[Prime320]

Here is some history behind me... I am 30 years old and way out of shape. I have rode BMX for 23 years now. I still ride street, park, and dirt to this day. I am also getting competitive with woods racing dirtbikes the last 2 years. I am a 100 pounds heavier than I was in highschool so a burly bike is a must. I want to get in shape and have fun doing it.

I want a beefy bike, and beefy components. I don't care about weight. I do care about cost, and strength. I am most likely going to be buying older used stuff off of the forums to build up my bike. I honestly want a Hood Mussel since I know no one has ever broke one. I think that very well may be the bike for me. If I get a mussel I will run some of my profile BMX cranks I have laying around. I don't know anything about 24-26" rims. I want something bombproof. I pretty much want to be on a pedal dirtbike with no motor. Perhaps a monster t fork? Maybe a dorado fork set up, or even a stratos? What is the stiffest spring I can get in a front end? I want to make sure I can get the bike well sprung for my almost 300lbs I am sitting at these days. What do you guys suggest I do as far as frame and parts?

I will be doing a lot of urban gaps and drops on the bike. I'm not too scared to huck my self at stuff. I will also be spending a lot of time at highland MTB park once I have a complete DH bike. Any advice on anything is extremely welcome!!!!!

 

[ianjenn]

1. 26" RIMS the 823 in 36 spoke configuration should work, or the older Mavic 321 CD's...
2. Fox 40 will be stiffest (SO/SO reliability)
3. Go Renthal or Answer Pro Taper bars
4. Shimano Saint Cranks or Profile
5. Saint Brakes, Hope V2 Brakes

 

[DirtMcGirk]

As a "large mammal" or "a dude with a bit of an eating problem" (RIP Chris Farley) I know where you're coming from. I'm 240, was 275 a few months back. Here are my thoughts.

1. Marzocchi 888 with the "extra firm" springs. I've ridden the 40, it didn't end well for anyone.
2. Biggest rear spring I've seen is 600# that I can order easily. I suspect someone might go to 700#, which might be closer to where you need to be, but I've never seen it personally. Using this spring rate calculator from Fox with some generic inputs it told me you need 650#.
3. I've ridden an Azonic Eliminator, a Demo 9, a Morewood, a Yeti 303DH and now a Transition TR450. Out of the lot, I did mess up the Azonic and the Morewood. Not meant for our type of people.
4. STAY AWAY FROM CARBON FIBER!! Yes, a lot of people will swear by how great it is. Great if you're 165# and ride with a lot of finesse. Parts like that aren't meant for us.

If you need any more advice on being large, in charge, a BBM and riding a bike, drop me a PM.

 

[WBC]

As a "large mammal" or "a dude with a bit of an eating problem" (RIP Chris Farley) I know where you're coming from. I'm 240, was 275 a few months back. Here are my thoughts.

1. Marzocchi 888 with the "extra firm" springs. I've ridden the 40, it didn't end well

If you need any more advice on being large, in charge, a BBM and riding a bike, drop me a PM.

well my weight has varied between 220 and 265 for the past 11 years of riding DH, but I'm only 5'9"and extremely dense, and I feel like I can give it pretty hard every once in awhile.

Anyway, this new craze of super low leverage bikes (Wilson, makulu) is fantastic for heavier riders because you finally don't need a shock revalve. A lot of those east coast Huck bikes, aside from having way outdated geometry, often are not as durable as mainstream aluminum bikes. The Huck bikes are just outnumbered 10,000:1, so they're much less likely to fail based on numbers alone.

Finally, I have ridden the 40 for most of this(08 and'10) time with the orange spring, and for awhile with the red spring. I also upped the oil weight from 10wt to 15wt in the cartridge. The spring weight and damping feel great for aggressive riding, but I blow out the bladder once every couple months.

Good luck, but just don't think that you need some obscure archaic bike because you're heavy. If Nathan Rennie can race world cups competitively on conventional components, you can go Huck stair gaps and plunk around the woods.

 

[jonKranked]

+100 internets to anyone that can find a stratos fork that's still in functioning condition.

 

[jonKranked]

also for fork options: if you want something built to last, get an old 888 or 40, and drop an avalanche cartridge in it.

 

[Prime320]

+100 internets to anyone that can find a stratos fork that's still in functioning condition.

There is a set in the classifieds right now in mint shape with an extra set of fork seals. Give me my internets!!!!

 

[Huck Banzai]

also for fork options: if you want something built to last, get an old 888 or 40, and drop an avalanche cartridge in it.

I dont know about absolutely solving rear shock @ ~300 (I was having trouble at 255), but you can do dual spring, dual damper (or single spring dual damper) with the new Avy carts. A pair of X Heavy's w/ dual dampers should hold up >400lbs rider.......................................

 

[jonKranked]

There is a set in the classifieds right now in mint shape with an extra set of fork seals. Give me my internets!!!!

granted via +rep

edit: i may have jumped the gun. that ad is 9 months old....

