open, high speed 8 clicks from fully closed. taking into account i am only 120 lbs. out on the ride today, i found that the bike really likes to be leaned really low.. but still kinda scary... the front gives way a bit then the rear will give way, conering very nicely.
wieighting the rear tire? i can see how kovarik does that. but i find that pretty hard to do.. :s.
 

dhkid

Turbo Monkey
Mar 10, 2005
3,358
0
Malaysia
yea, thats for sure.. its just flat corners, off camber stuff the bike is perfect, just stay in the middle, lean it down and it will do the rest.
 

ÆX

Turbo Monkey
Sep 8, 2001
4,920
17
NM
i always use a rear tire with less traction than the front.

you always want it to break loose first.
 

Bldr_DH

Monkey
Aug 8, 2003
762
0
NO BO CO
Your problem may not necessarily be related to suspension setup or the type of tires you're using. Cornering technique will go miles and miles as far as how well you hook up sometimes. I, of course, have never seen you ride, so I don't know how you look in the corners but if changing your suspension setup doesn't work, definitely try practicing good technique. I couldn't find any 'How to corner' articles on his site, but Lee McCormack knows how to corner and is great about teaching it -- I would know, he's my team's coach. Check out his website at www.leelikesbikes.com and shoot him an email. Hope this helps and good luck!

Braap
 
Feb 13, 2006
299
0
If the front wheel washes out and you have 10% sag, my guesses are these --

1) not enough sag, should be 25-30%

2) too firm on the compression damping

3) too slow on the rebound damping

My experience is that washing out is caused by the suspension not reacting and compressing deeply enough or quickly enough, and not rebounding quickly enough.
 

mandown

Poopdeck Repost
Jun 1, 2004
20,134
7,680
Transylvania 90210
thank you jebus! somebody finally said 10% is too little :thumb:

run more sag in the front.

also, like bcd said, try to set it up so the back washes out before the front. if you like the feel of the suspension in the back, then try to run more pressure in the tires, or change to a tire with less bite.

also consider the front tire. is there enough bite in it? is the air pressure to high?

i had some front suspension issues last week. the front felt flexy and washed on stuff. i turned the rebound up, and it helped but it was causing the front end to pack up. that being the case, i realized my preload was too low. i turned that up and the "flex" started to go away. turns out my fork was not flexing, but my wheel was bouncing around. at 10% sag, you probably have plenty of preload, so this is not your problem. try slower rebound. a softer spring setting will have some similar results to running slower rebound.

also, the 40 probably has high and low speed damping. corners are "low speed" issues, so reduce your low speed compression damp to allow the fork to dive more.
 

dhkid

Turbo Monkey
Mar 10, 2005
3,358
0
Malaysia
mandown said:
thank you jebus! somebody finally said 10% is too little :thumb:

run more sag in the front.

corners are "low speed" issues, so reduce your low speed compression damp to allow the fork to dive more.
ok, now i am really confused... few things i dont get, i run 10% sag on the front, and on tracks with no jumps or drops i will use around 6+ inches of travel. and i am pretty happy with it, it still flys through rock gardens and dont feel like i am getting bumped around much.
on the other hand, i run around between 12-16 psi in the tires depending on tracks, with the rear slightly harder. i know its really really low, but its been six months since my last flats,that was coz of me trying mich tires and the tires dont fold over.:p i also have two huge dents on my rims (721s) the braking surface is bent in and its cracked badly along the rim. btw, i run xc tubes front and back and the dents happened with in the last month.
next, less low speed compression? i though more helps, so that your fork doesn't dive and giving better traction?
i guess i am riding the fastest(and hardest) i have ever been so alot of change in bike set up is gonna happen.

about lee, i have read his book and sent him and email before. the book rocks!!! still working in gettting my hips pointing where i wanna go, weighting the inside bar on every corner... i am just terrified of tight high speed corners, on open ones i can nail them no problem.

thanks for the help!!!
 

