Guerrilla Gravity, badass frame manufacturer in Colorado
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Well, I discovered my gopro was set to 24 fps, so if anyone wants to watch that painful video, I'll upload it.
In other news, great bike. I discovered that the pike was in the middle setting for my first loop, so I won't judge that.
Took a bit to stop mixing up to dropper and shifter. First weekend with shimano and a dropper. So things got better after that,and the tires were way too drifty for me, wanted my sb8s back.
OK, onto the bike. My ride started with a healthy climb/hike a bike, betasso link for those in the boulder area. So, it felt a bit too long for my tastes while climbing, had both shocks in climb and the pike on low. I felt too stretched out, but my climbing was more limited by the tires giving out. I feel like I could have climbed a bit better with clips, but I'll try that another day.
On the trail, it railed. Pumping everything, turns great, quick techy climbs are smoothed out by the suspension. Just stand up and crank. Just monster trucks up rocks and roots beautifully.
Never noticed any pedal bob, no feed back, low bb was never an issue no pedal strikes, wasn't even pedaling carefully.
Jumps well, and handled my cases and crooked landings well. I did have one crash, zoned out for a second, got too close to the edge of the trail, grabbed too much front brake. Otb I went, but better than rolling down the hill. But no fault of the bike.
Had a little lower back pain from the length, but I probably could have fixed that by adjusting the seat on the rails. So only a minor issue, or I could go with a small, closer to the size I'm used to.
So, second lap with the pike full open, and a bit less air in the suspension, just ripped. Didn't think about the bike one bit, and honestly that was a great thing. It rolled along great, felt pretty effortless. Just smiles ear to ear, even long doubl track climbs, didn't notice the suspension, just sat and spun.
Now the fun part, going back down the link.
Swap the bike to Gravity mode, hit the dropper, let off the brakes and go. My lack of trust in the tires stopped me from really throwing it around, but still great.
So yeah, there's my review as a slow cat 2 downhiller and a casual trail rider. I'll be happy to answer questions if I missed anything.
In other news, great bike. I discovered that the pike was in the middle setting for my first loop, so I won't judge that.
Took a bit to stop mixing up to dropper and shifter. First weekend with shimano and a dropper. So things got better after that,and the tires were way too drifty for me, wanted my sb8s back.
OK, onto the bike. My ride started with a healthy climb/hike a bike, betasso link for those in the boulder area. So, it felt a bit too long for my tastes while climbing, had both shocks in climb and the pike on low. I felt too stretched out, but my climbing was more limited by the tires giving out. I feel like I could have climbed a bit better with clips, but I'll try that another day.
On the trail, it railed. Pumping everything, turns great, quick techy climbs are smoothed out by the suspension. Just stand up and crank. Just monster trucks up rocks and roots beautifully.
Never noticed any pedal bob, no feed back, low bb was never an issue no pedal strikes, wasn't even pedaling carefully.
Jumps well, and handled my cases and crooked landings well. I did have one crash, zoned out for a second, got too close to the edge of the trail, grabbed too much front brake. Otb I went, but better than rolling down the hill. But no fault of the bike.
Had a little lower back pain from the length, but I probably could have fixed that by adjusting the seat on the rails. So only a minor issue, or I could go with a small, closer to the size I'm used to.
So, second lap with the pike full open, and a bit less air in the suspension, just ripped. Didn't think about the bike one bit, and honestly that was a great thing. It rolled along great, felt pretty effortless. Just smiles ear to ear, even long doubl track climbs, didn't notice the suspension, just sat and spun.
Now the fun part, going back down the link.
Swap the bike to Gravity mode, hit the dropper, let off the brakes and go. My lack of trust in the tires stopped me from really throwing it around, but still great.
So yeah, there's my review as a slow cat 2 downhiller and a casual trail rider. I'll be happy to answer questions if I missed anything.
Ok, I'll bite. Great review, even tho it was based on actual riding and not bogus linkage graphs.
But I seriously have to ask - are you wishing for Kenda Small Block 8s? If so, those Knobby Nics must the worst tire since the Mobster. I can definitely see a small block 8 as a dj/strickly xc tire, but I'm (really) surprised to hear they're acceptable for anything else.
But again, great feedback.
But I seriously have to ask - are you wishing for Kenda Small Block 8s? If so, those Knobby Nics must the worst tire since the Mobster. I can definitely see a small block 8 as a dj/strickly xc tire, but I'm (really) surprised to hear they're acceptable for anything else.
But again, great feedback.