 

[norbar]

As a "large mammal" or "a dude with a bit of an eating problem" (RIP Chris Farley) I know where you're coming from. I'm 240, was 275 a few months back. Here are my thoughts.


4. STAY AWAY FROM CARBON FIBER!! Yes, a lot of people will swear by how great it is. Great if you're 165# and ride with a lot of finesse. Parts like that aren't meant for us.

I'd say that's BS. Superlight carbon fiber stuff yes but there are some really burly carbon parts/bikes right now. I have a friend at around 205lbs who rides like the biggest lunatic you can think off. I know he may not be as heavy as you but I also don't think you tend to do as much incredibly strange ideas on the bike that results in crashes, near creashes and so on. He rides a v10c though the gt fury carbon and that wall thickness I'd say it will be stronger than any other alu bike you can think off. New demo also comes to mind but the price is stupid.

Looking at what works for my heavy or very hackish friends:

As for the fork I'm with Jon - 05-07 888 + avalanche cardridge and you have bombproof.

For frame if you can find one I'd think Banshee Legend mk2 or a Nicolai Ion. Both bikes are known to be very strong. Haven't heard of one cracked yet.

Wheels I agree with Ian - 823s. 32 or 36T. It makes no differance. They are uber strong and if you kill them the only thing left is either killing yourself or Tag wheels.

Saint Cranks any gen. Saint brakes. Straitline guide.

 

[Prime320]

granted via +rep

edit: i may have jumped the gun. that ad is 9 months old....

I am pretty sure he still has them. I thought I saw him reference someone to his ad the other day.

 

[gnarbar]

3. I've ridden an Azonic Eliminator, a Demo 9, a Morewood, a Yeti 303DH and now a Transition TR450. Out of the lot, I did mess up the Azonic and the Morewood. Not meant for our type of people.

This cat spent 60 days last season on a Makulu, at 220lbs and riding hard, the bike was well tested. No issues, no weakesses, nothing fell apart or broke even after hammering day after day of bike park lift assisted DH. A solid product for the man-beasts.

 

[TheMontashu]

1. 26" RIMS the 823 in 36 spoke configuration should work, or the older Mavic 321 CD's...
2. Fox 40 will be stiffest (SO/SO reliability)
3. Go Renthal or Answer Pro Taper bars
4. Shimano Saint Cranks or Profile
5. Saint Brakes, Hope V2 Brakes

if my 150LB ass could blow up my 40 every 3 or 4 months, I would say a big dude is a no no

The new 729s are the ols 321s

 

[ianjenn]

if my 150LB ass could blow up my 40 every 3 or 4 months, I would say a big dude is a no no

The new 729s are the ols 321s

Yeah they tear like cans up here. Thats a shear stiffness suggestion BTW!

 

[4130biker]

One of the demo 9s in stock trim with a cartridge for the fork, burlier springs and a set of cranks could be the ticket. I see the completes floating around once and a while.

Swinger shocks specified on those models even ran slightly lower spring rates because of the damping, which could give you enough room for proper sag setup with available spring rates.

 

[yd35]

Why not buy something new but in the budget price range, like the Specialized Status ($2450 MSRP)? It doesn't look like the burliest bike in the world, but a new Status might be a safer bet than a used frame and parts with lots of abusive miles on them.

 

[norbar]

Why not buy something new but in the budget price range, like the Specialized Status ($2450 MSRP)? It doesn't look like the burliest bike in the world, but a new Status might be a safer bet than a used frame and parts with lots of abusive miles on them.

Because low end builds have many not so burly parts while you can buy a barely ridden used bike with super burly parts for the same price. If you know what to look for you can get a really great condition bike.

 

[yd35]

Because low end builds have many not so burly parts while you can buy a barely ridden used bike with super burly parts for the same price. If you know what to look for you can get a really great condition bike.

Dunno, if you have some shop hookups I bet you could get that Status at a pretty sweet price point. You're right though, you can get good deals in the $2000 used range with just a quick search on Pinkbike.

 

[norbar]

Just look for rich kids who don't really ride and you can get close to new stuff Hell I got 2 older 823s (the lighter ones) for 60$. They were unused. Someone bought them and decided he didn't like them because they were heavy. He even added a set of am tires.

 

[BigBoi]

My Driver 8 is pretty indestructible. I'm 6'7", 240lbs so it's a bit short but it can handle my weight no problem.

I would also recommend going with 2.7 tires at a significantly higher tire pressure than the lil guys run.

My DT FR2350 wheels have proven themselves as well.

And go with a Renthal or maybe the new Havocs, I bent my Answer Pro Tapers.

 

[BigBoi]

I failed to mention, the Driver 8 is relatively new and cheap since they discontinued them.

 

[www.amazon.com]

I am happy with my shocker, not as big as you..#220 and also run ztrs flows because I like living on the edge (my wheel building skills are second to none)..Anyways the older Coves (I have a 2011 but also had a 2008) are pretty built up and can be had for....sortaa cheep if you like around a bit. Look for some old Mag 30's if you wanna be a bad ass though..granted they cracked around the eyelits sometimes.