thaflyinfatman

Turbo Monkey
Jul 20, 2002
1,577
0
Victoria
RaID said:
another vote to change youre cornering technique, you need to weight the front wheel more so that it wont wash out as easily

i doubt you can screw up your front suspension setup so that its that bad at cornering
I reckon you can, in fact today I came across exactly this problem. I run the rebound on my fork fairly fast (as in, fast without threatening to top out), but when I did a run on a mate's bike I found that it had much worse front wheel traction, and tended to kick around lots in rough stuff. We sped the rebound up and that made an absolute world of difference to the traction and stability of the front end. I would recommend playing with your rebound before anything else, and try running a bit more sag. While too much dive (888 style) is a bad thing, most forks will go through at least 50% of their travel under typical cornering loads (ie if you smash berms really hard, you will use quite a bit more than that) and I personally don't find this a big problem. I reckon go back to running about 20-25% sag (10% is really not enough, that's not even one inch!), run a small to medium amount of low speed compression and wherever you feel like with the high speed (I'd say not much, personally), and keep your rebound fast.
 

dhkid

Turbo Monkey
Mar 10, 2005
3,358
0
Malaysia
nugget said:
Just curious than,
What kinda of Pressure do u run in your tires? & What tire do you run?
dhkid said:
on the other hand, i run around between 12-16 psi in the tires depending on tracks, with the rear slightly harder. i know its really really low, but its been six months since my last flats,that was coz of me trying mich tires and the tires dont fold over. i also have two huge dents on my rims (721s) the braking surface is bent in and its cracked badly along the rim. btw, i run xc tubes front and back and the dents happened with in the last month.
i run maxxis minnion f's slow reezaay 2.5 front and back.
 

mandown

Poopdeck Repost
Jun 1, 2004
20,134
7,680
Transylvania 90210
dhkid said:
ok, now i am really confused... few things i dont get, i run 10% sag on the front, and on tracks with no jumps or drops i will use around 6+ inches of travel. and i am pretty happy with it, it still flys through rock gardens and dont feel like i am getting bumped around much.
on the other hand, i run around between 12-16 psi in the tires depending on tracks, with the rear slightly harder. i know its really really low, but its been six months since my last flats,that was coz of me trying mich tires and the tires dont fold over.:p i also have two huge dents on my rims (721s) the braking surface is bent in and its cracked badly along the rim. btw, i run xc tubes front and back and the dents happened with in the last month.
next, less low speed compression? i though more helps, so that your fork doesn't dive and giving better traction?
i guess i am riding the fastest(and hardest) i have ever been so alot of change in bike set up is gonna happen.
the following are some general rules -

sag should be 25 to 35% of total travel for front and rear. why? because suspension has one job; regulating the forces between you and the ground. there are two main ways in which this is an issue. one is hard impacts, including anything from braking bumps to rockgardens to jumps and drops. this is where a sudden impact compresses the suspension with lots of force in a short amount of time (relatively). this is what you use high-speed damping to regulate. the other side of the coin is low-speed impacts. this is what happens in corners. this is what you need to know more about.

in a corner, the force is transmitted from your body to the ground. force is a vector, which means it has magnitude and direction. the magnitude is a result of your body weight and your speed. the direction is... direction. when you enter a corner, your body has a force that wants to keep going in a straight line (one of newton's laws). turning the bars, turns the wheel, which fights the your body's natural force to go straight. this is where your fork comes in. if your fork is there to regulate these forces, it must compress. this type of compression is low-speed issue (the low-speed is in relation to how fast the fork compresses. it has nothing to do with how fast you are going into the corner). if the damping is set too high, the force will not compress the fork. the force has to go somewhere (another one of newton's laws). the only place it has left to go is the tires. if the tires have enough bite (a function of tire pressure, rubber type, and tread pattern), the wheel will stick. if not, the tire will push.

with that as the foundation, consider the following. if you have too little low-speed damping, the fork will compress too much, resulting in dive. now, dive is a relative term, not an absolute one. what is dive to one person might not be dive to another. just like the fact that what feels like washing out to you, may feel normal to someon else. you need to find your comfort point. you mentioned you have some new gear and you are going faster than before, so you will need to change your technique, as others have mentioned.

