[Jesus]

Well it looks like I got an '02 M1 heading my way.

Is there anything I need to know about it?

Any potential problems with them?

Also, anyone know if you can put a 24" rear on?

 

[GravityFreakTJ]

With the slacker head angle i'm sure it will lean up against the trees and be alot more stable so it won't fall over

 

[Jesus]

You don't want me to hobble over to your house and kick you in the a$$ do ya?

Back off biatch!

 

[Jesus]

Also note...

Me...Turbo Monkey

You...just plain ole Monkey

 

[GravityFreakTJ]

When you ride down the hills now does the wind whistle thru the hole in your chin?

 

[Jesus]

When you ride down the hills now does the wind whistle thru the hole in your chin?

No, but you can hear the wind slap off the big bruise on my forehead.

You know, the funny thing is that right after the accident, and after Booker got the 1st Aid kit out, the next thing he did was start laughing and said he's gonna call you.

Why? I've always been nice to the "little people".

 

[GravityFreakTJ]

I've always been nice to the "little people".

Everyone is "little people" compared to you " big guy"

 

[chillindrdude]

24" rear would be a bad idea. the M1 is already pretty slack...and BB is already pretty low.

 

[thaflyinfatman]

Yeah, steer well away from a 24" rear on an M1.... they're so slack and low, there is absolutely no need for it!

 

[kidwoo]

Well it looks like I got an '02 M1 heading my way.

Is there anything I need to know about it?

Any potential problems with them?

Also, anyone know if you can put a 24" rear on?

Keep an eye on the headtube welds. Do the same for the seatstays at the weld between the tubing and the machined dropout. They crack in both of these areas pretty consitently.

Other than that, nothing special outside of checking bearings etc. Enjoy your ride, those bikes feel killer.

 

[Booker]

Booker got the 1st Aid kit out, the next thing he did was start laughing and said he's gonna call you.

Why? I've always been nice to the "little people".

Bwwwaaahahahahaha. I was laughing before you even hit the ground. You should have seen your face................. And then the after glow of you in a lounge chair with your bloody legs propped up on the tailgate. A bag of ice on each knee and a can of coke on your chin.

As for the M1. Just practice moving over to the right side of the trail. That away when the big black Ironhorse of Death comes charging at you and i casually say "on your left" you will know wich way to go. :eviltongu

 

[Zark]

What brakes are you going to run? If you want to run 8" Hayes you'll need to machine the adapter to clear the weld near the brake tabs.

24" wheel..... Best left on 24" BMX cruisers. That bike is low and slack, no need to exaggerate that.

Kidwoo(d) is right check the headtube/downtube junction often and the the chainstays too. Shouldn't be too much a concern... unless you happen to buy one thats been "stategically lightened"

So did you get a small or a medium?

 

[jon-boy]

I just got myself one of these too...
I wouldn't run a 24" rear wheel personally, though you could move the shock mount to compensate for the head angle.

Why did you want to run the 24" wheel?

The bike is also way faster, corners very well and rips through bumpy sections and braking bumps with ease. Also I can even ride the beast up to the trails on the north shore! It's not often you'll see an M1 being ridden uphill. (It was pretty comfy too).

 

[Repack]

Why a 24" rear? I own an '02 M1 and would not recomend it. I have a Shiver on mine. How tall a fork are you using? I kept my M1 set on the low BB position until this year, mainly b/c of pere pressure. Everyone was always like "Low and slack or you'll suck!" Well, with the bike set up with the higher bb/steeeper head angle, the bike now handles like a dream. I do not notice that the bb now sits ~1/2 higher than it did. What I do notice is that the steering is 100% more precise. No more chasing the fornt wheel of muscling the bike through s-turns. I got the idea after reading that the ha of the M3 was being steepened over the M1.

 

[Spunger]

I agree, no 24" wheel.

I'd play around with the adjustments. The first adjustment will around the shock linkage area there has 2 positions. The upper mount makes the shock more progressive, lower one makes it a little less. You can play with it.

Also......the rear dropouts, have adjustments. You can move it closer to shorten the chainstay's (which makes it RAIL on turns) or lengthin it a big (back position) and it gives it a normal feel.

Also the shock has 3 mounting positions. Mine only works in 2 of them (5th element). I like the middle hole, the upper hole feels funny and doesn't ride right for me anyways. Play with it.

Shocks........I got a shiver too and have it just right. It's a pretty low front end feeling setup I have (which I like). I don't want it raked out in the front too badly. The forks that you can't adjust the lower crown like a super T gives you a limited adjustment, but the others you can play with until your heart and brain is tired.

Rear brake, that's it! I think shimano fits for sure, all other's need some help. Zark had to do some fancy grinding on my rear adapter to make it fit. I dunno if hayes sells a M1 adapter. The custom route might be the only way. Plus if memory serves me right you need some different bolts as the hayes ones go through to far. Like.........the bolts would touch the rotor as the clearence is tight.

There's also drop out adapters. You can use QR or 12mm TA axle. Axle is $50 from Intense. Make sure you have the different adapters. Lets you mix things up a bit.

The only thing I can think to check is the main pivot bolt. There's a set screw that is small, 2mm I think. Make sure it's snug so that bugger doesn't come loose. Most hardware for that bike is expensive

Linkage bolts were $8-10 EACH from LBS, even Intense said cost was $6.
Pivot Bolt is $25 I think
Bearing kit was $45 and that was for main pivot bearings and 6 of the others

Just make sure things are tight, blue loctite if necessary, and go ride!

 

[Jesus]

NO 24" anymore, I built up a 26" today.

Shock is an Avy w/ Ti spring, '01 Monster T, and Hope M4's with adaptors (any problems there?).

It just got back from Intense with new paint and bearings, but I will check all welds when it gets here.

You think the M4's will mount up okay?

 

[chillindrdude]

i want a pic when the rig is built!

 

[Repack]

NO 24" anymore, I built up a 26" today.

Shock is an Avy w/ Ti spring, '01 Monster T, and Hope M4's with adaptors (any problems there?).

It just got back from Intense with new paint and bearings, but I will check all welds when it gets here.

You think the M4's will mount up okay?

I am not a big fan of M1's + Monster T's. The bike doesn't need a fork that burly. The frame will stay so glued to the ground that you don't need a huge fork for rear-end shortcomings. It is also a very quick handling bike. But at the same time, if you are a big guy, why not. Also, I ride mine way over the front end. Seems to be where the bike is happiest handling-wise. A Shiver helps there, but I wouldn't mind something lighter, so long as it is not a Boxxer.
Good call on nixing the 24".

 

[Jesus]

Seeing as I don't have another fork, the Monster is the only way to go. I could drop a few pounds by going to a Slider Plus, but the way money is right now, it ain't gonna happen, and I love the Monster too much to sell it.

 

[Repack]

Seeing as I don't have another fork, the Monster is the only way to go. I could drop a few pounds by going to a Slider Plus, but the way money is right now, it ain't gonna happen, and I love the Monster too much to sell it.

Cool. I'm broke too. I want to try something else, but oh wait! I'm broke!
Have fun with it. Its a great bike.

 

[jon-boy]

I have M4's on my M1. I have a 185mm rear disc and the thing mounts up fine, just make sure that you cut down the bolts so that you don't have them foul on the disc.

Sounds like it'll be a sweet ride. Enjoy it.