Stay seated, and the nomad is "ok" in the granny. Standup, and its a slingshot with every stroke.
A DHer's trailbike journey, What do you run?
- Thread starter Jeremy R
- Start date
What about the ReignX? Any Granny Bob with it? I'm down to a couple frames and the ReignX and Nomad are toward the top of the list.
i have a reign (not the X) and it doesn't seem to have any bad problems in the granny gear but i do have a pretty round pedal stroke.
btw the reign that i have is and older model that is pretty much just a shorter version of the X
btw the reign that i have is and older model that is pretty much just a shorter version of the X
I just went from a Nomad to a Reign X.
I found the Nomad very appealing; from its geometry, to the vpp that I'm a huge fan of on my other two bikes, to its physical appearance. From the start I found the rear suspension to be very stiff. Small bump compliance wasn't to be found, which directly translated to chatter and poor tracking in turns. I tried a Monarch 4.1, DHX 5.0 Coil, and Vivid 5.1. None of the shocks or their tuning capability remedied my complaint. I even switched mainframes from a medium to a large in hopes that the longer wheelbase and top tube would fit me better and offer more stability - this also was a dead end. I wanted to like the bike and I tried everything possible, but when every ride I had on it in a year left me wanting alittle more, I decided enough was enough.
I choose the Reign X to replace it mainly for the suspension design. I am a firm supporter of vpp on my blur and v10, and instantly notice the difference when riding them, but something about it wasn't cutting it on the Nomad. Maestro is notorious for its activity and small bump compliance, so I went that route being my biggest complaint. I notice it does get hung up more in straight rough terrain, but its far more active and holds a turn so well that on every exit I instantly know I made the right decision. It still pedals on par with the Nomad, and despite a slightly shorter top tube, feels relatively close in geometry. After constantly adjusting shocks, buying replacements, and trying everything possible on my Nomad, its so much sweeter being able to have a gratifying ride and not be able to wait to have the same thing again as soon as possible.
Thanks for the suggestions Banshee Rider, What size reign X do you ride? I'm 6'1" and my xc bike is a L/19" and my DH bike is a M/L.
5'10 and I ride a medium with a thomson set-back seatpost. (there is a picture a few pages back)
Seated granny pedaling on the Reign X is fine - no extra movement I can feel. If you're standing though and you're running lower pressure in the Boost valve you'll get some extra monkey motion. For me the cut-off seems to be 110lbs (stock DHX 3.0).
My walkaway after testing both the Reign X and Nomad was that at high speed the Reign cornered better and was more stable. That's why I bought the Reign.
My walkaway after testing both the Reign X and Nomad was that at high speed the Reign cornered better and was more stable. That's why I bought the Reign.
seems as if a trailbike is more then the frame. I have been on this journey for two years as well and here is the latest incarnation:
Frame: Transition Bottlerocket, size large. Sure, its not the lightest out there but it can handle anything, truly versitile and rare. oh wait...
Fork: Rockshox lyric IS u-turn. having really liked my boxxer that I had in 06 i decided to go with rockshox again. In the lyric I've kept the same travel and adjustability I had with the talas, but now its oil/coil plush.
Shock: DHX 5.0. no brainer, most proven, most reliable, amazing ride and adjustability. done deal.
Brakes: Juicy 7. I have had these since fall 06 and they are still going strong. replaced the pad a couple months ago and they feel like new.
Cranks/retention: I kept the hones off of the prior build because they are everything a crankset should be. Strong, cheap, and not super heavy. I went with an 11-32 cassette this time (as opposed to a road cassette on the last one) and a 32 in the front so I can still make it up hills and not have to worry about dropping chains. The lg-1 helps out with that last bit.
Wheels: New transition revo 32's white on red. They look sic, will take a beating, and don't break the bank. who cares how much they weigh? build some muscle.
Tires: Nevegal 2.5 front, specialized enduro 2.4 rear. Best setup I've ever run for all around. I have some other tires I throw on for xc or resort riding, but these are run 95% of the time.
Mech: xt shadow with xt 8-speed shifter. Keep it simple, keep it cheap (seriously, look at the cost difference between 8 and 9 speed stuff), keep it good. the shadow is butta, highly recomend it.