where does rebound fit into this? when your fork compresses, it will want to return to an extended position again. that is where it is in balance. the rebound damping will impact this. if the rebound is too slow, the fork will dive and stay down. the fork will then pack up. not good. if the rebound is too fast, the fork will try to extend before you are out of the corner and it will try to push against your tire, meaning the tire's job of sticking to the ground just got harder.

i know this is a bunch of stuff. i hope it helps. i'll be more than happy to expand on any of the above. just ask.
 

dhkid

Turbo Monkey
Mar 10, 2005
3,358
0
Malaysia
thanks for the in depth explanation, i get most of it just the dive part. my understanding is that if your fork dives alot, at the moment that it is diving, the fork is absorbing the force, not transfering it to the tire, hence less traction. where as if you have low speed compression, there will be resistance to the dive, the force form the resistance will be transfered to the tires give it good traction.
i understand the rebound part fine, just dont know why other ppl say slower rebound will help.

anyways, revised my bike set up a bit.. now with 22% sag in front and 30% on the back, pumped up my tires a bit too. see how it goes.
to all other supreme dh users out there, how much sag do you run in the rear?
 

mandown

Poopdeck Repost
Jun 1, 2004
20,134
7,680
Transylvania 90210
dhkid said:
thanks for the in depth explanation, i get most of it just the dive part. my understanding is that if your fork dives alot, at the moment that it is diving, the fork is absorbing the force, not transfering it to the tire, hence less traction. where as if you have low speed compression, there will be resistance to the dive, the force form the resistance will be transfered to the tires give it good traction.
i understand the rebound part fine, just dont know why other ppl say slower rebound will help.

anyways, revised my bike set up a bit.. now with 22% sag in front and 30% on the back, pumped up my tires a bit too. see how it goes.
to all other supreme dh users out there, how much sag do you run in the rear?
i think you got part of it backwards. it may be the way i worded it as much as the way you read it. let me try again.

fork dive is absorbing the force, not transfering it, hence MORE traction. transfering force to the tires does not give them more traction. it makes the tires job of holding traction harder, creating more potential to wash. granted, the tires need some force on them in order to make them bite. which is why other were saying you may need to put more body weight over the front. however too much force (caused by too stiff a spring rate or too much compression damping) will cause the tires to break loose at speed.

there are two-and-a-half weapons against dive. weapon one is preload of the spring. of which, you had plenty. weapon two is low speed damping. increasing the damping will reduce dive. the half weapon is rebound. rebound will not prevent your fork from diving, but it will enable your fork to pack up which can feel like diving. the reason i say it is half a weapon is because the proper adjustment won't prevent the fork from diving, but it will minimize the amount of dive you feel.

remember that many modern damping systems are position and/or speed sensitive. this is why it is important to not have too much preload. if the fork does not move, the oil does not flow through the damping system and the cartridge cannot do what it is intended to do. if you lessen the preload (creating more sag) you allow the fork to compress, thus making the oil flow and allowing the cartridge regulate the dive based on your low-speed damping setting.

what you are trying to find is a balance between damping and preload. sometimes extra preload can makeup for underdamping. sometimes overdamping can make up for too little preload. just remember, these are band-aids. they do the job, but may not be the best tool for the job.
 

Cave Dweller

Monkey
May 6, 2003
993
0
My general observations.

1. Tire pressure too low, try running <20psi. They will roll faster, and they are a bit more predictable when riding, tend not to "flop" around and the side knobs will actually dig into the ground.
2. Front fork too stiff, run more sag
3. Your bike has 7inchs rear travel, drop the fork to 7 as well. That bike is designed around a 7inch fork
4. The fox 40 is a stiff fork, it won't flex, you need to ride with your weight a bit more forward otherwise it will break traction
5. Your stem and handlebar may be too high. Run 1 inch rise bars, a 0 degree rise stem and ditch any spacers between the stem and headset.
 

dhkid

Turbo Monkey
Mar 10, 2005
3,358
0
Malaysia
1.i increased the tire pressure, feels better through the rocks gardens, doesn't seem to get hung up soo much. but i can feel the lil bumps more.
2.running 22% sag in front
3.the fork is at 7in already.
4.working on it, although sometimes i feel the bike corners better with my weight in the middle. :s
5.i run a easton .75 rise bar, 0 degrees stem, and 2cm of spacers.

mandown, thanks for the long explanation again. so i should reduce my low speed compression?
 

