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e13 drs or srs?

BEAUster

Chimp
Sep 21, 2003
60
0
Boston, MA
(srs=single ring, drs=dual ring)

i am stuck between an e13 drs and srs... i have only 1 bike which does trailriding, freeriding, and downhill. i would by the drs if i did all but downhill. but since i don downhill on this bike i am worried a drs will slip up. anybody know how they hold up on downhill? also right now i am pedalling a 36 tooth ring, so im thinking about a srs with a 32 tooth for trailriding
 

Silver

find me a tampon
Jul 20, 2002
10,840
1
Orange County, CA
BEAUster said:
(srs=single ring, drs=dual ring)

i am stuck between an e13 drs and srs... i have only 1 bike which does trailriding, freeriding, and downhill. i would by the drs if i did all but downhill. but since i don downhill on this bike i am worried a drs will slip up. anybody know how they hold up on downhill? also right now i am pedalling a 36 tooth ring, so im thinking about a srs with a 32 tooth for trailriding
I've had a DRS on my Bullit for 6 months or so, no problems at all. If you've got any sustained uphill, a small ring is nice to have for climbing...
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,698
1,749
chez moi
The DRS itself won't drop your chain or get fouled up if it's set up properly. I've had 3 on different bikes, all ridden poorly and crashed often on all sorts of DH stuff, and never had a problem. However, you still have a front mech to deal with, guide or not...which can be a hassle, especially on some bikes (short chainstays and big travel can make for some interference between tire/frame/der. cage).

If you don't have a problem keeping a front derailleur in tune (and let's face it, you shouldn't, really) the DRS is the ticket. I put an SRS on my hardtail, though, with a 34/11-34 combo, and it's good. Still not my favorite for technical climbing, though...I can spin up any fireroad with it, but when it gets rocky and tough, well, I wish I could gear down some.

Edit: This whole post basically says, "Chain retention shouldn't be the decision point between the two. They are both great. The decision point should be whether or not you want a granny ring."
 

BEAUster

Chimp
Sep 21, 2003
60
0
Boston, MA
Silver said:
I've had a DRS on my Bullit for 6 months or so, no problems at all. If you've got any sustained uphill, a small ring is nice to have for climbing...
but for downhill? any slips?

also, suppose i had an srs, what would be a good gar setup to make it go uphill easier
 

BEAUster

Chimp
Sep 21, 2003
60
0
Boston, MA
MikeD said:
The DRS itself won't drop your chain or get fouled up if it's set up properly. I've had 3 on different bikes, all ridden poorly and crashed often on all sorts of DH stuff, and never had a problem. However, you still have a front mech to deal with, guide or not...which can be a hassle, especially on some bikes (short chainstays and big travel can make for some interference between tire/frame/der. cage).

If you don't have a problem keeping a front derailleur in tune (and let's face it, you shouldn't, really) the DRS is the ticket. I put an SRS on my hardtail, though, with a 34/11-34 combo, and it's good. Still not my favorite for technical climbing, though...I can spin up any fireroad with it, but when it gets rocky and tough, well, I wish I could gear down some.

Edit: This whole post basically says, "Chain retention shouldn't be the decision point between the two. They are both great. The decision point should be whether or not you want a granny ring."
so, is 34-34 easy to spin?
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,698
1,749
chez moi
Read what you just quoted.

It's a 1:1 ratio. Put your current bike in a 1:1 ratio and see how it feels. (Not possible if you don't have a granny gear now, but I'm assuming you do, since you're considering a DRS.)

The neoclassic DRS combo is a 36/22 and 11-32. Some people like a 38/24 for the 110 bolt pattern.

MD
 

Rik

Turbo Monkey
Nov 6, 2001
1,085
1
Sydney, Australia
How strong do you climb? I ride a 28/38 double right now (as I have dramas getting a chainguide to fit), but will be on either a single 36 or 38 for my next bike. I've found by the time I run out of gears on a single 36, I'd be better off walking the bike anyway.
 

zane

Turbo Monkey
Mar 29, 2004
1,036
1
Vancouver, WA
Rik said:
How strong do you climb? I ride a 28/38 double right now (as I have dramas getting a chainguide to fit), but will be on either a single 36 or 38 for my next bike. I've found by the time I run out of gears on a single 36, I'd be better off walking the bike anyway.
That's what I found out too, by the time I switched into my granny gear and started pedalling everyone else was already pushing their bikes up the hill. I now have a single 32 with a SRS, and can still pedal uphill as long as it doesn't get steep. Overall, perfect for our kind of trail riding (post canyon, OR).
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,698
1,749
chez moi
That's my favorite. People mocking the granny gear, telling you to "just suck it up and get stronger," then proceeding to push their bikes up the slightest grade.
 