Misc: Funn rippa stem, hussefelt dh bars, thompson elite post, specialized saddle, oury lock on grips, tranny bar ends, welgo mg-1 pedals
So my last build was also a bottlerocket and I had it sprung with air but it did not feel just right (mind you this wasn't crap, was running 08 talas and dhx air 5). However I did like having the adjustability both in travel and feel that air provided in that setup. With this in mind I set out to build the ultimate sensible, do-everything bike. I dare say I have succeeded.
Frame: Transition Bottlerocket, size large. Sure, its not the lightest out there but it can handle anything, truly versitile and rare. oh wait...
Fork: Rockshox lyric IS u-turn. having really liked my boxxer that I had in 06 i decided to go with rockshox again. In the lyric I've kept the same travel and adjustability I had with the talas, but now its oil/coil plush.
Shock: DHX 5.0. no brainer, most proven, most reliable, amazing ride and adjustability. done deal.
Brakes: Juicy 7. I have had these since fall 06 and they are still going strong. replaced the pad a couple months ago and they feel like new.
Cranks/retention: I kept the hones off of the prior build because they are everything a crankset should be. Strong, cheap, and not super heavy. I went with an 11-32 cassette this time (as opposed to a road cassette on the last one) and a 32 in the front so I can still make it up hills and not have to worry about dropping chains. The lg-1 helps out with that last bit.
Wheels: New transition revo 32's white on red. They look sic, will take a beating, and don't break the bank. who cares how much they weigh? build some muscle.
Tires: Nevegal 2.5 front, specialized enduro 2.4 rear. Best setup I've ever run for all around. I have some other tires I throw on for xc or resort riding, but these are run 95% of the time.
Mech: xt shadow with xt 8-speed shifter. Keep it simple, keep it cheap (seriously, look at the cost difference between 8 and 9 speed stuff), keep it good. the shadow is butta, highly recomend it.
Misc: Funn rippa stem, hussefelt dh bars, thompson elite post, specialized saddle, oury lock on grips, tranny bar ends, welgo mg-1 pedals
So my last build was also a bottlerocket and I had it sprung with air but it did not feel just right (mind you this wasn't crap, was running 08 talas and dhx air 5). However I did like having the adjustability both in travel and feel that air provided in that setup. With this in mind I set out to build the ultimate sensible, do-everything bike. I dare say I have succeeded.
I run a 45mm stem on my Enduro. The shorter the better.
How much does you Bottlerocket weigh?
50mm, I'm willing to deal with a sore lower back for the dh handling.
Seriously?????????? I run a longer stem on my DH bike (55mm) and am significantly shorter than you. I think you might find a better 'fit' with a bit more stem length (the pic you posted on your DH bike looks really uncomfortable/too small) but it is certainly your decision.
On a dedicated DJ or 4X or mini DH bike, I can see 50mm or so, but on a true trailbike (multi-hour rides, long granny-gear climbs, etc) something in the 70ish mm seems more appropriate/common.
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I had a 60mm stem on the Enduro I found by back hurt more and the handling sucked. At 45mm I've adapted and it feels great.
At 6'5" I know no matter what DH bike I buy it will be too small. I make every bike look small. My Devinci is one of the longest DH bikes around. Heck my XL Enduro is enormous too and I dwarf it. People my size are designed to play basketball and volleyball not ride bikes.
On my hardtail I look like a clown! It has a 65mm stem primarily because I haven't taken the time to buy a shorter one and I'm pretty sure my I'd cut the heck out of my knees from pedaling.
Devinci Wilson
Enduro
Lee McCormack's excellent thought on short stems
http://www.leelikesbikes.com/stems-how-short-is-too-short.html
Hey Don,
As someone who rides bikes with 50mm stems and motos with direct-mount handlebars, I’ll say this: The shorter, the better!
At least from a handling perspective. The shorter your stem, the more your bike will braaap the downhills. Many riders have trouble climbing with super-short stems, but you can learn to climb with a shortie. I defy any mortal to out-climb pro DHer Curtis Keene with his 50mm stem and flat pedals …
As long as you’re on a correct-length bike, a 40 or 50 mm stem will work fine. But it will be a huge change from your 110. Expect your bike to feel very different.
My advice: Buy or borrow a cheapo 50mm stem and see how it feels. Give it a fair chance. If it wigs you out, try a 70.