Cave Dweller

Monkey
May 6, 2003
993
0
dhkid said:
1.i increased the tire pressure, feels better through the rocks gardens, doesn't seem to get hung up soo much. but i can feel the lil bumps more.
2.running 22% sag in front
3.the fork is at 7in already.
4.working on it, although sometimes i feel the bike corners better with my weight in the middle. :s
5.i run a easton .75 rise bar, 0 degrees stem, and 2cm of spacers.

mandown, thanks for the long explanation again. so i should reduce my low speed compression?
If you can feel the bumps play with the high speed comp settings, might be too high, rebound could also be too slow making the fork pack up.

I would also consider pulling out those spacers and get the handlebar right down. You will be suprised at how much differance 2cm of spacers make.

Seeing you have the commencal maybe also try changing the headangle. Slack is good for fast high speed stuff, steeper is better for techy. Not sure what you ride and how the bike is setup but have a fiddle with it.
 

dhkid

Turbo Monkey
Mar 10, 2005
3,358
0
Malaysia
i can feel the small bumps in the rear, so i dont think i can do much about it. my boost valve setting is in the middle, propedal min, air pressure 100 psi.
the head angle is at the slackest, around 66.5 degrees.still pretty steep.
about the spacers, its nearly the same as using a 8in fork with no spacers at all. and i know some of the drop machine ppl use boxxers wc. i'll give it a try soon.
 

thaflyinfatman

Turbo Monkey
Jul 20, 2002
1,577
0
Victoria
mandown said:
i think you got part of it backwards. it may be the way i worded it as much as the way you read it. let me try again.

fork dive is absorbing the force, not transfering it, hence MORE traction. transfering force to the tires does not give them more traction. it makes the tires job of holding traction harder, creating more potential to wash. granted, the tires need some force on them in order to make them bite. which is why other were saying you may need to put more body weight over the front. however too much force (caused by too stiff a spring rate or too much compression damping) will cause the tires to break loose at speed.
I disagree here. Force along the axis of the fork's travel does not translate to a disproportionate horizontal force component at the tyre, because it will increase the vertical load on the tyre too, which in turn increases the grip (which is never quite linear, but for small changes it can be approximated as linear). Also, the difference between the force components of a fork that dives a lot and one that dives a little, is only during the transient loading of the fork. At equilibrium (and nearby) for any given weighting, the fork will transfer an equal force to the tyre regardless of where it is in its travel.


Personally I am of the belief that there are three main things that affect your front end grip, tyres notwithstanding. These are the geometric dive characteristics affecting weight shift, your spring rate/compression settings, and your rebound speed. Notably, dive is a function of spring rate/compression settings, so I suppose they're only really two things. Too much dive is bad, because it tends to steepen the head angle a lot (which in spite of what a lot of people say, does not help your cornering traction IMO) and because it gives you a less direct feel for the front tyre. No dive at all tends to indicate that your fork is way oversprung or overdamped, and that is also bad. The correct spring rate is useful too, personally I believe that the front end sag needs to be a bit less than the rear end for a few reasons (22% sounds good to me) - keeping the front end up under cornering loads helps you keep a good feel of the front tyre, and it stops the geometry steepening and feeling like your front wheel is going to fold under the bike.

However I have found far and away the biggest difference is in the rebound speed (as I said, had this experience just the other day). A fork that rebounds quickly and follows the terrain better will give you better feel, more traction and less likelihood of the front wheel being knocked slightly off line, which can be enough to put you on the ground. I would highly recommend trying a faster rebound speed before anything else. Start with it as fast as the fork will go without topping out under any circumstances, then add rebound damping click by click until it feels right. Rebound damping that is waaaay too fast also feels crap and tends to bounce around noticeably, but it's much easier to identify than when there is too much of it.
 

dhkid

Turbo Monkey
Mar 10, 2005
3,358
0
Malaysia
yea, thats sorta what i though. friction=normall reactionXcoefition of friction in this case friction being cornering traction. not sure whether it applys for a traction of a tire but thats what i understand.
i think i sort out what i need to do with the low speed compression i just go to work on my technique.
 

mandown

Poopdeck Repost
Jun 1, 2004
20,134
7,680
Transylvania 90210
thanks flyin. i was trying to throw out some "general" rules without getting too deep. i think i oversimplified a few things. way to give some detail.
 
