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Getting a RF Cinch crank to STFU

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,006
Seattle
I've got a SixC crank on my Megatroll, and can't get it to stay quiet. The creaking seems to be at the spindle/arm interface. Taking everything apart and cleaning/greasing fixes it for maybe half a ride, but the noise comes back almost immediately. The fixing bolts aren't loosening appreciably (confirmed with a torque wrench). Any ideas?

I would also accept someone more local than myself breaking into @kidwoo 's house and leaving him an upper decker in lieu of an actual suggestion on fixing the issue, since he sold me the cranks. :D
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
Saint.

Or any Shimano/FSA crankset with twin pinchbolts, because every other system is retarded. I'd visit kidwoo but I'm not local unfortunately. Am happy to contribute to a fund for someone to do that though.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,006
Seattle
I know, I know. I've probably had 15 pairs of Shimano pinch bolt cranks over the years and they've all been flawless. Except for the one Saint arm that I bent, but that was my fault. I wanted teh carbonz and was pissed off at Shimano for their bullshit new chainring bolt pattern on the XTRs. If I can't get these to quiet down I'll sell them and go back to Shimano though.
 

lobsterCT

Monkey
Jun 23, 2015
278
414
I've got a SixC crank on my Megatroll, and can't get it to stay quiet. The creaking seems to be at the spindle/arm interface. Taking everything apart and cleaning/greasing fixes it for maybe half a ride, but the noise comes back almost immediately. The fixing bolts aren't loosening appreciably (confirmed with a torque wrench). Any ideas?

I would also accept someone more local than myself breaking into @kidwoo 's house and leaving him an upper decker in lieu of an actual suggestion on fixing the issue, since he sold me the cranks. :D
Are you sure it isn't the BB? Before ordering my SixC cranks I read scary, deplorable things about the cinch BB from Raceface on the interwebs. I went with real world cycling's bb with stainless steel bearings instead. Installed with marine grease for boat trailer bearings on the bb threads and chainring interface. Nary a peep or groan.
 

RoboDonkey713

Monkey
Feb 24, 2011
678
462
Maine
Have you checked the chainring interface? I have been on a Cinch Next SL for the last year and when it was new the lock ring needed to be tightened. I pulled it apart, greased it lightly, made it tight like a tiger and she was quiet.
 

Carraig042

me 1st
Apr 5, 2011
732
353
East Tennessee
I have the Turbine Cinch cranks with their bottom bracket and mine has been silent since I bought them. If PF BB make sure they have not worked out any.

-Brett
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,006
Seattle
Are you sure it isn't the BB? Before ordering my SixC cranks I read scary, deplorable things about the cinch BB from Raceface on the interwebs. I went with real world cycling's bb with stainless steel bearings instead. Installed with marine grease for boat trailer bearings on the bb threads and chainring interface. Nary a peep or groan.
Yes. I can regrease the spindle interface and get it to be quiet (albeit very temporarily) without touching the BB.
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
Have you checked the chainring interface? I have been on a Cinch Next SL for the last year and when it was new the lock ring needed to be tightened. I pulled it apart, greased it lightly, made it tight like a tiger and she was quiet.

^This

I bought the right size for my dh bike and brand new they were doing the same thing. That fixed it.

Can't deck me son, I never even rode the damn things. I'll shoot you the address of the guy who did though. Actually I'm closer. I got your back.
 

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,017
1,719
Northern California
The pinch bolt fell out of my Turbines on the trail and I had to call Race Face to get a replacement. When I talked to tech support they mentioned that they would be sending out a new plastic tensioning ring with it that would solve the creaking issue. I never had a creaking problem, but it sounds like lots of people have and moving to a plastic ring is their solution. She also mentioned that you need to be careful with the torque when screwing the pinch bolt into the new plastic ring as it was possible to strip the plastic (go figure).
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,006
Seattle
Have you checked the chainring interface? I have been on a Cinch Next SL for the last year and when it was new the lock ring needed to be tightened. I pulled it apart, greased it lightly, made it tight like a tiger and she was quiet.
Yes. That didn't help.