They're pretty much the only tire I've used on this loop, and they're perfect. They grip from edge to edge, and they're very predictable. The knobby nicks, they just sort of float around at times, they won't make any noise to let you know, but the bike will just push. If you steer by sliding they'll work great, but for hard dry Colorado dirt, I want my sb8's
Got my MT yesterday, Love the way it turned out looks-wise(was going for the gulf light blue/orange):
Initial impressions: Love the long front end, there are sections on the loop I rode last night that I could never get my weight/body in the right position(without fear of going OTB) on my old bike to really nail the turns, with the extra room to move around I could get my body right where I needed to. Mid-size wheels def. seem to carry speed much easier/better, wasn't as noticeable as I thought it was gonna be, but still getting everything setup to my liking. They do seem alittle bit sluggish climbing but again still gotta get the suspension setup properly before I can definitively say that(I think my sag is a bit off). Gotta get some more seat time, but loving it so far.
Initial impressions: Love the long front end, there are sections on the loop I rode last night that I could never get my weight/body in the right position(without fear of going OTB) on my old bike to really nail the turns, with the extra room to move around I could get my body right where I needed to. Mid-size wheels def. seem to carry speed much easier/better, wasn't as noticeable as I thought it was gonna be, but still getting everything setup to my liking. They do seem alittle bit sluggish climbing but again still gotta get the suspension setup properly before I can definitively say that(I think my sag is a bit off). Gotta get some more seat time, but loving it so far.
Is the megatrail the official bike of Ridemonkey? is there a special RM green edition?
make it so.
It can only be the official bike if it comes with a zip lock bag of random shimz and has the anti-skwatz curve laser etched on the seat tube.
Hush, you've said too much. That was our secret sauce for 2015!
Or, include a bag of anti-squats. I'm not sure what that would look like...
The megatrail just got the RM seal of approval. Maybe I should get one, too!
That's fine, but it better not be a fvcking raw one...
And in light of receiving the RM seal of approval, perhaps we need our own RM forum and special decoder rings/app?
Are any of you guys running a chainguide? I've got a narrow wide ring and a clutch derailleur, but I'm still losing the chain a bit when hammering through rough stuff. Pretty much just happens in the couple highest gears. Yes, my chain is the right length. I guess I could mess with the b-tension a bit but a guide seems like a more reliable idea.
Now that's out of the way, yes, I'm running a top guide along with a clutch derailleur, N/W and a proper chain. The only 2 options I can think of are a BB cup mounted top guide or a traditional ISCG guide if you also got the extra chain guide mount. I have the mount and use a E13 XCX top guide - and unsurprisingly, no drops...ever...as in none...zero.
Seat tube mounted variety won't work due to lower link pivot location and block of manly stiffness above the BB shell.
Running guideless keeps the chain on almost all of the time. But, yeah, on fast, rough trails, it can come off periodically. The MRP AMg works well; you can also get an E-mount top guide, any BB mount guide, or we have the bolt-on ISCG05 mounts (I forgot if you get one of those or not).
That is hilarious. And, yeah, I suppose that's what a bag of anti-squats would look like.Maybe include a nifty nabber and a KFC coupon booklet with every frame?
So clearly I'm confused about what an etype mount is, as I thought it was mounted to the seat tube like a front derailleur - in which case, it seems like the guide collar would be really high up and/or the link would interfere with the mounting.
It seems my 1% mental acuity is rearing its ugly head once again.
Preemptive "derp"
It seems my 1% mental acuity is rearing its ugly head once again.
Preemptive "derp"
Moar derp...
So what does it bolt into? If there are bolt holes in the frame, I'm going to punch myself in the ding dong. I swear I never saw them, altho perhaps the ISCG plate covered them up?
So what does it bolt into? If there are bolt holes in the frame, I'm going to punch myself in the ding dong. I swear I never saw them, altho perhaps the ISCG plate covered them up?
Take video.
I expect video of a self-inflicted dong kick.
The E-mount holes are on the swingarm, just below the main pivot.
The E-mount holes are on the swingarm, just below the main pivot.
mtg, how would you feel about me drilling and tapping a third hole below the rear one to get the clocking right for the XCX e-type? I'd use the forward hole as is, and a standoff to take up the offset between the mounting faces.
I haven't actually taken the stay off to see what's going on in there yet...
I haven't actually taken the stay off to see what's going on in there yet...
Need a lot moar yoga to even consider a foot to dong contact (or a really violent car wreck), so I guess a auto-falcon punch will have to suffice.I expect video of a self-inflicted dong kick.
The E-mount holes are on the swingarm, just below the main pivot.
I'm now going to go backfill the bolt holes on my bike with bondo and pretend they never existed. Will say the ISCG plate is a fap worthy piece of machining, so I still have that to get me through (albeit, it may be awhile after ceremonial dong pugilism).