Remember to ride with your feet. Your hands are just there for control.
A quick rant
Unfortunately, mountain bikes came from road bikes. It’s taken us 20+ years to evolve from the road-based long/low position — remember the 150mm stems and flat bars? — to a shorter/higher/saner position. If mountain bikes had come from moto, we would have had short stems and riser bars the whole time.
Braaap!
— Lee
http://www.leelikesbikes.com/stems-how-short-is-too-short.html
Hey Don,
As someone who rides bikes with 50mm stems and motos with direct-mount handlebars, I’ll say this: The shorter, the better!
At least from a handling perspective. The shorter your stem, the more your bike will braaap the downhills. Many riders have trouble climbing with super-short stems, but you can learn to climb with a shortie. I defy any mortal to out-climb pro DHer Curtis Keene with his 50mm stem and flat pedals …
As long as you’re on a correct-length bike, a 40 or 50 mm stem will work fine. But it will be a huge change from your 110. Expect your bike to feel very different.
My advice: Buy or borrow a cheapo 50mm stem and see how it feels. Give it a fair chance. If it wigs you out, try a 70.
Remember to ride with your feet. Your hands are just there for control.
A quick rant
Unfortunately, mountain bikes came from road bikes. It’s taken us 20+ years to evolve from the road-based long/low position — remember the 150mm stems and flat bars? — to a shorter/higher/saner position. If mountain bikes had come from moto, we would have had short stems and riser bars the whole time.
Braaap!
— Lee
right on. You like it, and that is all that matters!
I was just thinking that maybe part of it is that your reach (shoulders to bars) is so long because you are so tall.....you have to reach much further down, making the reach longer and a shorter stem more appropriate at the bar height you can get.....
where as for me at 6' even, with the same exact front end set-up, my bars would be 3 inches or so closer (higher with respect to) to my shoulders...so a longer stem gives me horzontal reach distance that you get in vertical (shoulder to bar) drop....
Just sort of thinking out loud....
and to your other post, certainly agree, that the 100mm stems of the past are good-ridance. I wish more companies would offer smaller increments in the 50 - 70 or 80 range. The typical 20mm jumps are too much.
But I will say, however that for example on my DH rig, the additional 5mm or so of length (running a 55mm)makes a difference for me to be able to get weight on the front easier with current super slack headtubes.....
I was just thinking that maybe part of it is that your reach (shoulders to bars) is so long because you are so tall.....you have to reach much further down, making the reach longer and a shorter stem more appropriate at the bar height you can get.....
where as for me at 6' even, with the same exact front end set-up, my bars would be 3 inches or so closer (higher with respect to) to my shoulders...so a longer stem gives me horzontal reach distance that you get in vertical (shoulder to bar) drop....
Just sort of thinking out loud....
and to your other post, certainly agree, that the 100mm stems of the past are good-ridance. I wish more companies would offer smaller increments in the 50 - 70 or 80 range. The typical 20mm jumps are too much.
But I will say, however that for example on my DH rig, the additional 5mm or so of length (running a 55mm)makes a difference for me to be able to get weight on the front easier with current super slack headtubes.....
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roughly 40 and change, have not had it on a scale though.
One of these has not made it on here yet.....
omg i am in looovvvveeeeeeOne of these has not made it on here yet.....
Man oh man, that is a beauty!!One of these has not made it on here yet.....
The new Treks are hot for sure. I would love to try that DH frame matched with a Double Barrel. Good I don't can use all my bike riding time to do DH so I do not have to buy one of theses sweet trail bikes.
I have a Diamond Back Mission. Will get pics sometime, my camera is in for warranty. Anyone know if the Mission can fit a coil shock? I'd like one because the shock that came on it sucks and I prefer a coil over rather than replace it with an air shock. The bike rides really nice, pedals well and when I drop the seat it feels like a light weight and unplush DH bike (or a "Mini DH" bike, for those that like that term).
I'm with Lee. I'm 6'2", and I don't own a bike w/ a longer than 50mm stem. I've gone on long rides and raced a 24 hr on them. It's more about having a long enough top tube than stretching yourself over the front axle.
