Yeah, the only problem is that the head angle is so steep by the time you get down that far. I like the H/A best with a 5" fork (or rather a 4" fork and a 24" rear wheel, actually).
scrilla is $$$ in west-coast gang-bang slang in the us...;)
I would personally not recommend the Cane Creek; I used one all last season and the bearings felt "notchy" from the start, after a year they're kinda rough.
I would probably go with the FSA Orbit Extreme Pro; I like FSA's...
I just counted out the clicks on a FR hub a couple nights ago and it had 18 clicks. Noticeably slower engagement (obviously) than on my Hugi 98 or Abba hubs (36 points).
The OLD Hugi's (like the 98 I have) use 36 points. Very sweet hub. The new ones, starting with I believe the 240 and Onyx and including the FR hubs, all have 18. Still nice, but kinda slow.
It's -possible- that there's a leak in your system, but what you're describing sounds like you're just low on brake fluid. Did you fill it up so that the reservoir is overflowing - no air in the resi at all?
If it's not that, you could have either a leaky piston seal or a leaky connection...
What RITFreerider said. They're the black plastic/kevlar lines.
The good news is, the brakes will feel MUCH better with the new hoses, they swell much less under compression; it doesn't feel like you have a bad bleed all the time....
Well, no.
XT's use mineral oil; my understanding is that the way to get mineral oil out of pads is to boil them; baking doesn't do it.
Try that. If it doesn't work get new pads.
If the pads actually move to squeeze the rotor, and you don't get any braking power, that is because the...
You need the M-arch seals kit, those are the ones that fit in all (including pre-M-arch models) the forks.
If you got one with the lip on it, that was some pretty old stock they gave you, Marz. has been shipping the M-arch style for years now.
You can use the old dust seals in a pinch...
According to MBA's article on the 04 Kona line, the '04 Stab Primo uses a 12x165mm rear hub. Formula makes one of these, your other options are the Hugi FR and the Ringle Abbah; I'm not aware of any others off the top of my head.
The BB should be a 100mm shell, if you have a 165 rear hub you...
Well, given that Diabolus cranks are not out yet, and will likely not be released until "May" (which means mid-summer at BEST in the industry), I think you're asking an awful lot of Mr. Pentecost there. They need to actually test the cranks first to answer your question...
That actually sounds like it will do the trick. Marz's glue isn't the strongest stuff in the world, from what you describe, it should be essentially as good as Marz could do it.
Good luck! :thumb:
Atomlabs stuff is amazing - they charge SO much, and it's SO crappy. I wish I could get away with the crap they get away with.
edit - btw, the 24" rear is pretty cool for street riding, I almost never take the 24 off the back of my hardtail. It's a little stronger too.
For those of you who might remember - did Shimano ever make XTR M900 brake levers? As in, not connected to shifter pods that would have to be cut off if you wanted to run a SS setup and not have dumb shifters hangin around.
I know I could get some old Kooka Rachas or something but the bike...
It's usually a good idea to put at least a small one in there; the Shiver in particular has a lot of stuff going on under the crown. I HAVE to use one otherwise I get nasty contact (1.5 headset though).
Is this the Pig with the sealed bearings, or loose balls? Could it be that one/both of...
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