Feb 13, 2006
299
0
thaflyinfatman said:
However I have found far and away the biggest difference is in the rebound speed (as I said, had this experience just the other day). A fork that rebounds quickly and follows the terrain better will give you better feel, more traction and less likelihood of the front wheel being knocked slightly off line, which can be enough to put you on the ground. I would highly recommend trying a faster rebound speed before anything else. Start with it as fast as the fork will go without topping out under any circumstances, then add rebound damping click by click until it feels right. Rebound damping that is waaaay too fast also feels crap and tends to bounce around noticeably, but it's much easier to identify than when there is too much of it.
That's some good shyte, TFF. Nicely explained.:thumb:
 

tidan

Chimp
Oct 29, 2003
91
2
San Diego
the following are some general rules -

sag should be 25 to 35% of total travel for front and rear. why? because suspension has one job; regulating the forces between you and the ground. there are two main ways in which this is an issue. one is hard impacts, including anything from braking bumps to rockgardens to jumps and drops. this is where a sudden impact compresses the suspension with lots of force in a short amount of time (relatively). this is what you use high-speed damping to regulate. the other side of the coin is low-speed impacts. this is what happens in corners. this is what you need to know more about.

in a corner, the force is transmitted from your body to the ground. force is a vector, which means it has magnitude and direction. the magnitude is a result of your body weight and your speed. the direction is... direction. when you enter a corner, your body has a force that wants to keep going in a straight line (one of newton's laws). turning the bars, turns the wheel, which fights the your body's natural force to go straight. this is where your fork comes in. if your fork is there to regulate these forces, it must compress. this type of compression is low-speed issue (the low-speed is in relation to how fast the fork compresses. it has nothing to do with how fast you are going into the corner). if the damping is set too high, the force will not compress the fork. the force has to go somewhere (another one of newton's laws). the only place it has left to go is the tires. if the tires have enough bite (a function of tire pressure, rubber type, and tread pattern), the wheel will stick. if not, the tire will push.

with that as the foundation, consider the following. if you have too little low-speed damping, the fork will compress too much, resulting in dive. now, dive is a relative term, not an absolute one. what is dive to one person might not be dive to another. just like the fact that what feels like washing out to you, may feel normal to someon else. you need to find your comfort point. you mentioned you have some new gear and you are going faster than before, so you will need to change your technique, as others have mentioned.

where does rebound fit into this? when your fork compresses, it will want to return to an extended position again. that is where it is in balance. the rebound damping will impact this. if the rebound is too slow, the fork will dive and stay down. the fork will then pack up. not good. if the rebound is too fast, the fork will try to extend before you are out of the corner and it will try to push against your tire, meaning the tire's job of sticking to the ground just got harder.

i know this is a bunch of stuff. i hope it helps. i'll be more than happy to expand on any of the above. just ask.
I know this is an old thread, but I recently built up a new DH bike and am having issues with the front sliding before the rear - which I'd like to reverse, i.e. the rear sliding before the front.
Your post has good info and in align with my understanding as well. However, my understanding being what it is hasn't helped me solve this issue with the front sliding too much. As a baseline, what would you recommend as a start setting to get the rear sliding earlier?
 

Nick

My name is Nick
Sep 21, 2001
23,928
14,450
where the trails are
I know this is an old thread, but I recently built up a new DH bike and am having issues with the front sliding before the rear - which I'd like to reverse, i.e. the rear sliding before the front.
Your post has good info and in align with my understanding as well. However, my understanding being what it is hasn't helped me solve this issue with the front sliding too much. As a baseline, what would you recommend as a start setting to get the rear sliding earlier?
body weight transfer?
IF (that's 'if') you're a rider who favors hanging off the back of the bike all the time, stop that. Don't be afraid to get some weight over your front end when cornering.

It would help to know what the bike/fork setup is too.