The Megatrail uses a "Type 2" mount, which has 2 5mm bolts, spaced 22.1mm apart (IIRC), with the mounting faces in plane.
The eThirteen XCX is a "Type 3" mount, which has 2 5mm bolts, with the same spacing as the Type 2, but clocked differently, and with a 5mm offset between the mounting faces.
I have no idea what happened to "Type 1"
Re: sag. We recommend 14mm sag in the rear, and 15% up front as a baseline. Those numbers come from measuring it seated in climbing position, bars naturally weighted. The base tune on the DB Inline is centered around a 175lb rider, FYI. For every 25lbs or so over that, add 2-4 clicks on the low speed adjusters and 1/2 turn or so on the high speed.Got my MT yesterday, Love the way it turned out looks-wise(was going for the gulf light blue/orange):
Initial impressions: Love the long front end, there are sections on the loop I rode last night that I could never get my weight/body in the right position(without fear of going OTB) on my old bike to really nail the turns, with the extra room to move around I could get my body right where I needed to. Mid-size wheels def. seem to carry speed much easier/better, wasn't as noticeable as I thought it was gonna be, but still getting everything setup to my liking. They do seem alittle bit sluggish climbing but again still gotta get the suspension setup properly before I can definitively say that(I think my sag is a bit off). Gotta get some more seat time, but loving it so far.
@captainspauldin
Im running the recommended 14mm sag in the rear and around 18% up front with the pike but I measure it while standing so it's prob closer to 15 while seated.. Im about 190ish lbs and all I did was slow down the lowspeed rebound 3clicks and its spot on..
Definitely check your sag everyride..A few mm/psi off is very noticeable for me at least and I get about 5psi variance depending on temperature
Definitely agree with the point about checking sag/psi. Also, FWIW, I've been running the CC base tune settings and really like it so far -
HSC [High Speed Compression]
2 (actually, just started cranked it in to 2.5 to get a scoosh more bottom out resistance)
LSC [Low Speed Compression]
13
HSR [High Speed Rebound]
2
LSR [Low Speed Rebound]
15
By far in away, the best riding bike I've ever slowly ridden on.
HSC [High Speed Compression]
2 (actually, just started cranked it in to 2.5 to get a scoosh more bottom out resistance)
LSC [Low Speed Compression]
13
HSR [High Speed Rebound]
2
LSR [Low Speed Rebound]
15
By far in away, the best riding bike I've ever slowly ridden on.
QFT Interesting to see it layed out this way, but these are EXACTLY the settings I've settled into (on a banshee spitfire). Of course it took me a good while of tinkering to get there. I guess the basic idea is that heavier riders = moar air pressures = need moar damping to control the stiffer air spring?
It's "far and away", ding dong. WTF could "far in away" possibly mean? I can't believe the water supply of over 1 million people depends on you....
It appears someone needs some "re-education" about proper patriot geography. As god fearing, self-righetous Americans, we refer to other places not ensconced in Freedom™ as "away". In formal, documents of science, it is customary to also include the distance (in miles of course) an away area is from America. Thusly, in the context of my sentence, I was simply saying the MT was superior compared to the bikes I've ridden in away lands like New Zealand (i.e. the rental GT hardtail of late '90s vintage I rode in Queenstown). If I didn't know better, it almost sounds like you're running a little low on Freedom™, but hopefully a couple cases of Bud Lite Lime and a trip to the firing range (with your daughter of course) will get you sorted out.It's "far and away", ding dong. WTF could "far in away" possibly mean? I can't believe the water supply of over 1 million people depends on you....
Yep, you're correct on the scaling of damping for weight. Moar weight = moar energy input into the suspension/higher spring rates, which in turn requires higher damping forces to maintain the same damping ratio/feel. That's also part of why pros run lower sag than us mere mortals: their energy input into the suspension is much higher.QFT Interesting to see it layed out this way, but these are EXACTLY the settings I've settled into (on a banshee spitfire). Of course it took me a good while of tinkering to get there. I guess the basic idea is that heavier riders = moar air pressures = need moar damping to control the stiffer air spring?
It's "far and away", ding dong. WTF could "far in away" possibly mean? I can't believe the water supply of over 1 million people depends on you....
As far as the measurement method, we use that because it is applicable and easily repeatable. As a side note, on DH bikes, we use the attack position, as seated in "climb position" on a DH bike would just be silly, and you can't get a measurable front sag number.
As a side note, on DH bikes, we use the attack position,
When I hold the saber in my mouth, does it matter which side the handle is on?
When I hold the saber in my mouth, does it matter which side the handle is on?