Repack

Turbo Monkey
Nov 29, 2001
1,889
0
Boston Area
I posted a similar post a few months ago. The concensus was almost unanimous for the DRS. I haven't had a chance to install it, but dw said that his riders have used it on the Plattekill 4X coursem which is rougher than a lot of DH courses. They are suppossed to be sweet.
 

zane

Turbo Monkey
Mar 29, 2004
1,036
1
Vancouver, WA
Evil guides are pretty easy to install, and as people have said before they're not very picky about setup. I've seen evil guides completely out-of-whack and they still run smooth. Let us know how the install goes, I might consider a DRS for my next hardtail.

Edit- It only took me like an hour to install and set up my SRS, and it was my first chainguide install ever. Good luck!
 

cali4niabiker

Monkey
Jun 29, 2004
296
0
ATLANTA, GA
I use a SRS for my 43 # '01 Dare with a 34 t setup and clipless pedals - I never had any chain suck/slippage for as long as I can remember... no wait, it was before I installed the SRS. I can climb big hills without a problem, but I am slow as a slug. :o: So what if the light XC weenies pass by me. When it comes to pointing downhill, get a blowhorn and get the XC geeks outta the way! :evil:
 

BEAUster

Chimp
Sep 21, 2003
60
0
Boston, MA
zane said:
Evil guides are pretty easy to install, and as people have said before they're not very picky about setup. I've seen evil guides completely out-of-whack and they still run smooth. Let us know how the install goes, I might consider a DRS for my next hardtail.

Edit- It only took me like an hour to install and set up my SRS, and it was my first chainguide install ever. Good luck!
the installation was unbelievably easy... at first, it seemed overwhelming when i looking at the direction and parts. but once i had everything out and by bike in front of me, it was a snap. i'd say it took an hour because i have no chain guide experience. i didn't even use half the parts they include...

i'll post some pics tomorrow
 
Jun 18, 2004
945
0
I run a DRS on a Banshee Sceam... I run a dh(flat) 40th and a flat 26th... my only problems are with (running) ISIS cranks I had to buy an odd sized bb... fsa 123x73... but the main problem is that like the other guy said you have to keep up on tuning the front derailer...
Another thing to PAY ATTENTION TO is (at least on a 4 bar linkage) to have enough space, so that the chain won't get pinched, between the DRS roller and the lower chainstay/linkage... I pinched mine one time on a test ride, after some wrenching, around the neighbor hood and if I wasn't walking my bike when I discovered it, I would have caused all sorts of damage.... hubs, cassette, derailer, der. hanger...
 

BEAUster

Chimp
Sep 21, 2003
60
0
Boston, MA
Str8OutaBallard said:
I run a DRS on a Banshee Sceam... I run a dh(flat) 40th and a flat 26th... my only problems are with (running) ISIS cranks I had to buy an odd sized bb... fsa 123x73... but the main problem is that like the other guy said you have to keep up on tuning the front derailer...
Another thing to PAY ATTENTION TO is (at least on a 4 bar linkage) to have enough space, so that the chain won't get pinched, between the DRS roller and the lower chainstay/linkage... I pinched mine one time on a test ride, after some wrenching, around the neighbor hood and if I wasn't walking my bike when I discovered it, I would have caused all sorts of damage.... hubs, cassette, derailer, der. hanger...
i got a 40 tooth bash gaurd just for that reason, so the roller isn't so vulnerable...
 

zane

Turbo Monkey
Mar 29, 2004
1,036
1
Vancouver, WA
As soon as one of the evil guys visits this post they'll say this: Rotate the guide forward (lower roller UP)!
You still have some room to rotate it, and on every setup evil says to rotate the roller up as high as possible so you don't hit it.

Looks awesome though!
 

BEAUster

Chimp
Sep 21, 2003
60
0
Boston, MA
zane said:
As soon as one of the evil guys visits this post they'll say this: Rotate the guide forward (lower roller UP)!
You still have some room to rotate it, and on every setup evil says to rotate the roller up as high as possible so you don't hit it.

Looks awesome though!
more tension too... i'll do that this week