The pinch bolt fell out of my Turbines on the trail and I had to call Race Face to get a replacement. When I talked to tech support they mentioned that they would be sending out a new plastic tensioning ring with it that would solve the creaking issue. I never had a creaking problem, but it sounds like lots of people have and moving to a plastic ring is their solution. She also mentioned that you need to be careful with the torque when screwing the pinch bolt into the new plastic ring as it was possible to strip the plastic (go figure).
You mean the ring with the pinch bolt that you use to take up the extra space on the spindle after tightening everything else down? Good to know, I've got the aluminum one.
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
The ones I have on my dh bike have the plastic tensioner and still creaked.

So in incredibly informative news: creaks can come from different places.

I'll be setting up a paypal donation box for you to thank me. That kind of information doesn't just fall off a truck.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,006
Seattle
I've proactively gotten in front of the creaking problem before it happens. Replaced with Zees.
Yeah, but those are heavier. Granted, the SixC are probably slowing down more because they make me not want to pedal, but at least my bike looks cool.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,505
In hell. Welcome!
No creaks from my Turbine Cinch crank but I proactively removed chainring, applied anti-seize and tightened the lockring to spec. I agree with the forum that the pinch bolt on the preload nut sucks.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,006
Seattle
So I got the plastic preload ring from RF. Took everything apart, greased the fvck out of every contact surface, and reassembled. Still creaks. :rant:
 

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,017
1,719
Northern California
So I got the plastic preload ring from RF. Took everything apart, greased the fvck out of every contact surface, and reassembled. Still creaks. :rant:
At least you got yours. They said they were sending one to me over a month ago as the pinch bolt on my aluminum one fell out on the trail. Two messages left over the past week with no returned calls.
 

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,017
1,719
Northern California
* This reminded me to call them again. Got a person this time, they had no record of sending me a replacement. Interestingly, they once again said you need to be really delicate with the new plastic collar and bolt as the plastic strips out easily.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,006
Seattle
Hard to decide if getting something useless is really an improvement or not. :D
 

wood booger

Monkey
Jul 16, 2008
668
72
the land of cheap beer
So I got the plastic preload ring from RF. Took everything apart, greased the fvck out of every contact surface, and reassembled. Still creaks. :rant:
Hmm, have you checked the non-drive side? You can pull both crank arms off the spindle.

Might be worth it to pull the other arm off and grease that interface and then re-assemble and torque to spec. Maybe even flip the spindle around just for shits and giggles.

You "need" a 16mm allen to get the non-drive arm off, but a 5/8" will work in a pinch.
Get a bolt with a nice 5/8" hex head at the hardware store, put it vertical in a vice with the head sticking up and tighten the crap out of it. Use this to remove the non-drive bolt from the spindle. Or just use a 16mm allen!

I have been running SixC's since last summer and they are dead silent.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,006
Seattle
Hmm, have you checked the non-drive side? You can pull both crank arms off the spindle.

Might be worth it to pull the other arm off and grease that interface and then re-assemble and torque to spec. Maybe even flip the spindle around just for shits and giggles.

You "need" a 16mm allen to get the non-drive arm off, but a 5/8" will work in a pinch.
Get a bolt with a nice 5/8" hex head at the hardware store, put it vertical in a vice with the head sticking up and tighten the crap out of it. Use this to remove the non-drive bolt from the spindle. Or just use a 16mm allen!

I have been running SixC's since last summer and they are dead silent.
When I said I took everything apart, I meant everything.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,006
Seattle
The 170s I got to replace those creaked like a beyotch my first ride. I took a rubber mallet and ever so gently tapped the drive side a few times to snug it up, then tightened the ring some more. That worked.
I did that too, but I'll try to get the preload a little tigher.
 

mykel

closer to Periwinkle
Apr 19, 2013
5,105
3,820
sw ontario canada
3rd year on SixC on teh big bike.
Not even a dirty whisper out of them in all this time

Not a lot of help, - yea I know I suck. :busted:
 

wydopen

Turbo Monkey
Jan 16, 2005
1,229
60
805
I have to take my next sl's apart every couple months and clean/grease them..its usually the direct mount chainring that's creaking