Ya i'm 6'7". I run a 50mm on both the trail bike and the DH bike. Oh well, someday I'll a custom frame :'(
My 09 Supreme Racing rigged for trail riding. 15,8kg as pictured.
From earlirer this summer, when I had it sat up for decents only
Love this bike for both dh and trails. Sooo much fun! It rails corners and is superfun to jump and throw around. It's a mini downhillbike for sure. It's trail abilities are very good as well!
From earlirer this summer, when I had it sat up for decents only
Love this bike for both dh and trails. Sooo much fun! It rails corners and is superfun to jump and throw around. It's a mini downhillbike for sure. It's trail abilities are very good as well!
Can't remember if I posted my bike in here??... to lazy to search..
Here is my Shova ST 2007 model...
The story of this bike has been long! I raced this bike in Slalom 2007 and rode XC with it all 2007 year for training.
I used it for all of 2008 as my trail bike and have already been through 4 drive trains on it! just changed it again today for the 4th time so ya I do a lot of riding on it.
note: the grips are completely worn out to the plastic... they feel good this way because they become really sticky!
Here is my Shova ST 2007 model...
The story of this bike has been long! I raced this bike in Slalom 2007 and rode XC with it all 2007 year for training.
I used it for all of 2008 as my trail bike and have already been through 4 drive trains on it! just changed it again today for the 4th time so ya I do a lot of riding on it.
note: the grips are completely worn out to the plastic... they feel good this way because they become really sticky!
FCLinder-
What did you wrap the chain and seatstays of your bike with?
What did you wrap the chain and seatstays of your bike with?
Started off with a thick rubber made electrical tape then raped it with normal ET. Works great!!
Cecil
ventana pantera
You raped your chainstays with ET? man, you're freaky.
Yah, I caugth that little Fer and had him skined just for my bike. Was really hoping he could help me fly!!!!
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I built this up in 2002 and it's pretty much been sitting in the closet since then (moved from a mountainous area to sea level flatland).
I built it for the purpose of being a trail bike that could handle abuse and a ****ty pilot, but I think it's kind of heavy? Could anyone recommend some obvious areas for weight saving upgrades?
Build is 2002 Cove Stiffee FR (pre-RAD tubing) frame, '02 Zoke Z1 FR QR20, FSA Pig DH headset, Ringle disc front hub w/Singletrack rim, LX disc rear hub w/ Rhyno Lite XL rim, Tioga DH 2.3 tires, Thomson stem/post, Easton EA50 bars, Avid mechanical discs (8" front/6" back), LX triple cranks/cassette/shifters/levers/rear der, XTR front der, some WTB saddle, ****ty bmx pedals.
I'm thinking new rear wheel and tires might be the best way to lose some lbs.
I built it for the purpose of being a trail bike that could handle abuse and a ****ty pilot, but I think it's kind of heavy? Could anyone recommend some obvious areas for weight saving upgrades?
Build is 2002 Cove Stiffee FR (pre-RAD tubing) frame, '02 Zoke Z1 FR QR20, FSA Pig DH headset, Ringle disc front hub w/Singletrack rim, LX disc rear hub w/ Rhyno Lite XL rim, Tioga DH 2.3 tires, Thomson stem/post, Easton EA50 bars, Avid mechanical discs (8" front/6" back), LX triple cranks/cassette/shifters/levers/rear der, XTR front der, some WTB saddle, ****ty bmx pedals.
I'm thinking new rear wheel and tires might be the best way to lose some lbs.
Does your wife know that your hittin' the crack pipe?
Yah, thats what I get for trying to type and replying using my I-Touch. I need to stick to a computer with spell check.......
I'm on the verge of grabbing a C-dale rush frame cheap to build a trailbike. I know with these type of bikes it is all about geometry. Personally, I'd prefer not to get a bike with over 5" of rear travel to reduce overlap with the big bike and based on the numbers I think I can build up a pretty capable little rig. 24.5" TT, 16.6" stays, 4.3" travel out back, 44.5" Wheelbase, and a 69 degree headangle and super low 12.6" BB based on a 4 inch fork (which should slacken and raise a little with a 5 inch fork I would use).
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
Finally starting to put this together. '03 XTS Moto frame. It won't be light but it will be economical, since most of the parts are leftovers from old builds. 7" up front and either 6.5 or 5 in the rear.
