Given the new parts are the seal and the FH body, then these are the likely culprits. Install without the seal to see if it's the problem. If your hub is still a fixie without the seal, then the FH is the problem. Something is up with the bearing bore depth on the FH where the inside bearing is...
In every instance of seeing this issue, the spacer, or lack thereof, was the culprit. The FH body is bottoming out on the hub as you tighten your rear axle. It's possible the new FH has a slightly different spec and requires a wider spacer.
**Just realized it's a star ratchet model. I've seen...
Just going to leave this here.... :popcorn:
http://www.vitalmtb.com/photos/features/Pro-Bikes-Red-Bull-Rampage,10553/Graham-Agassizs-Kona-Supreme-Operator,110599/sspomer,2
FYI just noticed your long upper shock pin and bolt. Highly likely that bolt (and pin) will bend. You might want to spec a steel 8mm ID pin, and upper the spec on the bolt.
Agreed. I don't think it would work with any other brakes I run with longer levers: Magura MT5 and Guides come to mind. Shifters are outboard on those bikes.
I found that the shifter needs to be butted up against the brake lever in such a manner that the plastic housing can't flex out of the way if tightened properly. The brake lever is a Shimano so the orientation is lever outboard, shifter inboard and butted up against the lever clamp.
Bad design...
Couple of points:
- How do you fit the 29x2.5 DHF with 430mm chainstays? ISO compliant? "Enduro" bike so this is natural tire to be fitted.
- I hope the 85mm HT length is on the SM size only. Longer reaches require taller stack, slacker HA require longer HT to maintain taller stack, even on...
All the valley trails in Whistler are within rideable distance. From function to Emerald, you can pedal to access them all. I recommend you do some research on Trailforks for the layout of the trail systems so you can familiarize yourself with how to connect the dots.
1 suggestion that hits...
Standing or seated?
Effective (not true/actual) reach and stack: the horizontal and vertical positions that go from the center of the ends of your handlebar to the center of your BB. With those two numbers you can usually get your position dialed. You might have to do some fine tuning via 5mm...
You clearly don't understand how drivetrain capacity works, so I will post this link for you. It doesn't matter what size chainring you have at the front, since it's only one ring then the capacity is only affected by the cassette. The capacity of your supposed long cage SRAM derailleur is 43t...
Sounds like something is fishy.
My setup was 34 N/W front, with a 42 OneUp rear, and an X0 medium cage RD. No issues with too long of a chain in a bike that gets 20mm of chain growth throughout the range of travel.
I've dropped chains due to a worn chainring and undertensioned clutch (T2 RD...
I think you're mistaken on how the equalization process works. When you pressurize the positive air chamber, the air will stay there until you push down on the shock to equalize the negative air chamber. So initially, you might have put in 300psi, but once you sat down and equalized the two...
Looks good. Rate is a bit high off the top. Might be hard to stay at sag with reasonable pressures. With a Fox LV unit, I'm guessing body weight + 25% which is alot. Is this frame specifically designed around high volume air cans? If so, the starting PSI will drop, maybe to body weight +15%...
Got it. I was imagining a static BB height by having the rear axle in different positions depending on the wheel size.
Still not great to have a 10mm AC increase for the fork and 11-12 increased axle height from the wheels for the 27.5 models. The 10mm AC increase can be 3-4mm at the BB. If...
27.5 forks have a longer A-C so the geo will change. If you design for 27.5, then the 26" version will get a lower BB, a steeper HTA and STA. Reverse effect if you design around 26 and install 27.5 wheels and fork. Your design chooses to compromise between both so that either works ok, but not...
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